Scottie-GNZ

There are a couple of threads going on related to PCV but I thought I would start a new one to pass on this little tidbit based on some experience and not have it lost in the other threads. Last year I blew a head gasket and the gasket blew at the top into the valley. Before I knew what actually happened, I had put 20# boost into the valley and crankcase. You would be amazed at the places oil finds to escape the engine under that kind of pressure. So, what does that have to do with a PCV? Well, you might be putting boost into your crankcase pass the PCV. That is a BIG hose. I was warned about this on the Buick board and so I went to a parts store and opened up 3 new Purolator PCVs and blew against the check ball and guess what? Everyone one of them leaked. If I could blow by the check ball, then imagine what gets by when a lot of boost hits it and worse, how old and worn is your check ball? So, not only are you losing boost, you are losing it into the crankcase which could be cause of some of those mysterious oil leaks. Pull out that PCV and blow its ball . In the Buick world, one of the vendors sells a replacement unit that is guaranteed not to leak and it is a popular item.

Very, very nice. - Are you going to use the stock wastegates? - What are you doing for support bracing? - Should I be scared?

The engine is the SOHC V-6 turbo and yes I believe it has alum heads because it is very light. I probably do not have the information you are looking for but what I do know is that it was rated at 200hp because Nisan choked it down with the same t3 turbo from the L28T, which was too small to begin with. The stock heads are reported to breathe well. The stock 200hp in a 240SX would make a lively car since it would be about 5-600lbs lighter than the 300ZXT. With a turbo upgrade, efficient I/C, exhaust and proper fuel flow, this would be a nice swap with easy 300hp potential and lots of torque. You are probably right about the mounts. I also do not know if there is any relationship between the previous 200SX and 240SX, but the NA version of the V-6 was available in the 200SX.

FordGuy57, the CV adaptor is made to allow the use of the 280ZXT CV axles to be used in a Z. Because the ZX has a wider track, the CV axles are a tad long for the Z and binds when they are extended into the diff. The adaptor itself is a disc that is CNC-machined with a pocket on the wheel hub side that the Z companion flange fits in and is welded. That welded unit is bolted up to the Z stub axle just like you would bolt up the companion flange. On the diff side of the adaptor, there is a pocket that the CV end fits in, pre-drilled to the CV bolt pattern. The thickness of the adaptor eliminates the binding. You should be able to swap the ZXT companion flange on your stub axle and install the CV axles with no adaptor.

If there is enough interest, I will consider another run of the CV adaptors. It has to be a minimum of 10 pairs and the price (TBD) will be higher than the first batch of $110/pr. Let me know if there is interest out there.

How does 32.5lbs compare to the "normal-sized" batteries in a Z?

The compressor wheel spins at a very high RPM, some as high as 90,000. The pressure it develops (boost) is being forced through the open TB into the engine. When you let off the gas, the TB closes and causes a restriction that reverses the pressure against the compressor. With large turbos and high HP engines, this can have a damaging effect because there is more boost pressure coming back against compressor blades with a larger surface area. In all cases there can be a long term damaging effect. The most obvious effect is that the compressor wheel slows down and needs time to ramp back up to the speed when you get back on the gas. The BOV fits between the TB and the turbo, senses manifold pressure and opens to relieve that reverse pressure. That pressure escaping helps keep the compressor wheel spinning at high speed and the combination of both is what makes that whoooosh sound when vented to the atmosphere. I do not know what the manifold pressure is that the BOV uses for activation, but since you are immediately in vacuum when you let off the gas, I would put the line on the intake. HTH and anyone can chime in and add or correct.

I measured some at the track the other night, so this what I know. - 94+ with disc brakes measured 62.5" from the hat of the rotor. - 94+ measured 69.5" from the outside edge of the tires. It had 245s on, I would guess 8" factory rims. - Early GT (year??) measured 66" from the outside edge of the tires, which exactly what mine measured. It had McCreary G60-15 tires on phone dial wheels. Conclusion, for my car anyway, is that I can use early 8.8 with my existing wheels/tires. I can also use the late rear with a 5.5" BS wheel and slightly narrower tire, which I would be doing with a slick or Quick Time Pro, etc. Will measure a Supra tonight and get over to my buddy's shop where I can see one in the air.

Nope, they are Chevy.

Hard to say where I will be at 7:30. Just park and follow the trail of cars waiting to run up to the finish line. I would say you are a candidate for a K&N-type filter forward of the radiator pulling in cold air.

Orlando Speedworld on SR50E in Bithlo just before the SR50 & SR520 fork. Saturday evening, 5p-11p.

You do not have to run it or take me for a ride. I just want to see the swap. BTW, my car was rescued from a junkyard and yours could not look any worse.

