ihiryu

If the ECU is going into diagnostic mode, then it *should* be good. However the early Toyota ECU's are known for dying from leaking caps. I would remove the ECU to inspect. I know on the ISC, the one from the Soarer is prone to failure, as is the one from the Celisor/LS400. However the LS400 is rebuild-able, and the bearings are easily sourced. On my SC400, I've had a bunch of bad luck with the ECU's.

It's grounded, for future reference, no ECU sends out a positive signal. It doesn't generate enough power to

That makes sense, when I thought I had a faulty CAS on my RB20 I installed a VG30 CAS and while it physically fit, the car would not start. Stony if I shipped the VG30 CAS to you, would you try to see if it would with your modified cam? If so, it gives us RB guys another (albeit more work) option. If it works, I may just do it since the Z32 CAS is easier to find than the RB series CAS.

Personally I would sell the autometer and go with a Speedhut because they offer a GPS speedometer. So no matter what wheels, tire size, rear end, trans, engine etc changes speedometer will always be right. Hit me up, I can get a decent discount on 'em.

How is yours hooked up Stony? I hooked mine up by cutting the plug on the stock alternator, then spliced the wires by the gauge sizes (one was thicker than the other)

Stony, I'm starting to believe it's a bad diode or rectifier inside the alternator that is causing my drain. I double checked the wiring again, I can isolate everything by removing it from the power side of everything (thus leaving the alternator the only one on the fuse) and I still have the drain.

NewZed Thanks so much! You wouldn't believe how much that helps me!

Okay guys, I hate to say this, but my old man shows me up again. When I was talking to my old man (he came over last night to steal some of my beer) about my predicament he asks me if I was using the multimeter right. I never swapped the red pin from the Ohm/Continuity port on my Fluke. So late last night I moved the red over to the 10a slot and test again. ECU and CEL have no draw. ONLY the alternator has a draw. I also removed the starter from my battery terminal to make sure it wasn't the starter. When I got home, I removed the alternator fuse, let the car sit, and this morning plugged it back in, and it started right up. So it's confirmed that somewhere in the wiring is my draw. I'm looking through the FSM, but it doesn't show the entire circuit of the alternator. Can someone correct me if I'm wrong, but to my understanding the alternator is actually daisy chained. Alternator->starter->maxi fuse->battery. Is that right?

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/109965-battery-drain-problem-after-swap/ This is my original thread I started up. So I've got my draw coming from three places; Alternator, CEL fuse, and ECU fuse. The ECU fuse is the white/purple wire and white/black (these are ECU memory and require +12v). I wired them together, and put an inline fuse to them. The CEL fuse is one I added. I cut the wires from the floor temp light, one side to battery, and the other to ECU (ECU grounds one side to turn on the light). The Alternator wiring was done by cutting the plug from the original harness, and had the RB20 one added on. And I followed the Atlantic Z Car write up to convert from external to internal regulator. And I went ahead and did a maxi-fuse install. If I reconnect ANY of the fuses separately I get a massive draw ECU fuse adds 4.xx CEL fuse adds 3.xx Alt fuse adds 5.xx Add all three of them together I only get a 5.xx draw (for some reason I figured it'd add up or compound, not stay the same). Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

So I think I did my test wrong or something previously. On the RB swap there is two wires that need 12+ all the time; ECU memory and one other one. I tied both of them together and fused it to my add-on fuse box to a 30 amp fuse. I wired up my CEL light via the floor lamp by cutting both wires, adding on to the battery to a 5 amp fuse, and the other to the ECU (ecu grounds that wire). I removed the ECU fuse, and the CEL fuse, along with the Alternator Maxi fuse, and my power draw disappeared all together. I find that very strange since the ECU must have those wires to keep the ECU memory, so I'm starting to think that my ECU is staying on. I had to remove one of two of the relays since one of them would keep the ECU on (which I've read elsewhere). I realized that after I wired up my CEL (since the the CEL stayed lit even though the key was off). If I reinstall any of the three fuses the draw comes back. With just the CEL fuse installed the draw goes up to 3.xx amps. The ECU fuse alone shoots up to 4.xx amps, and the alternator maxi fuse alone it goes up to a whopping 5.27 amps of draw. At this point I'm really confused on what is going on. I followed the swap write up, and took a look at the wiring for the s13/s14 and they virtually do the same thing. Two wires to +12v, one to ignition on, one to start. Plus fuel pump relay. I've checked those wires over and over again to get it right. At this point I don't know what's going on with the ECU side of things. I guess for now I'll just keep those three fuses disconnected overnight.

