HowlerMonkey
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Posts posted by HowlerMonkey
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OK.....I finally spend some time looking at it and understand it now.
all I have to say is LOL
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Until I see a video of it running and not sounding like it is eating itself to death like all the other miracle engines, I won't be believing it.
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Harsh but at least you didn't get two broken ribs like my buddy did.
He was driving his brother's 1970 charger R/T 440 and heard the same noise followed by his seeing the reflections of a lug nut in his rear view mirror. The wheel departed the car at 45mph on a highway so he pulled over and saw the tire approaching in his rear view mirror and got out.
He put his foot out and the tire hit him so hard it crawled up his leg, hyperextened his knee like a Frank Shamrock kneebar and broke two rips before bloodying his nose.
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You would be amazed what works for a turbo drain. Here is an old post I did on a ghetto turbo drain system that is still working 50,000 hard driven miles later......
I posted it at least a year ago if not longer so the mileage has gone up since then.
Here's how you solve the oil return problem without taking out the oil pan or removing the engine.
I've used this many times over the years on 280zx and when fitting turbos to a few rear drive maximas that have front sump.
So.......19 years later, I finally do a quick write up with pics.
It doesn't work on all engine configurations but I will see if I can do it on my M30 soon enough.
You start with an oil pickup tube.........or two.
Then you use a grinder to take off the lip which will allow you to remove the screen and have a sweet surface in which to mate to the side of the oil pan.
Notice the fact that the tube will protrude into the pan which keeps as much oil as possible away from where it meets the pan.
Now you use the smallest drill you can find and fit a cut off bit for the starter hole that will allow a unibit (stepped drill bit) to gain bite and then drill to the proper diameter. Unibits have come a long way and their being short is a big plus in this case as I was able to use a pretty sizeable drill and still be able to do this on the car.
Use a rotary gasket grinder to smooth out the pan where you will be placing the flat side of your new flange as high as possible in the pan so thit it is not submerged when the pan is full and cut a relief if necessary but you want as much real estate in which your sealant will lie. Some obsessive compulsive types could fit a large diameter O' ring since it looks like you could fit one easily. I did not use one this time.
Test fit it to the pan and drill however many holes you want to hold it to the pan and then use the fact that you now have two holes in your pan to remove any metal particles by spraying brake cleaner with the wand to get them out of the pan. Maybe some worriers could use a magnet to confirm everything is good before finishing the install.
Then use some self tappers in stainless steel to tighten your flange to the pan with sealant.
I used the rest of the tubing from this one to weld onto the end of the stock turbo drain tube so it would allow me to use the stock nissan oil return hose (silver).
And here is the finished turbo drain tube and all parts used were genuine nissan save for the self tapping screws.
Still going 30k miles and 1.5 years later with no leakage.
Notice that there are no sharp 90 degree corners like the stock offerings which allow coked oil baked from heat soak in the beariing housing to accumulate and eventually clog it.............all smooth curves.
Feel free to post it anywhere but it's name is "HowlerMonkey flange".
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I used to haunt the orlando junkyards and the one near the speedway even back when those women owned it and inventory turned over once every 10 years. It is far better now.
I'll try to keep this thread in mind as I scour both yards in west palm on benoist farms road at least once a week and they have great turnover of cars but sometimes too fast as you will show up one weekend, see what you want, and then find the entire row has been replaced two days later.
I'm not sure how sharp they are here in west palm as I left an uncracked Z31 turbo exhaust manifold on top of the plenum of the car and it then thought better and it was still there two days later.
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In my time here, I have had just a couple of disagreements with people on diagnosis of Z cars here.
Here is your chance to own me on car diagnostics, or at the very least, prove yourself a competent diagnostic technician in person on a daily basis and get paid what a dealership technician receives while sitting in the comfort of a sweet air conditioned office with window view in the Boca Raton, Florida area.
THE COMPANY: Blue Streak America is the U. S. branch of Blue Streak Electronics.
We remanufacture automobile ECM/PCM/BCM/CCM/ECUs as well as dashboards and are in league with Standard Motor Products.
THE FACILITY: Located in Boca Raton, our facility has a 25,000 sq. foot warehouse full of ECUs connected to a 6,000 Sq. foot electronics shop that is air conditioned and offices with a window view.............no cube farm.
WHAT I NEED OUT OF THE CANDIDATE: You would be giving phone support to the customers who bought our product to the point that we only are responsible for insuring our product is not the issue should the customer still have issues with his replacement or repaired ECU or dash.
You would have both Alldata and Mitchell on-demand for repair reference as well as the lateral support of my knowledge since no one person can possibly take care of every single customer because we all know that about 90% of ECUs condemned by a technician are OK and that the problem is somewhere else on the car.
If you have electronic component experience, that would be a big help as it may be necessary to overlap jobs with ecu technicians here.
We would be splitting the flow of calls so you would not have to bear the brunt of all the calls yourself but I need the chance to at least spend 2 hours of each workday being a manager. I learned more about diagnostics in two months here than I did in 10 years elsewhere. At the very least, you will gain a better view of the big picture concerning engine managment systems which would make you a perfect candidate for a top flight diagnostic technician should you leave here in the future.
If you are a straight electronics technician, that would be OK since I can use my 29 years experience (19 years nissan, toyota and lexus) to help train in the most common areas of automotive diagnosis.
