Scottie-GNZ

John, I know what you mean. When my wife drives she is always hoping someone pulls up next to her at the light. However, if your wife/GF is not cognizant of the power under her leg ..(noflames please, pun intended), then do not let her drive it. And, no, I disagree that turbo lag is better for such a driver. Better for her to feel the torque coming than to have felt it. As for a 700hp TT being a daily driver, that guy is thinking NA and does not understand turbos. You have to really mess up or badly detune a Buick StageII for it to NOT make 700hp. Remember that HP is there when the turbo(s) is spooling. When it is not, it is just another mild-mannered, low-compression engine, although in the StageIIs low is probably about 9:1. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ [This message has been edited by Scottie-GNZ (edited February 18, 2001).]

Mike, excellent points and I agree with you 120%!!! I do not want anyone to think I do not recommend forged pistons, but I have seen several instances where folks had a goal of 300+hp for a street driver that would see ocassional track duty and were budgeting for forged pistons. IMO, repeat, IMO, forged pistons are not required for an application like that. Regardless of whether or not you do forged pistons, you still have to address detonation. Serious detonation will destroy forged pistons just as well. When detonation is addressed properly, stock or hyper pistons will handle that level of power just fine. To support Mike's recommendation, I have a new set of Federal Mogul hyper pistons with top-notch rings and bearings, ARP rod bolts and head studs. The bulk of my investment and focus is on preventing detonation. Do not think that because I run a turbo the same principles do not apply to an NA. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

OldZdog and RyalC, when we were setting this up, I stated last weekend was the cutoff and the machinist is already working on them. I am not sure if it is too late, but I will call him and find out. Do not try to send any monies until I contact you personally. FYI, all those who signed up were sent an email with my personal contact information and Paypal account as I did not want to expose on the net. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

To all, great dialog. Terry, thanks for the article. Great read and educational. Kevin, I use a different formula but came up with about the same numbers. I also estimated the potential on Sunday for a best ET of 11.teens but I took a less scientific route. The optimum run would have been to combine the best 1/8 with the best 2nd 1/8. The best 1/8 was 7.31 but the 60' was still off what the car normally runs, which is 1.63. My guess is that with a good (normal) launch, the 1/8 might have been 7.18 and with that added to the best 2nd 1/8 ET of 3.98 would have resulted in an ET of 11.16 with a slightly slower MPH. Woulda, coulda, shoulda. I justy need to fix the car and do it. With the upgraded injectors, I still have another 40hp I can squeeze of this stock setup. A turbo Buick is normally quicker in the first 1/8-mile primarily because Buicks are heavy barn doors. My car should be stronger than a Buick in the top-end because of better aerodynamics. E.g., my buddy's GN has the same engine/power setup and he ran 12.2 @ 109 in his 3800lb sled. My 240Z is street-driven and as I have said on several occasions, I would have no qualms about driving it any distance with no preparation. MOF, last time I made a 480-mile trip to Tallahassee, it got almost 26mpg cruising on the freeway. As I was leaving the track Sunday I looked at all the trailered cars and "street cars" sputtering and spewing black smoke in traffic, I relected on how tractable and docile mine is. Before I leave the track, I adjust the tire pressure and the Tokicos and the only thing missing from making it a "normal" street car are the sway bars. BTW, the other GNZ DRAX referred to has a bigger turbo and some head work and runs 10.50s @ 130. The GN head is downright bad and a fully ported head with larger valves is worth about 70hp!!! RickB can confirm that. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Anyone want to venture a guess what Ron Jones' 0-60 time is? I am guessing 2.0-2.2. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

The magnets go in the pulley/damper and the Hall Sensor must be mounted so that there is a gap (I forgot how much) between the sensor and the magnets. How are you guys planning on mounting the Hall Sensor? On mine, w/o a/c, I fabbed a bracket that was bolted where the a/c is mounted on the block. The bracket went forward then angled in towards the engine so that the sensor was properly aligned with the magnets. The bracket had front to back movement on the block to properly set the gap and the part that angled in towards the block was slotted so the sensor had in/out adjustment to align with the magnets. Allen's question is, if you still have a/c, where/how are you planning on mounting the bracket? I do not have a pic but here is a drawing I did sometime back of the bracket I fabbed. Hope it makes sense. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

http://www.turbobuicks.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000037.html ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Damn, Mike. I looked your pics then went into the garage to pull my turbo. I took one look at my car and walked out. Thanks-a-lot, now I am depressed ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

