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Blue, thanks for the input. I gather that now in looking for a longnose I shall stay away from anything before 84? My one speculation is that if the center I bought were 10mm I'd just have to make sure it came with the ring or I got a 10mm ring seperately, so long as the splines will accept the 300 cv's. Albeit, those are probably harder to find since there's going to be less shelf support for the 280 than the newer 300. Unless, that is, if you mean to say the centers for the later models with 12mm bolts simply don't fit in the 280 long nose and the only way is to get a long nose from a 300. If so, this opens the can of worms that involves fitting a 300 diff into the 240. I'd need a custom mustache no less, right? Or just a matching cover from a 280 diff? I think I just made myself more confused than I was previously.

I'm not sure I'm picking up what you're putting down. Did you mean put load on the motor longer so I'm not on boost all the time? Why where you always having to change gears--the peak powerband was at an inconvenient speed for any gear? I would think having a wide rev range would help make it easy to find a comfortable gear for any speed, but of course I'm not the one who has actually tried it. The problem as I see it is that I'm delivering too much torque to the wheels as is, meaning the throttle seems to snap on more like a light switch than it should. I can barely roll it on in any gear without spinning the tires because the gear seems too low and they just break loose. Plus on the highway I barely get out of third and don't even really use fifth because it's too low. I'd rather have a 3.90 than a 4.11 because a taller gear isn't great for highway use and taxes mileage. The 4.11 on the gtr's seemed to work and they probably had bigger tires than I. High gears are admittedly not as user friendly, and something like 4.11 sounds like more for a drag queen, but I'm hoping to find a happy medium. I mean, if I can't keep the wheels down at all, then there's no point in ever getting any more power than I already have, I'm already wasting some by not being able to throttle even 75%, unless I'm just missing something. A penny for your thoughts?

AH! I'll have to check mine, as I hear that same awful noise over speed bumps. I hear the accel/shift noise as well, but I think that's the front mount (worn strap).

Okay, so according to the z parts wiki The only clsd r200 came in the 5/87-89 z31t and it is a 3.700. Not a huge step up though. I'm pretty sure the one I have is a standard 3.364 r180. I haven't heard anything suggesting that the short nose and long nose diffies dont interchangeable centers except for that 90-96 q45 with 30 splines (but I've heard the helicals might not match up) so this still doesn't rule out getting any aftermarket r200 clsd that's closer to 4.000. That or getting the 3.700 and just buying a new ring...

So basically all the long nose r200's have 29 splines and only the 90-96 q45 short noses have 30? Do we know if all the 29 spline r200 centers (aside from the possible helical mismatch) are interchangeable?

I put in the replacement oil sender the other day. So far at idle it's now reading about 60psi in the morning and 30psi once warm.

Well I don't know if I can do 9s or not anytime soon, but I'd like to have some real power yet reliability on a daily. The plan so far is to turn it up to a bar and go power fc after I redo the interior. It's just that right now my diffy sounds like it's in pain and I'd like to do something about it before it takes a dump. I think the modern motorsports stubs and flanges are necessary if you use the 280 or 300 half shafts. Otherwise I could use the 240 half shafts but they become the weakest link and I've heard they are left with a little more play because the fit loose. Yeah, the z31 center is probably solid enough despite the skimpier clutch pack. One thing I was unsure of though is how to make sure I get a 4 pinion. In the diff thread Jon seems to go back and forth on whether 280s and z31s all had 4 or only if some did, unless I read wrong. Perhaps he meant that all the lsd are 4 pinion, but not all models had the lsd. I know it's pretty much impossible, but ideally I'd like to have access to almost all the parts before I get started since it's my only method of transportation, which is why I ask. That and I don't want to buy stuff on false pretenses.

