ihiryu

Sorry I already got them

Thanks for the help, the noise is coming directly from the differential. So either the diff is bad, or the driveshaft is bad. But the off center driveshaft is my biggest concern.

So I made it home and this morning I jacked up the rear of the car, and spun each rear wheel only to hear a slight clunk noise. Jacked up the other side, and same clunk noise. I took a peek underneath and saw my drive shaft spinning, but it was off center. So I'm thinking my propeller shaft (transmission to differential) has gone bad. A little research online shows that you can't replace the u-joints in the Z's driveshaft. I don't have a lift available to me at the moment (two cars stuck on our lifts to get work finished up). So does anyone know about if there's anything else I should look out for? Or do I just need to order a new propeller shaft?

I mean delete the old heat and A/C stuff under the dash, looks like it'll fit IMO

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone has used the Old Air A/C kit? I hate to say it, but it seems like is a much better deal than the Vintage Air kit. http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/custom-street-rod-ac-units/700800-series-ac-systems-c-30000000_32000000_37000000.html The kits seem to be a better buy than the VA units. What do you guys think? I was thinking about using the IP-800HC.

So right before I get on the highway my car had a strange vibration, I figured it was the road. As I got onto the highway it got worse, and something didn't feel right at all. At sixty miles an hour the vibration was terrible, and the faster I went the worse it got. I pulled over (it was night and hard to see) but I took a peek underneath and nothing seemed amiss. No driveshaft hanging, no axles hanging, nothing weird. Checked the lug nuts, and visually inspected spacers (everything looked flush against the rotor). The vibration seems like it comes from the rear. Any ideas to check guys?

Same here, mine JUST started. I was driving all day, no problems, then all of sudden it starts to vibrate. The faster I go the worse it becomes. I want to say it's coming from the rear, but I don't hear any crazy noises.

You making five or four lug spacers??

Okay guys, I'm having a predicament. My A/C works, but my defroster, and heater no longer works. I've taken what I can apart and can't seem to find out what's wrong. My plan is to remove the heater core, and misc. heater parts. My plans are going to install a universal heater, such as http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-991106/?rtype=1 Or the Flex-A-Lite Mojave unit. But has anyone done anything like this before? I know people usually do it backwards (removing A/C leaving heater). -Steve

My problem was actually my right front blinker. Had some corrosion in it and it kept blowing my fuses too

Solid write up, definitely keep this in mind once I start developing problems lol

Let me know what you're looking for and I can give you some pricing

Well, here's an update. Went ahead and just bought a Turbonetics T3/T4 turbo, bought an eBay manifold off from a guy from Zilvia for a song. I've already got a wastegate from one of my other builds. So all I'm waiting for now is to start mocking everything together and figure out the oil lines. Oh, and my five bolt to V band adapter, and my other MAF. I bought another ECU since mine was a little suspect, and my motor set didn't come with a MAF, so I went ahead and bought a N60 and N62 from another guy off of Zilvia. I've also gotten in contact with Carl H who does ROM tunes. So here's my two options: 1) Install everything, pray that my both my ECUs are good, and install the N60 to get the car running. 2) Send off both ECU's to Carl H, wait for them to return (since I don't know if one of them is good or bad) with the GTR Injectors, and it'll be all tuned and ready to go. I think I'm going to go with Option 2 since I'm deathly afraid that only one of my ECU's are good, and that'll mean that my car will have down time waiting for ECU to return. Another thing also is I'm super anxious to get the car running with the RB, but it runs now, and it's not a big deal I guess, but I'm waiting on a few MISC pieces anyway. Every day I see my 20 just sitting there,a nd it's like a huge tease ha ha.

Sweet! 1UZ's are crazy reliable. My SC400 has over 300K on the clock now, and doesn't burn a lick of oil. I just recently supercharged it too using the Lextreme "Fish" bracket. What are you using for engine management?

Ugh, that's what I was worried about, I can't seem to find those spacers anywhere

Okay, so let me get this straight one more time.... Z31 front hubs + rotors, and Toyota NON VENTED Calipers will all bolt on, but will give me a TOTAL of 3/4 increase (meaning 3/8's per side). No need for spacer right?? On the rear, since I'm afraid of ordering it from Modern, I may have to go with the MSA maxima conversion instead. If that's the case, Maxima caliper + Z31 Rotor (and drilling the original hub) would be correct also.

