ihiryu

Well the E60 is hard to find, the E60 isn't available stateside. There's also two forms of the E60 (red label for RB20) and the regular label (everything else). The N62 is scaled differently, so it's able to give you the potential to scale for more power. Meaning that where the E60 would see the full 5v, the N62 would be only 4v, thus giving you a little more leeway. Plus being readily available makes things a bit easier too.

Hey guys who purchased 4" GPS' from me shoot me a PM with your email so I can forward something to you from Speed Hut! Seems there's a slight issue with the gauges, and a resistor needs to be installed on the 12+ IGN wire.

As title states, looking for the tool, would need it shipped to 76543 Thanks!

Wow! I've always thought about using a reed switch for this same use. It's crazy that someone already did it.

Sounds pretty cool I use this in my Lexus http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-multimedia-system-erisin-777a-Android-with-bonus-reverse-camera-/121051248876?pt=Car_Audio_Video&hash=item1c2f3778ec&vxp=mtr Rooted it, and overclocked it, works pretty good. Battery life in the tablet isn't that great though. I was looking at this to integrate a cell phone to a touch screen. But I use my phone so much all ready, and don't want something else draining from it. http://www.mp3car.com/blogs/146465_hardware-review-customgadz-x2-module-for-android.html I was also looking into these as well http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Core-Android-4-1-MK808-TV-BOX-Mini-PC-stick-Thumb-Rockchip-RK3066-HDMI-A9-/400387148865?pt=US_Internet_Media_Streamers&hash=item5d38ef0c41 There's been quite the review on them, seems like everyone likes them. Purchasing a bluetooth mouse and keyboard (2 in 1), and a small HDMI screen, should be good enough. I think it would work with a bit of work.

RB20 for me. The 8K redline and ease of the swap itself was the selling point. Virtually buy motor and oil pan, and everything swaps in. I did my RB20 swap for virtually the cost of just the SR20 motorset

Nice build! I just went through all 19 pages of this all! I just realized you're out in Austin, that's a hop skip and a jump for me (I live in Killeen). Anyway I could come out and check out your Z one of these days?

Not a problem, on my Z when I did my RB20 swap, I pulled switch power from the ignition switch. However, since you are combining three of them you may want to run an external relay. I would run the relay out to engine bay, and tap a wire from the ignition switch to the relay. So relay wiring would be: 85 -> ground 86 -> Ignition switch 87-> Battery 30-> Three wires from EB2 and IJ1 The start harness will be coming from the factory lower harness. Keep in mind the factory lower harness has the oil pressure, starter signal and something else important in there (I think the water temp?). So you'll swap over your oil pressure sensor to the UZ's location. And the starter signal will go to Black wire on EB2. This of course is from my 280Z, I don't know how it be different it will be on your chassis. Also, on my car the fuel pump wiring was under the passenger seat. You'll have to find the fuel pump wiring and wire up a relay there too. If I remember correctly the ECU should output a GROUND signal. So you're relay will be pinned out the same with the exception of 85 and 86. 85 will be switch 12v or constant 12v and 86 will be from the ECU, and 30 will go to fuel pump power. That's how I would do anyway, in theory this should fire up. However I have to put a disclaimer that you'll want to verify my work, and if your car or yourself has damages then it's all on you. -Steve

Okay, I looked at a few things I have from when I did the swap. http://imageshack.us/a/img685/4695/199719871uzfesuprawirin.png First save this image, you'll need the plugs EB1, EB2, and and IJ2. To get the car to run: You need switched power to EB2. This is a black and orange wire. You need switched power to EB2. This is a black and red wire You need switched power to IJ2. This is a black and orange wire. You need constant power to EB1. This is a black and yellow wire To start you need to supply "start" power to EB2(1) which is a black wire. This information is both from SuperRunner (whom I got the flywheel for) and Chambers from supramania. This will get the car to run, you'll have to figure out the fuel pump wiring though. On the SC400 it uses a fuel pump ecu to power the fuel pump. So pretty much use the ECU output to a relay, and fuel pump power. That should be to get the car up and running.

sure not a problem, what wiring do you have though? Just the engine wiring? If I remember correctly, you're going to need the plugs that go to the fuse box as well. I used a SC400 harness and mated to my 7m harness.

