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I just made an edit, I don't know if you caught it. My only speculation for the bov filter would be that in practice they must not totally seal all the way? Designed not to let air out, but off boost there must be a venturi sucking air in against the spring pressure. Either way it's not like the valve is gaping open and will pick up pebbles or anything. Sad day on the recirc. I guess you gotta do what you gotta, it shouldn't be too much trouble. I never got that venting to the atmostphere deal, it would be one thing if we were blowing off after a carb or something, but I mean, it's warm air for crying out loud, it's even less poluted than it went in because it passed a filter once already am I right?

Awesome man. I look forward to reading it. I too took a bunch of pictures and promised I'd do a writeup, have yet to complete one though. Did you post a thread about your findings? I wonder if it is a common problem. Mike, I'll try to take some better pictures with it all in place. I have pictures of the original pieces on here, but not really how they mate each other. Your upside down inlet could work, how much clearance do you have? It seems like it might go a little on the low side unless you're making a u-turn and facing a filter straight up? If I get rid of the mafs like you, I'll probably try to get the filters out front and possibly combined into one though. I guess it just depends on where you have room for your intake to come from. The bpv does go to both turbo inlets. The flange mounted on the front turbo has a short tube coming out the side and the rubber tube that mounts on that upright for the rear turbo has a port on it already, sticking straight out to the side. This port is routed down where it Ts into the other port and up from there to the top of the radiator, accross to the bpv. The black vacuum line goes to a small port on the aac (could just as well tap into the intake plenum) and is a "sensing line" for closed throttle. I'm not sure it works efficiently or not, but the bpv seems to open fine under it's only spring pressure setting when I close the throttle and I don't have any compressor surge or anything, so I'm fine with it. In retrospect, if you've trashed the mafs anyway, you'd probably be better off just blowing it off, wouldn't you? Recirculating doesn't make it more efficient or anything (although I've heard people claim bov's allow unfiltered air to seep into the intake??) -- more like the opposite, but the difference is moot, the biggest difference is just that blowing off will be louder... By the way, what did you use to get your covers so shiny, couldn't have just been a polshing wheel. I've wanted to do that to my ic plumbing and whatnot, especially that rough turbo collector. Oh yeah, my ic was 31" wide before I cut off the inlets I believe. Pretty snug now, barely misses the hood on the corners and hinges at the elbows. People were saying they had to do modifications (like lowering the core relatve to the inlets or something) to avoid the hood and the springs, I don' have springs but it doesn't look like there would be a problem if I did. I think the main thing was that people were trying to get silicone elbows on inlets that went straight out. My solution was to weld on elbows so that the radius is tighter and fits through the holes that are already in the radiator wall. The elbows I got were cast to get that angle, not mandrel bent, you could weld angles out of straight pipe and get the same results though. Even on the case elbows I cut off the straight part of the welded side because I didn't need to slip anything over, just needed it right where the bend starts. It's still pretty easy to install and get the clamps on though, so I was very pleased not having to cut off the core caps and make narrower ones or anything.

You mean the rubber elbow deal? No it's still in the rear. I cut it short at the part where it would accordion to fit the maf and made a 45 with flange for the filter. For the front I made a straight inlet flange to replace the angled one and ported in the recirc tube towards the bottom (pretty tight fit) later on when I realized I needed it for the mafs to work properly (also had to make a down elbow for the recirc port on the rear rubber intake. From there I used a 45 hose and aluminum couple to attach the filter. Note that the filters I used were 10 degree offset so there was a little fudge factor, perfect for adjusting it to just clear the radiator and the ic plumbing. It looks nice the way everything ended up fitting together snuggly in my opinion, but time will tell if there are rubbing issues from the engine rocking back and forth etc. Getting rid of the mafs completely would erradicate that intake plumbing dilemma though. I hope that answered your question.

Hey that looks like a good spot for the blinkers if not in the gauge.

Those are sick. Look stockish too! Did you use the original bezels and just take out the lenses?

Well it ain't over yet, and will never be. There's no such thing as done! Before I do anything to the engine I still need to take care of the interior and such. Leaks like hell too. But I got some power, I'll soon have some traction, and I have some tunes to keep me company on the road and drown out all that ruckus from the highway.

You're telling me. It took me 20 min just to take out the tach and even longer to put it back in with those stupid wingnuts. I lose one, no idea where it is under there. You have to force back all the other crap and the heater ducts to jam it back in. I wonder how hard it would be to customize a gauge to include signals etc. Say I got a speedo and took it apart, if there was enough room to retrofit the original arrow lenses and lightbulbs, as well as get the thing back together. Maybe even retrofit a fuel gauge or something to have my own custom dual sweep? That would be intense. The msd one probably makes it impossible since there has to be room inside for the led needle to spin. Otherwise put some small holes in the dash bezel itself for the turn lights? It wouldn't look too original though unless I was really crafty about it. But the bezels are pretty deep, I'm sure something stylish could be designed, like a tiny pod for the arrow lenses.

The silver does look good. In the catalog they looked white and I assumed so, but silver is much better.

Cool deal! Drop a picture when it's near completion. I decided the heck with the stock gauges when I couldn't get my tach to work with the rb ecu, and the mechanical speedo broke so I had to put in a slimmer electric one. I was even thinking about getting an aftermarket gauge and putting my old face on it so that it would look original and be the perfect size -- that's the major drawback with the aftermarket ones, they are either too big or too small to fit like stock.

