Scottie-GNZ

1fstZ, that is quite a wild ride you have there. PLEASE, put a cage in that car. The breakage you are experiencing is why I weld up the open R-200s. I have a welded 3.54 for cheap if you want it

Turbo SBC Z Since I know it will be asked, that is an NPR.

The bottom injector in the picture is definitely a Bosch mehanical EFI injector. I sent an email off to SDS for an answer on their table.

How is this for responsiveness? Also pleasing to know that some of our key vendors actually visit and monitor out site. Hi Scottie, I read this forum a bit. Don't have time to jump throought he hoops to login. The hp is our injector sizing chart is engine HP. We don't care what the drivetrain losses are as these are irrelevant when sizing injectors. Secondly, the 0 280 150 036 and 028 injectors fit Mercedes and Volvo. They are D-Jetronic which is an analog EFI system and have blue tops. They are interchangable with L28 injectors except that they will not accept the L-Jet electrical connectors. We can supply injector harnesses with the D-Jet plugs installed when systems are ordered. The flow rate on our bench is 480cc/min. at 38 psi. We have seen a few BW remans that are not great. If you can actually get genuine, new Bosch 036s for $18, buy them. Cheers, Ross

There will always be extremes where folks have gotten ridiculous HP out of a GN engine, but most folks will go to about 480-500RWHP with the stock bottom-end. The key is avoiding detonation. At that point a girdle can be added and the main caps swapped out for billet units to get you up to 700. A lot of the StageII version of that engine got freed up when the Busch GN dropped V-6s, where the Buick engine ruled. That is the same engine used in the Indy car program and 1000hp is common among the drag racers. As this all relates to a Z-car, a 500hp GN drivetrain in a 2600lb Z will get you close to 10.0 and what we are talking is a set of ported heads, cam and decent sized turbo + the requisite fuel and I/C upgrades. In a couple of months I expect to see the other project, a 550hp RX-7 hit that target. I am talking about very well-mannered street cars. http://www.turbobuicks.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/000079.html

Hey gofastZ, you are in CA so I do not know if you are referring to Eddie Bello's 930. Couple of years ago he drove it down from NY to South FL, ran 9.40s @ 150+ and drove it home. He avoided the waterbox, did a short burnout to haze the tires, big wheelstand off the line, lifted the wheels on the 1-2 and the 2-3 and did all of that on 255 Toyo Proxes A-1s shaved down to 4/32" . I heard he had the car in the hi-8s but is now in jail. Turns out he headed a major intl stolen car ring. Takes a lot of hot cash to finance a streetable 750hp Porsche Turbo.

FL327, a Muncie behind a GN engine would be awesome until you get over 100mph then you run into the problem I have been facing. If you run a "normal" tire, say 24.8" diameter, a 3.54 and keep the RPMs reasonable at 5400, you would have a whopping 109+mph top speed. Bumping it up to a 26" tire, you top out at 115+mph. With a 3.36, you get 115+ and 121+. Of course, the problem is easily corrected with some ported heads, a mild cam upgrade and 6000RPM redline. Now you are approaching 575+ lb/ft of torque through the stock suspension . I wonder if GM had a clue what they had when they bred this little jewel? Picture this. The GM engine gurus just finished the design of the "new" 262" small block V-8 and one of the engineers say "yeah, and in a couple of years we can punch it out to 400".

Scott, 104 Octane Booster, et al, claim to raise your octane by points and to some degree they are correct. What they are not telling you is that what they mean by points is ".x" not "x".

Thanks, all. Dan, for folks like myself, mounting the fuel pump inlet lower or even equal with the tank outlet is impossible with the sump. hard to say if it is causing a problem but I have no choice.

Thanks and I will resist the temptation not to write a book on this reply . quote Not sure which particular buzziness you are referring to, but it sounds like you did not have an OD tranny and depending on the final drive, the engine could be very busy at speed. I also found that most hi-perf mufflers need about a foot of tailpipe to get rid of the drone and a muffler in the stock location just does not make it possible. quote I am not a fan of the Buick car and other similar cars, but that drivetrain is absolutely magical. Yes, you can make a Regal handle well and the GNX was evidence of that but you just do not try to compare it to say a Vette. quote It is not my daily driver because it does not have to be and as such I have taken liberty with that. I would say given equal HP at 400, the GN drivetrain makes a better daily driver than a V-8. No Flames, Please. Having built and a Scarab and a JTR and used them as daily drivers, that is my opinion. I had a 3.54 R-200 and with the .67 OD and lockup, the car idled down the highway to the tune of 23mpg, despite 400+RWHP. The THDP TTA DP was just a bolt-on, but remember it wasonly about 8" long off the turbo. I had a shop mandrel bend 3" SS to finish the DP. GNers are hung up on keeping their cars "stock appearing" and do not want to bother with an FMIC. I think putting an I/C between the engine and the radiator makes no sense and since the Z had lots of room, the only choice for me was an FMIC. Only way I would put an I/C in the stock location is if I was doing an air-water I/C. I run consistent low-mid 1.60s with a best of 1.55 on DRs. No traction problems. Flame Suit On As for how V-8s perform at the track, here is my opinion. Traction problems aside, there are a lot of folks who do not seem to realize that not all V-8s are born equal. It is not unusual to see 2 SBCs and have one run 14.5 and the other 12.0 because one is a garden-variety 2-bbl motor with 1.72 heads and the other is a 350 with 2.02 heads. Just because it is a V-8 with big cubes does not mean it will make a Z go fast or at least as fast as you would expect.Flame suit off. That statement will probably irk a few, but...oh well. quote Did not hear about that one. The manual tranny will work, but you have to be careful with your choice of gearing. The Buick as you know is a low-revver and so a 3.30 1st-gear combined with a 3.70 LSD just will not work. HTH Damn, I did end writing a book [ September 24, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ] [ September 24, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ]

