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I also just found a tach driver by msd that generates it's own pulse, by what I assume to be the coil wire's emf. Sounds like a much cheaper solution than getting the equivalent driver that taps into the wire itself. msd 8918

The msd one on summit is $80, but I'm sure there are cheaper alternatives. I'd like to find out if a simple signal divider would be easy enough to incorporate, but will otherwise look for the tach adapter on ebay or something.

So I got the msd lazer tach today and tried to install it. It doesn't work with the ecu tach signal either. That wire has been no help to me at all, I don't know if it's some sort of strange signal or what. I tried tapping one of the leads to the ignitor to see what happens and just as I thought, it reads 1/6 of my rpm, for obvious reasons. So then I bought six diodes and tapped all of them, but now it's back to reading zero. Turns out tapping more than one of the leads doesn't work for whatever reason, unless I'm missing something. Now I'm trying to figure out if there is a way to calibrate the gauge, but the instructions were pretty skimpy. It came with a cd, but the only thing it says you use it for is to change the shift light and the backlight features, and I'd have to get a serial-usb cable anyhow. I don't even know how the gauge works in 6cyl mode, there's not setup for it... Unless I'm missing something. When that doesn't work I'll have to find another signal source that pulses for all 6 cylinders, like a common output from the ecu, or the actual coil source if that will work. And when that doesn't work, I'll have to buy a tach adapter, pretty much defeating the purpose of buying an aftermarket gauge in the first place. I'll have to decide if having this pretty gauge is worth it or not. The only way to do it then, as I can see, is to get the adapter designed for individual coils. I've given up on trying to use the ecu tach signal. So that's the plan.

Haven't got the tires yet. Just trying to figure out if they're big enough. I assumed the tread width from the tires I spec'ed out above and scaled my tires to match.

So, yes I've searched, and found a dozen threads called "how big can I go?" most of which speculate at the definition of "big." I don't care to increase the diameter any, I'm sure getting smaller rear wheels even couldn't hurt, however for appearances sake, I'd like to stick with 24" or higher. Basically, I'd like to get the widest tires possible. I can't afford coilovers at this time however, and I don't really want the tires to stick out of the wheel wells. Also I'm considering going up in rim diameter a few inches as a secondary goal. The stock tires: 185/70R14 (some 240s came with 195s or so?) I looked them up on a chart, as my tire knowledge is lacking, and it is said that they have a 5.2" tread. (overall is 8" or so fwiw). My starting point is that the distance between my springs and the lip of the fender is a little over 9.5" and I don't think anything else is in the way. I really like these tires, I'm sure you'll all think I've gone mad when I spec them... MTT-3751R 24x9 R15 Overall width: 9.1" Tread: 8.2" Rim: 6-8" Dia: 24" The diameter is roughly the same, slightly larger wheel and thicker rim. Now, in a perfect world these would fit right? The possible obstacles I see already are: 1. Wheel offsets come in .25" increments, so the wheel could be barely too far out or too far in, depending on the hub spacing 2. When the suspension compresses, the wheel track changes distance. The latter might be moot, and I suppose if the former became a problem, I could trim the lips on my fenders or something, but I'd have to check to see if they still clear vertically, or in worst case scenario I could hold off until I can afford slimmer coils, such as the azcar roadrace assembly. If the rubbing was like microscopic, I could fit a narrower rim and that might clear it, but I'm sure I wouldn't know to do so until it was too late... Perhaps I should work backwards now that I have an idea what size wheel and rim is commonly available. Ie. dimension a wheel with the proper backspacing etc and see what size tire will fit on that (although it might involve more guesswork.) At first I thought odd sizes like 15" rims would be harder to find, but it seems they are a dime a dozen. Any larger and they become far too wide. That said, 14" rims this size are almost nonexistant. Thus, it seems that 15"x7+-1" is a practical fitment for this application. I just don't know the proper offset because I haven't measured it yet. I suppose I would just find the relative distance between the center of the wheel well and the mounting flange then make the offset half that to center the tire. If anyone has already fitted the widest tires they could muster on a stock setup, feel free to chime in with the overall tire width and the rim backspacing/ofset.

Well I have to read 1-7 first Pretty clean job man. I don't have the time or the resources, I think I'm stuck working with what I already have for now. Some day I'd like to make an aluminum or fiberglass dash though.

