Scottie-GNZ

You have to act fast!! $2K for entire drivetrain + stuff. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=11762&referrerid=1951

Lone, excellent point. Even a low-compression SBC will still have enough torque to make lag less perceptible. Remember that lag is the difference in torque felt between a turbo motor with no or low boost vs one at high or full boost. This is primarily caused by the engine not moving enough exhaust (yep, power) to turn the turbine wheel fast enough as a result of the turbine wheel being too big (heavy). There are other causes of turbo lag, too much advance at low RPMs and too rich, but those can be tuned out. The best way to avoid or at least minimize it, is by working with the turbo manufacturer to help you configure a turbo that will give crisp response while not sacrificing (too much) top-end power. That, of course, is the principle behind the t3/t04 hybrid. Use the t3 turbine to maintain the crisp response and a t04 compressor to give the top-end. However, many of the L28T folks running the stock turbo know that the low-end response is actually a detriment to performance unless you think wheelspin is cool . Where am I going with this? Guess I am just rambling

I wonder if that thing has ever been run and if it has, why is'nt the paint on the strut towers peeling? Under any kind of load, I bet those headers are GLOWING RED, just like the paint.

This looks like it might have potential for fitting in the Z engine bay. http://hi-techperformance.net/turbosmitty2.jpg

Larry, unless you are just hung up on saving 25-30lbs, there is IMO, no advantage (except a LSD) to trying to swap a Corvette DANA36 3rd member into a Z. The custom halfshaft and stub axles would make the cost too high. The R-200 and the DANA36 are both 200mm and so I do not believe there is any gain there. The R-200 is plenty strong and you would be better off finding someone to make up a thicker CV or finding an OEM that can be adapted.

Thanks. Those kind words served up some inspiration when I went into the garage and looked at the "MESS" on the floor . I have started to take the IRS apart. On the surface it seems like a very expensive swap, BUT, keep in mind that my goal is to not exceed $500 OUT OF POCKET (OOP). Keep the OOP in mind as I detail the expected cost. Because I had what I believe was a successful Z-car IRS setup, I was able to sell it and a 3:36 R-200 for a reasonable price. At least I think the buyer believes it is reasonable . That sale will go a long way to achieving the goal. Before I go into the actual cost, lets consider the problem and the alternatives. I had to have at least a 3:36 or taller to run the expected 125mph trapspeed in 3rd. I also wanted to have the confidence to launch the car harder with more HP and stickier tires to get the 60' down to 1.50. Although a LSD to replace the welded rear was not a must-have, it was nice. Ross has a NISMO 3.36 R&P for $300 (good buy) that would have cost me about $35 to ship, $400 for a LSD if I could find one and $200 to have the R&P swapped to the LSD and setup with new bearings. Out Of Pocket - ~$1000 and I would still have the stock CVs and 280Z stub axles. The other alternative was a solid rear. Selling my IRS would help but the cost of a 9" with the links, coilovers, etc or a 8.8 with stronger axles, links, coilovers, etc is way more than $500 OOP. The cost of a C4 IRS varies wildly from 4-figures like mentioned to as low as $500 as in this eBay sale: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=594583296 I will not say how much I sold my IRS for unless the buyer wants to. I paid "less than" $500 for the C4 IRS with the driveshaft and aluminum torque arm from a close friend. I have decided to narrow the entire unit 3". The listed rear track is 60.4" and the measured width from the outside edges of the tires is 70". The wheels are 16x8.5" with a 32mm offset, so there is ~3" from the inside mount point of the wheel to the outside edge. Add ~.5" for tire pooch for a total of ~3.5" on each side out from the hub. That makes the hub-to-hub measurement ~63". Hope that made some sense . I have 15x8 Weld Wheels but have to go to a 16" because of the big brakes. The 16x8 Weld has a 5.5" BS and with a .5" pooch yields a total of 3" on each side. My Z IRS tire-to-tire was 66" so I need to get the C4 IRS hub-to-hub down to 60", therefore it has to narrowed 3". With me so far? I also have my eye out for any late Z28 16x8s which have anywhere from 45-55mm offset and are cheap. So, on to the cost. If you are building a Z with bigger flares than mine, you do not have to narrow it. I just got a price from the machine shop for making the hangers for the tri-bar and it is $70/pr. With a little sheetmetal trimming, those get welded to the frame rail at the bottom of the strut tower. The halfshafts have to narrowed. I have not priced this yet but basically the u-joint yoke has to be cut off, 1.5" taken out of the tube and rewelded. With new Spicer joints I am estimating $150. The leaf spring has to be narrowed. A Vette shop in Tampa makes custom springs to any length or spring rate for $275 with poly bushings. For $450 you get the spring plus ride height and spring rate adjustability on either side. The lower camber adj bar must be narrowed. Instead of cutting and rewelding cast aluminum, they sell a steel replacement with adj ends, $110/pr. The toe adj rods must be narrowed and I estimate $50 to cut 1.5" off the end and rethread. The lower inside of the inner fenderwell must be cut and a mounting box welded in to mount the suspension links. I need to fab up a way to tie down the front of diff. Will use the combo of a stock Z diff x-member and the big aluminum torque arm that came with the rear. If not, I make it from scratch with 3/8" flat or box. Probably cost me $50. When I am done, $50 to have the rear-end aligned. Have not addressed the driveshaft yet. All welding will be done by my daughter's boyfriend . Add that all up + what I paid for the IRS and subtract what I got for the Z IRS and R-200 and that is my OOP. So, what do I actually get? Taller ratio that I need with a LSD, 100lbs lighter, 11.5" brakes, infinitely adjustable rear suspension, and if I elect to polish it up..... Take a look at the top pic and notice the right side of the diff and a spot on the halfshaft That took 30-secs with a Scotch-Brite. Before you conclude it is too expensive, make sure it is what you need then price out fully the alternatives. Yeah, I know, I am writing the web-page in a post . [ August 27, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ]

