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Well yeah, ls6... Each new corvette model year we can replace our engines with the one before, heh. Barely fits though? It looked spacious enough, almost the entire engine sits behind the struts. I only wish I had the room to fit the intercooler in the bay and have power steering or a/c. Currently I can do neither. But yeah, wiring is often a nightmare. A whole thread can be devoted to one carb, while another devoted to one ambiguous injector wire. Still though, I said The End. You can't comment after somebody says The End. It just doesn't make sense.

For what it's worth, I finally found the page where I saw the injector check a long time ago. I don't know where 6 ohms came from... Side note, the injectors obviously aren't that picky, since the tolerance is 1ohm all around. The dropping resistor for each however, definitely 5 ohms. I suppose you could play it safe and put in a 100w pack of them so long as they are 5 ohms each, or .8 ohms all together. If you go cheap and get bulk silver band resistors one could be off by a whole .5 ohms, however. Other than that I doubt pack arrangement does much of anything.

Wow, those are a lot of big words. Seems like everybody's beating around the bush...I'm just gonna go ahead and say it. LS1. The End

In case anyone was thinking of trying my mechanical solution, I have an update. The pot metal weld stuff didn't work too well for me. It might work for an expert, but I was having a hard time getting it to soak in the rod. However, I was able to just straight up epoxy it together and it seemed to work fine...I went over a gnarly speed bump the other day at like 2mph and, albeit my suspension has yet to be updated or stiffened since the 26 swap, it got a little rough and the trans hit the post just right to break off not the end of the sender itself, but the cap from the cable. Rather than by a new cable and hope for the best, I'm going to get a z32 (confirm that any manual will work?) sender and get rid of the cable all together. Of course that means I'll need a non-stock gauge of some sort (I'm exploring options) but the speedo didn't read properly anyhow. It was reading 20% low on the r180 (perhaps a different cog would have helped, but probably not enough, plus I'm getting the r200 soon.). If you're moving the post anyway, I suppose this wouldn't apply, however you'll still have to go to a shop and have a calibrated adapter box or something put in to get it to work with the stock gauge after your whole drivetrain is set in stone.

Tomorrow if all goes as planned I'm going to get some aftermarket o2 sensors and see if I can get them to work. Plus I started an injector cleaner fuel additive, I have no idea if these things work, but what the heck. When that doesn't work, I'll take my injectors in to be checked and cleaned. If after all that, the engine still doesn't run smooth, I'm going to have to do some serious testing of the ignition system I guess. Coil pack tests, ignitor check if there is a way to do so, etc. Hope it doesn't get to that. Anyway, the reason I'm here is because I got the door panels on (if anyone is interested). If you're just now tuning in, Ray makes glass and cf door panel skins for these boys, tend to be cheaper than buying new cardboard doors, albeit a lot more work. I planned to eventually have them covered (if and when I have the interior reupholstered) but for the heck of it I thought I'd try just painting them semi black. It wasn't easy because the resin came fairly porous and I don't have a whole lot of experience with bondo and filler. Anyway, I riveted the old metal trim onto the skin and riveted on new window fuzzies to that. It snaps in with plastic rivets (not the best fit I'll admit because I eyeballed the holes to be drilled and it was hell getting the latch hole that came with the skin to line up with the latch bezel. It would all look nicer if I sprung for new door hardware, especially the armrest. The downside however, is that it will probably be soon to show scratches etc. and look dusty much more readily than if it were texture vinyl covered like the originals. Plus the latch bezel won't go flush unless the mount is flattened down since the skins are thinner now. But oh well, it was kinda fun making them, and they look cool for now if'n you don't look real close like. Edit: Incidentally, you can also see one of my new mirrors, an oem driver side mirror flipped over. I know they're not symmetrical, but it's hard to tell.