I already failed on getting gauges that look like the go together as a set. I bought an msd lazer tach/boost for cheap, but soon after realized they don't even make speedos! What the french, toast? I'll have to find another one that looks good enough, or similar enough. The tach does look beautiful though, hopefully when I get it and it lights up it will meet my expectations. Does westach make the dual sweeps horizontal like the stock gauges? I'm not to crazy about the vertical ones myself, after seeing them on the dash, they just look funny for some reason, hard to get used to. Having the needles follow the circumference of the face seems to make the most sense to me.

I'd have to say the best part about this one is that the headlight buckets are molded in. Is niiiice.

Hard to see what they are, and who makes them? please elaborate. Part of the problem is often that combo gauges don't come in convenient packages. I mean I've never seen one that did oil pressure and batt amps etc. They are usually oil pressure and temp, water pressure and temp, etc. involving something I don't really desire.

Yes, for a gear box the principle is the same, although it would have to be calibrated for all of the torque loss from mechanical inefficiency. Like in the torquewrench, increasing the leverage means you trade off weight for distance, so increasing the length of the wrench means you have to turn it farther but with less force, so it is easier. I assume you had to turn the handle 60 times around to get the same travel on the lug? I'd probably just put the iron on the lug and kick it a few times, but I digress. Sounds like a really cool project though.

Ah, EVAN! I was wondering why the hell they weren't getting it. Panzer disagreed with me but everything he said made it seem like we were on the same page. Perhaps I'm not the best at explaining it after all. Yes, the "weight" you are applying to the wrench doesn't need to be as high to torque the same amount when the arm is longer, that's why you put it at a lower setting! I assumed I was clear enough about it being an extension to the ratchet end, when we need "more torque" to tighten a huge nut I hope none of us are talking about welding a big rod on the end of the wrench handle. If you can't get the wrench to torque down to it's setting, you have different problems than I am describing -- you are lacking LEVERAGE, ie. strength. The problem is that if your torque wrench only goes up to 50ft-lbs and you feel like torquing to 500ft-lbs, then no amount of adding to the handle length is going to make the wrench exceed what it was designed to do. In short, adding an extension to the drive end, like my examples (crows foot, line wrench etc.) doesn't make the torque wrench do any more work, it just gains mechanical advantage at the other end of your new lever. The wrench itself is still doing whatever torque you set it to at its drive, the applied torque, the only thing that matters, on the other end of the extension is what goes up. On a side note, I should have said 7/16 wrench instead of 9/16, did that confuse anyone? Of course that is assuming you have a 3/8 drive torquewrench that only goes to 75ft-lbs, which isn't very convenient. Does that make sense?

Was that your thread about the cv's being some strange length and not being able to figure out which was which? I saw one like that where two known good cv's were stood up side by side with two backwards ones. It seems clear now that, unless mine in fact are backwards, the longer center shaft goes with the longer splined shaft, right? It seems that the outside flanges are identical, so that part shouldn't matter. Knowing myself well, I made it a point to only take appart one at a time so I wouldn't inevitably get them mixed up. I think the reason the driver's side is a better fit is that the distance between the diff and the wheel isn't that much different between the two sides. It was only like a half inch closer on the driver's side, whereas the cv's are like an inch or so difference in length? It seems like another driver's side cv would even work on the reverse. I'll keep a close eye on the travel and any binding once the wheels are on the ground. I'm not sure what else I can do at this point. It does make me wary of getting tighter springs though for fear of raising the back end to the point of closing the gap on those shafts.