Hopefully this goes well and I can continue to work on this group buy!

05/19/2020 Hey everyone! I am sorry I haven't been on HZ in so long! I am still actively selling the gauges, it's been some time since I've been on here, but I am still selling gauges. PLEASE let me know you found me via Hybrid Z, and I will continue to donate. I still work at the same shop, so the information is STILL the same! -Steve Hey guys, I know I'm relatively new to the boards, I am a new Z owner and I see a lot of people looking to purchase the Speedhut gauges. At my company we are becoming a Speedhut gauge dealer, and right now we're offering a discount on their gauges! For instance, what seems to be the most popular is the Revolution 4" with turns and high beam indicator: I can also sell the gauge kits they offer on their website for a bit cheaper also. PM me what you're looking for, payment can be taken via Paypal (though if you paypal, it will have to go through my personal) or you can call me and I can do card over the phone. If you're interested, either email, call, or post on the thread, and I can definitely see what I can do on pricing. The first initial batch of gauges will go out at the beginning of next month, and if popular enough, I would like to run this group buy for a month. The more gauges you order, the deeper the discount! The shop I work for our information is 3310 E. Veterans Memorial BLVD Killeen, TX 76543 www.krmotorsportsonline.com 254-680-3308 http://www.facebook.com/KRMotorsports?ref=hl EFFECTIVE IMMEDIATELY! 08/05/2017 1% OF PROFITS WILL GO DIRECTLY TO KEEPING HYBRIDZ UP AND RUNNING!!!!

I'm also interested in the coils that you make cockerstar

Whoo, got a lot done today. Pulled the motor apart to install: 350Z clutch, all external seals, head gasket, water pump, timing belt kit, new spark plugs. Found out my turbo is broke....but not in the normal sense of broken. The T3 flange straight broke off.... Turbo is at the welder, he doesn't think it'll hold for very long. Hopefully it'll last long enough for my to putt around in to break in the clutch while I find a RB25 turbo. Intercooler, O2 dump, and downpipe should be here soon. And I'm still waiting on my dang fender mirrors. It's the first thing I ordered, and seems to be the last thing I'll get....

SOLVED!! Guys I want to thank everyone so much for giving me a hand. Ultimately I found this out via search, but still I was dumbfounded on what to find. Corrosion was actually building up on my front and rear turn signal sockets. I never removed the bulbs (since I've only had the car a few weeks and they were working). Took some electrical cleaner to them, and all is well. Hazard comes on without blowing the bulb. Everything works....too bad I butchered up my turn signal switch (trying to clean it) before I figured it out

Well someone recommended me to take out the hazard switch and cleaned it. I removed it cleaned it up, and nothing. I smelled the hazard switch and it kind of had a burnt smell to it, but nothing on the inside seemed bad. I tested it as described in the FSM (pretty checking continuity) and it passed it. I replaced the fuse, and same thing. I was able to get the hazard to click on, but I wasn't able to inspect it on the outside before the fuse blew.

Awesome, you wouldn't have a spare ECU too would ya? My ecu has some surface rust, so I don't know what the guts of it look like. Yes the SAFC will account for the Z32 MAF. The SAFC has MAF settings for different MAF's for different cars. If you download the manual you'll see a section called "MAF Settings" which allow you to insert numbers into two columns. Each number is for a different MAF. So on my 240SX (with KA) the input for the MAF was 2, and for the Z32 MAF I would have 5 set on the output. Pretty nifty. I had a lot of good luck with the SAFC and JWT ECU in my S14. The biggest thing is I hate is downtime, so I guess once I get all my upgrades, then I'll send a spare ecu into Carl to do it.

First I've heard of Carl H, just sent him a PM over a NICO. For now I'll just add a Z32 MAF and SAFC since I don't have a RB20 MAF. Once I score some injectors and upgrade the turbo then I'll get my ECU tuned.

Yup I ordered the PLH harness, and once my car goes down for the RB20 swap I'll be sending off my switches to get rebuilt. I was just hoping it didn't have to go down that road just yet