BenJammin

I'll take that to mean 'pan and pickup', but yeah, right there with you, with the pickup I'm into the setup for $460. Beyond that, I had two front sump pans that I was going to somehow frankenstein (with my amateur fab skills) into one rear sump Good answers, keep 'em coming!

I'll take that as your 'threshold of pain' @ $400, anyone else? But again, the question is simply "HOW MUCH WOULD YOU PERSONALLY BE WILLING TO PAY FOR A STOCK RB REAR SUMP PAN?"... not opinions about what else is available, or opinions about what I paid, nor how much you might have gotten one for in the past, or what you think they should go for, or opinions about what others might have paid, etc,etc. The point... for those that don't have one, and need one for your swap, just simply "What would be your personal spending limit on a stock one?" Examples of appropriate answers would be something like " I would never pay more than .75 cents " -or- "$300 would be about my limit before I went custom" -or even - "Screw that, I dropped my whole RB project because of the oil pan availability issue and dropped a SBC into my Z "

I guess I should restate this simply as possible... "What's the most are you willing to pay for a stock rear sump before you say f* it and go another route? "

Just wondering what people's pain point is on getting the stock rear sump? I recently went against my frugal nature and paid $400 for one and I think a little part of me died inside ! IMO, eventually one of these things will happen: 1) Nissan will start making them again, at least for a short period 2) McKinney will finally make his custom pan a reality, with baffles, extra sump volume, etc, price point tbd, but I'm guessing $500-$600 3) More and more individuals will come out with their own custom setups I recently saw someone here trying to get $650 for an oem and almost thru up in my mouth a little. $650, really? At that point you can get a custom one made, or have your front sump modified to work. My point... as I started, what is your personal pain $$$ threshold on the stock rear sump before you just wait until a better option comes along ?

Yes, put me down for one also. -Ben

A belated Happy New Years back to you Mack ! I just now noticed this thread, for all the dealings you've had with people on this board surprised hardly no one took the time to return your greetings (?) - probably just busy.

I remember that car on Ebay. One of the nicest restomods I've ever seen.

With your best Captain Picard impression... "Computer, 1970 240Z, candy apple red "

I'm into my '72 240Z about $12k so far and it's still stripped and on furniture dollies. I want this car to be the best I can make it, so I'm taking my time, collecting choice parts and horsetrading to reduce costs. Being rushed and/or going cheap never makes me happy. Also, I am here and talking to other Z owners constantly picking up ideas and finding out what works and what doesn't so I don't go down dead ends and waste money and energy. But to echo other posters here, you must pick a goal for the vehicle and STICK TO IT! Otherwise, the " while I'm in here's " will nickel and dime you to death. Unfortunately, I know that from experience Lastly, imho there is nothing logical about restoring a Z, it has to be an act of love ( or lust ) ! From what I've seen, one will rarely get their investment back out of them, i.e., old Z's don't bring $30K+ at Barrett Jackson.

That timelapse is one of the baddest things I've ever seen caught on film! Pretty scary if you were on the ground I'm sure.

Kinda goes with the theme. For anyone not familiar, and to overstate the obvious, this is the 'Mini Kiss' band.

If that was in response to my post, I think you missed my point. The poster had essentially slammed everyone here because no buyers wanted to match his price. My retort was addressing his expectations that they should do so, with an unnecessary yet free dose of attempted guilt thrown in.

Did something happen? Did I get kicked off someone's thread? That does it, I'm gonna go cry under the bed!

Now that I have your attention. I was inspired to respond to a post in the classifieds section, but felt it was wrong to keep this on the OP's thread, but I didn't want to forego the message I was trying to convey. My apologies to the OP, but just a point to consider since 'mister 4 posts' here wants to collectively slam the whole board for being a bunch of broke d**ks who don't want to pay for anything. I, and many others here consider this board to be a community. A community of Z lovers who support and help each other thru their experience and willingness to share. To look at this group as a captive audience of people who could/should pay top dollar for everything imho is not the way to truly be part of the community. Those who gladly come here for free advice and guidance on their projects, and then turn around and expect top dollar for everything they want to peddle just don't get it. I consider those with that attitude to be users. Go ahead and get your $2400 for that NOS dash, fine with me, and good luck, but you'll more than likely have to go to Ebay to do it. And like I tried to politely let you know, I've NEVER seen an NOS dash go for more than $2000 on there. Even if you get it from the Ebay community, go back and ask Ebay how to wire an RB25 into the Z, or seek advice on the best Z to buy and see what kind of response you get.

