Scottie-GNZ

We have the OK to use the spreadsheet as we see fit. The developer's name is on the bottom of the spreadsheet and he would appreciate if we leave it there. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Hey, I resemble that remark This is the log from the 11.20 run. Let me help clarify what you are looking at. I am displaying 5 parameters, labeled in the top-left corner. The vertical line is a point in time and that point is on the bottom of page - 2.85 secs and 154' into the run. The value of each parameter at this point is on the top-right corner, so the Speed=61, RPMs=5125 at the top of 2nd gear, etc. The numbers on the right of the box is the value range of that parameter. The large font on the right are critical parameters that are always displayed and do not correspond to the "box" next to it. There are 14 displayable parameters and by continually pressing the 1 key e.g., I can make the top box display any of the 14. At the bottom-right of the screen you see the update rate=18.2 frames per sec and pressing the L/R arrow keys move the vertical line 1 frame at a time. With an 11.2 sec 1/4-mile, do the math and you can see how many frames I have to look at. So, at this point in time, the car is doing 61mph and it took 2.85 secs and 154. There is so much info there I could write a book on just this pass, but I will touch on a few. Notice how fast the RPMs ramp up in 1st and how quickly the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts happen. If I had bad wheelspin or tranny slippage, it could be seen in how the RPMs ramp up. Something nasty happened to the fueling at the top of 1st and the O2s went wacky and spiked down to about 550 and the chip reacted by backing out some timing. I showed this to the chip maker and he said "oh yeah, I can fix that". Oookay. You will also notice that the O2s are at 839 and there are some points where it is even higher, but as load increased, it started coming down. That is what I am referring to when I say it ran rich. My target O2s is 780mV at the top of 3rd. About halfway through 3rd the RPMs flatten out for a moment and that is me locking up the converter, a little late. Now for the top-end problem. Notice the nice sharp angles on the RPM bar at the first 2 shift points, then notice that the 3-4 has a hump and the RPMs are a little higher. I lock the converter by pressing and holding a button on the shift knob (yes Jim, the red eject button). That drops the RPMs a tad and I spend more time in 3rd building boost. What I am trying to do is make the 3-4 shift and unlock the converter at the same time to raise the RPMs and limit the RPM drop but the shifter hung up and I released the button. This caused the RPMs to shoot up to 5650 and the chip backed out a massive amount of timing, 9.5* to be exact. The impact can be seen in the Speed as the car just died and stopped accelerating which is why the MPH was only 117.95. The same information can be displayed in a Text and a Dial mode. In those modes all the parameters are displayed and the Dial mode looks like a dash where the key parameters are in a dial guage. Lots more info there but harder to read as you scroll the frames. For some reason I cannot do Print Screen on those. It is hard to say just how much quicker the car could have gone if it was a "perfect" run, but I can tell you when the chip backs out timing you can feel it. Enjoy. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ [This message has been edited by Scottie-GNZ (edited March 27, 2001).]

They are turbo-centric and have a cute motto: "When cubes just are't enough..." As a turbo-guy, I get a kick out of that. One or 2 Zs in there including a feature on a 240Z/RB26 http://www.fullboost.com.au/index.html ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Ron, I love playing with other people's numbers, especially yours . 1.17 That guy in the cannon has nothing on you. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Whoa, Guys. I hope I do not bust anyone's bubble but 370hp from 15# boost? Flywheel HP, yes, but I do not believe the stock components flow well enough to make 370RWHP from just 15# boost. I believe it is going to take headwork, cam, big turbo and a programmable system. This, of course, is my opinion and others can chime in. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

You know we have gone totally insane when we complain about our sleds not being able to run a 0-60 quicker than 3 secs Anyone consider this a neat enough "gadget" to make available to others on the forum? If so, let me know and I will ask the originator and make sure he gets credit. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Someone on the Buick forum developed a spreadsheet with some calculus to derive a 0-60 time from your timeslip. It uses the 60', 330', 1/8-mile and 1000' times. my datalogger showed my 0-60 to be 2.83 and I plugged the numbers in this spreadsheet and it spit out......2.83 My numbers were: 1.553, 4.575, 7.111, 9.314 http://www.geocities.com/trbo231/index.htm ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Spoke with B&M today and the tech talked me into the Pro-Ratchet despite it not having a lighted indicator. He did not (obviously) say anything negative about the Hammer, Quicksilver or Megashifter, he just stated, like the Pro-Stick, the Pro-Ratchet is made for racing and is indestructable. He also said there is no mistaking it being in 1st. The final selling point was that the mounting plate was similar to the Pro-Stick so I could probably end up reusing the same bolt holes and not have to reposition the cable. If it is anything like the Pro-stick in terms of durability and preciseness, I will be happy. With my carparts.com coupon, I am looking at $142 + shipping. Thanks for all the responses. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