I recently scanned the latest Car & Driver and the cover screams 0-60 in 3.6 for the Mosler MT900. They also claimed 350hp, 2575 lbs and a 1/4-mile of 12 @ 118. I threw those numbers in my cababulator and it spit out 350.7+RWHP. Hot damn. BTW, I assumed that weight was w/o driver so I used 2750lbs assuming those guys wear lightweight Guccis . That weight comes close to mine so I wondered how I matched up in 0-60 and used my datalogger to show it. The datalogger has my final drive ratio and tire diameter and reads speed from the car's VSS. By "zeroing" out the 1/4-mile run with a starting point of when the computer first senses speed, it can correlate time to speed and distance and come within .01-03 of the real timeslip. Here is a pic of the run at exactly 60mph. Here you are seeing 5 of 13 parameters that can be replayed and you can trace the entire run at 18 frames per second. The 13 parameters are Speed, Inj pulsewidth, Boost PW, EGR DC, Battery Volts, A/F ratio, Spark Advance, Spark retard, Knock Count, O2 volts, Accelertaion, HP and torque. The big readouts on the right side are the vitals that are always there. So, by holding down the arrow key and srolling to the right, you can see the vitals or whatever 5 parameters you want to put up for the entire 1/4-mile. The value of the parameter at the vertical line is positioned at the top right of the graph and at the bottom you see time and distance. To give you an idea of the spoolup problem, note the distance from the first indication of speed to the vertical line, then go left from the same starting point to the time that the TPS is wide open and it looks like about the same timespan. That means I had the transbrake activated and my foot flat to the floor for 3 secs waiting for the hair dryer to spool up and the RPMs are just barely creeping up at about 2200RPMs and the boost gauge is registering about 1.5#. Anyone ever held their brakes and floored their car for 3 secs? Sorry if this bores anyone, but I thought someone out there might appreciate it. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

John, put down the pipe and slowly back away No John, not side-to-side, backwards. As for the 1/8 and 1/4 mph, here they are and no, I am not jerking you guys around, that is not a typo. L28T - 83.54 & 110.97 GNZ - 97.64 & 122.51 ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Welcome guys. Glad to see you are taking the time to put some forethought and planning into your project.....BUT. I noticed all the emphasis was on making power. 300hp in a Z-car is plenty quick, quick enough to outaccelarate a C-5, scare a Z06 and in a lightweight 240Z make a Viper push his go-pedal a little harder. 300hp in a stock Z-car is also downright dangerous. My fatherly advice is to also budget for suspension and brakes upgrades, even if it means you have less HP to begin with. One of the beauties of building a turbo car is that the go-fast parts are mostly external bolt-ons and you can do them in stages. IMO, the stock Z suspension and brakes are inadequate even for a stock engine so make the brakes and suspension upgrades a priority and live to make 300hp. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ [This message has been edited by Scottie-GNZ (edited February 12, 2001).]

I have certainly given all of that a thought. I used to spin the L28T to 6250 and I spin the Buick to 53-5400. The L28T had a 3.70 LSD and 24.5" tires and the Buick has a 3.54 with 26" tires. The Buick gearing closely matches the factory and appears better suited for top-end power. If anything, the L28T gearing was not optimum for a T3 turbo except for the fact that I had the big I/C and willed more power out of it tuning the SDS. All of that said, the fact remains (and what is puzzling to me) I now have over 100hp and ungodly amount of torque to pull me through the top-end. Why is that not generating a bigger speed difference between the markers? For those who remember, read old-timers , they used to say the same thing about the Greenwood Corvette with its low-revving BBC and he would get up on the Daytona banking and just walk away from everyone clicking off 220+mph in the days before the dog-leg. No need for a debate, just pondering. Maybe when I get the injectors and run 24# boost I will get 27mph, but then I will have closer to 150HP more and then ask why not 30mph . ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ [This message has been edited by Scottie-GNZ (edited February 12, 2001).]