Yeah, sorry about that Mac, I reckon I made too many assumptions about a pan that wasn't even produced yet ! But as far as the stock ZR/RB20 pan on the RB26 block, the mods I assumed that had to be made were always part of the sticky on this thread from Stony (about clearance on the front main bearing caps/'retainers' and oil passage issues) not necessarily all mods directly to the pan itself, but the overall message I got from it that it wasn't necessarily "plug and play". Jeez, all I did here is repeat info from a [respected] sticky and I've had to defend my statements multiple times, damn !

Good, cause your's is definately a NON-sucky ride ! Nice.

And I'm sure 'they' had some fun fitting and welding all those segments ! But about the pic, pretty cool. Quite artistic actually. Expresses a kind of course & straightforward inner personality (and that's my sad attempt at being an art critic )

OT: Your screen name and location appear to be at odds with each other. Seriously? Or is that just some sly ironic trickery?

I guess I could be wrong, but it's right there in the first post of the sticky for RB swaps. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=77962&highlight=rb26+oil+pan "The oil pan and sump I got out of a Japan spec Z-31 rb20det 300zx in a junk yard. the front of the oil pan had to be cut out and lowered to clear the bearing retainers in the 2.6. The block has a spot for a rear pickup but it is not drilled out so I had to use the front port on the 2.6. This meant I had to make a custom oil pickup that went from the front of the motor to the rear. If you use the rb-25 block this is not necessary, in fact everything from the Z-31 is bolt in!!!! " Even if this holds true, probably will not be an issue with a custom pan.

I don't think the McKinney pan (or any RB20/RB25 pan) will work for you on the RB26 block unless you plan on doing more mods to it.

Hey KnuckleDuster (Adam, right? - sorry, terrible with names). This is Ben, I bought the shortened driveshaft from you. Just wanted to comment on the pics, those are great! Professional or another hobby of yours? And to everyone else, I saw this car in person and it IS one sweet ride! Btw, my RB project is on hold due to having my 620 pickup in pieces right now on a KA24DE swap ( I need to work on my ability to focus on one thing at a time ), but I did find the right yoke to go on the driveshaft - for FREE! Fyi, the DET tranny needs the larger one from a Z32 (NA or TT will work). Take care.

Then it doesn't sound like you are 'lost'... just lazy (Smiley face indicates no offense intended - please don't plot my death)

Wtf? They make you register just to view ads on that site? That's cheesy.

I bought some adapters from that same vendor. They serve my purpose (space out my 18" Titan rims on the front of my 620 pickup so the tires don't rub on the frame) But a few points to be aware of: -Make sure you know the thread pitch that will come on the adapters you buy. They may say it's for a particular vehicle, but they are usually inferring just the lug pattern and hub bore size, not the original thread pitch of the lugs you have! Case in point - I got 12mmX1.5 thread pitch when my lugs were 12mmX1.25, so maybe you have nice chrome lug nuts that you won't be able to use anymore and have to buy more. -They are not 'hub centric', ie. the bore on the adapters have enough clearance to ensure they will fit for the application, so they are not fitted per say to the exact dimension of your hub, and much less obviously your wheel bore (I know you are talking about the rear only, just pointing out). -They 'feel' cheap - very light feel to them (I don't know if higher quality aluminum would feel any 'beefier', I'm just saying). Is 6061 aluminum the best? Or even verifiable? Also probably pointing out the obvious -Made in China- so you are getting what you pay for at those prices ! -Peronally, I don't think I would trust them to hold up in a 500hp+ application! Hope this helps.

Uh, I think you'll have to give it more time than that. To get a quality re-producable design and test it will surely take more than 2 weeks! Plus just the time to build, say a dozen, for stock when the mad rush hits. I'd guess at least 2 -3 months, or 1 if that is the ONLY thing they are working on. Also, I would guess as this is coming from Mckinney, it won't be cheap! (well made, yes, cheap, no).