MazterDizazter
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Posts posted by MazterDizazter
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Just a small update: I got my downpipe in and bought an engine stand at Autozone so I could get the engine off the pallet and work with it more easily. Cost me just under $75, with a trip to Lowes to get bolts and washers to mount the engine. Now I'll be able to turn it upside down when I need to replace the oil pan. I'll be ordering a gasket kit shortly, and once I replace the major gaskets I can start putting everything together. The transmission should hopefully be ready in a week or two if everything's on time.
Also, I may be purchasing a Megasquirt kit which will further delay the time it'll take me to get the car finished, since I'll have to research and buy a new turbo and injectors, at the very least. I may choose to wait however since my budget is very limited to what I already listed, plus possibly new struts and springs, new Autometer gauges, and an aftermarket bucket seat. We'll see how that ends up.
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lol, is one more faded than the other? How do they look cleaned up?
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I also got some more cleaning done on the engine tonight. 26 years of grime is a PITA to remove! I'm not looking for car show-winning cleanliness, just clean enough to work with. It will get a major cleaning when I get it rebuilt, probably next year.
My shiny new polished block-off plates...if only the rest of the engine could be so shiny.
When I get a full gasket kit in, I'm going to take all the accessories off the front and give them a proper cleaning. It's just not working with everything assembled.
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I got some parts in from MSA today: BRE rear spoiler, clear headlight covers, Cusco oil catch can, and two polished block-off plates. I also got my Fidanza flywheel and Supra 295cc injectors in, and should be getting my downpipe and ported intake manifold in soon. Here's some pics:
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Do you guys know if they make the shafts for 2+2's?
They make custom shafts for everything, you just have to take proper measurements and give them the specs. I used the measurements 240hoke used for his Z32 tranny install just to get a price estimate, but I'll be re-measuring just to make sure.
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No dice, he didn't have any...
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You should just buy my complete MSA exhaust/header and be done with it
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That is an extremely clean car. Worth 10k definitely IMO, but not anything to OMG over. Too many non-stock parts for a "museum" car. Wheels, exhaust, carbs, steering wheel, mirrors, etc. I would kill to have my paint look that good though!
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I'm switching all the Datsun logos on my 240Z to Fairlady Z logos. I'm wondering what the glovebox lid and door sill plates look like on JDM Z's. Also, does anyone know where I might be able to find these parts? Thanks
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That makes a lot more sense. I need to check what year my engine is from. Would bypassing the external resistors work, if I have them?
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^^ My thoughts exactly ^^
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A cover for the driveshaft would actually be awesome, I think. If it were flat, it would help reduce drag under the chassis. One thing I can't stand about FR's is that there's so much junk under the car! I'm used to my MR2 having flat undertrays covering everything under the chassis.
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That is exactly what I wanted to hear. I proposed it to a couple friends and got nothing but criticism, so that makes me feel a lot better. The only big concern I have is whether or not my diff and axles are going to be able to take the abuse I plan on throwing at them (my goal is over 400hp, mild track duty, weekend fun, maybe auto-x, no drag launches or anything like that), and if I have to upgrade, if I'll have to change the mounting points of the rear end or something, thus compromising my uber-expensive driveshaft. I know the car has LSD, but I don't know which one because the previous owner didn't remember when I asked him.
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Hey guys,
I'm going to be swapping an L28ET into my '73 Z with a Z32 transmission. I am considering a carbon fiber driveshaft. It will cost approximately $800, as opposed to ~$300 for a steel (or aluminum?) unit that some people on here are running. The benefits, supposedly, are that it will reduce parasitic drag and aid in responsiveness, and is also safer because if it fails, it will shatter rather than bounce around and possibly enter the passenger area like an aluminum shaft could do (although I thought a driveshaft loop could prevent that from happening?). This is just what I've read; correct me if I'm wrong. My justification for buying one is that it costs about the same as a CF hood, but I'd rather reduce weight on the drivetrain first, and worry about the chassis second. I don't particularly care about the extra cost, as I am sparing no expense.
Thus, I am wondering if anyone here has run a composite driveshaft before (on a Z or something else) and can give me some feedback. Any help would be appreciated!
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Definitely leave it red. Battlescars are cool! My airdam is all chipped up and I like it that way!
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Can anyone answer me how to switch from low impedance to high impedance injectors? I asked in the fuel delivery forum but got no answers and it's driving me nuts! I want to use 295cc Supra injectors because they'd only be 30cc's larger so I don't think they'd make a humongous difference, and they'd allow me to use a Pallnet fuel rail for 11mm injectors. This would allow me to easily upgrade to larger injectors in the future, without changing fuel rails.
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Well for now I'm going to use a GReddy RS BOV because I already own it, and if it becomes a nuisance I'll replace it with a recirculating type. I got my car out of storage today, w00t! I'll be pulling the motor tomorrow morning, and I hope to have it done by noon so I can start cleaning out the engine bay. I am gonna miss my triple Webers!!!
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anyone else?
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.....anyone?
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Well, I'm on spring break this week, which really isn't a break at all since I'll be splitting my time between my job and working on the car, but I'm pretty excited. My gas tank came in yesterday, and my flywheel, intake manifold, and injectors should be coming in soon!
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Oh... so to switch from low to high impedance I would have to do...what, change the resistor(s)?
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So it's all a matter of choice then for the most part? cjames, I plan on mounting the tach and speedo in the stock locations, then boost, oil pressure, and water temp in the cluster, then fuel level, oil temp, and voltage will be mounted either where the heater controls used to be, or I will make a custom fusebox cover with the gauges in them.
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rudypoochris, I would first like to commend your efforts on putting this together; it's obviously cost you many an hour on the computer! I've only read the first three and last three pages, so is it still possible to get in on this? Did anyone figure out approx. what the wheels would weigh?
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I searched, I searched! I couldn't figure out exactly what type of gauges I need. I know I need 5" for the speedo and tach and 2 5/8" for the cluster, and I am leaning towards either Pro-comp or Ultra-lite, but I don't know if I need mechanical, liquid-filled mechanical, electric short sweep or electric full sweep for which gauges. I'll be running an L28ET in my '73 240Z. I want fuel level, oil pressure, water temp, oil temp, voltage, and boost, and maybe fuel pressure in addition to the tach and speedo
240Z L28ET project
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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got them from Motorsport Auto. Here's the direct link: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/saleengdress