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Are you a car enthusiast looking to get your foot in the door of the aftermarket racing parts industry? We build and sell racing fuel injection systems, and we're looking for a technical sales and service position. We are looking for someone with experience with installing and tuning tunable aftermarket fuel injection, even if the experience so far has just been on your own personal project or friends' cars rather than paid work. MegaSquirt or AMP EFI experience preferred. Here's what you will be doing. Entering phone orders and creating customer accounts. Helping customers determine which of our products are needed for their projects. Provide technical support for installing and tuning fuel injection systems, by phone, email, and social media. Set up and process returns, including some troubleshooting of returned electronics. Install and test new products and other R&D work alongside our engineering staff. Collect marketing data, bug reports, and other information from customers. Represent our company at trade shows, racing events, and other events. And other tasks as needed - we're a small company, so employees are expected to wear many hats. You might need to help fill in for production, shipping, or product testing if somebody is absent, for example. And here are the skills we need you to have for this job. Experience with installing and tuning aftermarket tunable fuel injection systems. MegaSquirt / AMP EFI preferred. Dyno tuning experience is not required. Good communications skills - in person, over the phone, and in writing. The ability to remain polite, even with difficult customers. Basic computer literacy, and the ability to help customers who don't have this. Familiarity with common race car modifications and the ability to install at least basic bolt on parts. Understanding of electronics and wiring diagrams. We'd prefer if you can also understand schematic drawings of circuit boards. Being able to diagnose and repair circuit boards is a plus, but not required. This is mostly a 40 hour a week office job, but there is some travel (less than 10% of the time), and occasional weekend or after hours work. If you're interested, please email a resume, cover letter, and salary requirements to ben@diyautotune.com. Job location is in Gainesville, Georgia, USA.

Hi Folks, I finished a stout little engine build for a customer of mine here in South Florida. It's a 10:1, 40 over L28 with a decent cam. I assume I'll have to throw some more fuel at this engine but it's going into a stock 1976 280Z with the original fuel injection that was working fine. I have done many engines like this but never into a stock FI system. What is the preferred method of adding fuel? The less complicated the better! Thanks, Greg Ira RevTec

Hello, I have a 77 280z powering a 76 280z cali chassis. This is my real car project and I feel I'm getting close to having this thing as a reliable daily driver. My issues is this: When starting my car, it idles around 800-900rpm and once I get going it starts to float up around 1200rpm. Once the car is warm I can easily find myself at a stoplight idling at 2k rpm. Now, if I leave the car in gear and basically bog it down (let the clutch partway out with the brake on), I can bring the idle down to anywhere I want between 1k-2k rpm. It is strange that it stabilizes wherever I "set" it. Besides this, the car seems to have plenty of power and no other noticeable faults in engine function. This is what seems to set my issues apart (i think) from the hundreds of high idle thread most people are having. Is there something related to the heating up of the motor or FI system that is causing this? FYI - Car lives at 6k feet. The timing is set correctly. Proper AFM function (checked all resistance levels). I've looked over the vacuum lines to the best of my knowledge - my latest breakthrough was moving the vac advance line from intake mani to the throttle body which fixed numerous idle/power issues. Did a vacuum "delete" to just run the basics. Fuel and oil pressure are good. Does this sound like faulty BCDD function or faulty cold start (stuck open)? I have the FSM and FI Bible for those that suggest it - there just may be something I'm not getting. Thanks in advance. Rock the Dashpot

I have an L24 with SU carbs. I've had this idea of the ability to go from carbs to EFI and back relatively easily.This would require a bolt on replacement for the carbs. I'd still be using the stock intake runners and air cleaner. I'd also try to keep the TBs the same length as the carbs. This is what I've doodled so far. This uses a compact EV14 injector: http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/media/catalog_resources/Injection_Valve_EV_14_Datasheet_51_en_2775993867pdf.pdf Some fuel rail I found the dimensions of: http://www.rossmachineracing.com/images/large/dash8wire.jpg And the flange patterns from the SUs. This drawing lacks stuff still. The idle air intake, I figure, could go on the sides of the TBs facing each other and be plumbed to a T where one adjustment screw handles both the TBs idle. The placement of the injector is arbitrary. I just plopped it there and it worked out that the fuel rail doesn't interfere with the stock air cleaner (orange line). It's angle's just 45*. I'm not sure how evenly the fuel would be distributed down the 3 asymmetrical runners with this set up. Probably over thinking that though. The placement of the throttle plate is arbitrary as well. I've merely spaced it 1 cm from the flange to provide room for bolting on the air cleaner. These should retain most of the stock throttle linkage too. This drawing also assumes that both the front and rear of the SUs are 44 mm inside diameter and coaxial. I'm not sure about this. I know next to nothing about injectors. According to some megasquirt literature though; If I want the capability to fuel around 150 HP then I need 2 injectors around 500 cc/min each. Any reasons why this might not be feasible?