Scottie-GNZ

What James said. Still having some top-end problems but I do not think it is I/C related. Clint, hopefully you are not concerned about your setup. A 300+hp L28T is a long ways off from moving the volume of air I was trying to push through the NPR. James' point about the heat reduction still is amazing. Despite not being able to move the volume, what it could move was reduced from 300+* at the compressor to a little over 100* at the TB.

I found it odd that a reputable Porsche engine builder would want or have the need to post a statement like that. After all, the customer base of both makes are worlds apart. Well, that accounts for my split personality . Another reason why I love this forum. Not a single response slamming Porsches! Kudos! If this was zcar.com......

I would like to hear some feedback on the comment made in the last sentence on this page. http://www.motormeister.com/suz/911_engines/911_engines.htm

BLKMGK, I agree the HP numbers of those days were high. Just apply your favorite HP formula to any timeslip of those cars. 14.5 @ 98 was fairly typical of that era's 3500lb small block car. By my formula that is 255RWHP.

Here is a quick formula to help determine RPMs when cruising. It requires you to know the diameter of the tire and the final drive. MPH/1000RPM = (tire diam * 2.905) / final drive So 24.5" tire with a 3.54 will yield a tad over 20mph/1000RPM which equates to 3500RPMs at 70mph. That gets old after a couple of miles especially if that is the RPM range for an annoying resonance.

Great news Tom. Remember, you will not get it perfect overnight, so take small steps. Verify those injectors as the SDS fuel map is is built off a base number derived from engine displacement and injector flow.

The A/C-based I/C is a great idea IF you already have A/C. Here is a company that developed one for the turbo Buick cars and the Sy/Ty. http://coolflow.com/prod1.htm

Pete, the alternator to battery wire is 10AWG and no longer than 6'. The fuel pump + is 10AWG directly off the alternator running through a relay mounted in the passenger side toolbox. The relay is triggered by the original fuel pump hot-wire. The fuel pump ground is also 10AWG running directly to the battery. I would consider hi-13 to low 14s good at idle but how do I determine where I am losing it under racing load? Like you said, my main concern is having proper voltage at the pump.

There are 2 cores in discussion here. For the I/C, I believe for what you are doing, the Ford unit is efficient enough, readily available and since it already sits on top of the engine, might work for you with minor mods. The other core is the heat exchanger and by the mere mention of B&M, I assume you are considering a trans cooler and that will not work. Trans cooler flow is too restrictive to be efficient and has little or no extra capacity. I was thinking about a small import radiator. I have never dynoed my car and prefer to use the drag strip timeslip to measure my progress, give me more time to tune rather than a short dyno window and besides, I have more fun at the track . There are several formulas that calculate RWHP based on ET or MPH and weight. Note I said OR. I use one that takes into account the ET & MPH & weight. It might not be the best but by using just that one, I can consistently compare my progress and compare it to other cars unlike comparing HP from different dynos. Having said all of that, with a weight of 2820lbs (w/me) and a best of 11.25 @ 121.6, the formula says 407RWHP and if you use the popular formulas to calculate torque, it says 503 lb/ft. Car has actually best ET of 11.20 and MPH of 122.5.

240Z Turbo and I partnered up to buy 2 A-W cores. Unfortunately, we found out they were not A-W cores and each core individually would not make a good A-A. However, together they would make an awesome A-A which is the one you see posted a couple days ago by 240Z Turbo and I ended up taking his old A-A unit. I still have plans for one when I get over 500hp, whenever that is. Your idea is fine as long as you can get a decent heat exchanger in the system. You might look into the Ford A-W unit to see if it is adaptable or even one from the Sy/TY. IMO, unless you plan on getting a really efficient A-W core, w/o ice, I am not sure you will see enough benefit in street driving to offset the complexity. Where it really shines is at the track when you can fill a reservoir with ice and get the inlet charge below ambient. One thing I had planned to do and you might consider, is to to put a fan on the heat exchanger and wire the system up so that with the engine off, you can run the pump at a low speed with the fan on. This would circulate the liquid through the system, cooling it down and reducing heat soak.

What would be considered a good voltage reading for the system under WOT racing conditions? My voltage at idles varies from 13.6 to 14.2, but lately under a full racing load, I am getting readings of 12.3 to 12.9. My concerns are whether or not I have enough voltage for the fuel pump to run at the max required capacity, for the injectors running at a high duty cycle and for the coil packs. Is this normal voltage for the conditions and why is there such a drop considering the car has no accessories to drain voltage? It has ben suggested that I get a volt booster or an adjustable regulator that will give me 14.8 - 15.0 at ide and around 13.6 under race load. Any comments on this? What are the other folks out there racing seeing?

