HowlerMonkey

Necropost with pics I haven't seen yet. https://www.facebook.com/300ZX300ZX/posts/imsa-gtu-vg30-built-by-ed-pink-racing-engines/1803498913086580/

I feel arduino or raspberry Pi could induce latency to cause timing issues causing some data points to skew along a timeline. On the ford GT LSR car, we used Aims Evo4 with smarty cam from 2009. I had suspension ride height sensors and even a few spots left over to check the pressure/vacuum of our intake boxes. That's a 14 year old solution so I'm sure there is better now from the likes of Vbox.

At electrodyne, we sold the recaro brackets and I remember instructions to use passenger side rails on drivers side and vice versa. I'm sure it's written down since I remember reading it from a recaro catalog. Now this information is from 1986 so................... I figure by now that others have products to fill the niche.

I mentioned spark plugs because my L28et at 6psi simply felt a bit weak as the rpms climbed. I went through everything except the spark plugs and made sure everything tested good or was new. Then I noticed I hadn't replaced the spark plugs in a P79 I swapped in so I can get my P90s all sorted out. Swapped plugs from the P90 (30k+miles same plug number) and the car came back to life. So one week, it did 15.8 in the quarter and the with changing only the plugs a week later, it ran 14.6 on 7psi.

I used a cable and a cruise control cable cam from a early 1990s nissan throttle body (probably 1992 stanza). When I took it apart, i noticed a plastic bushing for it to ride on that looked like it was the same size of the throttle shaft for L28s. It does fit and I simply worked out the proper clocking and drilled it through for a bolt. It's not progresive so massive or multiple throttle bodies might feel touchy on a N/A car.

I use a Infiniti M30 ECU with nistune.

got my threads mixed up.............replace "mains" with "crank bolt". On the VG30, some dealership guys snapped the nose of the crank off and was wondering why oil sprayed out.

Spark plug gap or coil weakness Did original poster ever mention what kind of dyno?

Cast steel wins the day.

As a Nissan/toyota/lexus dealership technician who's seen every possible assembly mistake (mostly by fellow coworkers), I'm wondering if the loose main bolts were the result of hydrolocking of the bolts while torquing the main bearing caps. "Hydrolocking" of RTV or grease or assembly lube will give you those satisfying clicks on the torque wrench and then "bleed down"..........especially when the engine is run. Might take minutes or weeks. I'm not implying you guys are sloppy like the work I witness daily. Quite the opposite. I've spent the last 5 years doing what toyota calls "Special service campaigns" on Toyota 86/scion FRS flat four FA20 engine and it seems to be the car that separates the guys who post big hours doing brakes all day from the guys who can assemble an engine correctly. I've even seen more than 10 cars where the flat rate guys smear "FIPG" (toyota's RTV) all over the valve cover gaskets and get some into the bolt holes. Once they tighten down the valve cover bolts or cam housing bolts, enough pressure is generated to blow out where the hole ends leaving quarter sized 10mm wedge shaped chunks of cylinder head that eventually find their way to between the cam and a cam following cup. It only takes a little bit of oil to cause disaster. I've also seen it happen on crank bolts so I'm now off to repost this there.

As a Nissan/toyota/lexus dealership technician who's seen every possible assembly mistake (mostly by fellow coworkers), I'm wondering if the loose main bolts were the result of hydrolocking of the bolts while torquing the main bearing caps. "Hydrolocking" of RTV or grease or assembly lube will give you those satisfying clicks on the torque wrench and then "bleed down"..........especially when the engine is run. Might take minutes or weeks. I'm not implying you guys are sloppy like the work I witness daily. Quite the opposite. I've spent the last 5 years doing what toyota calls "Special service campaigns" on Toyota 86/scion FRS flat four FA20 engine and it seems to be the car that separates the guys who post big hours doing brakes all day from the guys who can assemble an engine correctly. I've even seen more than 10 cars where the flat rate guys smear "FIPG" (toyota's RTV) all over the valve cover gaskets and get some into the bolt holes. Once they tighten down the valve cover bolts or cam housing bolts, enough pressure is generated to blow out where the hole ends leaving quarter sized 10mm wedge shaped chunks of cylinder head that eventually find their way to between the cam and a camfollowing cup. It only takes a little bit of oil to cause disaster. I've also seen it happen on crank bolts so I'm now off to post this there.

Long shot guess...are they bronze?

Still haven't seen my box of ECUs........buried.

Is that a 6/83 car? Looking now in some boxes.

Z31 turbos had a good amount of beef internally compared to a nissan 910 maxima version……which has the bell housing you need along with some later 280zx cars. Extreme heat often causes failure when a plastic spacer gets hot and shrinks. There are updated parts that help it live.

There's a sensor on the passenger side of the cylinder head with a connector that looks much like an injector. If the signal from this sensor doesn't make it back to the ecu or it is unplugged, the S130 will do this.

Missed the “itb” in the original post. Here was the early 944 factory implementation. I kept one because i thought I would need it someday so maybe it will end up on a q45 throttle body.

We took them off of Porsche 944s in the 80s and replaced them with linear. I would think getting small opening at first would only be a benefit with a gigantic throttle body.

Driving the car hard before it's warmed up?

Check this thread out.......it has information. I believe the earlier KA24s (s13 engine) had a pump as large as the turbo pump.

If you're getting a "turbo pump" make sure you go the extra step for a "turbo Auto Pump" or get one from something like a Z24 truck engine.

That's with a 37mm restrictor.

SCCA GT2 has a few Z33s with around 380hp N/A

At toyota, we use a "wax" that's heated and then sprayed into the interior of the frame. It's unbelievably expensive. One thing to make sure you do is not gum up any paths of drainage within the unibody.

No, that doesn't help but I am curious how the coil head is sealed to the plug "boot" to gain that level of water proofing.