The tacho, I tried to resistor up and I couldn't get it to read from the ecu #7. Which one is supposed to be the tach signal here? There's a white wire that doesn't even look connected, just screwed on and loops around, black band on one side, red on the other. Then there's two wires hard mounted to a little terminal block. And of course the 4 instrument lights around the sides... The 4 main wires go to a plug just downstream of the tach and all change color, but none of the colors seem to line up with the z diagram. Also, a picture of the torn trans mount. It's easy to mis unless you put pressure on it. My dad couldn't even find the tear after I removed it. The isolators installed on the fuel pump. Other than being in the garage and before ignition, I can't even hear it anymore. If they don't last, I'll have to make the holes larger and upgrade to the 1/4" size, which is the next up from these 8-32s The o2 sensor wiring. It still doesn't make sense that the wires on the o2 sensors themselves (red, white, black) would go to different things. I might try cutting the wires from the one that doesn't seem to work and rearranging them to match the other in case they were just a mismatch. Does anyone else have access to their wires to see what the order is? It seems that the engine runs smoothest the first 10-15 seconds after starting, which is probably the closed loop time since these sensors are heated and should go open loop rather quickly. It doesn't struggle to idle when cold like it did before, and there's no significant power loss when trying to drive when it's cold, so it has definitely improved, but I'm not quite there.

So the ignition on the o2 sensors was bunk for whatever reason, didn't want to tear apart the entire loom to find out. The plugs were installed pretty janky like, as with many of the wires from the stock loom, soldered and taped over. Anyway, I knew that 45 went right by there because I had to tap it for something else down the line, so I just T'ed it and now the o2 sensors "work." The rear one may not be working though, when I unplug it the reading doesn't seem to change, whereas if I unplug the front, it pretty much goes dead. The engine still has that slight miss and runs about the same, however. Does the o2 reading normally spike on closing the throttle? It seems like the reading would normaly be more like 10, but I don't know much about that stuff. It generally bounces around 5 or so, but when I let off, it jumps all over and pegs the gauge. Observe.

Duh to me. I was still caught up with the exhaust entering, but I guess that's mostly just when it's off. Seems that when it is on cabin air, no air needs to exit, But on vent air from the front of the car, well there you go.

The air intake is under the emblems?

There should be a plug that the resistor pack goes right into, however it's quite possible that it wasn't included when you got the harness because there are a few sub engine harnesses aside from the main loom (mine came with neither) for things like hicas etc. However, it should be easy to make a new plug or just splice the wires directly together. All the injector resistor wires are on the same plug in the main engine harness (mixed with a few others), but that plug isn't the same shape as the resistor pack one. Look for a pair of rectangle plugs with 8 leads on one and 7 on the other. All six injector wires are on one side, I belive they are each yellow with a different stripe.

Yeah aftermarket digital ones are calibrated in a snap, and priced accordingly. Well, the trans doesn't know the difference between kph and mph, but I assume you mean that the foreign speedos had a different range? What I mean is, if the domestic ones go up to 160mph, I would think that the foreign ones would go up to 260kph and would thus be interchangeable because the only difference is what the face has written on it. That's interesting though if not true. When all else fails, using the old speedo is a good start so long as the trans speedo drive is designed the same way. Using the old temp and oil sensors works too if they are compatible with the new engine, but unfortunately mine weren't. My speedo was bound to be off, I'm surprised it's not off more than it is. The wheels are smaller, the final drive is way lower, and my gauge undoubtedly doesn't go as high as the skyline ones. Plus I'm seeing that even the skyline gauges have a lot of flexibility. At first I thought the three different size cogs were just for different final gears, but now I'm seeing that there were different gauge cluster options that seem to have had a variety of speed ranges.

You're gonna have to explain what you mean by banks I guess, I'm not totally getting it. Are you talking about having a series of groups? If you had 2 groups of 3 6ohm resistors and the banks were connected in series, the total resistance would be 4 ohms, for example.

I hacked off the end of the rb one and stuck my mechanical fitting onto it. However getting the two pieces to stay together was a challenge because it's some sort of pot metal. If I had a better lathe, I would have tapped them and screwed them together or something. All in all, since my mechanical gauge is off and I'm having trouble getting the tach to work, I may just have to eventually spring for new digital gauges, in which case I'll have to go back to an electronic sensor. I think a z32 one would work, and be cheaper than getting a new rb sensor. In retrospect I believe certain rb26 sensors where mechanical, so there's one alternative. I only modified the rb25 sensor because it was broken anyway and I thought I might as well try and save a few bucks.

Hey I noticed that too! I just don't have ms paint.

When all resistors in parallel are the same value, then you just divide one value by the total number.

It's amazing how some threads just vanish overnight and are never heard from again.