I've been seeing a lot of stuff on making your own torque wrench extension (such as adding clutches to an r200) and there seems to be a lot of confusion, such as in saying "torque changes," "I used an online calculator," "instructions with my torquewrench," etc. so I searched torque faq and didn't see one. It was somewhat annoying that there was any discrepancy on the matter, but perhaps making a faq will help someone who needs it, so here goes. FAQ Q. What is a torque multiplier? A. Adding length to your torque wrench and thus increasing it's applied torque versus it's indication. Q. I need to figure out how much the torque will change. A. Can you phrase that in the form of a question? Q. What if that thing I said? A. The applied torque is a ratio of the new arm length to the original length: Your torque wrench was calibrated based on it's designed handle length, which is considered to be from the center of the drive to the center of the grip on the end of the handle (where it is properly held). However, we do not care what the torque will actually be when we set it to what we want, rather we have to work backwards to get from what we want it to be to what it will indicate (or what we will set it to in the case of a click type wrench). Example You need 100ft-lbs and you have a 10" torque wrench that only goes to 900in-lbs. So, because you're a genius, you add a 9/16 wrench and use it as a foot, adding 6" to the total length from the drive of the torque wrench to the center of the boxed end of the added wrench. Since your new length is 16" v. the original 10", your applied torque will be 16:10. This means that you will need to set the wrench at the reciprocal of that to get the correct torque -- remember, you are multiplying APPLIED torque so you will need to in effect do the inverse (divide) to get the INDICATED torque. So here's the math. You take 100 ft-lbs, which is 1200 in-lbs. and multiply by 10/16 (or the ratio of your handle length to the total new length). Thus, you will set your torque wrench to 750 in-lbs (62.5 ft-lbs) and because the extension multiplies that torque, the applied torque will actually be 1200 in-lbs (100 ft-lbs.), the correct amount you are seeking. The Formula example: 100 X 10 / 16 = 62.5 Desired Torque X Handle Length / Total Length = Adjusted Torque On a side note, if the extension you use isn't set straight out, the multiplier will be diminished. This can be handy in using a crows foot to torque a brake line for example -- by adjusting the crows foot at a right angle to the torque handle, you aren't actually adding any length, and thus do not have to calculate an adjusted torque. It can be invonvenient however if you are using a ratcheting torque wrench for example and the extension keeps clicking off center -- you must keep the extension straight out from the handle or your reading will be inacurate.

See, I thought this would be like a blogronym thread. That's what I need, I've figured out so far FWIW = for what it's worth What the crap does IMO stand for? LOL Oh, P.S. LOL = Laugh out loud lqtm = laugh quietly to myself (more truthful version of lol) Okay sorry to hijack, please continue... Did you get AAC? I can't remember what it actually stands for, when the engine manual refers to it using a full name, it usually says idle air control or something, odd.

I want to assume that since it's commonly supported swap that they should be fine so long as I don't go airborne and bottom them out. But on the other hand it could be worse than I thought, I don't want a ticking time bomb. Hmm, I'll have too look for other people's failures with these things.

Perhaps someone who did this already can tell me if the following is normal. The drivers side cv went in fairly easy, it was a snug fit though. To get the passenger side in I had to jack up that corner and sit on the car to compress the spring as much as possible, it was still pretty darn snug, albeit getting into the recess frees up a little space. The directions I got suggested jacking the corner too, so I figured that close of a fit is normal. However, the only worry is that with the spring down there is a good amount of load on the cv and it is hard to turn the passenger side. I know that the weight of the car will keep the spring more compressed than this under most circumstances and the cv won't be as bottomed out, but I was just wondering if it is as close for everyone else, I want to make sure my fitment is typical. Other than that, I'm still waiting on the shop to put in the drive shaft. My friend said it probably wouldn't be that much more to get the drive shaft changed instead of the flange, so I figure it will be worth the extra bucks to have a beefier u-joint instead of that small stock-sized one. I know u-joints are rarely the weakest link, but otherwise I'd just be reverse engineering the input shaft. We'll see exactly how much more it will cost and if it is worth it.

On a side note, keeping with the theme of this thread, any beginners out there will be happy to know that the swap was pretty straightforward thus far. The only thing I'm waiting for now is to gt the driveshaft on. Even if the input shaft can be swapped it will probably be easier just to get the flange machined for 50 bucks or whatever, especially now that the diff is completely installed. The hardest part was probably getting those darn stub axles in -- mostly because I bought used ones from a guy on this forum who apparently had removed them from his car in a manner that didn't suggest planning towards reselling them. Plus you have to decide how to safely get the new bearings in etc if you don't have the "proper" tools. Everything else, that I ironically spared no expense on was straight bolt on. Soon I plan on buying the whole-car poly kit so for now I didn't replace the bushings, which I understand is a big no-no, but other than that I was okay with reusing some of the old hardware. One thing that baffled me was the strap that holds down the diff. I didn't compare the two noses that closely, but they seemed to be the same physical dimensions, but when I put the new one in, that strap had to go. I figure no one has brought it up because that strap is the first thing they throw away, but when I thought live and let live, I realized the nose of the diff was really close to hitting the mount, and may have ended up right up against it after finishing the install. Could the old diff have been that close? Would explain all that clunking people experience that vanishes with the new diff. Also, does everyone else have a bolt that holds the diff mount down or is it just me? It is told as though the nose is allowed to bounce up and down even with the strap in place (albeit very worn and stretched by now) because the mount only holds the nose off the crossmember, as in bolted to the diff but not fastened down or the other way around? People even put a bolt through the nose and the crossmember as sort of a quick and dirty fix I've heard, but from where I'm standing it doesn't need such a thing, unless the problem is that the diff mount rubber will destroy itself if left alone. From the way people had described this mount before, I assumed all that clunking was the diff nose bouncing up and down on the crossmember because of a worn strap, but there is no way that the mount would let this be so because the rubber was fully intact. Am I missing something again?

