happynukes

Ok i've used the search and I've done the research and back searched and forward searched etc. etc. What I want to know is does anyone have hard legitimate number like a dyno run to verify what the longnose R200 is really capable as far as torque capacity. I have read the major stickies (very very informative by the way) and the big one i read over and over again has said that they were capable of 400ft-lbs. plus. "Jmortesen" created a great sticky and blew my mind away with all the options possible in a Z. still reading it to completely grasp the information presented in this one thread, just to soak it up. I would like to see some numbers from someone with a high output engine preferably something that is making 500+ft-lbs of torque. I am in the midst of talking to the "jnj drag racing" brothers or team to find out how they are running a 6-71 blower on a close to stock rear setup. The thing is I have read over and over about how to reinforce the rear from going with a solid mount to a cushioned with polyurethane or both I have totally confused myself by reading all the different opinions about this. I want to go for solid front to back or as soft as the polyurethane (I know this is still a hard material) all the way around just for some security for absortion on the hard launches. The car I am in the midst of setting up over the next couple of years will have a 383 stroker and a 150-250 shot of nitrous which will create over 500ft-lbs. of torque (estimated). This will be a street strip car more of a midnight burn on the highway or weekend ride. The ARB air locking diff seems like a great idea at a very reasonable price for the setup. simply push a button for seriousness and then push it back when around town. like I said I have read so much about these diffs and gotten scared then happy and then scared again. I thought about going with the ford nine inch due to durability to abuse but it seems like it would be just as time consuming and expensive as putting the 230 in, and i would achieve less handling. I am open to any suggestion and help and dyno numbers would be greatly appreciated as proof for this rear diff hope this is spaced enough not to cause an eye sore thanks

LOL I resurected a dead thread sorry

whoops

disengage* my badAir Locker locking differentials by ARB check these out, i was told they make an application for the r200

the torque is what you need to worry about not hp torque kills=the force pushing your ass into the seat a good option that i am looking into is a line locker for street strip use lock it at the track disingage at the streetlight

so is this a full blown strip or track car or is it still streetable?

ok your the second admin to pop me on my spacing and punctuation I am going through my post and appologizing to everyone just tryin to get it all out there sorry I owe a big one to the other dude I snapped at last night on the vendor forums thanks for the patience

johnnc ok i am working on this punctuation and spacing, admin already got on my butt about this and i lashed back, so i need to go appollogize to him and everyone else on my post. SORRY!!

i think MSA makes a kit for this so it will be a direct replacement and contains better components or black dragon can't remember but i would keep running them through your colum switches

stupid fusible links!!! reccomend rewiring the whole thing, thats what i'm gonna do with my 76 now that its almost bare bones.

isn't this kind of sacreligeous the rx7 and z guys don't get along very well around here but props on the fabrication i don't think i have the patience for that

i was talking about a unmolested flat out production bike only thing i can think of is a busa or that new giant 1400 kawasaki i think it was

what are the production bikes that are runnin 200+ mph with out modification i'm just curious now might eat my words on this one

t65 is not capable of the kind of speed and he would need tape all over that thing and a 200 mph bike would only exist on the salt plains no production bike will do that specially without blowin the rider off and LOVE the custom non handle door panels do you just crawl in and out of the hatch? when this guy posted this crap he had to know what he was getting himself into what a tard

their primer/sealer does a good preservation job till you can get it into a booth no rust has shown up yet

had my 81 shut down in the middle of traffice because of a stupid red fusible link sounds kinda like the same deal check those first before you get crazya nd start ripping crap out that you might need later did that and mow one the headlights goes on and off when i hit the high beams never got it to go back good luck hope you finid your bug

my car gows wings and flys away!!! and its still in restoration and I named it christine so no one can hurt it HA!!! beat that dude

no f'n way hes gonna get that and i've seen viper trannies go for 1,500 rebuilt and ready to go not 16k unreal this guy is way to prideful plus there are way better loking z's goign for less i think hes a tard of some form can't believe hes asking that unreal

chemical blue do they ship or provide pics onlie before ordering thanks

the car is a 76 280z project all original right now but soon to be paerting out and getting rid of what i need and nathan if you pupt a blower motor (from off a boat) electric and put it in line with your intake you can create a very small amount of boost depending on the engine i pupt one on my civic just to play around and i guess abouot a 1-2 lbs of boost but it have to be a high cfm blower motor and you have to rig a switch and modify the whole main intake path but just out of curiousity why ae you posting that here and this was done to a 95 1.5 civic you won't get the biggest smiles in the world because its not a real super charger but anytime you cram more air into the system you create some form of boost or a largerr amount of air in the cumbustion chamber good luck and check out ebay i've seent he motors get up to 400- 800 cfm anyway back to the post its a 76 280z project with a high output 383 stoker that i have to put up against a automatic tranny and need the plate and i'll be able to make the linkage work but must be black and fit in a 76 console thanks and hope someone knows

can't find this thing anywhere i was barely off bid of ebay but haven't been able to fing another one yet please le tme know if any vendors sell this thing or just need it in black and in relatively good condition with no cracks let me know if anyone has one lyinig around or if they know where to get one that looks new thanks guys

yah if you have a 78 your golden on ebay they have every flavor but making these panels don't really look like they would be very hard some carbon board and vynal (never spell that right) and some stitching i'm lookin for a driverside panel for a 76 and run intot he same problems good luck

motorsportauto .com or ebay or google searches

transmission isn't what you should worry about its finding the bellhousing or adapter plate from the engine to the tranny. your dad should know where to find one workign for a tranny shop good luck and congrats on the car i'm goign backa nf forth from auto to manual and haven't quite figured it out yet seems the auto is the best coice just need to find a shifter plater

you will never miss a gear in a auto plus they are cheaper i have been asking this question frequently so scroll down and look for my post tons of info there. also the big question is whats your highest amount of out put you plan on building with this engine torque plays a big key in choosing a manual if your going higher then 500ftlbs then get a richomnd 6speed cost is a little over 3k i'm married and just bought a house so i'm going with the 700r4 i think my 383 should be pushing over 500ftlbs. hope this helps and the senior guys on my post were super helpful i reccomend reading it highly good luck