280Zhunter

I've been told the ring gear and the pinion are matched, the ONLY way you can interchange is with the SAME ratio. The clunk however are you serious about the strap?? I've had 3 Z's and all had the tell-tale clunk, the ONLY fix is a solid differential mount but if the diff is old/worn it could generate some noise. The clunk is caused by the front differential mount rubber going soft. GOOD LUCK!

Hello, was wondering where you bought the Spicer U-joints?? If you look at the stock joints, driveshaft or halfshaft, you should see a plug screwed into 1 corner of the cross(centered). It's so you can unscrew it and put in a zerk fitting to grease the U-Joints after which you remove the fitting and REPLACE the plug for clearance. The Spicer joint fitting is OFFSET and should be installed so it is further away from the flange(towards center of shaft) also orient the fittings so they're 180 deg(half turn) away from each other. The needle bearings in a Spicer joint are also much larger than stock. You could also consider having just the crosses CRYOED to strengthen them. The Spicer joints needed for the halfshafts are (5-1505X), I need just 2 if you could steer me to a source I would appreciate it. THANKS and GOOD LUCK!

Personally I would use a Centerforce Dual Friction. It will handle the power easily and not cause your left leg to cramp on you. You'll be GLAD you did 1st time you get stuck in traffic. REMEMBER, you get what you pay for. Cheap parts are EXACTLY that, cheap, and the clutch is the last place I would try to skimp. GOOD LUCK!

HELLO, I had a Gleason in my last Zcar. I was VERY happy with it. I doubt alot of people who talk crap about them EVER rode in a car with one installed. It DEFINITELY made a difference. I bought 1 of the last 8 Bob Sharp racing had at the time(1987) and was told it was VERY RARE. I had their tranny tech build it with a 3.9 R&P and it only pulled an extra 500-600 RPM at highway speed. I used Mobil 1 gear lube(90/145 I think?? almost 20 yrs ago). I don't know WHY someone said they were NOISY, mine was not AT ALL. I remember racing another Datsun on a bumpy Brooklyn street and my right rear wheel was in a huge puddle of water along the curb and I dusted him. When I looked back he was still sitting at the light trying to figure out how I DIDN't go sideways when I launched it. Took off straight as an arrow and the right wheel didn't slip an inch(as far as I know). Triple carb set up didn't hurt either. Did you get yours 2nd hand or new?? If not new do you know its' history?? I believe they were originally made for 4x4's and adapted to racing applications. Back then Bob Sharp Racing was putting 600HP to it with no failures BUT with an L28 not a torquey SBC. I think the fasteners used to put it together were GRADE 12. I've seen torsens with 4 worm gears, mine has 6. GOOD LUCK with it!

HELLO, connect the white/red wire to + terminal of OHM meter and ground the negative side of the meter. Now cycle the switches that don't work, you should get a reading on the meter, if so the wire should be connected to a power source(20 amp fuse?) on the back of the fuse block. If there is no way to attach the wire to the back of the fuse block I believe it may attach to the LOAD side of the amp meter. Check which terminal is live/HOT by disconnecting one side of the amp meter then test both wires for power. Whichever wire is dead is the side the wire in question should be doubled up on and IF the ring terminal is sized properly for the stud on the amp meter, it is where it belongs. The blower motor,radio and lights are something that the amp meter would monitor. The antenna functions off of the radio. The heater core with the blower motor. If your right brake light is working than the left is probably a bad ground. LMK what happens. GOOD LUCK!

If you're getting spark at ALL the plugs I would say you have an injector problem. They could be leaking for several reasons and the spark plug firing the residue which would cause a rough idle. GOOD LUCK!

I guess you want to see this guys car GO UP IN FLAMES! This is NOT a job for JB weld or ANY epoxy OR rubber fuel line. You can replace the fuel line section BUT it MUST be rated for fuel injection despite what others may think. Fuel injection fuel line is rated to handle the pressure. If it is the metal part of the line it probably would be best to replace the fuel rail or you may be able to have it BRAZED(after removal). You NEED to determine where the leak is 1st, best to remove the feed line for the cold start valve. Buy 2 ft of fuel injection line(bring the metal cold start valve L line with you to size it right) cut a 3" pc and plug(with short bolt)one end and clamp it then reattach it to CS valve feed and clamp it. Now restart the car and check for leaks, make sure the engine gets hot. If no further leak, replace ALL the small sections of fuel line and use NEW clamps. If leak still persists after plugging CS valve feed line PULL the fuel rail and replace it or have it refurbished. If you pull the rail consider replacing the injectors(they're almost IMPOSSIBLE to remove and reuse anyway) you can get an aftermarket set on Ebay for about $170 and they will work fine. GOOD LUCK! Hope you still have the car.

HEllO, I agree with BluDestiny about the ECU. Before you make yourself CRAZY put the PROPER ECU back in the car. The early Z cars only had 2 ECU's I know of but the ZX's seem to have a different ECU for each year they were made. The switch could have been put in as a theft deterent or instead of buying a new relay or the lack of the control pin in the 81 ECU. Are you SURE none of the injectors have been changed?? Are they the original set?? My car the PO had only changed 1 and it ran pretty decent until I noticed the cold start valve leaking. I bought a set of SK? injectors on Ebay for $160 and you can probably find an ECU for about the same. Make sure the numbers match the original 83 ECU, ask the PO if he still has the original or if he copied the numbers off the original. Also make a checklist of everything you do check and the results(feed and return fuel line pressure,resistance of each the injectors/sensors, etc.) If you give up and go with the carbs use the WEBER DGV's due to the high mileage but you will have to change the fuel pump as well so it should be an ABSOLUTE LAST RESORT.