I need the turbo to be efficient up to 20psi and be able to support up to 350 horses and it needs to be able to spool fairly quickly....that's it. My advice to you is to not ask this forum. You do not need to know anything about impellers, trim, etc. Just tell Majestic exactly what you said above and let them spec out the turbo for you. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Any of you guys have pics you can post? ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Thanks for the response guys. From an appearance standpoint, I prefer the Quicksilver. Typically when a manufacturer has several similar items, the highest priced one is usually the best quality. However, siince the hammer has that special handle and a leather boot, I wonder if that is what makes it more expensive than the others or are the mechanicals different/better. I too am concerned about the size of the big Hammer cover since the 71 console is narrow and it will probably come close to the fuse box. I engage my transbrake by physically placing the shifter in 1st, and as I understand it, that puts the trans in 1st and reverse at the same time. I get the car moving by simply pushing the shifter into 2nd. The reason why I want to be certain it is in 1st is because once I trip the 2nd yellow, I yank it in 1st, get off the brake and romp on the go-pedal to bring up the boost. If it is not in 1st, I obviosly roll and trip the red light. Because the 1-2 and 2-3 happens so fast, right now I push the shifter into 2nd and go to 3rd immediately and let the trans auto shift at WOT. The Pro-Stick requires gripping the handle and releasing it AFTER you shift to 3rd. With the ratchet I will just have to tap it twice. I am sure the wife will be a lot more comfortable with that also. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Anyone out have a ratchet shifter or experience with them? I would like to get your experiences and honest opinion to help me decide which to get. I am leaning towards the B&M Hammer but the Megashifter, Quicksilver and Pro Ratchet all look good. It is absolutely critical for my setup that the indicator be clearly legible. Because of my transbrake, I cannot put the trans in 1st gear if the car is in motion and when I do put the shifter in 1st I must be instantly sure it is in 1st. TIA. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Gale Banks is building some special project cars. One is a 2500hp Mercedes-Benz Pro-Mod car (my favorite drag racing class). The body was made by some ex-Lockheed (yeah!) Skunk Works weenies and weighs a total of 28lbs!!!! Every removable part is titanium. The other is one that MikeK find interesting, especially how HP they are building to push a Camaro over 200mph. http://www.galebanks.com/HighPerformance.cfm ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

The most common and effective way to fuel a turbo is with EFI. The only carbed turbo kits I know of for a Z is with a Holley 4-bbl and a single SU. Take my word for it, despite it being done on other L6s, BMW and Jag comes to mind, you do not want to do it. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

I have them and they were the ones on the car when it had drums. They are a little long and have a loop when mounted. Here is pic of the caliper resting on top of the Maxima bracket. When mounted, the caliper faces forward and hopefully you visualize what it might look like. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

If this is an option list for members considering upgrades, I applaud you guys. I would like to add a couple but of course the evaluation is IMO and not scientific. Front Brakes - 82-83 ZX calipers with 84 vented rotors. With KVR pads, they outperm the Toyotas/stock rotor, IMO. Booster/MC Upgrade - Because I have an automatic and eliminated the stock throttle linkage, I went with the ZX 2+2 monster booster with the early ZX M/C. If I have it right, 240Z-260Z/manual can use the 280Z booster, 280Z/manual and all automatics can use the 280Z 2+2 booster. Rear Spring Mod - I did the JTR rear spring perch mod. I moved the perch up and cut down 280ZX 2+2 springs. I know some think it is sacrilige, but it works. My spring perch now clears a 26" tall tire, so a shorter tire can use a wheel with more backspacing. HTH ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

I am not sure what you mean by "pressure and drilling gas caps". The carb setup is sexy and if you plan on going turbo, there are lots of folks (zcar.com) who will pay big bucks to help fund the turbo project. As for going turbo, do not run the 240 heads. You can run a n/a block with turbo heads but not the other way. My advise would be to sell the entire engine setup and buy a complete turbo setup, or better yet, a running donor car. Of course, the V-8 is always an option as long as you understand what you are getting into. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Terry hit the nail on the head. If it is functional, go for it. It is one thing to look ricey and another to be able to back it up. My problem with "ricers" is not the look, necessarily, but the attitude and ignorance. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

