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HowlerMonkey

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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey

  1. That steering box puts a hurting on header selection or trying for turbo sweetness.

     

    As far as ZX to 810 ecu, years are very important as there were probably 3 or 4 different fuel pump schemes with changes an amount of fuel pump relays and pinout from year to year.

     

    What I do know is that a 1982 zx n/a ecu will go into a 1984 maxima as will the air flow meter but that was more lucky coincidence and I doubt it would be as easy on earlier year bodies.

     

    If the crossmembers are the same between the later maxima with rack and pinion and the 810, it would greatly simplify things but header or turbo routing is still an issue concerning clearance of the steering shaft as I had to make a custom down pipe for the turbo since neither the z31 elbow nor the 280zx turbo elbow would clear the shaft when I turbo'd a 1984 maxima.

     

    Also.....if your 810 has engine mount brackets that sweep backwards to meet the engine mounts on the crossmember, they could also interfere with headers.

  2. ........trying to make one plug and play or easily grafted into specific vehicle harnesses.

     

    For S130, would there be interest in M30 ecu incorporated into a n/a harness or one that is already turbo or would people prefer it standalone?

     

    Is there interest in Z31 with M30 ecu?

     

    Would people prefer Z32 style harnessing with the extra effort into getting crank reference without modifying an already expensive 82/83 280zx turbo distributor but rather using a modified cam angle sensor from later cars?

     

    Just gathering some ideas

     

  3. I have a L28 in an infiniti M30 and used the 240sx fan clutch and swapped the 280zx fan blade to the opposite side of the clutch which gave me the blade tip clearance I needed as well as being able to add washers to space it further back.

     

    Remember also that the transmission mount controls quite a bit of the fore/aft engine locating so a new one might help more than new engine mounts which either harden or simply separate rather than get soft in the case of the 280zx.

  4. Which electramotive engine specs are you interested in?

     

    They had at least two and probably more spec. engines.

     

    IMSA GTU trim.

     

    IMSA GTO turbo trim.

     

    A few might have been made to SCCA GT and trans-am rules as well.

     

    Probably the most developed would be the last configuration as raced in the mid 80s in GTO by a crewchief of electromotive..........might have been someone else......just a quick mention during a race.

     

    The company who did the cylinder head would have the secret recipe and I doubt they are willing to part with it but I'll bet they would build another one for a paying customer if they are still doing that engine family.

     

    http://www.sloversportingservice.com/default.html

     

    We had a few we picked up when we sourced the basic car to build into Bob Lentz's GT2 car but I'm not sure if Brian from "Datsun dynamics" kept that information or parts.

     

    Looking at the SCCA event results and lap times in the link below, I would venture a guess that both Greg Masters and Bob Lentz were running engines of the electromotive recipe but I would venture that Greg took that configuration and developed it further as they were both from "Datsun dynamics" who always had a healthy engine program.

     

    http://www.wdcr-scca.org/ClubRacing/ResultsArchiveCR/NEDivSpringNationalSummitPointApril6702/FINALRESULTSFORRace8ASGT1GT2GT3/tabid/652/Default.aspx

     

    Bob Lentz ran the inline engine in his first 300zx but went to a newer car with the V6 and now uses rebello V6 that makes around 380hp with a 37mm intake restrictor.

  5. Recirculating the blowoff valve from right in front of the throttle plate to the turbo inlet got rid of that "rich dip" in idle speed that happens when I closed the throttle.

     

    If you're venting to the atmosphere, your MAF doesn't know that air it just metered didn't go through the engine so you end up with a rich condition at drop throttle that stalls the car.

  6. Take care when "retorquing" old head bolts as you could end up snapping one off since you don't know the condition of them.

     

    I would start with a setting on the wrench of a little less than what the factory recommends just to see if you get any movement and carefully feel while you are tightening.

     

    If you find one that is starting to turn more than the others or just doesn't feel right, you might want to remove that one and replace it before it snaps off.

     

    Overheating an engine can cause the aluminum cylinder head to expand and actually squeeze a gasket thinner........then at normal operating temps. afterward, the head is not fully torqued.

  7. I second a good high flow cat as long as you have some sort of shroud between body and cat.

     

    For some reason the path through the monolith get's rid of all the raspiness and you get a mellow rumble at idle.

