rwwisnesky

P.S. - I did not run the fan controls thru the computer. I figured it had enough to worry about just running the engine !!!

I did get a themostat and set it to come on at 180%. I also ran it thru a toggle that has 3 positions: low speed, hi speed and off. The thermostat controls the temp it comes on, the toggle controls fan speed and off position.

Interesting, I sent mine to JCI and it works. However, when i punch it, it goes wild. Guess i will just have to live with it!! Even if I could have it fixed, not sure it is worth pulling the dash again to get it done.

The project is finally finished. The engine is in and runs strong !!! The paint turned out great and the car is back together. The journey began July 28, 2007 and ended April 22, 2008. That is if it ever ends. Some minor adjustments to go. Thanks to everyone that helped over the last year. Hybrid Z and its members are the best !!! P.S. I got another 280Z, may do it again !!!

Thanks for the compliment. I used Eastwood trunk paint black/grey and put three coats of Easwood diamond clear over it for protection. It seals it as the base coat is not water proof.

I dont have the paint code, will ask the painter. It is the original color, metallic silver. He did put three coats of clear coat on it. He said the paint code is still carried over, so original color, latest technology paint. I am susposed to pick it up today. Then its put the bumpers etc back on. Thanks for the comments !! The color is slightly lighter than the pics, must be the lights.

I did not cut any of the "strap" on my 1978 280Z. I only ground the ears down flush with the strap.

I have not posted in a while. The LS1 conversion is complete, and the car is in the paint shop for a redo. We are in the third week of the makeover, about one more week to go. Car was stripped down, block sanded, epoxy primered, painted and clear coated. Now it wil be sanded again and polished. The shop mostly does old rods and muslcle cars, doesn't do to many cars as "NEW" as my 1978. Exterior will be all original, including color. Hope you like the pictures

I went to Advance Auto Parts and got 2 16" flex hoses and went from the radiator to the coulpler to the engine (return), and 1 for the inlet. Worked fine for me.

Bleeding is a real challenge. Once it was in the car (1978 280Z), I had to lay on my back and approach the bleeder from the front. Manuever a deep socket into the hole and on to the fitting. Then attach a small ratched (requires a double jointed wrist). Then you can open the bleeder. It will run thru the socket and down the outside of the bell housing. It was a real joy to do, good luck. Another way is to drill a 2" hole in the tunnel with a flat blade bit and approach it from inside the car. If I ever have to bleed it again, I will do the hole routine.

Thanks for the confirmation on the volt meter. It appears I am good to go and didnt have a problrm at all. Must have had a senior moment when I could not remember the gage being on over the last 30 years !!!!

Looks like I opened a hornets nest here. I have owned the Z for over 30 years, you would think I would have noticed the gage before now!! Based on the comments above, it appears it should be on. I also sorted thru the shop manual and on page BE-33 it appears that the meter is not switched. I like the idea above about going to a switched power source. Can anyone confirm for certain the meter stays on with the switch off? Seems odd to me.

Its the original fuel/Voltage combo gage in the 78Z

OK, the tack is back and the dash is in. The instruments seem to be functioning properly, BUT. The amp meter appears to be working, but when I turn the ignition off, the meter continues to read the volts. I thought it use to go off with the key. Can someone check their's and let me know. Also, how did you hook the LS_1 alternator wire (big one) into the Z, it is possible I caused the problem when I did that.

They look really great. Were they expensive, and did you happen to keep the part number ??

What was the final outcome on the engine mount. Did John send you a new one

Mine are straight ( see Pics ), close, but so far so good !!!

My Pontiac Trans Am LS_1 wires are still on with JTR (Sanderson) headers. They came with the metal heat shield. Only one on the passenger side looks a little close to the tubes.

I would call him along with an e-mail & picture. Have him ship you a new one. I know it will slow you down, but you need to get it right.

Sorry, dont have a clue on a Z-32 swap.

If you want to check out some pictures, here is the link from start to finish of my project. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2282022

I just used the GM standard gasket. I think the part number is 12600530, its a double layer metal gasket.

Stick with what works. Go to JTR and order the Sanderson ceramic coated headers. The are top notch, but mor importantly they fit with the engine in the car without any cutting or grinding. Put them on my 1978 Datsun 280Z with a Pontiac Trans Am LS_1 with 6 speed.

It sounds mellow outside the car. Inside seems to be OK, but I have not driven it much yet as I am still putting the car together. Next time I take it out I will run the video. Still need the tach from John's so I can get the dash back in.

Running stock fuel pump, holding 58-60 pounds. Pressure will not be your problem.