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chelle

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Everything posted by chelle

  1. great info - thanks all, I'm late for work but will post tonight... Our goal is to have the best brakes available, and the single nut holding the wheels on - that way for drives and shows we can stay with the knock off wires for a period correct look, but for track events we can go with something stronger with less rotating mass. The wires are heavy and an option that would allow us to quickly switch between wheel sets is what we would prefer.. otherwise we need to build a separate track car.. though that would be fun too lol Chelle
  2. We're using kinda thick as we are filing it to shape - .060"
  3. Geeze Mike, At that price it would be worth it to buy and part out other people's used race cars every time you need a part. .. We had a RUF 930Turbo in here for under $10k that needed some tlc and right now on ebay there's a GT3 Roller with centerlocks for $25k http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-911-930-964-996-GT3-Race-Car-Roller_W0QQitemZ330134244773QQcmdZViewItem but $5500 per rotor is more than the Enzo! Ferrari gets $16k for 4 rotors and pads I think was the price. My thought was that if I had a rotor hat and caliper bracket that allowed use of the OEM P-car stuff then any updates would be a simple matter of going to a Porsche supplier for bigger calipers/rotors for a 996/911/etc... and that would make any future updates (including things like scalloped or carbon rotors) MUCH easier to find. It's annoying as heck to call someone like HRP and say "I'm looking to spend $5000 on brakes for a 280z" and have them say, "we've got nothing" when I know darn well they have something that would bolt on if we only knew what equivalent modern part measured out the same. Chelle
  4. Dale - that the place you told me about? They told me on phone when I tried to order them.. kept meaning to e-mail you and tell you.. Chelle
  5. Sorry for the slow reply.. Zerrari GTO - we made covers and trim rings, just haven't installed them yet.. we're not done fine tuning the fit. We didn't want to attach them till they fit right - would cheapen the whole thing.. below are a couple pics of the lens almost fitting right (we made them in the oven! Kim made plaster forms and we just gravity formed them) and the roughed out, not completely filed aluminum trim. Trim around the headlights I don't know .... thinking they were cobra.. tag lights were probably the ones Alpha sold.. jm6 - welcome - car-part.com or ebay for door buttons... sorry.. our trim for the covers has a lot of work left to get looking right, but it will.. Chelle
  6. well I found the pic.. not the copy I saved.. one someone on this board took.. lol and it wasn't an RB26.... I was juss foggy.. there were a bunch of RB26 powered z's on the page I first saw this car on (this thread) http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121583 but looky the huge rotors and calipers.. in retrospect the thing may not actually have true centerlocks.. that may be a cover... and just be wishful thinking on my part because three cars at my friend's shop have them.. (Morris's cobra, a porsche GT3, and a 996) Chelle Pictures taken by user "280ZForce" Clean engine too
  7. Well I was a little foggy on the engine - but not on the center locks and huge porsche calipers... still looking for the pics I saved
  8. okay - it's this car.. the red (kinda looks orange) one
  9. lol, well there are aftermarket suppliers of the rotors for around $1k each. The thought is I could use the stock porsche rotors at first and the carbons could in the future bolt on. A ton of porsche racers are in my area. The car in question is red, pretty clean looking and at first glance you don't notice there are a ton of well done mods. It was at the Motorsport West Coast Zcar Nationals.. I believe it has an RB26... sorry for the slow followup - I can't get on the site at work and just got home. I'll hopefully find the detail pics in the next half hour or so.. looking now Chelle
  10. I can't find anything about this car. Does anyone know the owner/builder. I'm thinking if I can use the same hubs he's using then we can upgrade to carbon fiber rotors and loose more weight. Also it has the advantage of a lot more choices for calipers. I have only seen a couple pics online of the car, but never any more info. I know I saved some pics of it - will post them as soon as I find them Chelle