Okay, so I've read the differential sticky a couple times and it's all a bit over my head. I'd like to convert to an lsd r200 soon (need a higher gear to boot) and I want to make sure I buy the right stuff, build it to last, etc. What is the bottom line for a solid rear end that is very functional and hopefully doesn't break the bank? To start, at least mine is a 72, so I don't have to worry about the forward mount issue. From what limited understanding I have, it seems that there are a lot of if's in the swap department. For instance, if I get a short nose I'll need to get a longer drive shaft and remanufacture the mount. If I get a finned cover, I need to move the sway bar. If I get a late model, I need to either use older half shafts or buy the necessary adapters. The list goes on. It seems like a long nose, 3.9, four pinion, strong clsd, cv shaft diff doesn't exist, and the next closest things are very rare, so here's what I assume to need in order to retrofit my own. Please chime in if I'm missing something such as mismatches, more necessary parts, or things to watch out for in purchasing the items.The problem to me lies in the fact that the older differentials are the proper shape but lack the quality of the newer, while the newer differentials have the quality in strength, but lack the physical interchangability of the older ones. The solution then is to get an old pumpkin and a new center, or at least a different one that will bolt up. 1. A 280 r200 long nose housing to mount in the original 240z location 2. An aftermarket clsd center (unless another r200 variant will match up?)* 3. A 280 mustache bar to mate the new cover 4. Z31T cv's to clear the sway bar and add strength 5. modern motorsports stub axles and companion flanges *Obviously the amount of money one can spend is limitless in this area. What I'm looking for is something about or just under 4:1, and 4-pinion so that it will deliver and not fail. Also, the old clutch packs are known to be skimpy, but the viscous are to my knowledge not as aggressive and can have slip problems if not treated right, so an aftermarket clsd with a thicker pack seems to be the solution as long as I can find one to mount up. I would think that for all intents and purposes, I'm just looking for a 280z upgrade. The third option is a helical clutch, but I'm unfamiliar with those, so anyone want to give a synopsis of the pros and cons? On a side note, would it prove more difficult to find good long nose internals than shortnose, or are they interchangeable? of course if anyone knows of a long r200 clsd that is already good to go, then stop me now. In terms of odds and ends, it would be nice to incorporate Ron Tyler's front mount remedy or something to that effect. So, what's the total?

Now that's an air filter.

Engine wise, it's not quite done but is very sound. Just a few little things to smooth out (waiting for a few parts still). Mechanical wise, it hasn't even begun. Interior wise, it's just started.

Did you try again? I see the first pic but it doesn't have the trans specified so when it had you click one you may have just clicked the wrong one? Those europeans are always backwards anyway though. Will do on the oil sender. Mine generally shows about 1/8 gauge at most, 20psi, and never gets to half way so yeah probably the same problem as yours, but I have no reason to believe the pressure is actually low. Does synthetic corrode any metals or plastic? That's strange. I ran mineral for a hundred miles or so partly because the old oil never totally drained out and yeah it had been sitting a while, so I made sure it was nice and hot before draining it. I'm sure it's also a good practice to use mineral after disrupting the cylinders with new rings etc. I'm gonna wash it today and get some pictures, I swear!

So's your face

Yeah, I have no tach yet either. I'm thinking of trying that fix from the tach thread. I am in dire need of a new diff and wheels. Can't go past 75% throttle in any gear without completely losing traction. I would think that the range of each sensor would be linear, so the only thing you need to find is the resistance at two temps to see how they match up. I did the same thing basically. Had two meters side by side and read off both sensors at the same time. Funny though, my temp gauge stays just above center. I recently put a 180/170 fan switch in because the 190 was faulty (opening at 210) and it's staying consistent now--I think it goes a little past the center before evening out when the fan kicks on. Where the switch is located on the radiator there is about a 20 degree loss so it's actually something like a 200/190 switch. I may just adapt it to the radiator hose in the future. I'm also showing low oil pressure, but I'm not at all sure if the sender is working properly (using the old l6 one). I went to synthetic yesterday (10w30), perfect timing too as it was free bosch filter with royal purple purchase. Gauge reads the same as before, about 40 when cold, and like 10 at warm idle, topping off at 30 in high revs...

I finally got a nissan contact in the states today. I've been to three different dealers looking for someone who can order off of part numbers and there's one right by me. The guy says he can get the isolator for about $50. Careless: In my fast 70T01 is the manual trans, 72T01 is the automatic. Don't know if they are actually different or not...

Mike, do you have a link to that part? I'm unfamiliar with holden parts. It's kinda hard to see in your pictures the exact shape of the mount.

I'm looking for the isolator itself. You're saying all of these models have the same crossmember, but a different trans configuration so the isolator won't fit?

I found out what the clunking noise is. The left side of the tranny mount is torn half way through and the trans bolt end is bouncing up and down on the mount face. I don't know how it happened, must have been cracked or something before I put it on. Anyone know where to get a new mount? I'm having trouble finding just the tranny mount by itself instead of in a kit with the engine mounts for some outrageous price. Do the silvia or z31 mounts work? They look a lot alike, anyone know if the bolt spacing is the same?

My build shows just that, as well as the thread on the discrepancy between cable and electronic senders. Lathed off the head of the electronic unit and soldered on the head of my original s30 unit. Then welded the respective shaft ends together.

