01vincer6

I had a QTP cutout on my single turbo LS1 and it made it worse. It was nice to have an electric cutout though..

Thats one ugly snake.

Finally had time to work on the car again. I completed the drivers side LCA today. Hopefully I can spend a few more hours in the next day or so to make the other one now that the hard part is done.

The 1st post you said you took the car to get one made. I didnt see anywhere you actually had it done after finding the DS was cracked. Just wanted to make sure you went through with the plan..

Get your loop installed #1 priority. #2 Go Moly or AL to lighten that pig up. Nothing like being robbed power from an overweight driveshaft. AL with help on harmonics and allow some flex. Moly will be lighter and stronger than steel since you can go smaller. But without a loop your just asking for a driveshaft to visit you.

Anyone want to sell their billet rear lca's??

LoL he does have alot.

DSS said the z32 TT outers with chromoly cages will be just fine for up to 1000..

So I picked up some 04 mustang front struts from the parts store. They are close but not going to work. I checked the 05 and newer and they are longer. The 04's are about 2 inches to long. The bracket is the correct width but the top hole is a bit off. I could weld a different bracket onto the strut but the length would still be to long. I am debating on ordering these They are showing a 20" extended height with 14" compressed but also offer it with 14.5" extended and 10.5 compressed. I am going to do some more measuring to get a length at the right ride height. I am looking at qa1 because of the valving and adjustment is way better than illuminas. Pics of mock up..

Just read the dont ask if this wheel fits thread. Hopefully this question does not step on anyones toes. I guess I could just go buy different calipers and different wheels with different spoke patterns until I figure it out myself.

I am using the TTT backing plates and z32 hubs. Hasw anyone tried different calipers/rotors on these backing plates to fit a 15" wheel?

Backing plates are here. Definately overbuilt with quality welds.

Ford IRS knuckles are on hold for now. They are going to cause to much work when I am shooting for Branson Zfest. I went ahead and ordered the T3 plates and strut mounts and will be here Friday.Plans to use an alternative strut setup though for better valving and 2 way adjustment. Hope it works or more ordering from T3 will be in my near future.

Area code shows Ft Lauderdale, FL......................................

Cant wait to see it with the 6" flares!

I was doing a quick search and did not see anything come up. Does anyone know what part numbers they are using on their springs and shocks for the REAR coilovers used on the R230 Backing plate struts? Or are they the same as listed in the FAQ for sectioning for coilovers?

The T3 Plate being welded makes me nervous but I might have to go with it anyway. To remove the diff on mine you can just take the front mount off and the 2 bolts on the back. I almost went with your cover but wanted to be different than you . Hopefully both ideas work great and we see each others cars at the next big meet. I might be modding my rear mount next weekend to move the diff back another 1/2".

Unless you go Delrin busings to prevent flex. I have heard the poly bushings on the front are the problem to the cover breaking and the ears. Everyone that switched to aluminum bushings or delrin had no problems. If your diff is moving up far enough to compress your bushing then you are going to have issues. Dont be scared. Get rid of those poly garbage bushings before you are back to square one.

Changed the plans on using T3 backing plates. I am going to attempt to fit the Ford IRS knuckles to eliminate the need of buying $1500 worth of T3 parts. The top mount for the knuckles will be the most challenging. But its worth a try for these stronger cheaper knuckles.I believe there will be alot more clearance for the wheel now that the suspension will be moved under the car rather than in the wheel well. Handling will probably improve awswell with this new design. Hopefully it works out. If not back to the T3 setup.

I have one from a 1990 Z32TT if you ever come back to the site... Need to sell it.

As soon as i get my backing plates from t3 I will measure for the axles.

From DSS .We have a stub that goes into the 8.8 that will have the Porsche style 108mm CV mount this also uses the same 28 spline on the bar. just make sure when ordering the diff you make sure its a diff for the independent rear. most will say its the same but there not. the independent one has a groove cut for the snap ring like a Cobra. the outer CV for the 300TT will be good for your power. (2) inner subs for the 8.8 (500.00) (2) inner CV's with chromoly cage and boots (79.99 each) (2) custom length bars with 28/28 splines (549.99 a pair) so the set of axles would be about 1210.00 for the pair. Also 75 extra per cage you can get chromoly cages for the 300zxtt outers to give you piece of mind.

I wanted a full bolt in mount for the 8.8 without cutting or drilling using the factory suspension so this can be used with any options out there for the suspension and hubs. Basically just get custom axles to what ever is on the outside (T3, Mod Motorsports, AZCar or factory options..) Front mount to be worked on this weekend. And ordering t3 backing plates today....

L33 out of a 05 Silverado. All aluminum. My "play" engine. Curious to see what it will hold before the lsx376 goes in. Engine/trans installed partially. Still need to trim the engine plate and finish the tranny mount. On to rear end decisions.. Took about a month to decide between the 2... R230 out of the z32tt or 8.8 04 Cobra And it has to be an IRS not an easy solid axle. And the excitment to remove this turd. And I did and lifted the 8.8 in place. 8.8 back mount to be continued....