  11. Speedracer, I always have loved the way your rear tires fill out the opening, Ours need to come out about another inch to look that good .. Boy from Oz, The grill opening tapers on the inside, at the front edge it's 5.5" high in the middle and 23.75" wide About an inch and a quarter back it's just 5" tall and 23.1875" wide. I made the grill opening from .060" aluminum. BTW, I finally got around to uploading this stuff.. here's a few videos of the car running and moving around a parking lot. No burnouts or anything crazy, it's just to show how it sounds and prove it moves under it's own power Please right click and select "save as" because the webserver they are on isn't meant to serve video I know they are larger than they need to be but I'm a server admin, not a multimedia guru Chelle http://members.core.com/~blonnde/new/GTO183.MOV http://members.core.com/~blonnde/new/GTO184.MOV http://members.core.com/~blonnde/new/GTO185.MOV
  12. Sheesh - here in the US for V12 engines, the Jag is super cheap (but heavy), BMW is cheap (but depending how you proceed gets very pricey), Mercedes seems to hold value (complete engines go mostly over $5000) Next in value is probably Aston Martin, then Ferrari and Lambo. We almost never even see anything on the Japanese V12's, Occasionally I'll see a VW "W12" Another price consideration is if you want a manual trans. Most Ferrari an Lambo were manual, but almost all of the Lambos are for mid engine rear drive. Best option is Jag on cheaper end, Aston on pricey end for manual trans as the BMW Getrag is rare and pricey (retail $6000) Aston uses the much more common T56. To put the T56 on any of the others will require custom Bellhousing ($1000+) and custom Flywheel (another $1000) Mercedes didn't come with manual trans, and I doubt the VW or japanese ones do either One more factor to deal with is width. BMW fits, Aston tight but fits, Jag fits, the Japanese ones I don't know, the Early Ferrari (from 1960's) fits but cost $30,000 for even a parts engine, the late 60's through early 80's Ferrari and Lambo, the W12 and all the Mercedes V12's are too wide unless you go to a tube front end and do away with the stock suspension. Most of these will also likely require you to make a new front crossmember (not the Jag though). If you use an earlier engine with carbs you'll save a little money, if using EFI then you need either the original computer/s and a harness to wire it or the skill to make 2 Megasquirt systems or $3000-$6000 for engine computers. Hope this helps. Chelle
  13. Wow - beautiful car Mike, I don't get to spend a lot of time on the site looking at stuff so I tend to mostly stick to GTO replica discussion and of course the really unusual engined hybrids. Looks great though, and reminds me I need to spend more time on here Only chance I get is at home at night though Chelle
  14. that's not ours is a last generation firebird body that's destined to become a track car - we sometimes have a local racecar shop make bits and pieces for us (and he has a lift!!!) and he always has interesting cars there - everything from street rods to, well, about anything you could imagine... just to name a few.. salt flat car that goes like 300mph, over 1000hp top fuel harley drag bike, a Datsun 510 pro mod car with RB26DET, a Turbo Supra with a Lenco trans, 58 corvette with C5 suspension, funny cars, rail dragsters, race prepped Porsche turbo, aluminum body cobra replica, Corvette Grand Sport replica, lots of stuff with supercharged big block chevy's.. looking for a pic or two... large pic of the cobra here with the datsun in background: http://members.core.com/~sysadmin/personal/MORRIS0028.JPG large pic of the datsun, salt flat car, supra, and gto in this pic: http://members.core.com/~sysadmin/personal/IMAG0030.JPG
  15. Kewl I thought that's how ya meant it - an that's how I took it... but after thinking too much I started to worry that I mighta been coming across as a "attention wh....". And if I was being annoying with all the big pics then I wanted to make sure ya knew I just really love the car and that I hope others post pics and updates too I have posted lots of "in progress" pics and look forward to seeing everyone's pictures at whatever stage the cars are at That said here's a couple new pics of the interior. I think we're going to redo the back of the console different (it looks too squared off right now), but it's coming along The serial cables to connect the laptop to the computer and wideband controller come out the armrest area of the console and the pouch on the dash is really just a cover to hide the stereo. We haven't decided if the top is going to get covered or will be left bare aluminum yet.. and need to do a little more tucking of wiring as well as decide what to do about door panels. Two screws at the top of the switch plate release the top of the dash so we can access all the master cylinders, fuses, relays, etc.. Chelle
  16. ROTFL! um, no.... they all sound at same time for a nice euro sound
