Scottie-GNZ

Scotty, I really hope you do not take this post the wrong way, but I would like to see you slow down and understand and heed the advice being given. I just do not want to see you destroy your engine. Here is some advice that was given when you first queried about crushing the FPR. quote: Yes, I have done it and it is a fairly common no-buck mod in the DSM world. HOWEVER, there are lots of caveats: - Do you know how much of an increase you want and what it will get you? - If you go too far, there is no going back - Do you have an accurate fuel pressure gauge? Do not attempt to do it w/o one - If you are running the stock pump, make sure you do not exceed its capacity. I forgot what it is but TimZ posted the number recently so do a search - Do it in small increments. You might have to de-install/install the FPR a couple of times until you get it where you want it - If you go too far there is no going back. In case you do not know the formula for calculating the flow rate, here it is: Divide the new pressure by the old pressure, take the square root of that number and multiply it by the inj flow. Of course you must know the inj flow rate and what pressure it was rated at. E.g., I believe (could be wrong) that the stock turbo inj is rated at 260cc @ 36#. If you raised the fuel pressure to 42#, the injs are then capable of flowing 280+cc. Make sure you set the fuel pressure at idle with the vacuum line off. Go find TimZ's post and make sure the new pressure + max boost does not exceed the number he specified. REMEMBER, IF YOU ARE RUNNING STOCK INJS, THEY COULD BE AS MUCH AS 20 YRS OLD. Good luck. Anyone who has asked me for advice about tuning an EFI/Turbo setup for more power will tell you that my advice is probably somewhat annoying because of my emphasis on understanding the basic principles and being very, very patient. The HP is there and it will eventually come but one wrong step could be fatal. Good Luck.

Did you actually check to see if the 79 2+2 had a 5-spd instead of a 4-spd? If it is a 4-spd, then it has the ultra-rare 3.36 R-200.

quote Not sure why you would make a statement like that. I probably cannot speak for all the old farts on this forum , but I personally bought mine from Nissan after probably spending the same amount of money in gas and tolls scrounging every junkyard in Central Florida. Wont even mention time and busted knuckles to jack up rusted-out Maximas with flats to check the brakes. My advice to everyone looking to do this swap is to spend the $90-100 and get them from Nissan and not waste your time searching junkyards for them. I have yet to hear someone pin down the exact year Maxima. I sometimes think folks do not understand and appreciate how inexpensive it is for us to do a disc brake conversion compared to other cars. [ August 09, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ]

Go search the web for details on the buildup used for the IRL cars and the older V-8 powered Nissan off-road trucks.

Jason, cannot imagine that a 700R4 TV cable is much different from a 200R4, so check out this tech article and hope it helps. http://gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/tvcable.html

Bogart, welcome! Here is a good place to start. http://grannypotts.freeservers.com/Times.html Super Dan and Andy, we need to put a link for this somewhere on the Main Page. I will let the V-8ers that have a similiar setup answer about the performance they are getting. As for the stock rear holding up, I do not know, we have not discussed that topic much . Use the Search feature in the Drivetrain section to get info on R-200 diff and Ford 8.8 swap. Hope you some spare time and pack a lunch .

Dan, not to be a doubter, but I doubt a V-8 Z could have that good a F-R weight distribution. Aluminum heads and battery in the trunk would go a long to helping though. Where you been. Have not seen you and the car in a while. I am planning on going down to Moroso this Sunday for a big import meet. You up for it?

Owen, 200hp from a SR20DET is probably not too hard if you know how to detune it .

Excellent point. That is why the drive-on scales are better. Most junkyards that crush cars or sell metal have scales, but the trucking and moving companies are your best bet.

I use a big drive-on scale at a junkyard. Sounds like the scale you are referring to should work.