PTURBOZ, welcome, I have been searching for you for a long time. I do not have any regrets about my current setup, but if I had found you when I was comtemplating the swap, I probably would have gone the VG30T route. What mods have you done to get that power? ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

RickB is knowledgable with Buicks also and can chime in. 87 GN engine complete $2000 If complete means everything from the TB to the oil pan, plus the headers, crossover, turbo and MAF, it is not a bad price but a little high. If it includes the ECM and harness, thats a little better. 87 GN rebuilt short block (.030 forged pistons ,poston cam ect.) $1400 Note that it says shortblock, so I assume no heads, intake, exhaust, turbo, etc. You can go a long way with the stock cam so I wonder just what the intention was with this. 87 GN transmission(BRF coded) $650 BRF is the code for the turbo 200R4. Good price if it includes the converter and flywheel. Do not accept any converter but the one made for the turbo, coded D5. 87 Rebuilt transmission with low miles(by Cotton Perf.) $1000 Jack Cotton is one of the most reputable Buick vendors and if it has a converter, I trust him. are these prices any good or should I keep looking? Personally I would look for a complete matched drivetrain and target $2500. Is Scarp still listening? Wonder what happened to the wrecked GN he bought? ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

At the track I am currently at 20# and working my way up to 24#. Never had the car dyno'ed and even if I did , that number could not be used to compare against another unless it was on the same dyno. If I can get the mixture perfect, I estimate 400RWHP at 20# and looking for 440 at 24#. IMO, the only way you can truly compare HP is if the cars are on the same dyno or, the way I like it, plug the ET, MPH and weight into a formula. How much boost you can run on the street depends on the turbo, engine setup, I/C, timing, octane and how well the car is tuned. There is no magic number, let the a/f meter or EGT tell you. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

The previous owner claimed about 85K when I got it. The engine was untouched but the trans was beefed up and a 2800 stall added. I ran it untouched until I blew a head gasket. At that point I tore it apart and there were some minor stress cracks on the piston skirts so I rebuilt it new .020-over Federal Mogul hyper pistons (sacrilige!), rings, bearings and added ARP rod bolts and head studs. Heads are bone stock but with new springs. Total investment, a little over $800. I never check the mileage around town because I never fill up the tank with pump gas. Too much trouble to drain it when preparing for the track, so I put just enough gas so I only have to drain 5 or so gallons. Last time I checked the mileage was on a 400-mile roundtrip cruising on the freeway at 75-80 and it got about 24mpg. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Jared, I was lucky to find my GN drivetrain from a Z owner who was looking for a complete L28T drivetrain with all the components I had. We made an even swap, with him also getting the SDS and NPR. That person is the machinist who made the CV adaptors. If you are looking for one, the best source is the classifieds on the 2 main turbo Buick forums. Expect to pay about $2500 and more if it has mods. That sounds like a lot until you compare it with what you would have to spend on a SBC or 5.0 to match the GN performance. The beauty of the GN is that if you set it up with a good I/C and exhaust system, all it takes to make another 75-100 HP, is a race chip, race gas, turn up the boost and some careful tuning. www.turbobuick.com www.turbobuicks.com If you are looking for turbo Buick info that will make your head spin, go to: www.gnttype.org ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

For some reason I cannot open the post with the topic of "Attn: Scottie". I get a message saying the page cannot be found. I see it already had 1 reply, so please repost if you want me to see it. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Header wrap is probably the most efective way to reduce underhood temps but it does have the cons stated. What was not stated is that it can be used on SS without concerns about rust and cracking. As for it soaking up oil, I can testify to that. Couple months ago I blew a head gasket on the top of the head and put 20# boost in the crankcase on the top end for a couple of seconds before I realized what happened. Most of the oil was forced out of the front seal and made a freaking, scary mess. The wrap was soaked with oil. I used 2 cans of brake cleaner and soaked the wrap while it was still on the DP until it was dripping pretty good. I then used a lot of paper towels to help dry it out. After restarting the car, it make a stink but eventually burned off. Just thought I would drop that tidbit in case anyone had wrap with oil and thought it was done for. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