Scottie-GNZ

Jared, I gave you some URLs for the Buick forums so check the classifieds EVERYDAY!!! If one shows up it will not be there long. Another way to find one is to search newspaper classifieds or rags like Auto-trader for a running 86-87 Turbo Regal that has a bad body. It is the same drivetrain as a GN and I have seen them go for as low as $3000. get one, keep the drivetrain and salvage things of value like the Powermaster, rear-end, etc to recoup some of the extra cost. One thing I will tell you is if you are serious about finding one, do not limit your search to your neighbor, town or even state. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Frank, cannot help you on your question but I can tell you that they make a quality wheel. I have had a set of R9s on my 911 since 1985 and basically take them for granted because I have never had a leaking, chipping/pitting or balance problem, even on the track. I bought them directly from Ronal where they painted the centers to match. 4 years later I damaged a front wheel in a pothole and they were courteous, prompt and painted the replacement for no charge. Do not know what model you are looking at, but the R9 is a 5-spoke and one of the most popular wheels they sold (sell?). ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

TimZ, when you say one good CV adaptor, are you sayin the shop did one correct and screwed up the other? ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Sorry guys, but every spare moment for the last 2 days have been in or under car. The shifter replacement ended up being a MAJOR project. James, after I spoke with you last night, I went to bed (frustrated) 2:30a and woke up with the blue flu by mere coincidence. What should have been a 3-hr job turned into AAARGH!. Spent most of the time damn-near rewiring the car because I tugged on the flimsy fuse block removing the console (must have been 100 times) and broke a major connection that was not visible. I am OK now, shifter is in and ready to run tonight. That shifter is SWEEEET!!! Oh yeah, the post . Some folks think what I have done is sacrilige but I would not do it if was not recommended by JTR, for whom I have great respect. James is correct in that the 280ZX 2+2 is unlike the stock Z spring and when cut as recommended, ends up with about 190lbs and does not bind. Believe me, if they are not binding with my banzai launches, they never will otherwise. The ride is no different than the generic performance springs I replaced. With this mod, I have plenty of clearance for my 26" DRs that is on a 15x8 with a 4.5". If I ever go back to a "normal" street tire I could easily fit a 5.5" backspace with a taller tire than is normal for a Z. Would I recommend this setup? Probably not, unless like me, you have access to the springs and a welder. If you have to go to the boneyard and pay to have the springs removed and cut, you are probably better off springing for a few more bucks and get a set of SCCA's coilovers. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Do not know that the price on a TY drivetrain is much different that a Buick TR, but I have always said if you can a TR drivetrain for $2500, jump on it. Like anything else, you take a chance on used stuff, but that has never stopped a potential HybridZ before . Obviously if you have an opportunity to see/hear it run or do a leakdown, so much the better. Hope you have budget for CVs and sticky tires as those things have 360 lb/ft torque stock and they are grossly undertuned. Ask DRAX how you can easily get 20+hp for $5 ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