When I ran my L28T, it winged its way to a trapspeed of 110.97mph with the little stock T3 turbo wheezing it lungs out . Between the 1/8 and 1/4-mile mark, it had an elapse time of 4.45 and gained 27.43mph! The GNZ has over 100hp more, ran the 1/4-mile 1.7 secs quicker and 11.54mph faster but only gained 24.87mph from the 1/8 to the 1/4. The weight of the car is almost identical and nothing has changed aerodynamically. The 2 engines have completely different HP curves, but with 100hp more, why is the GNZ at least not gaining 27mph in the 2nd half? ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

I called the machinist this morning to change the quantity from 10 to 13. As he told me last week, the supplier was going to machine the blanks and send them to him. The machinist has promised to send him 12 blanks NLT tomorrow. If it is too late to increase the order, that means the first batch will be one short. Pete, you might end up being delayed for your 2nd set unless you are building a secret AWD Tim, no problem not tapping but let me know if the hole is not the same size. Rick, got your letter. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

No Problem, Mon . Ignore the note in my most recent email. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Someone on zcar.com posted that they weighed one and it was between 500-525lbs. I thought it was high, but the person is a reliable source so I believed it. When I did my swap, I felt the L28T and GN were about even and after the same type of question was posted on a Buick forum, it was reported that the Buick was 394lbs w/o the turbo. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

RyalC, I will add you to the list and that makes 13 sets. Paypal is giving me fits but I am sure they will work it out. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

If you plan to drag race the car or slam gears hard, the WC T-5 will be suspect. Remember that a Buick Turbo6 with an upgraded turbo running high boost is pumping out 450-500 lb/ft of torque at very low RPMs. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

I just sent an email to all who are in the group purchase. If you are in this group and did not receive the email I sent this morning, please contact me as I either missed you or have your address incorrect. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

OK, the "problem" with paypal is corrected. They instituted a new policy that limits how much payments you can receive into your account via credit card. That limit is now $100/mo and in order to exceed that limit, you have sign up for an upgraded account. The catch is they now charge a fee for every credit card transaction, 1.9% + $.30. That is not a lot of money if you are a business, because you can just build that into your price. I am not a business.

Folks, sorry I have been a little scarce lately, but I just do not have online access and can only access my email from home. I understand there is a little problem with my paypal and I will correct that this afternoon when I get out of this conference. Not sure what the problem could be. Sorry if I confused anyone about the total. It is $120, including shipping. I will send out another email this evening. There is still time to get added to the list or get more than one. MikeK, I know you expressed an interest in doing that. Just let me know, but after Saturday, the GP is closed. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ [This message has been edited by Scottie-GNZ (edited February 09, 2001).]

Danno, look in the post "Interest In A CV Adaptor". The difference will be in the 2nd photo. Where you see the flange welded on top of the adaptor, it will be recessed in a pocket to position it correctly and take the load off the weld. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

SpotfitZ, ouch is right with $162 for a pair of those brackets. Considering the complexity of the CV adaptor, $110 now seems like a bargain. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

That was the initial intent in the design, but after working with the machinist, it was impossible to get the 6 holes on one side and 4 on the other side without overlap or being too close to each other. There was also the issue of making the hole in the middle large enough to get the big axle nut on/off and fit the CV on the end of the CV. Refer back to the pic that shows the CV side and you will see what I mean. Try positioning the 4 flange bolts between the 6 CV bolts. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Tim, I apologize. I saw your email after I posted. In my normal work day, I am online at all times. This week I am at a company conference with no connectivity and evening activities that give me a few minutes online. By 2pm, I am having the shakes from not being online . Anyways, it looks like a go. I will call the machinist tonight and let him know. I will tell him to do 10 pairs. I might be able to up that number if there are others by the weekend, but this weekend is the end of the GP through me. I will send an email to all who have committed on this post with details on my postal address, tel # and Paypal account. I would prefer to not put that information on the net. I have not checked but if there are any buyers north of the border, we need to get an accurate shipping cost for you. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