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I'm having trouble finding informaion on any of the dampers you guys are mentioning other than the ati ones. Most of the websites seem to be under construction or they don't actually distribute the product so you have to find a vendor?

It's not so bad especially since I beat the corner in a little. It would probably have worked without doing so but putting it in and together would be more of a challenge. The digital ones have much beefier heads and would probably rub and only go in with the trans lowered.

My dad does pretty much all of it. I've never personally welded aluminum before. You're changing your setup? We don't have a large enough bender, so the rest is just going to be straight tubes with angled joints all over the place.

That's what you call snug. It took a little trial and error with the pot metal kit. It's much like soldering, only the rod doesn't go on smooth and is much thicker. It was easy to get it on without it sticking properly, but in the end it seems to be on there pretty darn good. It was a fun experiment anyway for less than buying a new unit and an electronic gauge. A little epoxy all around to make sure it's sealed up and add a little integrity just in case. Up next: The old drive shaft and new yoke are at the shop. The fuel pump and filter are in with lines to follow. 23" from u-joint center to flange with roughly 1" of yoke play.

FYI, the dodge isolators DID NOT WORK for me. It was quite impossible due to alignment issues. See why on my build thread here http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=855609&postcount=102 Here are the final pictures of rick's mounts with the supra isolators installed. Nothing is ever exact but I'm quite satisfied.

Wow I am looking at that right now. There's a buff aluminum open fan that pulls 3000 for $100 but all the regular looking plastic type are only 1000 or so except for a few that are over $200. Was yours a 14" perhaps? They say the same rating but are generally cheaper, strange... The one thing I like about the aluminum rat rod looking fan is that it just has 4 adjustable tangs that would make it pretty darn easy to mount without using those pins that the generic kits have you shove through the core fins. An aluminum shroud will be fun to make though...

I have more pictures coming, but I've been camera lazy so bear with me. Can anyone tell me what radiator fans they are using and what is sufficient, like actual cfm numbers? A 16" puller will cover most of my radiator, but I can't decide on which to buy. Most of the ones on ebay seem to claim pretty high numbers for such thin fans. Any problem getting a $50 straight blade fan that claims 2500cfm or should I throw an extra 100 at a 4" thick s-shaped fan that pulls in excess of 3000? TOO many options, so little money.

What does the rb30 version look like?

Any others out there with a salvage title? Haven't the slightest idea why.

How was your aem install by the way? Did it prove challenging? Also, Your fog lights look good but I couldn't find a picture of them at night. Gimme gimme!

Thanks for the encouragement! I'm one to reply to EVERYTHING I read, so when no one responds I think perhaps it's because I'm bantering again. I can't remember the brand, but it's nothing too special. Two row aluminum double pass. The inlet and outlet are both pretty close to the engine's that way. The one downside is that the core itself isn't quite wide enough for the hole and hangs down a little. The actual flow area is almost square in shape.

The only thing left is to get it hooked up and running! So, like everything is left basically. As you can see I already have a plate in mind. Probably taken already. I saw a yellow z today but I think it was a 260. There's a white one in buena park I see all the time and a flat black one down the street that never seems to move. There sure aren't very many of us! I think for now I'm going to try to cut down the cowling on a fatty two speed fan I'm planning on scoring for free. Otherwise I was going to look into machining off that a/c pulley. I'd like to have a/c someday, but that's a LONG ways from now at the rate I'm going.

I would agree. How much did it cost you?

Is that the original placement of the emblems? Mine are mostly missing or chewed up and I think they were put on wrong after it was last painted. Go figure.

