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Scottie-GNZ

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Everything posted by Scottie-GNZ

  1. JohnC, what dry sump system requires such a procedure? Oil is the lifeblood of a 911 and a dry sump is standard with a total of about 13qts. When I drain the tank I get out 10.5+ but it has an internal oil cooler, and another cooler behind the pass headlight and all fed by massive lines. That said, when cold, I crank it right up and give it about 2 mins to warm up before driving off. I would guess mine has at least 175K miles on an untouched bottom end. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  2. I am back. The post Ron referred to is the one that will go down in the annals of hybridz history. Grab a beer (make that that a case) as you read this post. Every newbie should be initiated by having to read this one. http://24.4.88.29/ubb/Forum13/HTML/000080.html ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  3. Hey Don, welcome! One of these days we need to swap notes on the SBC-914 swap. I did a Chevy 302 a while back and that is the swap I am most proud of. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  4. Just found out on the turbobuick board that Greg had an "incident". The shaft on the turbine side of his turbo snapped and the impeller WENT THROUGH the cast iron turbine housing and put a hole in his hood. That precious engine is undamaged and now he has the excuse for upgrading to a T-88 turbo ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  5. RickB, I heard from Greg and I think he is having too much fun with the StageII to bother with the Z. I calculated 764RWHP on the 10.06 run and he says he plans to go for it at the Texas meet with slicks and 25# boost. That should put him in the 850hp range but since he only has a 6-pt cage and no license, he gets one pass befor they kick him off. He also mentioned it needed a bigger turbo ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  6. He currently has a turbo shortblock with the original pistons but fresh rings and bearings. Prior to that he did run a NA shortblock with a turbo head before it break a couple of rings. He saves every tiimeslip and counted 122 on the NA block and probably as much abuse on street. The CFDF is 240mm. When I first did my L28T setup, I used a lightened flywheel and 225mm CFDF. It did not last long once I started cranking the boost up. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  7. A 360 shortblock with a set of 340 2.02 heads is a killer motor. It would take a stout 383 to match it. Can you imagine popping a Z hood and seeing one with a 6-pack? ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ [This message has been edited by Scottie-GNZ (edited March 15, 2001).]
  8. I know that IBM is an expensive SOB, but I do not want anyone to think I paid for it. I telecommute a couple of days and travel often and that is what the company gave to me. I have an older 486 (my apologies to those who still thinks a 486 rox ) that I use in the car. My datalogger is MS-DOS based so I do not need much. If I was buying a laptop, I would do exactly what BLKMGK did. It is hard to match the price that Walmart, et al can offer. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  9. Havok, if you are willing to spend that much, do not buy either of those. Contact a turbo manufacturer, tell them exactly what you have, your driving habits and performance goals and let them configure one for you. I am certain it will be t3/t04, cost no more or maybe less and designed for your setup. BTW, you did not mention anything about your fuel system, so I hope you already upgraded or plan to and know how to recalibrate the AFM. Good luck. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  10. If it makes you feel any better, I am facing the same problem. I am running a 3.54 with 275/50-15 DRs (26") and at 5300RPMs in 3rd, I get 114mph and therefore have to shift into o/d. Problem is that my o/d is .67:1 and it drops me down to about 3700 causing the chip to switch to a different mode where it advances the timing and leans out the fuel until I get back above 4000. I need to go through the traps in 3rd and need a 3.36 AND taller tire to make it pass 120mph. You have such a short tire to begin with, giving you up to 2" in diameter to play with. A pair of 225/50-15 would get you an inch in diameter and you could throw them on some Swastikas or something cheap. My 26" tire already gives me more of a rake than I want. I need to get some more solid runs logged then work with the chip maker to see if there is anything he can do below 4000 in o/d. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  11. Might as well tell what else I know about the car: - Nissan 5-spd - CFDF clutch - 15x7 Autobahns, 225/50-15 - 3.70 LSD, halfshafts with solid u-joints - We have the same brakes. 82-83 F calipers with 84 vented rotors and 82-83 calipers and rotors - Stock fuel tank with rear sump, -8 and 1/2" line, Pierburg pump - Complete strip-down body restoration. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  12. Does anyone have any details on the Jeep Dana 44? Width, standard ratio, does it have a LSD/Locker? With my luck it will have probably have a 4.88:1. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  13. DemonZ, I do not know the specifics of the turbo. He worked with Jim Wolf to come up with the turbo configuration. If you saw it, you would not be impressed, but obviously it is spec'd perfectly for his setup. My advice to anyone considering an upgraded turbo is to work with the manufacturer and let them configure the turbo based on your setup and how you plan to use the car. SCCA, here are some more pics I posted a while back. I do not have a lot of room to keep them online for more than a week or 2, so if anyone likes the pics, feel free to download them. http://home.cfl.rr.com/scottiegnz/PB-240ZT.html ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  14. Sean, the Pierburg is an exact copy of the big Bosch. I forgot the flow rate (~80GPH?) but that is the pump I am using and I am right at 400RWHP and scaring the heck out of 10s . I am hoping to be in the 430-440 range when I get it tuned right and have no concern about the pump not delivering. We all bought the pumps from Corky Bell at Cartech, http://www.cartech.net/ and they cost at $230. My buddy is running RC 600cc injectors with barbed fittings. I personally think they are too big and we turned down the FP to 36# to get a better idle. As for the turbo, a T04E will make more power, but probably not as streetable and will have a little more lag. Depends on how much HP you are looking for. I love showing off his car ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  15. A good guideline on how much HP an injector can support is: (inj cc/7) * # of cyls = HP @ 80% duty cycle It is a conservative but safe number and obviously you can support more HP by running a higher duty cycle and higher fuel pressure. For the 370cc injs, that number is 317+ but with higher duty cycle and about 43# FP, I can see 350-360hp. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  16. Whoa, Chris, that is not what I said. I said if you are shooting for less than 400RWHP, IMO, a stroker is not worth the expense and you should focus on bolt-ons. I help a buddy build his L28T in a 71. The block is stock with fresh rings and bearings and the head is bone stock with a fresh valve job. He focused on bolt-ons and used the following: - Spearco I/C with mandrel pipes - 60mm TB - t3/t04 turbo - my DP and 3" mandrel exhaust - 600cc injs and Pierburg pump - SDS - 3.70 LSD - Aluminum radiator and good fan He drove the car to the track and with minimal tuning on the SDS, 19# boost, pump gas and street tires, the car ran 11.74 @ 119. That computes to about 350RWHP and with race gas, more boost, more tuning and more track time, who knows. Will every Z setup that way get the same results? Why not? There is not a single thing on that car that I would consider "trick". It just has the right combination of parts. How long will that engine last? Who knows, but since the focus was on reducing heat and detonation, why should it not live forever? ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  17. Will, unless you are building a show car, thats an awful lot of complexity to get 600hp from a Northstar. You need to seriously consider the plumbing, underhood temps and how to control the boost equally on the turbos. I use the Buick 3.8L as a comparison and with the heads massaged, 600hp is fairly common with a single turbo. I am certain the Northstar's larger displacement and superior head design could match the Buick's power output. TT sounds a little easier and the Cadillac LMP is getting 600hp from its TT setup in a 4.0L tuned for endurance. I would dig up any technical details and pics on that setup and use it as a basis for yours. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  18. Matt, I considered this swap for a while but was never able to get any information on it. Here is a pic I have had for quite some time and despite posting it and trying to find the owner, no one seems to know who it belongs to. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  19. Craig, I did not do a download for a closer look and so my advice is to find someone who is using one (does not have to be a Z) and see how they like it and what issues they have. It does datalog but only displays hi/low which about all you could expect on an LCD. Hi/low data is good but only if you get the data points, especially on a turbo car. Making a 1/4-mile pass and getting hi/low without knowing exactly when/where they occured is not very useful IMO. E.g., a very low O2 reading is not so bad in 1st gear but you would certainly want to know if it was at WOT in 3rd. If it does display that info, then that is a point in its favor. I am not here to sell you on the simplicity of the SDS, but do not get caught up in the sales hype of "65,000 datapoints". Why even show datapoints for "WOT"/anything below 2000RPMs? or timing at 1000RPMs related to full boost? That only serves to confuse the novice because those datapoints are unrealistic. I also noticed the only map they displayed was in 500RPM increments. On a turbo application, you need extra fuel and ignition retard as a result of boost demand and those should be seperate tables independent of tables for "normal" driving w/o boost. You can drive at fairly high RPMs w/o boost but you will not see much boost, if any at all, at very low RPMs. Sorry, I am rambling and it is my own opinions. I really wish SDS would make datalogging available even if it was optional for those who did not want it. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  20. Stony, although I am not in favor of street racing on open roads, the Darius mpegs are well worth adding to anyone's collection. If anyone has those links handy, please post. Would also like to suggest a section in this forum that links to any mpegs of Z cars. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  21. Sean, Greg's turboZ IS a work of art. Last time Myron and I were at his place, it was under covers and the engine was in some corner in his garage. Bet nothing has moved since. If I had a daily driver that had mid-9 sec potential, I would probably be pre-occupied also. Greg has tired of the zcar.com scene and combined with his busy schedule, does not get online much anymore. I am going to try and convince him to drop in on this forum every once in a while. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  22. Zfan is correct. The stock line on a 71 is 5/16 and IMO, too small even for the mildest SBC. I am running -8 feed and -6 return to the firewall where it is connected to the original 5/16. From personal experience, if you plan on any hard acceleration , the original tank will have a cavitation problem unless you keep the fuel level high. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  23. RickB, you did not state what your final drive is but guessing it is a 3.54, I calculate the RPM to be 5900. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  24. Rick, as far fetched as this might sound in your case, I had a similiar problem a long time ago and it turned out to be a bad distributor advance spring that was causing too much advance and severe knock under extreme load. Before you dive into the engine, take the engine to maximum stall while some brave soul looks at the timing advance. Do not remember what the numbers should look like for a SBC, but it might be worth a check. I would think a rod would also knock at idle. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ
  25. Another thing. It is not Y2K compliant, so if you have any date-dependent programs, it will probably not suit you.
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