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Actually, by sheer coincidence, the gear that is on my old sensor looks like its exactly the same size as the gear on the new one. I'll find out for sure when I actually get it running though. If you were going to hook it up to your ecu for whatever reason, you could use the highest gear possible and the fuel cut would go up because it thinks you're going slower than you really are, but on the flip side it might not run properly. In this case not connecting it seems to just disable the whole system, whereas with fords and the like, if the speed sensor goes out the car will run like crap.

That is a very good point. I think I have the two pinion 3.54 rear end for now, but am hoping to go somewhere around 3.7 in the near future or when mine breaks, but I'm not very well read on the subject so that may change. For right now I thought I might as well try to make mine mechanical for the hell of it and save a few bucks since I already have the pieces. I just need to buy the 17 tooth gear from nissan. At least, I think mine is 3.54. I'll find out the hard way I suppose. Here's what the rb25 meter housing and my old t5 mechanical end piece look like fresh off the lathe before being welded together. Still have to connect the shafts as well.

That's exactly what I'm doing. It's going to be my daily driver, and hopefully sooner than ten years from now. You can either spend your life making a cherry show car that doesn't run, or you can drop it in, drive it, and if anything breaks or rusts out, cash in your tax return and upgrade it. I'm not too sure about 350hp with an ecu upgrade, but it's a first step, and worth a try, after I get the kinks out of the oem. I'll put it all in writing, I'm a full time student with only one car, and I haven't made that much money in my lifetime...My swap is nearing its fiscal completion. I don't know about it costing more later either unless you plan on breaking literally every bolt under grade 8 in the near future. It's like buying snap-on tools because they last longer, including the socket you only used once ever and the straight edge that didn't exactly require a high torque tolerance. I hate snap-on. They're like the governmental bureaucracy--throw money at the problem to make it look like it must have been fixed. I am. EVERYTHING. I'm afraid to add them up, but by many people's standards it's probably chump change by comparison. Dang, I gotta get me a catalog and start picking stuff out. I hope it's all true. I'm tempted to put it on a dyno any time I upgrade a part to see. I'll for sure do it at the very beginning to see what I'm dealing with at as close to stock as possible. Boost to only 400 after that seems a little low though. N-1 is definitely overrated in terms of hp. It seems that too many people use N-1 and quarter mile races in the same sentence. Lol! But oil and door handle changers get paid good money! Change oil at work, and mod at home. If you mod at work, the only thing you'll want to do for yourself is drink and watch tv. I'm not saying that's a bad thing, it just leaves you sharing the wife's minivan.

Wow, lot's of good stuff. I read through this whole board, and I have a few more questions for you guys. My speed meter on my rb25 trans is just like the one in the pictures, and is also broken. At first I thought that it had to be connected to the ecu for the engine to run properly. A shop friend of mine said that in general an ecu has to know that it is moving at some sort of rate to calibrate itself properly, but this might have just been speculation. So if you guys are sure that it doesn't need to be connected, here are the options. I could buy a new replacement electric one and get an electric gauge to hook it up to. I could try to customize the broken one by welding on a mechanical fitting (assuming the cable will fit under the car) or fork out the money to buy a new mechanical meter (from an rb26??) and use my stock gauge. Here's a thought. If the rb26 meter was mechanical, how did it hook up to the ecu? Was it some sort of combo unit? The cable x thing sounds pretty ridiculous, like just another thing to install under the dash and worry about malfunctioning some day. I mean hell, they sell electromagnetic sensors that you wrap around the drive shaft too if you really want to just find something to rig and make work. They also sell mechanical gearboxes to calibrate it mechanically to your gauge etc. etc. Basically it just comes down to what's cheapest and what's easiest, unless you have a preference between digital and mechanical gauges. So aside from fixing the busted one I have (raise your hand if you think that's a decent proposition) there's either buying an electric replacement and a guage, or buying a mechanical replacement. Of course being the first to buy a mechanical replacement is a little risky if no one is absolutely sure that it will actually fit. And if you all are sure that the ecu doesn't need a line, than the difference between getting a mechanical one and getting an electric one in that respect becomes a moot point. I would jump to thinking that buying the mechanical replacement is the cheapest option because I don't have to buy a gauge (and it won't look out of place to boot), but if it only comes from japan, versus the z32 electric equivalent readily available, well, that's when a little part search venture comes into play. Your thoughts?

Piece of cake. I took the horns off, and yes, all four bolt heads broke half way out. It's a little low as I foreknew. About halfway between the core support and the crossmember. It should be okay, but I might make some sort of skidplate in the future. The font valiance always hits coming out of driveways anyway. It's taken quite a beating--I don't think I can go back to the original style now because you might then be able to see the radiator hanging out the bottom. Some sort of duct or cowling would also be nice to get the most even air possible, but I haven't had any good ideas yet and there isn't much room on the engine side for a cowl. Splash guards would help trap in some of the air, did the s30 originally have one? Due to the shape of the core, one large fan will trump two smaller ones, unless perhaps if I can find them as a single unit staggered so that they are really close together and get more total surface area.