I found this on the web and although it does not have info for the L-series engine, it still should serve as a useful reference. Since things on the web are prone disappearing, maybe someone might want to put the info somewhere on the forum. http://www.angelfire.com/ar/dw42/engfyi.htm ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Jim, was it plastic? I would like to find a small rad with metal tanks so I mount a fan to the core and mod the tanks to twice their original size. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Zman, if you are patient parting it out, you should be able to get most of your investment back. Some of the parts are getting hard to come by and command big bucks, like the pewermaster and rear end, especially if it is posi. Unless something unexpected comes up, the I/C will be for sale. The price is going to depend on how the L-A I/C gets mounted. If it goes in the stock location, then I want to sell it to a GN-Z with the pipes and hoses as I would hate to waste those nice mandrel SS pipes. If I locate it in front, I would use the pipes and hoses and then anyone could use the NPR. You can see pics on my page. Unfortunately I do not have any pics showing this NPR compared to the more common one. This is the rare "large" NPR. Same width and thickness but it is taller and has huge finned tubes. I will not be raping anyone on this but keep in mind that it already has the mods done. I will not announce any pricing until I do a trial fit of the L-A i/c but obviously selling the NPR is helping to finance this new venture. Now I need to find an auxiliary radiator, a pump and make a reservoir. What is the tiniest import radiator anyone can think of? ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Ron, I was under the impression he bought the GN as another car. Zman, you out there? Is the GN a donor for a GN-Z? Drax, 240Z Turbo and I are looking into Liquid/air I/Cs. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Drop me an email, especially if you have not gotten your I/C setup yet. My entire I/C setup might be for sale soon. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Congrats. Lets see some pics and hear the details and your plans. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Owen, the line-loc only works with the front brakes so I installed it between the m/c and the distribution block. I bought a 3' length of brake line and with a bender and flare tool, made all new lines. Despite being a simple device, it is not the easiest thing to install because I just hate working with brake fluid. In addition, there is not enough room to physically place it directly between the m/c and dist block, so I placed it forward of the m/c so that a 90* bend from m/c goes directly into the line-loc. Then I bent a gentle loop from the line-loc to the bottom of the dist block. Find a good ground and run the pos lead into the car and through a spring switch with a long toggle to a 12v source. So, when you go to use it, press the brake pedal REAL HARD, hold the toggle, release the brake, hit the gas, release toggle when you got the tires heated up. HTH, Scottie ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Zman, I believe the Z you are referring to is running IRS with an R-200. It seems the success with the IRS and a high-torque application varies from breaking parts like they were twigs to "how in the hell does he get away with that". Derek Grubb is running a 71 with a Buick turbo and his car has run a best of 10.59 with a 1.49 60' on 6" slicks. He is using an LSD with 3.36s (custom), but the rest is stock Nissan IRS including halfshafts. I have heard, however, that he has broken axles. I am running the same drivetrain with less HP but I still launch hard with a transbrake and 275 BFG DRs and have a best 60' of 1.55. My car is also a 71 with Illuminas all around at the softest setting when racing, generic sport springs in the front, JTR rear spring perch mod, welded 3.54 diff, ZXT CVs with an adaptor and both swaybars removed. Another key to keeping my setup together is my homemade diff strap that keeps the nose of the diff planted like a solid mount but still retaining the stock rubber mount. I think some of the keys to keeping the stock IRS together are: proper driveshaft angle, avoiding extreme halfshaft angles (cured by using CVs), keeping the nose of the diff planted, avoiding massive wheelspin and wheelhop, and of course, being lucky to find quality used parts. Remember the used diffs, stub axles and halfshafts we get from the boneyards are upwards of 25yrs old and that used R-200 might still have the original lube from the factory Cannot say that what I am doing will work for everyone, but so far I am having good results and will continue to have faith in the IRS setup. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Ron, what Lone said. Here are 2 pics of the loop installed. Normally the bottom half of the loop sits lower that the mounting bracket. In the 2nd pic you can also catch a glimpse of my diff strap which is obviously doing the job. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

I will just repeat my previous post "Let me know when you are coming down". Sure is a lot of woofing from someone who does not have a timeslip to back it up . Oh, my bad. Its April Fools, you had to be joking. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Jim, let me know when you are coming down. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

You need one of these or put a standard R-200 cover on it. Somebody on one of the forums makes these. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