Bah, I hope you make more of these, it'd be handy to have

A few guys on club lexus have been doing the six speed swap. The biggest problem is shifter position (of course this isn't a big deal on our S30's really) and speed signal. Apparently the signal from the Z33 comes from the ABS sensors rather than a sensor on the transmission. I wish I had a UZ in my Z now, but a manual supercharged SC400 is more than enough for me I'm using a W58 on my SC though. Oh! For the driveshaft people are using the yoke for a nissan titan. If need be I can link you to the thread on Club Lexus. I did the wiring on my MA70 when I did my 1UZ swap. The wiring portion is a bit easy, doesn't take much to get her running.

Sorry for the late reply. Takes a bit of time to get them adjusted. I mounted them with the diagrams for the fender mirrors. So I adjusted the body to tilt over a little. Then I had help from two people; one to adjust the glass, and one to lean on my rear quarter panel. The key is to see their waist in the mirror. If you see their chest it's too high.

Since I've dated my girlfriend, I've been through a bit of different cars. She has helped me before on another car I had (1uz turbo swapped supra) that broke the radiator. I was getting frustrated that the radiator busted (turbo was hitting the radiator, and never noticed it since the turbo was in the way lol), and I was attempting to take out the radiator in front of her apartment to see if I could patch it up. I was getting frustrated cause I couldn't get it out, and she comes over, and says "Hey babe, hold on" she tugs on the lower radiator hose, and she motions for me to lift up on the radiator and bam, out she comes. She helped me reinstalled it and even watched me bleed the coolant. I digress, as far as the Z goes. She kinda likes it, she is just worried since it's old. When I first got it, she wouldn't go with my to Dallas to see my family. She said, "Well if you break down, who is going to get you?". I laughed and went on my way. I've put a little more work into the Z, but she seems to like my MR2 more than the Z. I think she just likes the Z cause I like it. When she first rode in it, she was amazed that the car had a lot of stuff, was really comfortable, and even had A/C.

I have 'em on mine. I set it up using the measurements I found on here. They are plastic though. I'd be willing to purchase the same set for a bit more if they were metal.

Well I'll gladly take a missing brake light instead of a battery drain

So here's an update, I figured out what's wrong. It took me a little bit of time of going over everything I did, and I feel a bit sheepish about it now. I followed the Atlantic Z car's guide which states to hook up two and three together, HOWEVER On Z car creation's page, it shows to hook up THREE and SIX together. I hooked up three and six together, now my charge light is working, and it seems like my drain is gone (verified through a craftsman multimeter not my trusty fluke though). Seems like this is specific to the 76 though.

So here's an update, I figured out what's wrong. It took me a little bit of time of going over everything I did, and I feel a bit sheepish about it now. I followed the Atlantic Z car's guide which states to hook up two and three together, HOWEVER On Z car creation's page, it shows to hook up THREE and SIX together. I hooked up three and six together, now my charge light is working, and it seems like my drain is gone (verified through a craftsman multimeter not my trusty fluke though). Seems like this is specific to the 76 though.

Sure thing, I'm not in the office until Monday. Give me a hollar Monday. -Steve

I had those on my S2000. Apparently they are illegal in Texas. Not becase of the lighting, but the fact that it covers the license plate. Cop said if I mounted it ABOVE the plate it would be legal

Lookin' good, I was wondering when you'd update. How'd the wiring go?

Could you link me to Blue's website?

I'm not sure, but I'm sure you could use relays. So pretty much; 85-> Power 86-> Turn signal switch 30-> Ground 87-> Wiring harness So when the turn signal turns on and it supplies ground, it'll ground 30 pin to 87. Kinda of a pain considering you would have to wire two relays, but I'm sure that will work.

Hit up Pat1, he did the oil pan for 500 for me.

Thanks for being a part of it! Glad you got them, I wonder why it took so long though.