I know this is probably too long a post so I promise I will make a quick and dirty page documenting the install. But, here are some shots. I have deceided to narrow the entire unit 3". This is a front view showing the links in their "normal" position. How about the size of those halfshafts? They will need to be narrowed. That arm below the halfshafts is for camber adjustment. It will also needed to be narrowed but will be replaced by a custom-made unit with heim joints, $110/pr. This a rear view again showing the camber adj arm. Above that you see the tranverse, monoleaf, composite spring. It will also need to narrowed but will be replaced by a custom-made spring to my specs with an trick setup to adjust ride height and spring rate on either side, $450. Above the spring you see the toe-in/out adj rods. The will also be narrowed (cut and rethreaded). This shows the IRS jacked up in position. The axles are not connected so everything is hanging low. The aluminum driveshaft is on the floor. Here is a view looking through the hole that was the spare tire well. Note that the triangulated mount bar is up against the horizantal frame rail. It also servers as the diff cover. Here you get a closer look at the toe adj rods and the leaf spring. Here is a drivers side wheelwell view. The end of triangulated mount bar ends up just below the well for the strut, so the hangar will be welded there. The shocks end up just below the frame rail next to where the brake line bracket is. The link is hanging low in this pic but it must be swung up so the bottom inside of the inner wheel fenderwell needs to be trimmed and a mount point welded up for it. Brakes need to be cleaned up but they are 11.5". I have the hangars mocked up and will get that to the machine shop tomorrow. STAY TUNED [ August 26, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ]

quote Brad-ManQ45, I am curious to know exactly what you mean by that statement, what is your definition of small and what small turbo motor motor have you driven that gave that effect?

Datto, couple of months ago I posted a pic of a TT Tundra-powered Celica that will be assaulting the drag strips soon. Here is a little more info on that car. They are shooting for 16-1800hp http://www.divisionone.org/inside/bulldog/bulldog.html

