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jaime240z

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Posts posted by jaime240z

    Trying to mate MML 5 lug stub w/ AZC brakes?

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Well I'm hoping this will work as well. I don't see why it wouldn't. I consulted with a few people before doing this and everyone said it should be fine. I'd like to hear what the folks here think about running the rear brakes this way.

     

    Here's a pic of what I've done. The studs were pressed out of the hats and the new 5 lug stub axles and studs slid right through. There are 3 unused holes still in the hats. Worst case scenario is I will have to have new hats cnc made for the rear. i'm hoping this is not the case.

     

    And as a disclaimer: I did contact the makers of both these parts. Since the parts aren't really designed to go together I really don't have their "approval" of doing this mod. I'm on my own on this one and that's OK with me becasue I do belive this will work just fine.

     

    My biggest concern will be with alignment of the rotor and caliper once everything is bolted together. I won't be able to do that for a week or two, once I get the axle carriers back from powder coating.

    8455AZC_MML-med.JPG

    Trying to mate MML 5 lug stub w/ AZC brakes?

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    OK, I've tried searching but I think my question is too specific and I didn't find an answer. Here's my deal .I just got the MML billet 5 lug stub axle from Ross. I must say these are beautiful pieces. I also got the AZC 5 lug brakes. The AZC brakes are designed to be bolted to the oem 4 lug stub axles, however this will not be possible with the new stubs.

     

    So I'm wondering if I can just press out the wheels studs from the AZC hats and slide the rotro/hat over the 5 lug stub axles and keep everything secure with the lug nuts? I've seen rear brakes held together like this before but I'm not sure if it's such a good idea in this case....?

     

    I plan on contacting the makers of these items with this question in the morning but I thought I'd ask here too. Thanks.

    R230 Axle assembly: a pictoral review

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    I just wondered into this thread after searching for a while. I guess I just needed to find the "magic phrase" that got me to this write up.

     

    I just got done breaking down some Q45 axles to use with the VLSD diff and Ross adapters. I was quite stumped on disassambly mainly because most of the components within the boot were so COVERED in grease that I could tell what's what. Even after wiping up most of the grease with rags I was still stumped. Thanks for the good write-up. Most of the pics are redX for me but I was able to get through it with just the text alone.

    BUMP for anyone else out there getting ready to tackle this project.

    Q45 diff mount fabricators HELP

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    Thanks for the info. I have sourced the 6 bolt adapters and axles. Now I'm just looking for a front mount (either for sale or just an idea of how I can make one) I did try searching this but unfortunately most of the older links and pictures are no longer working....And I'm also looking for ideas on the rear brace for use twith the finned diff cover.

    Odd headlight find.

    in Miscellaneous Tech

    Posted

    Sounds like the same type of bulbs alot of the ricers were using before HID light conversion kits were available. Probably not street legal in most places. The biggest thing to watch out for is how hot your switch will get with these bulbs if they are high output.

     

    Another thing is that they will attract cops very easily at night. While the light may look a warm green tint from up close, when seem coming from far away and at different angles, those headlights can actually look a very deep green or yellow from far away. Almost to the same effect of a green or yellow traffic light. Check it out in a parking lot at night, you'll see what I mean when seeing the lights oncoming from a distance.

     

    You can now get "super white" type bulbs to go in the H4 housings that are supposed to be more like HID light. They will provide a brighter light than the tinted ones and they usually won't get you pulled over....

    my 2 cents....

    HELP!! Wacky door Locks

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    WOW a blast from the past. Funny thing is I was just getting ready to add to this thread as I finally figured out what was wrong with my boor locks.

     

    First off, the original problem of the driver's side look. It would lock itself when the door was all the way closed. Problem: There is a long "C" shaped spring in the look assembly (can be seen with door panel off, window rolled up, inside door where the inner lock/latch assembly is) This spring was missing/broken on the driver's side, probably due to extra use it gets compared to the pass side. I tried taking a picture of this but it was almost impossible to get a good shot since it's in such a tight place. If you are having this same symptom and take a look at both sides as described you should be able to see the difference.

     

    Now for the solution, instead of replacing the entire door lock assembly and blowing $100+. I decided, like others, to just install power door locks. Easier and cheaper in the long run. I got a kit that plugs right into my alarm system, but there are other kits out there available from Summit racing and VB, to name a few.

    Here's a pic of the door lock actuators I used. They're made by DEI and work with most Clifford, Viper, alarms etc....8455Z_door_locks-med.JPG

    Now for the install:

    It's quite simple once the door panels are off. The hardest part was finding a spot to mount the actuators so they wouldn't interfere with the window going up and down. I found a perfect spot, running horizontal just barely above the rod for the inside door handle. I marked the 3 monting holes, drilled the holes, and mounted the actuators. Here's a pic of the actuator mountd in place. Notice the 3 shiney mountig screws:

    8455DSCF0001-med.JPG

     

     

    Next you will need to connect the 2 lock rods with each other so that the new door lock actuator will actually be able to lock and unlock the doors. A lock rod adapter was included with the kits that I have.The tricky part to this is that I had to "trim" some of the metal near the lock rod in order to be able to access and tighten the rod adapter as seen in the next pic. You could probably skip this step if you are able to source a longer rod for the actuator or if you position the actuator closer to the oem rod. Also, the new actuator rod will need to be slightly bent in order to run parrallel with the oem lock rod.

    8455DSCF0003-med.JPG

     

    At this point I closed the doors and made sure everything worked. I just pulled a car battery over and touched each wire to +/- and then reversed the wires to make sure the both locked and unlocked. POWER DOOR LOCKS !!!!! This is going to be great. Now just wire everything up nice and neat to either your alarm or lock sitches or whatever means of controlling these will be. Just remeber to check your work and their function each step of the way so that you won't have to take stuff apart twice (ie. door panels).

     

    jaime

    Car leans to one side

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Hey I noticed you're in Oakley. I went to liberty way back when (which will explain any spelling and grammar errors:x )......

     

    Anywho, I had the same problem with mine in the past. I've had to Tokico springs in my 240z and I didn't care for them at all. I had a different problem to where the back was lower than the front. It turns out the prings were crap and I had 2 blown struts.

    However if you just installed new springs and struts AND you're still having the same leaning problem, I would check the unibody and make sure it's OK. Maybe the car was wrecked and never straightend correctly....? Also, are all your tires the same size and properly inflated.?

     

    jaime

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