My old bmw had the exact same looking seats, with the adjustable front piece and everything. Soo comfortable.

I was looking to foam my interior as well. If you don't mind, about how much did it cost to have everything covered?

That's what the schematics in my r32 manual show. It's not very big, and it's mounted right next to the brake master with a check valve in and another one out. No idea why there would be two. Also, I believe that turbodiesels hold the market on vacuum can and electric vacuum pump assemblies because they generally spool up at speeds barely above idle.

I was thinking that it would have to stop the starter because to cut ignition but allow it to crank would defeat the purpose, but it doesn't look like the starter is hooked up to the ecu...Is there a component I've overlooked, or was the neutral switch intended to connect directly to the starter itself?

I think when you call it a one way valve, we're talking about the same thing. It's basically a spring loaded open and shut valve that closes if the pressure reverses direction, and you can probably get a generic one at any auto parts store to splice into the hose anywhere. In n/a systems, there is always going to be a vacuum so you don't necessarily need a check valve, but under boost, the line will inversely receive backpressure. In theory, your turbo isn't spooling up until a somewhat higher rpm than you would be braking no matter how much boost you're pushing, so as long as the rpm is below your turbo's range, your brake booster will pull vacuum. My stipulation was just that I don't know if this is sufficient or not without the addition of a vacuum tank and possibly a vacuum pump to assist it. If you have a vacuum pump, then you cut out the middleman completely. I guess it's a safe bet that a vacuum tank would be necessary, since the skylines came with them, and a vacuum pump would be a little over the top.

...Course there's always green.

I'm not seeing the first photo, is there another link? I'm curious though, because if it's necessary, I'll need to get one.

I don't know if anyone still reads my banter, but I'm looking for a few quick answers... So now I have to address the fact that the previous owner was all but gentle on the set and I need to repair or replace the spedo sender. I'm going to keep searching the forums for a topic on the spedo, but it seems like many of you just go without one? I might be able to do one of two things. Either fix it so that it is electronic, or cut off the end, weld on the end of my old sender, etc. to make it cable driven to fit my speedo with a calibration box or something (it would also have to be reversed I believe), rather than buying a new digital guage and whatnot. Of course I first have to figure out if this thing is cast aluminum or pot metal, because it's really hard to tell. Before I do that, I was wondering if anyone knows whether or not the lead from the ecu to the speed sensor is necessary? If so, I might as well keep the speedo original so I can plug it into the ecu. If not, I'll just eliminate that wire. But wait, there's more. Do I also need to plug in the neutral switch (not shown in picture)? It seems kind of strange that there would be one on a manual trans rather than a switch on the clutch itself. I'm not sure how the switch would function if it's purpose is to keep the engine from starting unless it's in neutral. I would guess that it could just be grounded if necessary. Also on the topic of wires, what are you guys doing for the exhaust gas sensor? Do I need to incorporate an o2 sensor in my exhaust line to feed to the ecu, or just eliminate that as well? It's still up in the air whether the engine ecu actually needs either of these feeds to run properly. Your thoughts? On an unrelated topic, I think I'll be making a little aluminum vacuum bottle for the brakes and run it to the intake plenum or aac somewhere. Also, I took off a rear panel from inside the car and cut out the evaporator tank along with about 47 lines going to the gas tank. I can just plug most of the ports on the gas tank and it will still fill fine because I'm going to reroute one of the lines at the highest point into the filler tube. The other on the opposite end I think I'll incorporate into a fuel return line, since the original return line is tiny. Buying: heater hose, clutch hydraulic line, and a new shift boot (any interchangeable ones or just generic?) Installing: radiator (piece of cake) with an angle bracket on each side, welding on cast aluminum tight 90s onto the intercooler after cutting off the original ports so it will fit nicely. Making: a trans mount (also pretty easy) -- then taking my old drive shaft and the new yoke to a shop to have one made (wondering if they will be able to match the receiving flange to the yoke or if I have to buy a z32 shaft and cut the end off) I'm starting to feel a sense of progress

You have a vacuum can right? So idle is enough to store up vacuum for brakes then? I was looking in the skyline manual and there's a drawing of a line running from the intake plenum to a vacuum can, but on my intake, there's no fitting there, just a flat spot like the car it came from didn't have power brakes or something. I still have my aac, but plugged some of the lines. I was wondering if I could use a line from the aac to go to brakes.

How does the line to the brake booster work if your engine is turbocharged? Where's the vacuum?

So it took aaaaapproximately, ten minutes. The end. Phase one complete. Now for the hard part.