Okay, so the speedo housing is in fact pot metal. I got a kit coming that supposed to make it possible to weld that crap (basically soldering the two pieces together). Note that the top piece is from my old mechanical speedo and the bottom is the broken electronic one that came with the trans. I'm trying to convert it to cable drive if I haven't mentioned that already. I also had two halves of the pinion rod brazed together and lathed smooth, but no picture yet. The $0 scrap metal trans mount. It's in the category of what my friends and I refer to as "thick dick." My dad's design. It bolts to the underbelly straight under the trans (with oem rubber) unlike any others I've seen. I'm not thinking it's necessary but it can't hurt, and I didn't want to be picky or anything. As if in an attempt to confuse everyone, I took the picture of it upside down. The reverse and neutral switches in. I had to use one of my old ones because the new one was ironically in worse shape. Both had to be cleaned significantly to get an accurate reading. Note that they work opposite of each other even though they look identical, so they should be marked and tested. I put heat-shrink on both but soldered the wires on the front one at a right angle and just put a bunch of rubber paint on it because it was a tighter fit. Small parts: Datsun clutch hose Datsun heater hose--one can be cut and go straight in, the other is too short so I still need to get a 90 degree 5/8" hose and couple them. 12" long aluminum tube--I only need 2" pieces for each side of the intercooler to weld onto the elbows for ease of mounting. A little generic vent that I jb welded into the trans vent hole to replace the smashed tube.

Wow, ditto. I thought I was the only one that bled all over everything. Sometimes you just gotta sacrifice a knuckle to get a bolt tight.

So the ati one is two pieces? The outermost pulley being removable and the inner two being one unit? I hate how on the stock unit, the outer pulley is what holds the whole thing together.

For what it's worth, as a spectator of an apparently dead topic, it seems that part of the confusion is coming from interchanging the idea of simply "adding weight" and "putting weight on the axle." If the engine increases in weight, not all of that weight is transfered to the front axle we can all agree, yes? It is true that if you put 100lbs literally on top of the front axle, that axle receives all of the added distribution, but consider if you added 100lbs directly over the center of the car between the two axles. Your distribution changes exactly 0%. On the other hand, if you added weight forward of the front axle, the weight distribution change is two fold. First, all of the new weight is supported by the front axle, and second, that weight now has leverage over the rear axle since the front axle becomes the fulcrum. To put it oversimplified, weight added forward of the front axle is not only added to front distribution, but partially subtracted from rear. It's like on big city busses--barely any weight is over the front tires because of the enormous ass hanging out the back of the rear axle. Consider this in lieu of all that, and without me going out and taking all sorts of measurements to be able to apply it to the real world difference between these two engines or plug them into any software. Say you have a 2000lb car distributed over an 6ft axle distance at 50/50. You add 100lbs on the chassis one foot rearward of the front axle, at the 17% station. Your new distribution should be closer to 51.6/48.4. This is because the weight is distributed 83% to the front and 17% to the rear, making the balance 1083lbs/1017lbs. To get the actual change in weight you would have to plug in exactly how much weight is being added and at what relative distance between the axles it is being added. Now if we supposed that all of that extra 100lbs is being added right on the front axle of a 2000lb car, the difference is obvious: a 2% forward weight distribution adjustment. The actual difference, because the weight is not added directly over the axle, will be slightly less, but couldn't be a whole lot. Really, a 2% difference in distribution is more like a 1% adjustment, because what is subtracted from the weight of one axle is added to the other. If you have a 2000 lb car and your distribution is 52/49, you only need to get 20lbs from the front axle to the rear to be balanced. So is 2% that big of a deal or not? Methinks it depends mostly on the car and the driver. Perhaps your personal diet has more effect on your car's distribution than which engine you choose to put in it. Actually now that I think of it, if you're in a car that weighs 2100lbs with a distribution of 52/48 and you're sitting like a third of the way between the front and rear axle, getting out of the car wouldn't even be enough to even it out. The front would have 1092lbs on it and the rear would have 1008lbs on it, a difference of 84lbs. That means you'd have to lose 252lbs altogether to make the weight over the front and rear balanced at 924lbs each, unless my windows calculator is malfunctioning. Try feeding your car celery... I think the point here, if there is one, is that adding or subtracting weight has a much less significant of an effect on distribution than actually redistributing weight, ie. taking it from one side and putting it on the other, such as in this example where instead of having to cut out 252lbs of meat from the cockpit, a weight redistribution of 42lbs from front to back could be made. Much more attention should be payed to actual placement of the engine and associated parts than its actual weight versus another one. But like it was stated earlier, if the smaller engine is used, associated parts can also be shifted closer to the center as well. Sure a track friendly rb can be done, but you've got a slightly smaller, slightly lighter, slightly cheaper option in a 4banger that already comes with slightly more torque than it's rb equivalent and should rev slightly higher due to the fact that it is slightly shorter and would suffer slightly less harmonic issues. Hmmm...

