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Will you have any exhaust tips for me? I sure don't wanna screw that up. I'm especially curious at the sound difference between single and dual exhaust and also different pipe sizes.

Is the rb really cheaper? Parts may be more, but the bigger issue is finding them. I don't like most of those threads on how much it costs. I think it's a reaction to how people always underestimate that they go and do the complete opposite.

That's interesting. I was worried that a stockish rb25 clutch would be rated bellow rb26 specs, but perhaps it is fine. That's not too bad for a high flow pump. I'm trying to find out if I can order a bosch one from a wholesaler of sorts which would probably make it about $50. I don't know if I mentioned this but the way I figure it I'll get one that is rated at exactly what the engine requires and then I don't need a regulator to go with it. The bosch just so happens to be perfect from a chart I saw on the right pressure, which I attained from an rb26 spec sheet. Model number 0580254909 if anyone cares to know, says to be 195ph. The Walbros have a big margin in performance, as there seems to be several low flow types that don't cut it, and then one high flow that is far beyond necessary, the GSL 392 at 255lph for $150 or so, plus you would need a regulator, so you'd be paying a bunch extra to jack up the flow, and then a bunch more to knock it back down. Hmm... Will look up the gm ones though.

Do standalone ECUs really help? It pretty much goes without saying that your foot has a heck of a lot to do with mileage. But it's just so dang hard to control. I don't know about it not being in the parts though. If you get wild cams and whatnot to advance your timing and increase compression, there seems to be little your foot can do to keep your mileage from going down. But I guess if you had an economy tune on your ECU, the fuel rate you're adding with your parts would in turn cause the ECU to lean the mixture and counter it when you don't need the power, in theory. But whatever, I'm a leadfoot so it's not going to make any difference unless my car has so little power that I get good mileage even when I squeeze every available hp at all times, but then that's the exact opposite of the direction I'm going for. Would be nice to have different tune settings for in town though. My first major purchase will probably be a boost controller, which would help IF I ever get myself to turn it down instead of up.

When did you start saying "teh?" Heheh. So now I'm all screwed up. Is it 6w 6ohm or 10w 10ohm or 10w 6ohm????? I have stock injectors. Are they all high impedance? I was thinking there were variations depending on setup. I don't know much about them, or what the difference in result is for that matter. Plus, the book I got on CD says different things. I'll have to check it again for what the resistor is said to be on the 26.

Even aftermarket ones don't seem all that expensive. How cheap are we talking here? It actually looks like the rail is silver soldered together, in which case welding it would cause it to fall apart, but I have other ideas for fixing it as well.

I'm gonna leave it stock for a while probably. Save up a little, and get a rear disc brake kit, all new weatherstripping, new shocks, hatch window, door panels...That list can also be endless.

I finally found it on Fast! rb26dett: 22698-U5U10 I tried to use the part code to find the part number for the rb20det but it said it was not applicable.

True. I figured that if I know myself well enough, over the course of the years I will dump as much money into it as I possibly can and it wouldn't be too long before I hit a wall with the rb25. If I were on a tight budget, I'm sure the rb26 isn't worth the pricetag, but I'm thinking long term here, to the point of pushing everything to the limit for no good reason. Let's just hope there isn't some catastrophe where we can't get gasoline anymore or it's phased out and only available at union stations for $20 a gallon, because then I might rethink. One of these days we'll be like characters in Road Warrior or something but with cars a little nicer than say a shady falcon. Some of you are already on the right track what with being on the right continent and all.

I did get the mafs from someone on the site. Exactly what I wanted too. I think I'm getting a radiator for Christmas, yay! Aluminum RH, double pass 3 row. A few things I need to take care of though, other than wiring obviously. Needs to be tested for leaks. I'm crossing my fingers big time. The plan is to drill a hole in the bottom, push out the dent from the inside, and weld it back up. Trying to make heads or tails of all the wires on all the plugs starting with these. I figured out most of them. I think I'll post pictures and pin numbers once I'm done. Many of them will be cut off, but not these two of course.

