HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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Depends on MANY factors and I don’t understand the point in this question as it applies to this discussion?
His post detailing that he wants to lean out showed up after my post.
That was the first mention of leaning since everybody else was talking about enrichment schemes.
I build nissan ecus and air flow meters for a living and have special testers for them and might be able to see how far you can skew readings from sensors before the ecu no longer does a mild adjustment but instead decides your car is cold and reverts to cold operation.
Sadly.......I am way understaffed and most of my free time is in 2 minute snippets so all I can do is post from my experiences and off the top of my head because I have no time for research.
Maybe this weekend I can give the definitive answer on a number of ecus for nissan Z cars.
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Was your hood open at the meet while the car was unattended?
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There should be no oil pressure in the turbo........unless the return line is blocked..........which is what usually happens to kill in this case.
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Just watch out for the porous castings found on some early bmw V12s.
I replaced a few shortblocks because of this in the 90s at Eurasian auto service in tysons corner, virginia.
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I used to sell that kit at electrodyne in the 80s.
I might be one made by FOHA (australia I think) but it is possible that our kit was made by xenon.
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Is there a baseline video with no spoilers?
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The fork to pivot bolt friction is a factor here.
Check the fork an pivot for galling and lube.
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Careful when adjusting toe on the IS300 or the crossmember suffers.
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Don't adjust jack ♥♥♥♥.
Check for the positive at the injectors when cranking.
If you have no positive, then the ecu bringing the ground won't do anything.
Many times when injectors are replaced, people will also replace the connectors..........with the key in the on position. Any touching of the positive feed wires to the engine will blow the fuse link or a fuse.
Also......pull a plug to see if it's wet.
If one has a bad connection to the head temp sensor, the car will go unbelievably rich to the point that you might not get it started and end up with wet plugs.
If they're platinum, they are less resistent to flooding than standard plugs.
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How much more duty cycle do you guys think you will get?
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I've seen a million forklifts (have 100 parked 100 feet away from my bedroom) and never a turbocharged L28 nissan engine.
The only people I see who purchased a "LD28T" engine were the guys who purchased them from marine powerplant builders.
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I was there 1988 to 1989.
I was a porsche tech at european car center for a few months but didn't like the fact that hans peter hetzelman required you to torque and paint every single bolt on the cars and you were not allowed any air tools or pliers of any type.
This made taking off porsche 928 rear axle nuts run because they required more torque than any 1/2 inch breaker bar could handle so we always wrapped them with a rag and tape to keep the flying broken breaker bar parts from hurting anybody or any car's finish.
I ended up buying a 3/4 inch breaker bar that I haven't used since.
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European Car Center? If so......I worked there before the Z shop.
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It can be done but you must wonder why most of the Z31 and Z32 racers are still using L28s in thier SCCA race cars.
Recently I've seen some V-6 but only very recently competitive.
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I used to be a marine mechanic and spent plenty of time being amazed at how strong the basic volvo 4 cylinder is.
Speaking of marine 4 cylinders, mercruiser has a "470" which is a 3.7 liter 4 cylinder made from half of a ford 460.
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At lexus and toyota I worked on those land cruiser/LX450 engines and all that I can say is that the car is not equipped with an accelerator pedal but rather a foot controlled volume pedal for engine noise.
Step on pedal, engine gets louder but not much else happens.
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Turbos are not compatible with non-turbos and you have to be very careful in trying 280z stuff mixed with 280zx since there were at least 3 different fuel pump rela schemes in the 280zx alone while the airflow meter does the duty on the 280z.
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I've got 4 ok turbo dished pistons out of an engine I recently bought from the classifieds but they were on a car with a 20G turbo with blocked wastegate which is probably what caused #5 to break a ring land.
That said, I might not trust the rod bolts on the assembly if I do mail one.
I'll try to remember to bring them in tomorrow.
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I had a P99 head that came off of a late production 1983 280zx turbo 5 speed.
It seemed identical to the P90a head but I never did study it in detail......just slapped it on a 280zx turbo I had.
I eventually gave the engine/tranny setup to Datsun Dynamics in 1998 but now I am curious whether it had any differences or if anybody else here had seen one.
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As high as possible.
I did this one a little low for my liking but it's only 1/4 inch lower than the stock setup.
Higher is better.
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That is so jank-tacularly awesome.
How do you keep the metal out of the pan from drilling the hole?
I don't..............but now you have a hole up high in which to look with a mirror ( I didn't need one) as well as use brake cleaner to spray about and influence anything on the bottom of the pan to exit the drain hole.
On a couple of occasions, I have sprayed a piece of a broken piston skirt over to the drain plug hole that is bigger than the hole.........doh!
That was on a N/A engine that had never seen a turbo.
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Here's how you solve the oil return problem without taking out the oil pan or removing the engine.
I've used this many times over the years on 280zx and when fitting turbos to a few rear drive maximas that have front sump.
So.......19 years later, I finally do a quick write up with pics.
It doesn't work on all engine configurations but I will see if I can do it on my M30 soon enough.
You start with an oil pickup tube.........or two.
Then you use a grinder to take off the lip which will allow you to remove the screen and have a sweet surface in which to mate to the side of the oil pan.
Notice the fact that the tube will protrude into the pan which keeps as much oil as possible away from where it meets the pan.
Now you use the shortest drill you can find and fit a cut off bit for the starter hole that will allow a unibit (stepped drill bit) to gain bite and then drill to the proper diameter. Unibits have come a long way and their being short is a big plus in this case as I was able to use a pretty sizeable drill and still be able to do this on the car.
Use a rotary gasket grinder to smooth out the pan where you will be placing the flat side of your new flange as high as possible in the pan so thit it is not submerged when the pan is full and cut a relief if necessary but you want as much real estate in which your sealant will lie. Some obsessive compulsive types could fit a large diameter O' ring since it looks like you could fit one easily. I did not use one this time.
Test fit it to the pan and drill however many holes you want to hold it to the pan and then use the fact that you now have two holes in your pan to remove any metal particles by spraying brake cleaner with the wand to get them out of the pan. Maybe some worriers could use a magnet to confirm everything is good before finishing the install.
Then use some self tappers in stainless steel to tighten your flange to the pan with sealant.
I used the rest of the tubing from this one to weld onto the end of the stock turbo drain tube so it would allow me to use the stock nissan oil return hose (silver).
And here is the finished turbo drain tube and all parts used were genuine nissan save for the self tapping screws.
Still going 30k miles and 1.5 years later with no leakage.
Notice that there are no sharp 90 degree corners like the stock offerings which allow coked oil baked from heat soak in the beariing housing to accumulate and eventually clog it.............all smooth curves.
Feel free to post it anywhere but it's name is "HowlerMonkey flange".
Here's a song I wrote about it and performed it with only one finger in true talentless nu-metal fashion to warn any who claim this fabrication as their own.
http://princemakaha.homestead.com/files/shitflinginmonkeys.wav
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You don't need detonation to do that as I have seen normally aspirated L28s do that.
Another cause is running the engine hard while stone cold and the resulting piston slap knocks off the skirts as shown above.
queston about adujsting the air flow meter(new idea)
in Nissan L6 Forum
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Cool...........I guess I'll be posting only on threads in which I have to time to read and dissect every single post.
I'll leave that up to the people with enough time to research for the sake of discussion.