Use your imagination as to what the perks are since we have the ability to test and fix most any ECU or dashboard other than very recent ones (manufactures don't share security information with us) and burn most any type of prom. We do not have lifts and working on your own car here is at my discretion since I have insurance issues in that area that would need to be abided by.
I originally took this job rather than sweat my ass off in a lexus shop and, while I don't make what I did 10 years ago as a nissan master technician, I am in an air conditioned office with internet access. Also..........working at the dealership level is not what it was 15 years ago since being the only competent tech at a dealership means that all you will work on is warranty issues, squeeks and rattles, and doing the come-backs of non qualified technicians who cannot be bothered to raise their game to include diagnostics because they are turning 100 hours doing nothing but services and alignments. At $9.00 an hour, these chumps were outearning me which caused me to leave lexus. You might get lucky and score good paying old school gig at the dealerships but those jobs are quickly evaporating into what I just described above.
This is a canadian based company so use your imagination as to what kind of screening you won't be required to go through but I don't want anybody who is unreliable.
PM me with any questions not answered in the post above or send an e.mail to princemakaha@yahoo.com
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1982 F54 that's had a very special and lengthy lightening process done to it by a sweet blonde who only added water instead of coolant. It is topped with a high mileage 1981 P90 head.
It sports flat tops I used a 3 foot pry bar to hammer out of the a block rusted inside the bores instead of inside the water jackets. I really just wanted one rod out of the engine but, when I hammered them out, they looked pristine and I could not see a single mark on the rings so I just had to try it for the sake of experimentation.
TD06 20g turbo, and a Z31 management system soon to be replaced with a 7mgte engine management system sporting a lexus LS400 karman vortex air flow meter and 550CC injectors.
I'll provide video once it gets it's first pass down the quarter in the infiniti M30 it will be going into because I expect some carnage from the pistons that now have large screwdriver tip shaped dents in the pin boss bottom sides.
Just a temporary engine but my last "temporary engine" is still running strong 45,000 miles later.
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Stock has a 90 flange with a few inches length that then goes 90 degrees and lines up very close to the flange on the pan. Nissan used a special silver colored hose that spanned the very small gap.
I'll see if I have one within reach but I don't like the fact that it comes straight down and then into a kind of restrictive 90 degree where the coked oil chunks end up collecting.
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There's a sweet pontiac OHC straight six at a upull in west palm.
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Once you get it together, be careful when setting the toe.
I am a lexus diagnostic specialist and saw many technicians butcher up the tabs that give the toe adjusters something to push against.
The factory bushings that must move with the eccentric are knurled and very sharp on the ends which makes them resistant to moving as the knurls embed themselves into the crossmember netting you an eccentric bolt that just won't move even if loosened greatly.
This causes the eccentric head of the bolt to ride over the areas they should be sitting in and you end up having to set toe forever thereafter by tightening straps between or pushing against the wheels to get movement for adjustment.
Loosen them and get a pry bar to pry apart slightly the crossmember to move them out of their captive resting place slightly and tighten back just enough such that the heads of the eccentric don't pop over and get out of where they should reside.
Great choice and I have friends putting 700hp on these diffs. in thier supra project cars where they couldn't find the 8 inch supra turbo diff.
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It might go in easier if you tilt back of the engine down.
Pull or push, it's not too hard.
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I'm thinking Body Ground.
Easier than taking it apart and cleaning is to get a pair of jumper cables.
Put one of the pair on one side on the engine, the other on the body (strut bolt), and the two on the other end on the negative battery terminal and see if symptoms persist.
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Or the breaker plate has broken.
Look around the inside of the distributor for a small ball bearing signifying the death of the breaker place.
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Sweet......ford comes to the rescue of yet another car marque.
Back in the day we used ford "umbrella" seals on our big block chevys.
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I've run them without the cooler and with the blocking plate still on the block for years but I do so knowing any restriction or blockage of the filter will not be bypassed.
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Measured the short tranny out of a pathfinder and it's 27 inches from bellhousing to center of shifter as compared to 29 inches for a fs5w71b from a first gen. maxima. I believe all the fs5w71b are the same dimensions but they may not.
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I compared the shorty tranny out of the pathfinder and it's 27 inches from bellhousing to the center of the shifter shaft in neutral.
The Fs5w71b I have is 29 inches but it does come from a first generation maxima so I'm not sure if it's shifter is in the same place as it would be in a s130 application.
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This thread makes me want to go back to my high school and get all of their casting goodies out of the store room since I was probably the last person to cast anything there in 1980.
Just awesome the lengths people are going.
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Now that you've fixed the symptom, what do you think caused it?
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Does that mean he can simply get an older odd fire crank that isn't "split" on the rod journals?
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That plate is where you find the shifter on VG30 equipped Z31s and pathfinders.
I'm bringing one of the pathfinder trannies that has the shifter where the plate is and will measure it against a FS5w71b and C.
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It's because the limits were on venturi size.
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I'll try to compare shifter location (distance from bell housing to shifter) with the short FS5R30 VS a 280zx tranny.
Z32 Manual shifter relocation
in Nissan L6 Forum
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Pathfinder fs5r30 shifter is 27 inches from bellhousing.
The shifter goes into the plate on them but I've seen some pretty well shortened shifters for the z32 tranny done here that should be fine.