I think that's because to have the mindset of wanting 400hp you have to also be thinking gas mileage isn't an object. No matter what you do, more power equates to more heat, more wear, and more gas. That's why these guys run dual 255lph pumps... I'd be more interested to know what they make stock and go from there. Sometimes it's quite a surprise. My jeep got 15mpg and I was thinking that doesn't make sense. What am I getting out of a car if it is neither built for power or for mileage? I'll take 10mpg if it's a 10s car, or 50mpg if it's top speed is 65. Some have claimed that turbos and blowers greatly increase mileage, but the only reason people see lower is because they strap them on to be able to punch it more. They say that this is because the turbo especially makes up more power than it uses, but fundamentally that doesn't make any sense to me. A machine that produces more than it uses. By definition, the more complex a machine, the less efficient. Obviously a turbo increases power, but that's simply because it lets the engine stuff more fuel. Anyway it all depends on the car. I'm gonna try to find out what my rb26 gets completely stock after I put it in, and hopefully the number won't deter me from any upgrades. In retrospect my buddy's 72 dart 318 gets like 10mpg, and that's what I call poopdick. But I digress.

I emailed the folks at Mckinney for pricing, and their package deals seemed to be twice as much as I could buy parts individually from anywhere else. I still can't get a hold of the guy that makes infinity machining mounts, but it's probably even more for those. Perhaps I could by a used CNC for 15k and make 50 sets of mounts and flush the market to pay it off. Mckinney: oil pan and pickup $300, radiator $500, intercooler $950, downpipe $550, exhaust $650. I think the "package" for just the motor and trans mounts is $700 I'm determined to show that most of this can be done at a fraction of the price. You can argue that they make it easier than doing it yourself, but if you aren't going to want to do anything yourself, why are you even doing the project in the first place? Besides, for things like exhaust you can get a shop to build the entire system for a third of just the parts from Mckinney unshipped. Hmmmmmm... I guess now I know why people estimate the total cost at over 10k, thanks Careless, because when I first heard that number I almost laughed and threw up at the same time. But now that I pissed everyone off, I'll go back to my little cubby in the corner of the rb thread.

It's quite possible. Also, I found the stock box on RHD Japan if anyone is desperate enough to pay $60 or so. Their parts seem to be somewhat overpriced by 30% or so. I'm just gonna build my own at radio shack like they say. Besides, the plug isn't going to work anyway, because the plug that heads to it on the harness goes to another plug first. I'm about to post a blurry picture of that plug on my progress blurb. Perhaps others have something different.

I've never really heard of quite literally going with like parts and not going turbo for that reason, but pushing for na power is commendable either way. Some people just don't like the idea of a turbo because it's deemed "unnatural" and they want to get "real natural muscle," which would count out nos too. Of course most of those people still go to 110 leaded on drags. I don't care too much for nos myself because the challenge I make for myself if is to get as much out of the fuel I have without just increasing the potential of the fuel itself. As in what power can you get daily driving and pumping, not refilling a bottle and and ice chest. I would think the biggest downside of the ls1 would be initial cost. But I'm not sure how valid the proposed lightweight claims are on it either. Has an American company ever made a lightweight engine, or trans, for that matter? I thought the thing that made the block so reliable was how stout it is built. My guess is any difference in the two motors' weight is negligible. The real difference would probably be the difference in distribution of that weight, since I hear that the ls1 would sit much farther back than the rb26 in the bay. Yes, the straight six is pretty nice, but for me at this point it isn't much of a bargaining chip other than perhaps the money saved versus buying two of everything, because I would think it much less of an obstacle to double your parts than figure out all this nasty wiring, which is still mostly kicking my ass I must admit. I plan on taking pictures of all my plugs and asking for help and then posting them with their pin assignments and what each wire does and which can be cut off because it will take an extra few hours for me but save someone else an extra few weeks. In retrospect, if I were unlimited to the breed of engine, I would still have to go big or go home and would dream of the 7 liter. I don't know if the ls7 would be worth the price tag though by any means, but an l71 or bigger ls6 would solve the wiring problem at the cost of 100hp and a few mpg or so. If anyone has one of those lying around that they don't need you let me know.