I'm looking for the same thing because I'd like more radiator clearance to put on a big puller fan. There are a few threads on the ATI 800hp damper kit where it's kinda hard to tell but it looks like it's a three piece set and you can just leave off the top two. Although that hasn't been the goal of the topic so no one has mentioned it--most of them are incorporating a/c. Still, it's a bit pricey. I'm wondering if you can just buy the one piece and not have to waste the money on the other two if it is in fact doable. http://rbmotoring.com/gallery/album283/aaa

I should hope the engine will run fine without them, because I took mine out. There's no way an engine wouldn't start without baffles but it would theoretically not lubricate as well, ie. run like crap. But in this case the reason the baffle plates wont fit in the pan is because the pan already comes with built in baffles! You don't need two sets of baffles--I removed both front and rear plates as I don't think either fit actually, but that might depend on the way you put in the new sump pickup tube. The way I did it, using the 200zr pickup, seemed like a relatively easy method. This may seem like a no-brainer, but fyi, don't paint the inside of the pan like I did--no matter what the can says, it doesn't stick well enough and I ended up taking it right off with chemtool.

Yeah, a common mistake is that people check their speedo with another car at only one speed. If your speedos are out of sync with each other, they may have way off readings but still intersect at one point. On the same token, yours may read under at a certain speed and then over at a different speed. I suppose you could time yourself between known distances on the highway, like if the call boxes are almost exactly a quarter mile apart, or if there are 500 stripes on the road in a mile, etc. but there will always be some sort of error based on your reaction time. Either way, I think "close enough" is all we can expect here. If at highways speeds it's only off by one or two mph, who cares?

Wow, that's a crappy way to find out your speedo is off. It's funny how you didn't error on the side of caution though, ie. you thought you were going even faster! But I don't know if going off of what the cop says he approximated is a very good meter of your actual speed. Before I started my swap on some days it would seem that my stock speedo is way off and others it would seem right on. When I would pass one of those signs that tell you how fast you're going it would always give a very poor reading as well. I first thought it was off on the day I bought the car and was driving it home from San Diego but didn't notice the needle ever go over 55 and when I hit 60 it seemed like I was flying by everyone. Solution, go to a speedo shop and have them test and adjust it. I guess if you can figure out for sure what your gears are and factor in your tire size etc. to figure out about what your speedo should be reading at a certain speed through a few calculations, but, eh.

Actually, by sheer coincidence, the gear that is on my old sensor looks like its exactly the same size as the gear on the new one. I'll find out for sure when I actually get it running though. If you were going to hook it up to your ecu for whatever reason, you could use the highest gear possible and the fuel cut would go up because it thinks you're going slower than you really are, but on the flip side it might not run properly. In this case not connecting it seems to just disable the whole system, whereas with fords and the like, if the speed sensor goes out the car will run like crap.

That is a very good point. I think I have the two pinion 3.54 rear end for now, but am hoping to go somewhere around 3.7 in the near future or when mine breaks, but I'm not very well read on the subject so that may change. For right now I thought I might as well try to make mine mechanical for the hell of it and save a few bucks since I already have the pieces. I just need to buy the 17 tooth gear from nissan. At least, I think mine is 3.54. I'll find out the hard way I suppose. Here's what the rb25 meter housing and my old t5 mechanical end piece look like fresh off the lathe before being welded together. Still have to connect the shafts as well.