Just for you, Evan. http://www.sportmachines.com/magrack/truck_sport_utility_2-93_1.html

Paragod, the last thing I want to do is start (err, continue) a political discussion but I have to make some comments about your post. I disagree strongly with everything you say except the "Buy USA" part. However, the beauty of the USA and this forum is that we are all entitled to our opinions. "It is a luxobarge motor" What does the car that an engine gets placed in have to do with the engine itself? Let's see: Hemi in the Chrysler 300; Quad-cam V-8s in a Tundra, Q45 and LS4xx; the original Nissan V-8 in the Princess; the Aurora, etc. "What happened to the engineering capability of the US?" Ask the bean-counters. "how many engineering majors graduating these days are US citizens" Are we forgetting the foundation this country was built on? If the majority are not US citizens, what is that saying about the US citizens? "Why did GM build such a piece of crap?" One of the proof's of a great engine design is that race teams are willing to use it as the basis for their powerplant. The Northstar is on its way to becoming a great race engine. The rest in that list speak for themselves. BTW, Toyota/HKS is about ready to unleash a 1,500+hp Tundra-powered Celica on the import drag racing world. Do you think that team said, "Nah, lets not use that POS truck motor?". Geesh, how could I forget the Buick 3.8L Turbo? Jamie, you have a hell of a project on your hands and if I had one in my hands I would be doing the same thing. I love an engineering challenge. To give you some encouragement, here is a NS being trial fitted in a Miata frame. Should make your project a piece of cake Apologize if the this post was inappropriate. [ August 03, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ] [ August 03, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ]

Those tires are 27" tall!!! Unless you have a wheel with the proper backspacing, they are propably going to rub the spring perch.

Ashe, I would be more than happy to help you understand the pros/cons of all your options having done 2 V-8s (Scarab and JTR), a triple-Mikuni 2.8L, an L28T and the GN.

Ashe, if you are contemplating an engine swap, you are more than welcome to come look mine over. Drop me an email and lets get together this weekend.

Jim, couple of weeks ago we put an LT1 starter on my buddy's built-up 4.3 Buick turbo (4.1L + .040) and it spins that puppy over with ease. I am getting one and can get you one "inexpensively" if you interested. It is 10lbs lighter that a normal GM starter. E-mail me.

Mike, good luck in your project. My one comment is that despite expressing a need to do a low-budget project, you recognize the need to upgrade the brakes and suspension and even mentioned them first. You have gotten some great advice and I will chip in that my last V-8 was a mild, inexpensive 350 with a T5 and it held up fine in "normal" street driving.

Forgot to mention that I put my car on a scale before I pulled it apart. Since I intend to change the Vette spring, I needed to know what the rear weight was in order to get the correct spring rate. Total Weight - 2,620 lbs Front - 1,380 lbs, 52.7% Rear - 1,240 lbs, 47.3% Not sure how to factor in my 220lbs, but since it is just forward of the rear axle it should be mostly on the rear. If I put it all on the rear it is 48.6% & 51.4%. Not sure how that compares to a stock Z, but any car that has better than 50-50 with the driver is great IMO. Should be interesting when I get the Vette IRS in.

Hey 383 240Z, quote Not sure I understood what you are saying there. Do you already have a Vette IRS in your Z?

Very well done.

Hopefully this pic will answer the question. This is (was) my drivers side strut with the CV adaptor installed with 82-83ZX disc brakes.

Jeromio, in your reference to a CV swap, why do you distinguish a 240Z from a 280Z?

The CV adaptor that I previously offered as a group buy will be made again. With the formation of Ross' new company, Modern Motorsports, he and I have discussed it and agree overall it will be simpler for everyone if Modern Motorsports takes on the task of manufacturing and selling the adaptor. The previous group purchase was a huge effort for me and Ross has already setup to assume all tasks involved. The price of the adaptor will be $145/pr as I previously stated. I consider Mike Kelly's description of the adaptor as "a work of art" to be the highest compliment, coming someone who is a perfectionist and expects nothing but the best for his monster project. It probably does not mean much to anyone, but I actually "lost" money on the last group purchase and could definitely not offer that price again. Ross is investigating "options" for those who want the welding of the companion flange done or want to purchase 280Z stub axles with the package. As those details are worked out they will be announced. Hopefully all the questions and confusion about the adaptors are behind us and we can move forward with helping make HybridZs not be afraid to put the hammer down. This assumes, of course, that you have decent tires . Expect to hear from Ross on the details about how we get this off the ground.

I cannot see the pics. Is it just me?

For those that are looking at the Ford 8.8 IRS as an alternative, I have some not too good news. I was at the junkyard yesterday and they had a Thunderbird SC with the IRS. $250, $300 if they pulled it. Out of curiosity I measured it and it is 63" hub-to-hub, which is way too wide for a standard bodied Z-car.