Literally the only reason to me for going RB and not LS1 is that you want to stick to the same breed. Unfortunately for my wallet and my time, I am that way. LS1 could be considered cheating, but if it's horsepower you're after, I honestly doubt the RB26 beats the LS1 in any form of comparison. Other than just wanting an rb in your gut, a chevy v8 has no downside, as far as I know.

No offense, but those parts seem to be priced for the kind of person that can truly say, "Money is no object." If I could afford to do my entire swap with Mckinney Autoparts, I wouldn't have bought a Z in the first place, let alone be doing my own shopping and installing. Of course that seems to be the trend with machine shops, not just you. And I thought package deals were supposed to be just that.

Here it is, the 1972 240Z Radiator Wall Diagram (for lack of a better name). So if you trusted my measurements, and you are a bit of an eccentric, you could theoretically get an aftercooler that has a core of 23.75"x13.5" with 5.625" caps on each end that have right angled inlets, and install it without any modifications to the wall--although you'd probably need the use of a rubber mallet to do so. Unless you want to give that core a tiny little 2.625" cap and inlet on each end and add your own 3" tight elbow, or something like that. In application, an aftercooler that size would probable prove to hit the floor attached to the wall and you'd end up having to heighten the holes for the inlets, but over the core you'd have a few inches to spare. Horizontally, you'd have about a quarter inch on each side of the inlets before bumping the hood hinge mounts when you close it. I don't know how far you guys like to space your aftercoolers from the wall, but at this depth, you couldn't space it more than like 2" before hitting the center mount for the grille on the bottom. Or you could get an aftercooler with a core that is a little smaller than maximum all the way around, and make sure the overall width is still 34"-35". Or you could just get a huge core and modify the crap out of your radiator wall. I still can't think of the correct name for that thing. I would choose one that has the inlets to the center of each side, or a top inlet and a bottom outlet, although I've never seen one of those before, and have them both integrated into the caps at 90s so that the size of the caps don't suffer. P.S. I forgot to speculate that the larger the caps, the more even the flow. Tiny caps means more air moving across the top and less moving across the bottom. So straight inlets are not such a desirable idea if you're trying to get as big a core as possible. In fact, a core too large that makes you put on smaller caps would probably do more harm than good. I also assume that the area of your core that goes outside the radiator hole is less productive anyway since that section of air isn't going all the way through, but of course spacing your core farther from the hole helps counter act this effect... Realistically, I'm gonna go with the cheapest thing I can find, as long as it fits. Although I don't want the inlets top and bottom because that seems way less efficient by design. Also, same side inlets would just be retarded. Half the reason you go RB in the first place is for the handy cross flow! Even if a double pass would be more cooling, I imagine there would be more pressure drop which sounds like a counteraction anyway. Not that I know what I'm talking about...

That's what I was afraid of. I was going to draw what the core support looks like directly from the front and post it so it would be easier to read, but I can't get my scanner to work lately anyhow. Maybe I'll take the time to draw it in freehand or something.

Yay! ... Um, why is that special? I thought we went over this already, anyway! You saw it before. You're not the one with the s13 you just painted green are you, someone was pming me about that. Green probably wouldn't have even entered my mind if I were to have painted it myself, but it looks nice. Probably won't last a year though, looks like Earl painted this car a week before I bought it. And yes, I finally found some bondo chipping off a rusty kicker--I know people often become bold faced liars when selling a car and I expected the unexpected, but I'm still mad and am learning to hate the previous owner. Cheers! P.S. So no take on my worthless intercooler update huh? Oh, and my radiator already has 4 rows! What the heck? That piece of crap couldn't cool a lawnmower. I guess I will indeed go with an aluminum one as a replacement. P.P.S. Let's be cool and call them aftercoolers from now on and be the only ones who can laugh at the others for their incorrectness.

