getoffmyinternet

Either way, I bought one already, but I'll look it up to ease my curiosity anyhow.

I was totally kidding! It is just as valid a question as any. We'll have to find people with these respective management systems who have actually done away with some of the nonstandard engine components or emissions crap to see how theirs handle. I guess it would depend on the brain itself, but I don't know that the stock ecu itself is particularly flawed in sluggish management response or anything to make it handle getting rid of something like idle air any worse than an aftermarket ecu would. Maybe the others manage at a higher idle or simply enforce a slower engine deceleration regardless of how quickly you pull back on the throttle... I never really thought about the ramifications of using an aftermarket ems that isn't designed to use all the existing components, like with a generic one harness fits all type fit. Could be dire indeed, or at least interesting to install and tune.

I don't want to sound like a hypocrite, but isn't this thread about ecu's or something? I asked about getting rid of the aac, and I think it was jerryb that told me he got rid of it, the only complications being on a really really cold morning, which I disregarded , and snap idle--something to do with turbo dump I guess--where he would have to feather the gas a little to keep it from dying for a second. I just opted to leave mine in for now at least.

Really? How does that setup sound? Magnas might be a little loud for me though. I saw your album, but I don't have the downpipe. I guess that wouldn't cost TOO much extra. A bit of work though. I'll see what a shop charges for the heck of it. Actually I heard that they also have cylinders on demand now. I didn't know gm ever started that. I thought it was just the newer mopar so-called hemis. Don't you still have the stock t25s? I would be deathly afraid to boost that high, unless you have the steel turbine version that they used on the nurspecs. Especially since mine is an r32.

I haven't heard anything like that really. At first I was thinking of looking for an oem type fan because it would probably be cheaper, but I got to lazy for the search. Also, would probably have been too large, and most fans of that sort, especially at that high of a rating, are pretty bulky. On this swap, the balancer is pretty close to the center of the radiator hole, so the fan motor would have to clear it. On a side note, I've heard very mixed things about fans that make it hard to really know how much any given fan really pulls. Most people seem to say that the s-shaped blades pull more, and a lot of more recent car models and name brand fans are like this, but it could very well be a gimmick. In fact, perma cool only sells straight blades, which they specifically say pulls more than s-shaped. Overall though, it's supposed to be a good rule of thumb that about how much air a fan pulls is directly related to how many amps it pulls. If those fans are pulling 3500 cfm, I would expect them to be at least 25 amps. Many fans claim to be as high but in the same stride say they only pull ten, so does this make them just superefficient or what? If the blades themselves suck less air, then a motor at the same amperage draw should be able to simply spin faster to the point of equilibrium efficiency. In fact, the perma cool 12" fans are reported to pull the same amount as the 16" fans, due to the fact that they spin 50% faster--I believe the amperage draw is the same.

Another thing I forgot to mention, while I made my driveshaft 29" overall, after putting it in for some reason it was apparent that it couldn't have hurt to be at least 1/2" longer. There's plenty of bite though as it is. Also, as you can see in the pictures my fuel filter is mounted on whatever that bracket is called that holds up the A-arms. Pain in the ass, so don't bother. I guess it wouldn't have been so bad if I had payed attention in advance to the fact that the piece was hardened steel... On a completely unrelated topic, I have to buy a new set of drill bits now...

I have two new pieces, just haven't taken a picture yet or welded them together. The straight tube is about the thickness of the flange at the base to make it nice and easy to weld up from the inside and not have to worry about the bolt holes getting in the way. Plus it won't warp as easily as thin aluminum pipes. Once again, overkill I know. The new flange, on account of the old one actually being too oddly shaped from the inside, is just a really thick squarish piece that the original hex bolts will go through. Tomorrow I'm going to weld up the gas tank, and probably put up a few more misc. pictures. I just got a nice little postcard from summit: two to four MORE weeks for the balancer to arrive and THEN be shipped to me, meaning at least ANOTHER month until the final fan, shroud, radiator, ic, ic tubing, mafs, and air filters get to be installed--ie. pretty much everything...

"Remember the other day, when you asked me to define 'irony'?" What a precious gift for a girl! Anyways...

LOL! He's posting that randomly, check his history. Bushmaster, are you always drunk when you type?

Your girlfriend has a pressure washer of her own? That's hot. T fitting = something bound to break down

I just meant getting rid of the stock igniter and coils. I've heard a standalone ignition such as msd could provide up to an extra 50hp, especially if you've upgraded the injectors or done any other tunes I imagine due to the stock igniter being somewhat limited in its capabilities.

Basically I'm trying to figure out if there is one method that I can use and stick with pretty much for the duration of owning my car. I don't want to get just what works now and then keep "upgrading" in the future or come to a wall of sorts. That's why I really like the idea of the power fc being able to phase with a laptop, but if stock ecu is fully adjustable that may be just about the same thing in the end. But the power fc ecu plugs right into the rb harness? I was unaware of that--I thought I would have to redo my wiring again to go that route! Also, the word is that outsourcing the efi is a way to unlock some power too, but I wonder if getting the power fc, or just being able to fully tune the stock system will make something like msd ignition unnecessary. If I recall correctly, it was in a different thread that someone mentioned an ems system that had a really strong ignition feature which was like using an msd setup etc. but I don't know if that suggests the other ems systems leave you worse off or not... I guess it's pretty much all down to hearsay. Speaking of hearsay, I also heard that the stock mafs are good to about 600hp (300 each) but what was unclear was whether it was actually the mafs that freak out with more air than that, or the ecu that can't handle the signal properly (tuned or untuned). Any experts on the subject? If it's a pure flow restriction issue, I can't imagine the stock mafs making that much of a bottleneck, unless of course you are using 4" pipes and a huge turbo or something. On the stock turbos however, the inlet itself is the narrowest point at something like 2.25" so the maf sizes themselves seem to be somewhat of a moot point. My understanding is that in map v. maf, the actual precision of each is pretty much a tie, although map I guess would be simpler in form and function. I wouldn't know too much about the position of the mafs in relation to bov's affecting their reading... Ass end bov's seem to be a bit of an overkill to me--like a redundancy that is theoretically unnecessary if the rest of the mechanics is rigged right. It's like how people have ridiculously high flow fuel pumps, only to require an expensive pressure regulator that cuts it way down before the rail; sounds a little counterintuitive to me. But correct me if I'm wrong on the bov situation.