In case anyone was curious, with the red cog on the speedo and the stock 3.364 it's pretty much reading 20% low. When It reads 40mph I'm actually going 50. Also, my last tank of gas averaged me 23mpg, which I'm fairly happy about. My friends maxima gets him about 16, and so did my last car, plus this is on par with my dads tacoma I was used to driving before, only twice the horsepower.

2 banks? That's interesting, each bank splits off into three? Why did you decide to do it that way? I'm sure everyone is talking about only putting resistors in parallel. Doesn't really matter how you do it, the the whole pack is going to be like 1 ohm and 60 watts. It could really be one fat resistor, but then each resistor has it's own wire anyway and radio shack doesn't sell 1 ohm 60 watt resistors... I would speculate too that the injectors aren't really pulling 4 amps because they are only actually on a fraction of the time, but I'm not sure how they figured that into the equation when they prescribed these resistance values so I figured when in rome, but I digress. We're all just too cheap to pay the 50 bucks for the actual resistor pack, heh. Edit: I can't remember exactly how power is figured in a circuit, but if the whole circuit is 8ohm at 12v, then it's running 18w right? That doesn't mean the resistor is dissipating all of it though, 13.5w by my calculations, but again this would only be if the injector was always on.

I've heard about certain models bottoming out etc. using original shafts, didn't know about the shortnose/longnose length difference. Not too many people putting short centers in long housings I guess. Do you know about how modern motorsports says to reverse the inner race to shorten the cvs a little so they will fit? I don't know if that partains to using short or longnose, the kits they sell don't specify a certain nose type.

Wow, a lot of unique stuff. Custom strut brace, oil catch can, large presure radiator, small battery (sealed?). Not many people slant the ic either, was it too large or for other reasons? Not to pick at it, but I've heard the bov is best closest to the tp as possible, does it make any real difference? You must have a good welder too. Edit: two blowoffs? And filtered even, crazy.

I'm not sure about the software being compatible with apexi, but the cable is designed to plug into the odb1 for these cars. The cable and softwares from blazt are $128.50 from their website, but ask jerryb, he's a distributor of sorts. Blazt also says their cable works with other software and they list a few, so if you're apexi has an odb1 style cable, it might work with the appropriate software.

I finally got datascan to work (thanks to jerryb)! First thing I noticed was that the o2 is not reading at all, even though there are no trouble codes. That said, there's no trouble code for the speed sensor, which is not even hooked up. Secondly, the panel says it is running lean? Thirdly, when I shut off cylinders one by one, #5 doesn't make that much of a difference. Unless it's just me, that one's not running right. I can't remember if it has a clean injector or not, I'll have to start all over troubleshooting. I'm not real keen on what all the gauges should look like, here's a blurry picture for the hell of it, taken at a warm idle on a hot afternoon. On a side note, it seems that with the ka temp sensor, 180F is dead center of the gauge. My fan doesn't kick on til about 200 because of a 20 deg loss between the engine and the sensor. Also, I flushed the fluid yesterday (it was pretty gross since I hadn't done it before, only filled it). and now it's running noticeably cooler. Doesn't hardly ever get above center gauge, and the fan only kicks on after sitting still for a few minutes. Before the temp would get up to 200 for short periods even on the highway.

I know I'm beating a dead horse, but I had one inquiry because mine is like birmanz and I have the 3/4 slave as well. I hear that the nismo slave being larger makes easier but longer travel? That's the last thing I need, however I don't want to overstiffen the clutch action in reducing the travel with a smaller slave. Does getting a larger master make the action stiffer as well, or just push more fluid and fix both problems?

I guess torque was the wrong word. I meant speed, whipping force, a term I just made up. A smaller gear means the wheels will go faster, sooner. If the ratio was 1000:1 I don't recon they would ever break loose no matter how much power you had because there is barely any wheel acceleration--you're crawling even at full throttle. Whereas 1:1 would break loose very easily even with little power, because they are coerced to spin more rapidly and something has to give. When the wheels don't break loose at all it's because there is too little power to overcome the friction to the street, hence getting wheels with better traction for higher power applications. I was thinking that increasing the ratio also helps keep the wheels down because the power is applied more smoothly. Am I wrong on this assumption?

OH, jeff I think I got it. I didn't see the taller in there. You're saying the main reason people get taller gears (which is to stay on boost longer) is the very thing that makes the car harder to drive.