You guys got me in a scientific mood, so I decided to go out and take a few measurements of the intercooler area. I put the measurements on my photos, I don't know if they will help anybody or not, and any architects in the room will cringe, but here they are. I didn't feel like removing the hood just for a good picture, so the angles might make the measurements more challenging to read. I heard some people saying a 31" wide intercooler would fit snug, and some say it would require too much modification. As you can see, my car seems to be missing it's hood springs, so I don't know if that's part of the discrepancy or not. I would think the real issue is whether or not you get an intercooler that already has the elbows built in and they account for the overall length. The big ones I see on ebay that have 3" inlets say 31" wide but go straight out the sides, so you have to add the width of the elbows. I don't see how it would be remotely possible to fit an intercooler that size because the overall length even with complete 90 degree elbows would make the intercooler at least 37" wide and it would run into the hood fasteners, which are 35.5" apart. The way I see it, the maximum size intercooler, assuming it has elbows on, whether integrated or rubber, would be 34.5" wide if you want to use those holes already there without cutting new ones. It could be slightly wider if the inlets were on the center of the sides rather than the top, but not much. The maximum height of an intercooler using those top holes would be 11", that is from the top of the inlets to the bottom if the bottom isn't much narrower than the top. If the bottom is more than 1" narrower than the top, such as the case where the elbows are added and not part of the design, then the max height can be about 13" because the bottom will clear the extruded corners that you can see in the first picture. But let's step back and think, how big does this intercooler really have to be? For starters, if the core is wider or taller than the radiator hole, which is a little under 24"X12.5", then you're just wasting the energy fitting it in and if anything are being counterproductive. I would like an intercooler that has a core no larger than the hole, but doesn't have any unneccessary blockage of the hole, like if the core was smaller and had the caps and tubing running inside the hole blocking air to the radiator. That said, I doubt the intercooler needs to be 12" high to do popper cooling. It might allow the air to flow more freely, but at a higher cost to the radiator and engine cooling. The problem for me is that the intercoolers on ebay that are a more desirable size are mysteriously more expensive. the 31"X12" can be $50 cheaper than a 28"x9" cooler. That in mind, I say the hell with it, I'll just get a big one like everybody else. The 31" with straight inlets will definitely be too wide though. In retrospect, you'll probably be seeing me a year from now selling the intercooler I get to go with a liquid cooler. Right now I'm keeping myself from spending the extra dough and keeping it simpler, but the call of the liquid intercooler is relentless. For about the same price as an air cooler, I could get a large liquid cooler, but I'd have to get a pump, a reservoir, and a condenser to go with it, plus extra piping, tubing, and the joy of cooland, wiring, and monitoring...

So I'm guessing you're stonehac? Dang, every time someone finds one of these on ebay I'm too late and only see the ended item. Well at least there was a buy it now this time for ya so you couldn't be outbid.

I still think it would be much easier if I could get my hands on the stock box. Does anyone have or can anyone find the part number for this thing?

Next on the list is the rb20 pan. I found two part numbers, if anyone wants to verify. 11100-08U00 is for the r32 and some other nissan models. 11110-20P00 is for the z31. It seems that this pan, which I believe is the one they sell at nismoparts.com is shallower in the front. I'm not sure if that makes any difference or not. So far they have the cheapest price, $141. But that is still not great, so I wanted to search a few junk yards first. Any thoughts? Once again, if anyone has a pan they want to sell or if there is another way to get it cheaper, let me know. Thanks guys!

Gotcha, I was gonna say, balancing the clutch makes no sense, because... But yeah that would be pretty fine tuned to balance everything including the housing. To have it done for you sure as hell isn't cheap.