rwwisnesky

I think when I reworked the Z harness, I removed the black ground wire in the C1 connector, thus ungrounding the tach. In the process of reworking it now, hope it works.

I have a JTR radiator. Pulled the driver side hose from radiator, took off the cap, held the hose above the engine and added fluid until it came out the cap. No fuss, no muss, no air pockets. Back filled thru the block.

I had John's Cars rework the original tach in my 1978 280Z to work with the LS1. My problem is that the Tach jumps all over when I get on it. I am going straight from the computer to the tach via the dash harness. There was a resistor between the old coil and the tach before. Anyone know if I need to keep it between the computer and tha tach??? The tach is fine as long as I rev the engine slowly.

You said John's kit ....... did you mean John's Cars or JTR. Didnt realize John's Cars had a kit.... I did get most of the other items from John's Cars, but tubing, headers and radiator from JTR.

If you go to "jags that run" JTR website he has the whole kit. I bought one, but decided to stop at the first bend. The tubing is top notch.

Does the speedo use an Xbox thats converts digital to analog or a new speedo run thru the computer.

I am using the old Z harness. Wire from dash switch to relay. Pressure switch on dryer and then one wire to A/C. I think I can bypass the pressure switch since I am getting a new dryer, and run the single wire to the A/C. If it works it will be just like the old A/C. Just have to find the wire to the compressor on the drivers side Z harness. Did you actually pull the A/C wire from the old Z harness. If you did I think you can simply run a new one from the relay. I think I am going to do that also.

Savage42. I received the kit and installed it over the weekend. I noticed that your belt and pully layout is different than what John's cars had layed out. You did not mount the idler pully in the far right position in the alternator mounting hole. How did you get it to fit and why did you do it??

The key is the sensor needs to be positioned before the CAT and close enough to the headers so that the sensor will reach and pug in. Paint on mine is Eastwood trunk paint with about 6 coats of diamond clear on top if it.

Pictures of my exhaust are on my web set. Sounds like we have similar set up. Good luck

Forgot to mention. If I had it to do over I might use a fuel filter from a c5 Corvette that has the regulator built in. It would work, but not be adjustable and not have a gage built in.

There is no such thing as a dumb question. I went from the pump into a Tee. From the Tee, one line went to the fuel rail, the other to the presssure regulator. Then from the regulator back to the tank. The regulator also had a vacuum hook up. Then, from the tank vent to the canister. From the canister to the intake manifold to purge it, and a vacuum hook up. I did a sketch, but cant find a way to attach it to this message. Send me your email and ill send it or you can call me at 303 541 0616, always willing to talk to a Z,er in distress

A "whole" is a hole with a w in front of it!!! touche

I had the same issue, drilled the wholes slighty larger, used washers.

Carl, good to hear from you again. Thought you may have been flooded away. Everything OK? Whiz

Unfortunately I ground the old mounts off when I refinished the engine bay. It is quite tite in there now. I may try in front of the radiator ?? Or ???

Great picture Gary, thanks. Was yours R-12 also. I didnt think you could buy it anymore. Mike, any issues with converting. I converted the old 280Z before the LS1, but was never sure what it was doing to the compressor. Where did you mount the dryer?

http://members.cox.net/chipsbyal/page/project/280z/index.htm It looks like a clean install for the A/C

Has anyone purchased John's Cars air conditioning kit. If so, does it work and did it mount easily. Pictures would be great. I have been pleased with all of the other items he provided, and am thinking of adding air. The car came with air, but I lost it in the LS1 conversion process. Thanks in advance

Waite4me performance did mine. They reworked the harness, programmed the computer and did it quickly. check their web site. They are good at what they do !!! $250.00 for both. http://www.wait4meperformance.com/

I used the stock 1978 280z fuel tank and pump. No issues. If your tank does not have a fuel return, you will have to add one. I simply ran fuel into the fuel rail with a T to the pressure regulator and out of the regulater to the fuel return line back to the tank. The vent line from the tank ran into the charcoal canister that I relocated in front of the radiator. Holds 60psi with no problem.

Stick with JTR (Sanderson ceramic coated). Cant go wrong !!

You can check out these pics and see what I did. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2282022

Sent you a PM

I agree, this is what I did, may not be perfect, but it worked. I ran a chain across to both heads in the front and rear, and then picked it up in the middle. It gave me four monting bolts to distribute the weight. In addition, I used ratcheting strape to the tail of the T56 to level it front to rear and adjust angel to clear frame. I have pictures if you want them. Send me your e-mail as I cant attach them to this reply, I dont think.