Jim, Tim is dead on about the TV cable adjustment. here is an excerpt from the Buick forum: Theory of Operation The T.V. cable used on the 200-4R transmission controls line pressure, shift point, shift feel, part throttle downshifts and detent downshifts. The T.V. cable operates the throttle valve lever and bracket assembly inside the valve body. The Throttle Valve Lever and Bracket Assembly serve two basic functions: -To transfer the throttle lever movement to the T.V. plunger in the control valve assembly. This causes T.V. pressure and line pressure to increase according to engine throttle openings and controls part throttle and detent downshifts. -To prevent the transmission from operating at low (idle) pressures, if the T.V. cable should break or become disconnected. If the cable is not connected or broken, the T.V. lifter rod will not move from its normal position which holds the T.V. exhaust check ball off its seat. The T.V. lifter rod will drop down to allow the T.V. exhaust ball to seat only if the cable is broken, disconnected or out of adjustment. With the transmission pan removed, pull down on the T.V. exhaust valve lifter rod and the spring should return to rod to its normal up position. If the throttle valve lever and bracket assembly or lifter rod binds or sticks so that the T.V. lifter rod cannot lift the exhaust ball off its seat, high line pressures and delayed upshifts will result (Note that this is what we will try to accomplish, tighter shifts). The T.V. lifter rod must not be bent or it will not function correctly. Adjustment Procedure On the driver's side of the intake plenum is a bracket holding 2 or 3 cables:the Accelerator cable, T.V. cable, and if you have Cruise, the cruise controlcable. The T.V. cable has "ridges" on the cable housing and routes behind and down the engine to the passenger side of the transmission. Note the metal Brass colored, "D-shaped" tab in the center of the bracket, this is the readjustment tab. Take note of the T.V. cable position (number of exposed ridges). With the engine off, depress and hold in the readjustment tab. Pull the cable housing towards the firewall 3 or 4 clicks and release the readjustment tab. While you watch the cable housing travel, have someone push the accelerator pedal to WOT. (Yes you can rotate the throttle lever by hand but by using someone's foot you are duplicating the actual throttle movement achieved while driving the car.) The cable housing will "ratchet" forward towards the radiator. This is the "GM recommended" setting. If your T.V. cable was out of adjustment, the number of exposed ridges will have changed. As a benefit to those desiring firmer shifts, you can attain higher shift points by moving the T.V. cable back towards the firewall one more "click". Try this and see if the cable housing will not ratchet back out when you press the accelerator to WOT. A worn out cable housing or adjustment mechanism may only let you go to the "GM recommended" setting. You should also know that by delaying shifts on a transmission whose clutches are already "shot", this will accelerate the deterioration of the transmission.

Anyone using this trans in a non-computer controlled car? How did you resolve the OD problem? BTW, asking for a friend, so no comments, PLEASE

This might be old news but I find this picture a good one for pointing out the difference in the 5.0 Vs the DOHC when condering a hybrid Z. 4.6L DOHC - 5.0 Comparo

Here is another source of info for hopping up a N-Star. http://www.mechtech-ms.com/html/body_nst_system.html

A 360cid block with 340 heads and a cam is the ticket. Remember, the 340 heads have 2.02 intakes just like the old LT-1.

Jimbo. OY!! You back?

I still do not have the IRS. We went down to Miami 2 weeks ago and brought the car up but cannot pull the IRS until the person buying the shell has a final resting place where I can pull it. Once I pull it, the car is not going anywhere for a while. Hopefully I will have it this weekend.

Scotty, do not get caught up in comparing how your car runs with others on this forum. Focus on maximizing what you have and can afford. If I were you, I would not run anymore boost but instead focus on fixing that lean condition and finding a pair of DRs. You can improve the ET w/o trying to squeeze more boost out of it.

Andy, sorry to hear about your breakage. The stories vary wildly with how much abuse the R-200 can take. I can testify to hard launches with almost 500lb/ft of torque and 275 DRs and others have had breakage with the L6. Remember, when you install a used R-200, it could be as much as 26 yrs old with an unknown history. It is the luck of the draw. If you find one that was not abused (more from lack of maintenance) it can take a lot. However, as previously stated, open-diff wheelspins and wheelhop will contribute to their demise.

Terry, I am very interested in any info you can provide on putting Lexan in the rear hatch.

Scotty, cheapest, simplest option I know for an inj upgrade is the SVO 36# injs. I used those on my L28T and they should be good for up to 350RWHP. Go to the SVO or Merkur XR4Ti forums and post a wanted ad for injs. Make sure they are the 36# injs with he brown top. I have a how-to on my L28T page that shows how to make them fit the stock fuel rail. I have a pair of 15x8 wheels but they are 3.5" BS. If anyone wants them please get them out of my garage as I keep tripping over them and will never use them. They are mounted up with Firestone Firehawks 215/60s. If someone local wants them, come make me a ridiculous offer.

Zman, you have 2 choices. Since my car is down, I can pull it off and send it to you and you can have a machine shop make you one or I can have a local machine shop make one. I have no idea what it would cost. If I send it to you, I need to be assured I will get it back in a timely manner.

Way to go Scotty. Give us the details of the timeslip and what you did differently from the last trip to the track.

Dan0myte, scroll up on the thread and see my post that details the cost. Since there are no kits, having someone do the fabrication will add to the cost unless they are charging you a very reasonable price.

??? Tell me what you need.

Hey BLKMGK, I resemble that remark as my car will soon have larger rear brakes.