Um, this is MSD we're talking about here, it's spelled lazer. But no, sadly it doesn't. I'm sure it could be customized, but it only comes with a one color led on a spinning wheel like how those floating clocks work. Either way, I'm liking that gauge more and more, I just wish I could see them installed to help make up my mind. Also, if i could get the 5" to fit, they have a tach/boost double swing version.

I haven't seen any threads on posting people's aftermarket gauges and I wanted to do it myself but am very indecisive. We have threads for everything else, why not gauge clusters? I'm planning on putting gauges in the stock places (the only problem is that the three small gauges are combo and not too many companies make useful small combos so I'd be short handed and have to put a fuel gauge or something elsewhere). I'd also like all the gauges to match, so I'm looking for a really cool set. Let's see your custom dashes for inspiration! At first I thought to keep them looking original, but what the heck, this is HYBRIDz. So now I'm torn between an autometer traditional sweep (backlit) like the ES or Cobalt series, or the stewart warner green line gauges for that vintage look, or msd lazer for a modern look. Maybe even a digital readout would look good. The one turnoff about the needle gauges is they almost always come in red, and if not, they aren't backlit like I enjoy. The digital gauges usually look boring when they are off because the entire screen goes blank (except the msd which combines both). I could however put my own logo in the center where the needle would be and make it more custom instead of a huge brand name they slap on there. Examples: Help!

Well I'm not a math expert but I believe less weight = faster, so yeah we definitely don't want more weight. That's why you should also put in speed holes. Think about it. Yeah I don't like covers either. I like solids. Cold hard steel etc., nothing rough, rubbery, sticky etc. That stuff just seems like a germ and dirt magnet to me. Like how there's always crap stuck to people's keys and in the cracks on their shift knob, nobody cleans that stuff. Maybe it's just me. Keep up the good work though, it's gonna be legit with all the custom addons.

indeed. aviation style, with rubbers. and a massive selector. Oh you sure come up with the craziest ideas. I can't wait to see the panel. I've always wanted to make my interior look like a cockpit with a million cbs and whatnot, but I couldn't get myself to do it unless each switch actually had a purpose.

M/T (27 spline), please. Last piece to the r200 puzzle. Thanks!

More than likely. MS specifically states 240 stubs won't work, I just wasn't looking closely enough until now.

I'll have to check as I don't remember the actual order of the wires. At first it was though the ground wasn't hooked up because the wire in the loom was a dead end, but I think I fixed that. Don't you find it strange that the colors of the wires aren't the same on both sensors though? Fixing the ground didn't seem to make much of a difference, so I was hoping to just replace them, but it's hard to find them reasonably priced and I don't know of any equivalents. I hope the leak is just the gasket then, or if it's my imagination and the whole thing is solved by cleaning the injectors that would be nice too.

Yes, I'm crossing my fingers. On a side note, I believe I have confirmed that I will need the 280z stubs because the 240z don't match. The modern motorsports companion flange is 27 spine to match the m/t 280z and the 240z's all were 25 spline. So it looks like I'll be doing the whole shebang in one phase.

What do you mean stuffed? I posted a wanted ad here and got a response right away. Don't know about part numbers or anything. They are also on ebay sometimes, usually one at a time, and may or may not have a core charge, so they can be pricey.

I began tallying up how much I've spent so far just for gits and shiggles. car: 2000.00 engine/trans: 3000.00 swap: 4418.11 I didn't bother to count what I've been spending on restoring the car here and there, just powertrain related stuff. Also, I still need gauges . I supposed I could've just bought a barnfind l88 vette minus engine for that much... Can't complain too much on the swap though, I was able to get a bunch of free crap and welding done. I know most of the people here claim it's like a 10k job to do the project even yourself, or 15k to have someone else do it, or 25k if you buy all the parts from mkinney . Not technically done yet though, it has to purr like a kitten first. I keep saying I'm going to clean the injectors, and I might this week. I ran out of fuel treatment, didn't do jack obviously. At first I had my hopes up, but I think I jinxed it, when last week it ran totally smooth for 3 days straight. I mentioned that sometimes it will smooth out for a minute, but never that long. I don't get how something can go away for a while like that... Also, I didn't think of the vacuum leak coming from the throttle cam, has anyone ever experienced this? Since the shaft goes through all the throttle boddies, I assume there could be a bad o-ring in there somewhere. It's probably an old crusty tb casket though, when I had the plenum off, I noticed those things are like glass, should've replaced them then while it was easier. Also, one step closer to the new diffy install. I got the diffy itself, the mustache bar and verticals for the hell of it from azcar, and the cv's are on the way. When they get here I'll find out if I can use my old stubs for now, or if I have to get the new ones with companion flanges from modernmotorsports, and thus new rims and bigger tires to boot. That's the eventual plan anyway.

year shouldn't matter so long as they are in good shape. I already have the diff though. How much are you asking?

The 4-bolt cv's from a turbo 300zx, both please. Anyone?

Just put more zipties on it and you'll be fine. You mean the mustache bar for the diffy? Yeah, that crossbrace is just for the suspension verticals--keeps the a-arms square. I thought welding on them would make them brittle or crack because the original steel is heat treated, but hey if it works, I'm putting in a finned cover soon so I'll have to do something similar. Probably not that crucial so long as they work. I already drilled holes in my verticals to mount a fuel pump, which will have to move with the new diffy install. Kudos!

Awesome. Awesome to the max. This thread is most entertaining.

They are likely all fired separately since they each have their own wire and resistor going through the whole wiring loom, but don't leave it up to us to figure out what's best, just mimic the oem pack!