Very interesting kit and one that should fit in the Z. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=14213&referrerid=1951

For the hordes out there rushing to install the Corvette IRS , you better hold off until I post an update. I had to reposition the hangar because the hub, in what would be the extreme squat position, had a clearance problem. I already had it redone but have been a little scarce lately with work and some personal tasks. Probably will not be able to get to it for a couple of days but will post updates when I can.

Scott, real difficult to diagnose the problems just from a post, but here are a couple of things to ponder for the launching technique. If I have it correct, you went from a 2.8 NA to a 3.0L turbo and what you are feeling is the tremendous difference in torque, especially with that small t3 giving full boost so low. You cannot launch the turbo car like you did the NA. My advice would be to launch it soft and work your way up until you find the sweet spot. If you plan to have fun at the drags with the car, I would say invest in a pair of DRs. One local 300ZX made the NA to turbo swap and had the same problem until he practiced and got his technique down. Now he is in the mid-13s with just a Starion I/C and you are a lot lighter. As for the boost problem, that is strange having it on the street but not at the track. I would first look for a wastegate problem, either the wastegate itself or the signal line. Disconnect the rod and check the movement of the puck lever to make sure it closes all the way freely. There is another possiblity but it depends on how sophisticated the ECM is that you are using. If you are having knock in the lower gears at the track, the computer could be retarding the timing and preventing the engine from achieving full boost. Regardless, at the track I would throw in a couple gallons of race gas to be safe. [ September 23, 2001: Message edited by: Scottie-GNZ ]

Never ceases to amaze me at the varying results we get from the same product. I used the CFDF in my L28T and Eclipse AWD Turbo and had great success with them.

Anyone found a good low-cost hi-perf EFI pump? A lot of folks have me about EFI pumps and the $250+ asking price for the really good pumps can hurt a pocketbook. Surprised no one has come up with an alternative.

Big Boi, welcome the forum. Sorry I do not agree with your conclusion based on the experiences of some naive import racers. I am biased towards turbos and will never deny the vitues of s-charging, but "Naive import racers", that says it all .

Pete is dead on. DRs are not slicks and you cannot just floor it and dump the clutch. You have to find their limit and try not to exceed it. Once you find that limit and they hook, you will see the good 60'. I launch my automatic off a transbrake and just like trying to dump the clutch at high RPMs, I can only launch with so much boost else they go up in smoke. Patience, trial and error and you will be rewarded. Just as an aside, despite running an automatic, I estimate my engine to have about 500lb/ft of torque with full boost a couple of feet off the line. I have no wheelspin with the same tires you are using. Once I get the new rear completed, I intend to try raising the boost off the line but do not expect it to be much higher before frying the tires. RickB is also automatic but he is launching a SBC with NOS on 235s. Oh yeah, nice times on that L28T.

Very nice!

External measurements would be the least of your concerns. You would need to be concerned about combustion chamber alignment with the cylinder bore, oil galleys, water jackets, head bolt/studs, etc, etc. It would be a hoot if all matched perfectly

I have a spare switch if you think you need to replace it.

I just drew an imaginary line from where the rod connects to the rack up to the firewall.

Should be interesting to see how they resolve the steering rod issue. Also, seems a lot of frame mods were done aft of the engine.

Fairlady, this one is for you, if you have an interest in 1st-gen RX-7s. Has a lot of neat links to hybrid RX-7s and many other hybrids. Look at the RX7Liter Specifications page as it list every mod and the cost. http://home.att.net/~rx7liter/index.html

My car will be worn out by the time you are ready (with a 10-sec timeslip, i.e.) Sure looks sweet though.

This is the setup I am currently running and use and like the KVR carbon fiber pads. http://www.kvrperformance.com/