     

    If you want to muffle further, a simple straight through at the bumper will suffice and a dual chamber muffler will quiet it down to stock levels.

     

    After driving J-ported rotarys all through the 80s, I like my cars super quiet now.

  8. I picked up a porsche 924 cheap to flip back in 1988 and it would overheat only when driving around at neighborhood speeds.

     

    I figured it out when I walked past the bumper in shorts and felt the warm air coming out the front.

     

    It seems the early 924s had fan motor connectors you could easily connect 180 degrees off.

  9. I use infinti M30, Z32, and maxima (VE30DE) ecus on my L engines.

     

    You could also run the early 90s maxima vg30 ecus and harnessing because they are near identical to the M30 setup except that you don't get a nissan consult port with them.

     

    The M30 ecu is the easiest of the three because you only have to swap the optical disc in the existing L28ET distributor while it takes a bit more work to do it with the other 2 since the disc is a different size requiring more than simple snapping things together like lego.

     

    "easiest" doesn't mean "easy" since you will have to ensure you have the proper wires going to the proper places to satisfy the ecu, injectors, fuel pump......etc.

  10. Spend a bit of time looking and know that the one best deals come when you aren't ready.

     

    I spend years looking for cars and they seem to fall into my lap when I'm not looking.

     

    As far as condition of car, it depends on what your area of expertise is.

     

    For me, interior and body to a certain extent is important because mechanical stuff is my specialty.

     

    Reject any car that has rust around the windshield or leaks around the windshield.......unless you are good with rust repair and auto glass.

     

    I bought a pristine 1987 300zx that had 300,000 miles on it but I've seen beaters with less than 100k on the odometer.

     

    Look for any fatal flaws of the body such as rust in the floors.

  11. The toyota MR2 has a "sequential manual" box but it's simply a corolla/celica box that has servos to do the shifting and clutch.

     

    It's not really "sequential" as you see in motorcycle or racing car boxes.

  12. One thing to consider is the voltage.

     

    In our standing mile car, we are able to simply use the tuning software to set the charging voltage and I believe you might need to have whatever regulates your alternator modified to charge at the battery's happy voltage.

     

    If the battery you chose runs more than 14.1 volts, remember that S130 and Z31 electronics such as climate control and a other systems react to voltages higher than it expects by shutting down or glitching.

     

    Do the research first so you don't end up posting an angry and misinformed review if things don't go well because you didn't do the research.

  13. Yep.....fix it if you're running the stock J-tube because it's there to relieve pressure that builds when you lift the throttle under boost.

     

    It's there for the benefit of turbo longeivity.

     

    If you're running an intercooler system, you could get away without that valve if you have a "blow off valve" plumbed in but I run both the factory valve and a blow off valve set to recirculate to the turbo inlet.

  14. Yes they are.

     

    The Z31 300zx has the engine quite a bit forward of the firewall so compared to the fs5w71b from a S130, the shifter will be a bit further from the bellhousing flange......but not as far as the Z32.

     

    I don't know the exact measurement but it should be the same or extremely close to the fs5w71c from the non-turbo as far as shifter location.

     

    I guess you could call it medium distance with the pathfinder Fs5r30 being the short distance and the Z32 being the long distance from bellhousing to shifter.

     

    One thing to know if you're contemplating adapting a VG30 engined car's trans to the L engine is that there were more than 1 starter locations so and that the pathfinder transmission bellhousing shape does not fit the Z32 transmission adapters.

     

    I'm not sure whether the adapters fit the Z31 version of the FS5r30a transmission.

  15. We're going to inspect the above mentioned everglades jetport soon for LSR feasibility.

     

    https://maps.google.com/maps?expflags=enable_star_based_justifications:true&ie=UTF8&cid=6771187789820398104&q=Dade-Collier+Training+and+Transition+Airport&iwloc=A&gl=US&hl=en-US

     

    We've got exclusive access to the shuttle landing facility but the costs are unbelievable and use it only for nascar and lemans teams to come over and test as well as our own aero testing since it has smooth, shallow groove, and deep groove concrete portions which offer more traction than any surface other than a well prepped drag strip.

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