Racnoth, I know where you are going but I will bet if there is a wrecked ZR-1, us peons could not come close to even knowing about it. Keep in mind also that C-5s have a rear transaxle and I am sure that rules it out, although the though of a complete C5 drivetrain with a shortened driveshaft/tube is intriguing but sounds expensive.

JamieT, installing a solid rear does not necessarily mean the car has to be back-halved. I intend to simply replace the IRS with solid rear without tubbing or changing anything behind the diff. I hope I am not dreaming. [ June 17, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ]

I have both sway bars removed and MOF they are now seeing duty in my buddy's 240Z doing X-cross and getting ready for stepping into ITS. After a lot of experimentation, I found removing both caused extreme squat but the best results with a best 60' of 1.55 on BFG DRs. V8260Z, very impressive. DO you have any pics of your diff setup? I know what MikeKZ did and am impressed with that setup but looking for options. What kind of 60' times did you have with the open diff and were you gripping with both tires off the line? I do not know about anyone else, but anyone that perform like that CANNOT bore me with the detailed specs of their setup.

I have done that mod to my 240Z and it must be 280ZX 2+2 springs.

Too bad. That is the problem with trying to duplicate certain items from one car for another with the various models. Did you ever hear from Melodie? I referred her to you about the NPR plumbing.

Jim, unless you plan on doing some fancy photo editing, try Microsoft Photo Editor, go to IMAGE/RESIZE and drop the percentage down to about 45%.

It is made by NEAPCO, but I do not know the part#. Any good driveline shop will carry it or can get it. I recently had this driveshaft built and they took the part off the shelf.

I used to see the fast Honda drag cars all using a "Fancy" aluminum strip across the rear valance with holes in the strip and valance. Found out that airflow under the car was collecting in the rear valance and acting like a parachute. The stock Z gas tank is wide and close to the valance. Replacing that tank with a fuel cell opens up the possibility of the Z having the same problem as the Honda. I do not have proof or a way to prove it is happening, but it has been on my mind. I will only be in the mid-120s but MikeK, you might want to look into this as a potential aerodynamic trouble spot.

Davo, welcome. Boy, you sure know how to get to the bottom of a hot topic right off the bat Being a 280ZXT, you already have all right pieces in the IRS except the LSD. If the car is primarily a drag car with little street driving, I say weld up the 3.54 and run with that. I am pushing about 500 lb/ft of torque at idle, OK maybe it is not THAT low , launch with a transbrake and use a relief valve to help get instant max boost off the line. Short of a monster BB, that is probably as much abuse as the IRS will get unless you have the wrong setup and get massive wheelspin and wheelhop. To date I have broken the driveshaft and a driver's side CV. The driveshaft had a rear OEM-sized u-joint so that was understandable. Experts say the pass CV is usually the one that breaks, so maybe my breakage was a fluke (I hope). If I was doing your setup, I would make sure I got the correctly matched converter, add a t-brake, add a line-loc, weld up the 3.54, build a 3" driveshaft, tie down the nose of the diff (see my website), stay away from stiff shocks/springs, run 275/50-15 DRs. The BFGs are stickier but do not last very long. I love to spend other peoples money but what I listed is what is working for me. I am seriously considering a solid rear so I can run slicks and put this puppy on its rear bumper . I also need a higher ratio to avoid having to shift in OD and choice of ratios just is not there for me with the IRS.

I saw the Dole TV ads

There is certainly a lot of drag at those speeds, but I think what happened to the Viper, even with its huge displacement, is that the overall ratio of 6th was so high, it caused the engine to fall below the torque curve.

Not hiding, just extremely busy at work. I hate when work gets in the way but I have to earn my pay if I want to play. At least I am not playing musical airports.

Andy, late-20s, huh. Knowing that eyesight is the 2nd thing to go, I assume you are already looking into the little blue pill

The R200 is certainly stronger but the issue of strength has alway been in discussions of supporting a high hp/torque hybrid. This might be a race car but it weighs in less that 2100lbs and although it is or will be putting out 340+hp, it will be in the 9000 RPM range. Such an application has a completely different torque curve and how power is applied.