sileightygx

Thank you Tim, I am having a bit of a dubious day so that is why I am asking you geniuses. Very good info you posted. This is why I do not want to start lowering the spring itself. It is setup without any pre-load and only hand tightened with strut at its max height and not lowered down at all so the shock has it's normal travel for this coilover. The springs are different pairs, so 6kg/mm is the front pair, and 5kg/mm is the rear pair.

Chuck thank you so much for the detailed post. For the ground to the seam of firewall/floor just slightly above the rail it is 4 1/2 inches. I marked the below photo with how I measured. Floor level picture of the suspension (you can see the coilover threaded to about where the inspection hole stops). I also do not have a bump spacer installed, and the nub left over from the original strut is about 1/2 inch. Also awesome pictures! Appreciate the time you took to detail everything out for me.

It's probably the angle of the picture, but the control arm is parallel with the ground. There is no contact with any part. I didn't add any preload either, just tightened the spring lower perch barely hand tight. I do not want to adjust the height via the spring either, and that is the odd part since others have much more adjustability with just threading the shock body down. All corners have the coilovers installed as well. Yup! You are right they are 6k front / 5k rear, was just saying without any weight to compress them all the springs are 7 inches tall. I could bring down the spring perch, but from others experiences I have heard of they have not had to do this which is the problem. So I think maybe the coilovers itself are too long (stance shipped wrong ones?) I am not trying to super dump the car, and am just trying to figure out why the front height adjustment via threading down in the weld on tube is so much less than doing the same in the rear. Is that kind of adjustability normal with this setup? If someone has a set can you kindly measure the front coilovers? Preferably from the top of the threaded portion to the bottom?

I thought about that too, but measured all of them and they are the same. Would make sense since I believe they are four s13 fronts (could be wrong?). The springs are also all 7 inch springs.

Thanks for the info guys. Yeah I really don't know wth is going on with this install. Engine is installed as well so there is weight on the front. Spring is a 7 inch spring. Rates are 6k front 5k rear. At first I thought my flares were installed out of wack, but measured from body and front is definitely way higher than rear. Just trying to eliminate some variables. Included the below pics of install: Height Threaded all the way into the stance 6 inch tube. The bottom of the threaded portion below the inspection hole on the side of the stance weld on tube. Coilover is 16 inches in length from top spring perch to bottom. Shock body is fully extended. Coilover body is 11 inches from top of threaded portion to bottom

Any users have this kit installed with the Sakura Garage supplied camber plates? Did the installation on a 71 240z and with the coilover threaded all the way down into the tube the front is almost stock height. The original strut was chopped and less than an inch was remaining when the tube was welded on. All arms have travel and are not stuck on anything. Funny enough the rear is only threaded into the tube 2 inches and is way lower than the front. The springs have zero preload and aren't tightened more than hand tight. Anyone run into this? Talked to a few people who had them and they have so much more height adjustability than I do in the front. The coils are the older stance super sport and are the same length on all four. Thanks! Also wanted to clarify no blame is being placed, just some confusion and welcome tips or if anyone spots something amiss.

Just got a chance to read through all of this and wanted to thank Tony for the AWESOME close up pics.

Would be nice if that was the case dangit. Many of my interests fall under this category, and have been tried on a friend's dyno smog for fun. Emissions pass, but fail for visual? Seriously...pollution is not the #1 concern here if the swap runs cleaner than the stock older setup. Rules are rules, you either follow them through proper channels or get creative and run the risk of bad times

Several of my friends have bought from them including CA18, and several S13/S14 SR20s. We went each time to inspect the motor and have it compression tested in front of us. Since we were there we also picked out all missing parts from the preloaded motorset pallets. So if anything I would recommend going there yourself to pick out your motorset/clip rather than just ordering to be shipped/picked up. You have to realize as well you are buying a USED motor with an unknown history. There will always be risks associated with buying a used engine from whatever place you buy from. I am not endorsing them, just wanted to put out that my friends and myself have not come across any issues.

Any updates on your decision on direction to go with the rear end? Figured it was time to bug you for an update! haha

Glad to hear you got it sorted out! Hope to check out your car someday at one of the local meets.

Droooolll over the R32 and rally Z!!

Good to see you are well motivated! Sounds like you have everything planned out well, and wish you best of luck. Keep us updated with how its going with your new L28ET

Very nice progress!! I personally vote against an SBC and vote for any flavor of Nissan straight six..but thats just my opinion

Dang that sucks man. Please let us know how it ends up when you get the official papers in the mail.