Got home removed my seat, check both plugs for power, and none of them had power with the key off. Disconnected the positive cable and put the multimeter between it set on amps, disconnected both plugs from their respective relays and nothing. Removed my maxi fuse for the alternator and the drain is slowly dropping. I'm going to let it sit and wait for it to settle. Unfortunately it wasn't the seat relay even though I followed the alantic z car write up as well. No it doesn't. My draw for some reason is at 5 amps, instead of the 1.34 or whatever it was at before. Disconnected the fuse for the alternator is causing it to slowly drop though.

The add-ons are just a regular aftermarket fuse box that is connected to the positive battery terminal. And yes, I have tried to remove them. The only thing that is a bit hard is the battery positive on the alternator, a tight place to get to it. Where is the condenser at? For some reason I don't recall seeing it. I spliced the factory wiring to the RB alternator plug. And ditched the external regulator.

All that stuff is fused. The only thing it's funny because I was thinking about disconnected the battery power wire from the alternator. That and the starter.

I just completed my RB20 swap on my 76. I set my multimeter to to amps, and put it in line of the positive battery cable to terminal, and got 1.34 on the meter. I began with removing the fuses I added, and the maxi-fuses. When I removed the fuse for the alternator the drain dropped down just a little, (IIRC it went down to 1.2 or so), but still way over the limit. At that point I disconnected all the interior fuses, and even the ECU with no luck. Any other ideas guys?

Orders are going out today! Should be getting here pretty soon!

Hey guys I got my car running (yay!) runs and idles pretty solid. Runs pretty rich, but the problem is my CEL is blinking. Non-stop, no matter what I've done with the diagnostic screw on the ECU it just keeps blinking in a constant blinking. Any ideas??

Almost everyone has paid their deposit, orders hopefully will be going in either tomorrow, or at the latest first thing Monday!

Hey guys that I'm waiting on deposits still, there's already a few people who have already deposited money. Speedhut is allowing me to let orders trickle in so it's still not too late. Also if you decided that you can't make the group buy just let me know so I don't keep everyone else waiting. The biggest thing is that they are shipping the orders to me (no drop ship unfortunately) then I will send it out after the rest is paid. Guys who have sent deposits, if you didn't order with logos, your orders *should* be filled up first. Also keep in mind that the rest of the money is coming out of my own pocket to get everything rolling. Please don't screw me The biggest fear I have is someone ordering the gauges with a deposit then leaving me with the tab. These gauges are non-refundable so I'll be stuck with them until I can sell them. Thanks everyone for making this possible! If this turns out well (which I feel that it should), I'll try to run another one of these group buys at a later date. Guys, you don't have to reach me solely via PM, you're more than welcome to call or email me too! -Steve

Finished! Well almost anyway. Waiting on my I/C piping to make it, and get all that fitted on. Got the car to crank up and fire today (stalls since no I/C) then fill up A/C make sure it all works. I was able to reuse the factory oil pressure switch, on the coolant though, I had to use the stock RB sensor, and wired it into the Z chassis. I don't know how it's going to read though. Oh and the RPM gauge, I need to find the factory wire for the Tach, and I'm just going to plug in the RB tach signal to the gauge. I know it'll read wrong, but having a gauge that reads nothing would make me go crazy. At this point I'm using the stock fan and clutch from the RB, along with the stock radiator and shroud from the Z. It's a really tight fit though, I've got about 1/4 of an inch from the fan to radiator. I'm worried that it's going to touch when I'm driving. I cut the plug for the floor temp light (since it didn't work) and rewired it for my CEL. For anyone doing the swap, the wiring to the fuel pump is on the plug underneath the passenger seat. The wires are G/L and B. I took black to ground, and G/L to the new relay. So intercooler, BOV, and doing something about the downpipe and exhaust.