At first I was skeptical. But now, seeing them in the dash, awesome.

This is for the rb to work with the 240z gauge, or the 300zx?

Yeah, I was gonna do the cliche driveby video, perhaps today after I give my baby a bath! Not do diss the l28 or anything. As much as I love the rb, I'm sure I would love the l28 equally if I had sweat over one for as long. Truth be told I don't know if I have the genius to squeeze as much power out of the oldschool muscle as I'm eventually planning on going for, so I spent more money upfront to start with a platform that's a little ahead. I'm not much of a builder, more of a start with what bolts on guy. I'm hoping that the newer design will pay some mileage dividends as well.

Final pictures and swap writeup to follow in the oncoming spare times.

Dropped it off at the muffler shop yesterday and picked it up today for $400. He said $300 before he knew that he had to make the flanges and collector. It was a little more than I thought but worth it. Doing it myself would be a pain and there's no way I could make it look as good or tuck it in as nice. It has a curve through magnaflow and sounds pretty nice. Not too loud, low and good tone, I'm very pleased. Just under a year and I could not stand it! I got a ddl diagnostics cable from Jerryb that should arrive in the mail shortly with nissan datascan so hopefully I can find that slight miss easily and test everything. I haven't cleaned the o2 sensors yet but will next thing. Also, I'm giving an injector to a bosch guy to test and see if he has something like it cheap. If they are dirty I can have them cleaned or get new ones. I already got 4 new ones to replace the three that were no good from the start and recently that one that was making the engine run a little rough, should have just got all six to begin with. Evan might have been right about regretting not getting the fly surfaced right away. I wouldn't want to waste the money though and it shouldn't be hard to do it now if I have to. The car gets a little shaky grabbing first gear from idle, but I won't know if it has anything to do with the fly being uneven until I can rule out the miss being amplified under load. It's probably not clutch related. How much sound do you guys hear from the engine? Now that I have the exhaust under control, the valvetrain sound seems a little louder, and I can hear the turbines chatter a little shortly after closing throttle. It doesn't really sound like surge which I should be able to recognize, and I can hear the bov opening right away, so perhaps it's just turbo noise? I've never had a turbo personally so I'm babying it because I don't know what to look for . That said, on the drive home I opened it up, and by opened it up I mean just cracked the lid and let it fizzle, the car shits and gits compared to what I'm used to I mean on paper it's got at least twice as much power as the old engine anyway. The chassis does feel a little heavier now, not that it makes a difference. I'm also used to driving a truck that can go into first gear uphill without any throttle or practically shift without the clutch and not miss a beat, so the first gear rumble could even be me rooking out, ha! A little more gas than normal evens it out and the rest of the drive is solid, although my diff still thumps every shift (next on the list) even with the new driveshaft. That miss is definitely all through the powerband so it's gotta be a fuel delivery problem. I'll test the current through the resistors as well as the resistance through the coils if I don't find anything sooner. Also, the fuel pump is a lot noisier than I thought it would be. It's right under the tool box so down the line maybe I'll tar under it or deaden the inside or something to help calm it down. Loose ends: The fan switch doesn't work so I jumped it to always on. Needs replacing. Need to buy that speedo cable for 50 bucks or whatever. Need to tap in somehow for the electronic tach. Will either turn out simpler than I thought or much harder. Oh yeah, and redo the whole interior, weatherstripping, rims, suspension... Eh, maybe next year. For now I'm just gonna drive the hell out of it. Right after I go to the dmv and get it back to op status.

Yeah, I wasn't sure how to check for vacuum leaks but I learned a new trick for it. I'll definitely have to check my bov because it is generic, I don't think it is this problem but would be very inefficient if it were leaking as well. That's interesting about the mafs, I'll have to look into it. BTW, you said you were looking for a way to read trouble codes earlier right? If you have the odb1 plug still in your harness (or you can buy one if you find the wires) you can get the nissan consult cable and the datascan software to not only read codes but troubleshoot, test, and somewhat tune from a laptop. I'm at the end of wiring everything and looked into getting the check engine light to work just the other day and found the cable on ebay for under $200.

Wow, sounds like we had the same problem. Any new info, is it all squared away now? One of my mafs was connected wrong like yours and it was hunting and running very rich. After I fixed the wiring, it ran better but my plugs were all fouled up. That maf is running like the other, so I think it survived the faulty wiring. I'm thinking the o2 sensors may be fouled as well since I ran it for a while at such a rich state. Now it's running slightly lean. I trust my fuel pump, but I did take off the aac once too, so I'll have to check for vacuum leaks as well.