ihiryu

Jay and ZTR DO either of you guys have pictures of underneath your car?

I bought the MSA "JDM" kit, and I was wondering if anyone had a pic of them molded on rather than bolted? I tried to search but could only find pictures of them bolted, or a lot of them that had crazy bubble flares.

So I think I found some more stuff, there's a few things just kinda there, and my defroster doesn't work. The heater core hoses are there, and the vacuum space ship thing is there, so I'm starting to think it's the cabling. I haven't been able to find a diagram of it, even in the FSM. Any help with a pic?

Hey guys, I'm excited just got my RB20 the other day, waiting on my oil pan to make it back from the one and only Pat1. I've got a few questions regarding A/C and cooling. I've read that the sway bar will have to get spaced out because of the A/C compressor bracket, has anyone else encountered this? And if so, what did they do about it? As far as A/C wiring goes, I've looked into my Chilton book, and it seems that the A/C is tied to the chassis harness, and does not interface the ECU like modern cars do. According from Chilton the A/C is turned on via switch, and it also powers the FICD which causes the idle to pick up. So I wonder if I can feed the wire from the FICD to the ECU of the RB20 to act as the idle up switch. I don't know if that wire is ground or power, but if I can figure out what the RB20 ecu wants to see I can convert polarities using a relay. Hopefully it doesn't and I can just tap the wire to it. ::WHEW:: The next question pertains to cooling, is the stock radiator adequate for cooling the RB? I wanted to order a radiator and fan combo, but my biggest fear is fitment. I think I may try stock radiator and the famous taurus fan, but I guess it'll all come down to how much space I have. Thanks for the help!

John, Thanks for the reply. I'm looking at the schematic in my Chilton manual. From what I see, the blower motor gets power supplied from the A/C relay, and the ground is supplied from the A/C resistor, but the resistor is connected to the fan switch and there is one ground there. Would it be safe to say that is the correct ground I'll be looking at?

So today I had the A/C running at full blast (as usual) I made a stop at a realty, went inside for a few minutes, came out and the blower motor stopped working. I kept fiddling with the control unit (switching it 0-4) and it eventually came on. Was good to go, went to another stop came out same thing. So I take a look at about four different houses, and the blower motor seemed good. Got onto the highway then the blower motor stopped for a second and came back on. So the problem is definitely intermediate, but I'd like to remedy the problem before it gets worse. I did some searching and don't think the issue with my A/C resistor since mode 4 doesn't work when it cuts out (resistor reduces power to the blower motor for the speed).

So nothing for a rack swap? I'm in this situation too, though it's not too bad without power steering, but I figured since my RB still had the pump on it, it might be a worthwhile thing to do.

I need just the plug (the part that's in the car). I still haven't been able to remove it, and I don't want to break anything

I guess I'll go ahead and grab one up. By the way it looks though there doesn't seem to be any power to it. My multimeter shows continuity to ground. Guess I'll take a look for fuses next too.

Hey guys, I'm pretty new to the S30 chassis, I tried to search but couldn't find anything on replacing the cigarette lighter on my 280z. Any help would be appreciated.

76, I'm not sure the month of production though.

As title states I'm looking for a left side fender and door for a 280Z, I'm looking for someone decently local in Texas.