This is for my reference (since I like to jot on napkins that ultimately get thrown away). This is for the Z alternator to RB alternator, I don't know if this is right, but it should be. Z RB (purpose) Black, Black (Ground) Big White/Red, Big White/Blue (Battery) White, Small White/Red (Gauge charging light) Yellow, Small White/Blue (Sense) Does anyone see anything wrong with this? I'm going to wire it up this way, hopefully nothing burns down.

The motor mounts are a little short, so I wouldn't suggest using them, one mount is overly tweaked, but I'll worry about that later. Anyway, some new pics Motor starting to go in Here's a pic of the motor and FMIC mock up. Gotta get some new intercooler pipes, come to find out 3" is a little too big for the holes on the core support. So it's kinda hard to see but here's the A/C compressor tensioner bracket to the sway bar clearance: My stock style driveshaft from the awesome guys Driveshaft Specialist (free plug for them, quick shipping http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/)

Kaito, the mounts I used were from a Jaguar XJ6 (I think) it's an early nineties, late eighties model. (Edit 1981 and the Beck/Arnley P/N 1040294) I had the mounts in earlier and they were a snug fit. I ended up taking a drill and enlarged the hole slightly bigger than what they are now. At this point, I'm kind of stuck, my turbo manifold's wastegate tube is resting on the steering shaft. I'll have to pull it out and get it cut and rewelded. I took a few pictures that I will upload tomorrow. Yes my car is a 280z, I looked at the diagram and figured out they were injector resistors. Also on the coil area, I believe the one of the plugs go the A/C compressor. The driveshaft should line up, I no longer have a stock driveshaft (U-Joints went south, and mine are serviceable), so I had one made out of aluminum for a STOCK 280Z coupe. Using the stock mounts allowed the A/C compressor bracket to clear the sway bar also. Again, I'll shoot some more pics tomorrow.

Forgive me if the picture size is too large, I tried to find a way to edit them on photobucket with no luck So this is the RB when I first got it back to the shop This is the OE 350Z clutch to install with the RB20 flywheel Pat1's awesome oil pan Head off for the new head gasket (OEM) Broke turbo How the engine sits, the factory turbo manifold is on, I'll get pics with the new mani after I get it modified for the new wastegate. So now here's a few pics of "WTF is this, and do I need it?" Item number 1 The white thing next to the coil. It's attached to the coil itself also. Item number 2 This little doodad, it's attached to the chassis right next to the coil Item number 3 This is by the clutch slave cylinder, the factory EFI harness attaches to it (there's another one behind it). I think it's a resistor box. Item number 4 This looks like a vacuum line, but it wasn't attached to anything, it could also be the windshield wiper squirter?

Forgive me if the picture size is too large, I tried to find a way to edit them on photobucket with no luck So this is the RB when I first got it back to the shop This is the OE 350Z clutch to install with the RB20 flywheel Pat1's awesome oil pan Head off for the new head gasket (OEM) Broke turbo How the engine sits, the factory turbo manifold is on, I'll get pics with the new mani after I get it modified for the new wastegate. So now here's a few pics of "WTF is this, and do I need it?" Item number 1 The white thing next to the coil. It's attached to the coil itself also. Item number 2 This little doodad, it's attached to the chassis right next to the coil Item number 3 This is by the clutch slave cylinder, the factory EFI harness attaches to it (there's another one behind it). I think it's a resistor box. Item number 4 This looks like a vacuum line, but it wasn't attached to anything, it could also be the windshield wiper squirter?

PM'ed those who were interested, there's still time guys! I just need the deposit so I can begin ordering the gauges!