It's funny I never gave it a second thought because the diff thread didn't mention it even though it discusses a handfull of diff types, I took it that nissan kept the input shafts standard, what was I thinking. From zhome: About Swapping-out The R180 In The 240Z - For An R200 LSD From A 300ZX. The input flange is another story however. You either have to change your drive shaft yoke to match the input shaft on the differential, or you have to change the input shaft on the differential to match the yoke on your stock drive shaft.

So the input shaft from my r180 will go on the r200?? Please advise! Sorry stony, I'm gonna be completely honest with you, I didn't read the whole thing . Although there was a lot of good stuff here.

Okay what the heck. There's always one missing link, and the diff thread didn't mention needing it. My driveshaft doesn't mate the r200! They're different flanges, and yes the flanges are different spline so I can't swap them. The old diff has a larger hole that the driveshaft slips in, and the bolt holes are closer together slightly. I have to take the flange to a machine shop and have them lathe out the center, then make new holes. I'm just glad the r200 flange is round and not square so that I can make that adjustment. Also, it's hard to remember because it seems that first time around i put everything together backwards, but the diff rubber mount was backwards. I could swear the fat end faced back, but the hole was way off for the crossmember. Could my 1972 be a late release 71??? I noticed -- looking back in the diff thread to see if it mentioned anything about driveshafts (and other than needing a longer one for the 71) it didn't -- that it said in a 71 to flip this mount around because those diffs were mounted farther back. But if that's the case, how come my drive shaft still looks like it is the right length? I probably got mixed up, but it just adds to the mystery. Also, I didn't think about it before, but I don't have a sway bar. What years had them? The azcar diff hangars were made to clear the sway bar but it didn't matter in the end. Although they were still necessary to clear the finned cover. Other than that so far so good. Dang. Also, I need no brake shoes and cylinders...

Noice! No I meant if you preferred to use the hks versus reselling it. I don't need one personally, but I know a lot of hondas around here that wish they were us, you could probably get much of your money back on ebay is what I was saying. hks is nice though, I'm not sure it's the most essential of parts. How much did it cost you?

Hey if you're willing to part with that bov it should work nicely. Mine lined up pretty well with the top of the radiator so I could easily run a tube like that over the top to the other side of the bay. Is it that very end piece that comes off so you can weld on it? Looks roughly the size of the original bpv too. Here's a better demo of my recirc setup. Other than the T part and the elbow (which I lathed out of the plug I was using to be the right fit for the rubber port and welded onto a straight tube), it's just two straight tubes and a couple miscellaneous bend tubes I had laying around -- an elbow, a short 45 and a sweeping 90. I cut the hoses and the tubes appropriately to fudge the desired runs and angles so that the T, elbow, and the tube leading across the radiator where straight shots to each other. Rather than an actual T, you could make an outside leg angle up more and use a 45 instead to gain more clearance, but I just worked with what I had since I already made the T beforehand with a different plan in mind. If there was a market for it I would remake all these parts of mine to resell as a kit. I wonder if anyone would be interested in overpaying for a solid recirculation system? I mean, this could all be one piece if I sat down and took the time to make it an exact fit, but the tig is at work and I don't feel like running back and forth. I was also working on a nice panel filter box for a ram air scoop but the mafs ended up preventing me from using it. Buzz kill again!

On a side note, at least your bpv is a racing one. I got mine for about ten bucks, attempted impersonation of a greddy, the other sensing line fitting broke off when I tried to unscrew it. But hey, it works, or at least it's fooling me.