  17. Zerrari - I have to say I dunno on your question of bonding... though my preference after redoing old bonded panels and seeing what happens to unevenly bonded panels or ones that even a little oisture got to is to cover as much as possible with West System resin and fill and to eliminate every possible pocket that could allow moisture to seep in. Seriously I have seen some panels that appeared well bonded or had just the tiniest crack at the edge that when you removed the panel there was extensive corrosion. Considering how difficult it can be to get to all the areas that the rear tub might be covering I might try and bond an aluminum panel with mounting tabs to the rear body section along the taillight area or something along those lines so that air could move in there to let incidental moisture to dry out completely and the unibody could flex a little without creating cracks in the bonded area.. I'm probably not describing what I mean well.. sorry I'll try and think about this more when I'm more awake. You mentioned "GTO porn" I hope you mean that the way I took it as a the pics I posted being nice. I'm proud of what we built and hope posting more pics might inspire others to post more Boy from OZ, The inner fenders we used don't attach to the front clip. When we had the stock "Alpha1" clip on the car it had inner fenders that fit nicely just inside the wheel openings. After the nose was on the car, these were bolted to the holes that secure the stock inner fenders. Unfortunately those inner fenders didn't work with the modified nose, nor did the other inner fenders we bought from Scorpionz. Keep in mind though our nose is pretty extensively modified. Tom even tried to discourage me from using them but I bought them on the chance they might fit. What we ended up doing is making aluminum ones that bolt to the steel front framerails. They are essentially a 19" by about 65" sheet for each side. Ideally I'd like to use an english wheel and form inner fenders that would hug the contours of the inside of the nose better, but we just don't have the room for a wheel or the time to tackle that right now. Our inner fenders are not mounted in the pic of the car without the nose as they have to come off to lift off the nose. Chelle
  18. come on guys! let's see more of everyone's cars!! here's another of ours at Carlisle
  19. Chuck's blue car is beautiful BTW... honestly - Haley and I got to see it all weekend and it certainly deserved the attention it got. Tasteful mods and a well executed car overall. He and his brother Ed made great neighbors in the building! Here's another pic where you can see Chuck's car, and because I don't think I posted this anyplace.. a week before Carlisle - here's a pic from just a week before we left... we had to replace the waterpump and the easiest way to access everything and not damage paint was this.. Chelle
  20. Well thanks again all I tried to shoot some short video clips today - but the files are too big with the new camera.. I uploaded some high res pics from the car show in the Photo Gallery Hybridz section here: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=14877&cat=502 Chelle
  21. Our's is stretched- it does change a lot about the look, but it's still not the same proportions as an original, for that you'd need to also take out some length from the cabin, and add more to the front. Just make it how you want it - If you feel comfortable stretching the go for it - just make sure you make it strong enough to keep going straight. We have pics showing where we added the length to the front posted on this site. Chelle
  22. thanx! We've been driving it for 9 months or so - tho as soon as salt trucks came out it was off the road for winter. We didn't let little things like an unfinished dash/console stop us from driving it. Heck, driving it helped us decide how some things needed to be finished or redone. There's still lots of details to keep me busy. I should have gotten a lot done this weekend but I had to deal with some stuff at the office still, we are trying to get it all done for Carlisle If you ever get down by Chicago you are welcome to come see it, maybe it would help you figure out how you want to do some parts on yours. I meant to note - the radio hole in the console won't be visible - it gets a little pocket snapped in place to hide the radio when it's not being used or the car is parked. Also, the tape on the bottom of the instrument pod was just there holding my template in place. Chelle
  23. Glenn's right - - he did the Jag 12 and we did the BMW, with the BMW M70 V12 getting anything more than about 350 HP takes a lot of money. A LOT. It was worth doing for us, but even doing almost everything ourselves we spent a lot. It looks kewl and sounds great, but was a lot of work to get running how we wanted. Chelle
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