Heinekinns, take heed to what Stony says about an L6 engine. Just take a look under the hood of a Z with the L6 engine, then go to "Members Rides" and look at some of the engine shots with V-8s and V-6s and it will be obvious. The one that blows me away is the top-down shot of John Scott's blown V-6. If the handling in a VG30ET/240SX was bad, it should not have been as a result of the engine. Clint is dead-on when he says that engine is super light and is a monster waiting for someone to remove the shackles. It should weigh no more than the KA it replaced. The GN engine is a Buick 3.8L V-6 turbo that was available in Buick T-Types, Grand Nationals, Grand National X, and Turbo Trans Ams. The 86-87 Buicks and the TTA were intercooled. It is a very compact, lightweight engine, rated at 247HP from the factory but will make 400hp and 500lb-ft of torque with just a turbo upgrade and the normal "turbo tuning". As it was offered in the above cars, it used a TH200R4 4-sp automatic but manual trans have been adapted to it. It is a favorite at the drag strip with the above cars. I have it installed in my Z and the car weighs exactly the same as it did with the L28T it replaced. With a turbo upgrade and tuning, I am about 400RWHP and it is a pussycat around town and gets about 23mpg on the hi-way. Whatever your choice, it will require major fabrication. Do not got carried away by the low cost of any engine you plan to swap into the 240SX. The cost of the engine is a fraction of the overall cost. Another option is to invest the money in turboing the KA24. Lookee here: http://www.sdsefi.com/features/feature2.html [ June 28, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ]

Bring it out to Speedworld Sat evening so those of us that will be there can check it out.

SCCA, not to dispute your argument that the Porshe brakes in question are not real Brembos, but it cannot be disputed that 911s have some of the best brakes in the world. Every time I go from my 911 brakes to my Z brakes I can only wish I had them in my Z and my Z has late ZX calipers/300 ZX rotors in front and full late ZX brakes in the rear with KVR pads. I will, however, definitely agree with you that it is not worth the hassle and you are better off getting a set of your Outlaws.

Is it for the stock wastegate? If so, I can get you one of mine, CNC-machined SS. Scottie

ANOTHER 12-sec hybrid! Congratulations. Post your full time slip so you can get added to the Andy's growing list of quick cars. BTW, nice 60' with "crappy" tires. Yes, it can be done.

There is no kit for the V-6 swap, so how difficult it is depends on your fabrication skills. The approach I have advised others to take is as follows: bolt up the engine and trans with the headers and crossover pipe. Put the trans crossmember on (simple JTR-type that bolts to the floor). Put drivetrain in as far back as it will go leaving room for the DP to run level with the pass side plugs then go down by the firewall. Further back you go is the less chance you have to muck with the steering rod. Check for clearance with the crossover and the end of the T/C and with the crank pulley and the steering rack. Once it looks like it is in the correct setback position, jack up the trans crossmember against the floor. From that point on you might need to do some up/down and maybe side-to-side adjustment of the engine. Once you get the final location, I like to use very thin sheet metal and duct tape and with shears, mock up the motor mount bracket to go between the original Datsun stand and the motor mount or like it was done on my car, between the crossmember and the motor mount. Once you are certain you have a good mockup, take it to a machine shop and have it made. Getting ready to help a buddy put a hot 4.1L V-6 turbo in a 2nd gen RX-7. Here are pics showing my brackets welded onto the crossmember, the engine in place-note the pulley sits right over the crossmember and also a shot of the pass side with the DP in place. HTH. [ June 25, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ] [ June 25, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ]

Jim, you are a riot, but OUCH, the truth hurts. Racnoth, I cannot remember what brand the spoiler is but I believe MSA sells something similar. What Jim is referring to, and why I cannot remember, is the fact that the bodywork on my car was done over 20 yrs ago. One of the reasons why it has held up so long is because the body man used lead instead of bondo. That is also why my 71 Z weighs in at almost 2600lbs w/o driver. The rear hatch alone must weigh 100lbs and even 2 new shocks cannot hold it up. Somewhere in my future I am looking to get a stock or fiberglass hatch with lexan and the same spoiler just riveted on. Should be able to knock of 60-75lbs off my sled.

Stony, congrats. Looks like you really nailed it. Looks like our times are just about even. What tires are you running?

DRAX, nice going. That is what I recommend to anyone who does not have a/c. Slot the piece that bolts to the block for fore/aft adjustment and thread the 90* piece so the sensor has in/out adjustment.

From everything I have heard, it is centerline of the treads.

I just found a site that said the 240Z rear track was 53". Kinda surprised me, so I went out and measured my rear, HARUMPH , from the outer edges of the tires and it was 66"!! With my flares I could easily add another .5" on each side. Could you please take the same measurements on your 'Stang and let me know what you got, what size tires, wheel and BS. The 'Stangs are listed as having a 60" rear track but what is imporatant to me is a measurement to the outer edges. Sounds like a match or maybe just a little extra BS required. Any differences between the 94-on and earlier rears except for brakes?

A true Hybrid. Welcome.

Clint just sent this to me yesterday. http://www.courtesyparts.com/secondtier_nissan-motorsports.html