If you have fabrication skills, that swap will not cost you $15K. I spoke with one of the guys who did that swap (not Greg, I heard he is OK) and the guy was a pompous ass and basically gloated about the car and told me if I did not have a big wad of cash do not even speak to him about the swap. What he is not telling everyone is that includes EVERYTHING including body/paint. Just because the engine is $2K, does not mean it will be cheap. I took a long hard look at this swap and decided it was too expensive and complex. The $2K, I assume includes a tranny/flywheel/clutch, if not factor that in. You also need to consider the following: - fabbing the mounts - custom driveshaft - custom radiator and external oil cooler - ECM/harness and wiring up that puppy - I/C and plumbing!!! Remember TT means 2 and a plumbing nightmare. I was going to have Corky Bell make me an I/C for this with daul inlets and single outlet. With the mandrel plumbing and hoses, my estimate was $1100. - 2 DPs and exhaust - If you do not have fabrication/welding skills, then expect to pay someone a ton. IMO, a built L28T can match a lightly tweaked TT in cost and performance, but if you have the $$$ to put into squeezing HP from the TT is is tops. That is why I went with the GN. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Hope you did not hurt anything when you washed down the walls. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Just spent a couple of hours under the car and what a b*tch. Where you see the loop in the picture is about where it ended up. I wanted it back a few inches but that would have put the holes in the floor under the seat up against the seat mount bracket and the further you go back in the tunnel the less room you have as a result of the e-brake and the recess in the console area. The bracket that bolts to the floor was too wide so I had to cut off 2 sets of holes. Next the bottom of the loop was too low because my exhaust (single 3") runs under the tunnel to get max clearance. I had to unbolt the bottom half of the loop, cut the top of it right below the bolt holes, then butt it up against the bottom of the top half to get the clearance for the exhaust. I am just going to weld that bottom piece on. This is the generic loop, Moroso or Lakewood and if anyone is considering this unit, it will work fine if your exhaust does not run directly under the tunnel. If so, you MIGHT (I am speaking for a 71) have to do the mod I am doing. I will post a pic of the finished product if anyone is interested. As for the NHRA specs, Jim hit it on the positioning and I seem to remember it had to be at least 2" wide and .25" thick. I am interested in seeing the axle loops. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Jim, not sure I understand how that setup works. How many sensors does it have and where/how are the sensors mounted? Shoot me a pic if you have any. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

If I can break this, then I have a serious torque "problem". Just in case, I will put the hoop in since I dusted it off. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Tim, the MAT data on the Buick is useless because it is measured at the MAF which of course is before the turbo inlet. I thought about adding MAT capability, but after closely monitoring it with the L28T and NPR combo, I have enough faith in the NPR that it is not a priority. The datalogger was developed by an engineer who is a Buick turbo enthusiast and does it on the side. We have been pleading with him for sometime to add a MAP sensor and log boost. It sure would be nice to see boost, inj PW, O2s and timing all together. Right now I just grab glances at the boost gauge in 3rd. The chip I am using is revolutionary in the Buick turbo world but FAR from a programmable system like SDS or TEC. E.g., I can switch between street and race timing but do not have control of the timing curve. I can change fuel for cold start, idle, cruise, spoolup, 0-4000RPMs and WOT, but again with no granularity. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

My L28T Z was supposed to be tearing up road courses at Porsche and BMW drivers schools, then I took it to the drag strip to see what kind of progress I was making and...... Hey Pete, I just around the corner from you in Bethesda, but it is just a quickie in/out trip. Last minute beckon by hqtrs for a meeting tomorrow that will last 3.5hrs then out tomorrow eveining. I will spend more time on the plane than I will in the meeting I thought aboust spending a day but I have to go to Seattle Sunday. ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ

Kevin, the TPS (throttle position sensor) tells the computer how much the throttle blade is opened. In my case, WOT is 4.60 and you can see I had it to the wood. But, if you look at the TPS and RPM before the car got moving, you can see what went on during spoolup. OK, OK, you cannot see, I have to tell you . Right above the "R" in Retard, the other car tripped his 1st light and I engage the transbrake and cracked the throttle about halfway open to bring the boost up. Where you see the TPS flatten out means I am holding the boost at 7# while the lights come down and the rest is obvious. As for the O2s, I will be happy when they flatline. Sleepless in Bethesda ------------------ Scottie 71 240GN-Z Scottie's GNZ