That's great to know. I will seriously consider apexi then when the time comes. Hopefully sooner rather than later...STILL waiting for the ati damper from summit. Breaking the stock one seems to have set me back at least a month...

I'm not thinking it's possible to get 480hp without modifying the internals, specifically forged pistons, but I could be wrong. You'd have to define affordable mods. Halfway decent turbo setups for that much power sure aren't cheap. I imagine you could get past 300 before turbo work though. I almost forgot that people are still calling hp crank hp, just because it's pretty much a pointless consideration and I've all but taken it out of my dictionary. To me hp=whp unless otherwise noted. It is a good point that he could in fact be doing that though. What a waste that would be.

NOICE! ...Okay, seriously, don't you think turbocharging a freaking chainsaw is WAY overdooing it?? Supercharging it would be pretty sweet though. I would list all mine like that, because I'm pretty big on satire myself, but I don't think people would get it. Presently I just got the one engine. I used to have a minibike, goped, and gokart at one time. The good old days... Tinting is also a possibility, but still nothing beats the louvers. I'm not one sided on how the car looks with or without them. It also seems to depend on the car itself--perhaps the color. And some louvers are gawdy.

Do I hear a, "Only in New Hampshire!" ? Your sig that is. Z-YA would make for a nice license plate though. Your louvers are the bolt on, slip in, or stick on type? I wish I could see these on a car to really know what the difference is. What are your guys' preferences?

I don't know if looks can be used at all if you're talking about outside aesthetics, because it's always completely unreliable as a guideline (ricerockets??). I'd say that being engine savvy correlates to spending money on the exterior is also one of those generalizations. I've actually always said half jokingly that I wanted a car that looked like a POS but was a crazy sleeper because to me that would be pretty cool--for one, all the money goes in the engine and nobody is the wiser, secondly, it's even more embarrassing when you smoke somebody. Plus, fierce rust buckets are just hilarious.

Yeah...I didn't mean just throw them out, but you get the idea. I guess the equipment necessary to tune the stock ecu can be purchased for about the same price as just buying a whole new system, but I'm still listening for the pros and cons of either method. I have also heard Wolf is good, and some on here have used it, but I don't know if they make a package designed for this engine or what. I think they're universal type system is a bit challenging to install properly. I've also heard that AEM was going to release a package for the rb and did so quite a while ago, but I have yet to find it.

I saw that, and then I saw that it was a 120Y, and then I changed the channel.

I'm kinda thinking that part about being a member of hybridz wasn't supposed to be taken very seriously. Besides for all we know, the dude is a member--he just isn't looking for threads of his own car for sale. There are 12000 of us, and I've only met like a dozen of you key players so far myself.

Still, I've heard that in it's design and functionality the stock ecu more or less bottlenecks the potential of the engine due to emissions and crap. Does being able to fully tune it negate this? If it does then I can see the definite ease of going this route since it would skip the middleman of installing a standalone that would have to be tuned anyway. ALTHOUGH, as stony said, getting rid of the mafs does as a little extra smelly power to the whole package. I guess if you forbid the computer from knowing the true mixture, then it can't cut back any, leaving you with more than necessary and that little extra kick. Still, I don't know how much I want to suffer at the pump. I'm curious to see what kind of mileage it will get in stock form and go from there. I mean, I'm obviously not all about saving money, but there are ways to make hp gains expensively and ways to do it overexpensively. I just wanna know how the ls7 is supposed to get 25 highway...

Because it's in quotes, it doesn't count. While the rule applies that they can't print it if it ain't true, it is overridden by the rule that within quotes you can say whatever bs you want, because if it were true you wouldn't have used quotes in the first place. It's like saying "literally" and "honestly." "Honestly, that guy literally took his head off." - John Madden

Wow it's funny you mention that. I was on the road today and I did a double take because an evo coming up in my mirror had the middle of the front bumper from the grill down blacked out to match and I was like, I didn't know the GTR was out yet!

I've heard of people selling their virginity on ebay, but now the webmasters watch ads more closely. Still, if you want something that's illegal to be sold on ebay, you can always buy a bag of sand for a couple grand with that item as the free bonus. Or you can buy a mystery item, which is a box covered in question marks, full of the most expensive world class packing peanuts no doubt. Better yet, buy a home depot gift card for one buck less than it's preloaded amount and cash in on the savings next time you need a reciprocating saw. Yeah, I think ebay has cl beat in terms of craftiness. That's a good quote by Daeron. Cl is like the newspaper love ads where everyone's pretending not to be desperate. If you don't get something for at least as low as half what they originally listed it for, you probably got gipped. Although, I'm sure this car is worth at least 5k if'n it gets even 350hp.

I just meant that adding an impending intercooler might change things a little. I don't know about the extra room but if you can see the radiator through the grill and it's in alignment with the plane of the grill opening that is always sharp as well. Can't imagine that it couldn't be done, whether it actually has been or not.