I'm not sure who was saying that the dodge isolators work well for the infinity mounts, but testing their theory cost me an extra two days rental on the cherry picker plus whatever I would have saved if I had known ahead of time to buy the supra isolators at a good price. The idea was that the engine would sit more comfortably in a lower or farther back position, but it can't work, at least not on a 240z with a 200zr pan, and here's why. First of all, even if they would work, the engine sits TOO low: almost the entire hump in the pan is below the crossmember. I tried the isolators in different positions, because they are offset and wasn't quite sure which way others were suggesting they be positioned. I found that with them pointing forward, the studs are too close together to mate with the original crossmember holes. If the isolators are rotated to face completely outward, they may meet the holes (with a hell of a lot of finesse and probably drilling the holes way out or slotting them) but the engine will sit so low that the pan will hit the steering rack before sinking both studs. I went back and forth with the engine in and out over and over trying different angles (the isolators are next to impossible to tighten once in the bay) but no dice. The method I found to work best was to tighten the left isolator first because it couldn't be reached in the bay, and leave the other loose to be able to work them in the holes: ie. they can't both be tight going in because the approach angle changes as you work them into place. Anyway, I got to the point where it looked like I might be able to theoretically get both studs in, where the right stud was set and the left was just barely in the whole, but the pan was already sitting on the rack (and this is before the engine would likely lean forward some in final setting). Basically I discovered that even if it was possible to find a configuration of the isolators that got them to mate with the crossmember and spent enough time actually making it happen, the engine would hit an obstacle before getting to that point. I think this is due to the fact that the dodge isolators are much thinner than the supra ones so that even though they are offset and can be rotated to the right angle, you can't have both the necessary vertical clearance and the right separation combined. In the following pictures you will see the closest I got to making these isolators work, with the pan on the rack and the left isolator still floating, and if anything, still too far away horizontally as well. The supra mounts are coming tomorrow, and it might be close, but my theory is that because they are inline and more than twice as thick, they will have the right clearance and separation necessary. Also, it will be easier to coax them into place because their thickness will make them capable of flexing and they can fudge a little...Hopefully. We'll both know tomorrow if I'm paying another 150 bucks for a reason or not. The only alternative would seem to be to block up the crossmember mounts so that they stick out farther. These engine mounts get you the right angle, it's just not close enough, so blocking the crossmember would close the gap in vertical clearance and the distance between both sides a little--in which case perhaps either type of isolator would work, but the supra ones would be ideal for their durability and the direct shot rather than supporting the engine at an angle more like a wedge.

No I was just pointing out that when they spilled oil they had no idea why and were startled because they didn't know there was oil inside to begin with. Until I told them what happened, they thought it was busted.

$275 shipped. Nobody has real SU's anymore. I'm still trying to think of the motorcycles popularly imported to the US that also have these carbs. I think those same motorcycles have springless valves, and some other irregular features designed for better fuel economy.

Rick Wong's mounts are a hell of a lot cheaper than the subpar competition. They should hold up well. The bolt holes are pretty large for the bolts just like in the old mounts, and to prevent wear it might be a good idea to get steel sleeves for the bolts or at least bolts that aren't threaded all the way to the head. The same isolators as on my friend's 1972 dodge dart. I've heard they put the engine a little farther back than the supra ones. They look like they will fit snug too. 4 bucks. 6 ohm resistors off ebay for under 10 bucks. The pan after welding completed. It looks pretty sloppy but who gives a rip? Some preemptive wiring or lack thereof. Numbered all the wires I think might be important. On the ground are the six hot wires to the dropping resistor, and a couple others that were also on the two 8 piece plugs. On the top are a bunch of leftovers from the white plugs that go to something other than abs, a/c, power steering, and whatever else my car doesn't have. The firewall grommet is much too gooey to bother actually removing the wires I cut out right now, so I'm just going to wrap them in the mix. I need to either use my old oil sending unit or get a new one and get a fuel filter, both of which I have been putting off. Also, my old engine went to my buddy in an engine rebuilding class. He discovered that it was actually an L28 with an E88 head, and some strange aftermarket cams. Ewe! He will likely find that the crank bearings are all shot as well and the balancer is bent, making for a fun semester. His teacher has never heard of SU carbs though! Needless to say the class was surprised when they took the carbs off and spilled oil all over the place.

Some day I'd like to build an entire engine out of black box material. Or carbon fiber, depending on if it's a pure race car or just a show pony.

Wow that has to be heavy. I'll bet it does have gobs of potential. When were they produced? Twin cam? That thing has to be freaking stout and pretty darn long...which is what we all dream of.

Well there's the topic starter of this thread of course available without the turbos... Why are you looking specifically for a toyota engine for your z? The VQ35DE in such cars as the Infiniti G35 comes to mind. The R34 skylines also fit this category. Not sure what you consider "impressive under the hood" though. A turbo usually looks somewhat impressive...