HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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I will try to check what I have and compare the head bolts when I have time.
I do know that some people have had rod bolts break or back off resulting in a ruined engine but again......will have to check diameter as compared to L28.
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The oil pump shaft doesn't even reach up to the spacer, from the face of the flange down to the shaft the distance is 65mm, if you look at this picture( https://photos.app.goo.gl/EbhlMDl34KjKTMJX2) you can see the end of the cas axle where it slots in to the oil pump shaft just like the standard distributor does. And the cas axle is supported internally like the distributor is too.
I don't understand why you would want a bearing in the spacer?
You don't want the benefit of knowledge of someone who has already been there?
Isn't the CAS supported by a single bearing while the distributors have both a lower and upper bushing?
I'm just saying you might get more movement than is optimal which will prematurely wear parts.
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The connector that is part of the TPS is just swiches.........one or two depending on whether turbo application.........maybe none on other cars.
The grey connector is what has the potentiometer you will need.
I run a M30 ecu on my L28et and it won't work without the grey connector.
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If not for the screw spacing, you can likely use one from some of the later vg30 single cam engines like a nissan quest or pathfinder.
Just have to make sure it has two connectors.......one for the switch and one for the sensor.
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One based on an ipad would be cool.
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Also be aware that Z31 rubber and trim are super rare with mirror seals being all but impossible to find.
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Are you running a genuine nissan thermostat?
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Is the oil pump shaft getting enough support?
Designs I played around with for your application of sensor had a bearing in the spacer.
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Sensor light is triggered by mileage.
Now if you've lost a ground and the car is seeking ground through the light......................
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Clevite stopped making the steel and now only make aluminum for the L28.
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I question that must be asked is also "aluminum or steel?"
I know Clevite discontinued L engine bearings with steel backing and only offer the aluminum.
Some builders claim no trouble with the aluminum ones but I'm sure there is a weight difference which may need to accounted.
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Didn't the dealerships perform a recall where they installed thick heat insulators over the fuel lines of the 260z?
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This problem is likely looseness in the tension rod bushings causing big caster changes.
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The problem is the offset.
A z31 wheel is more of a front drive type offset with almost zero dish as viewed from the outside while the Z car expects one with closer to zero offset.
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Been swapping from rotella 15w40 and castrol standard 20w50.
Staying now with 20w50 since all my stuff is now super high mileage.
At another forum is a good text only post of test results.
This same testing lies elsewhere and has pretty pictures but it loaded with advertisements in between.
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I think the Z31 digital gauges had a module that went between a split speedo cable.
Not sure what signalling it used or whether it was similar to the later speed sensors.
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Tried to find correct place to post this
I did a used car check on a blue cressida with very good condition body and interior.
5mGE engine has the usual leaks in every place possible.
Will try to post pic.
Likely 500 bucks or so and it runs ok.
Just seems like a good start for a sleeper project.
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If you ever do valve springs on any VVT/L engines, you will find that the springs are super light because the valvetrain is usually correspondingly light.
The L28 has a relatively heavy valvetrain which requires pretty intense spring pressure and this spring pressure might be tough on any mechanism used to achieve VVT/L
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I took a walk through the junkyard when I needed the proper length bolts and found many cars have the proper size (and longer/shorter) used for various coolers.
A 20 minute walk netted me 8 bolts and a bunch of washers.
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I used gpopshop because they specifically stated that they did not use cheap chinese crap.
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Seems things work better here now so corrected the thread and retract my complaints from further up.
Using same computer as then and it works fine now.
Thank you hybridz.
Car is now running consistent 14.6 in quarter on 7.5 psi and is a daily driver with more than 50,000 miles on the swap.
If it would break, I might be motivated to do more to it but had nistune issues and am waiting for the board to get back from australia so I can begin to back off the timing and start raising the boost/bigger maf/tune AFR.....etc.
I installed clutch pedal from s12 which is almost identical to the first gen. maxima clutch pedal.
I had to shorten it a little, bend it to clear the dead pedal (which is so sweet from the factory) and cut off much of the brake pedal.
I have the entire 5 speed swap and 5 lug conversion but I'm busy driving the car so nothing further now.
Made a couple of appearance changes to it..........kidding.
Two dudes left to right are Matt and Frank ........I'm actually in the car trying to sort the clutch switch wiring for the two-step.
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The F31 chassis is a modified R31 with the engine bay being near identical and the rear half of the car being changed the most.
The F31 does not have roll down rear windows and comes factory with the 280zx style rear suspension though it's possible that shock mounting points on control arms are higher or lower than on the 280zx.
You can adjust the toe on M30 rear suspension.
Even though the M30/F31/nissan leopard engine bay houses a single cam vg30 like the Z31, the dimensions of the bay are different concerning crossmember location and steering rack angle as well as steering shaft angle.
This means the M30 crossmember in a Z31 will have bolt holes that don't match and also means that simply drilling new/extra holes might be a bad idea since the inside of the box sections of the frame rails have reinforcement where the crossmember bolts through.
I would keep the Z31 crossmember, get a front sump L28 pan (1981 to 1983 maxima), and adapt the L28 for front sump pickup,
Of course, you will also need to very carefully drill a new hole in the block for the dipstick.
The M30 swap I did covers much of what is needed to do it to a Z31 except for turbo/downpipe clearance of steering shaft.
The most important dimension is whether the L28 turbo itself clears the steering shaft of the Z31 but you might get lucky like in my M30 and find the turbo and factory L28 elbow clear it just fine.
Since the L28et stock turbo has a two piece elbow, it's not hard to make a custom pipe with a 4 bolt flange that fits as well as getting rid of the two 90 degree angles used in the stock setup.
On my previous 1984 L24 turbo maxima, I made this custom pipe and reduced the two 90 degree angles to two 45 degree angles.
I guess I can try to fix up the thread posted here at some point.
The biggest change was needing to lower the engine relative to the mounts (the rubber is stock L24 maxima mounts).
I would fix the thread posted here at hybridz but ran out of patience with the forum software change a few years back.
It's a daily drive that does mid 14s in the quarter at 7.5psi on an untuned M30 ecu.........which runs 14.7 A/F ratio during daily driving and dips to 11.8 under boost with stock 280zx turbo injectors.
I'm sure that the "under boost" will get leaner the more boost I throw at it but everything's perfect at this time though I would like a more turbo friendly timing curve.
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I've put 55,000 miles on the Infiniti M30 since the L28ET replaced the VG30.
I'm just waiting for something to break or I will simply keep on driving it.
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http://www.lowmileageparts.com/default.aspx
select nissan and go to page 3 and 4
not sure if it's real of bs
NISSAN says Trademark Violation listings removed?!
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Just remove the name "nissan".
What I don't understand is the thousands of advertisements using every single manufacturer name in their listings for a crappy generic plastic aftermarket part.
Why aren't they subject to the same treatment?