SmogSUX

Ah, thanks. It looks like I wasn't specific enough in my search

I was thinking about the chasis of my Z when I was stripping th interior and saw the small holes around the door jams and it reminded me of a guy on the rx7 forums who used structural foam on his vert to stiffen up his chasis a bit and I thought about doing this on the Z. Anyone try this before? In the end it seems like he was very pleased with the results of using this. Here's the stuff he used: http://www.itwfoamseal.com/auto_aftermarket.htm Thread he made: http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=329353

Hmm interesting thanks for all the tips guys. I'm mostly to metal on the floorboards, but after looking in the hatch area the paint is perfect so I'm thinking I'll borrow my friends DA and hit that really quick. haha the paint in the hatch area looks like factory new.

Yeah I have super minor surface rust, but around the seam sealer it's nice. The sealer is on pretty well so I'll leave it. My chistle is working great with the sound deadening though. No dry ice needed It's chunking off with some areas needing a little work. After I get this done I'll go over the whole interior with 100 grit sandpaper to rough it up a bit since I read POR-15 loves to be applied to rough areas. And my dad's giante shop vac is proving ver useful for sucking up all the smaller bits

OKay, I've gone ahead and started to strip my interior and it's going well. Just using a hammer and chistle (sp?), only using the hammer for some parts. Anyways back to my question: Who here has removed the caulking as well as sound deadening? How hard was this? I'm just asking since the sound deadening was coming off really great then I hit what looked to be caulk in a seam. (Where the factory caulked over the welds?) Anyways should I remove this and recaulk it all? In the end all I know is I'm removing all sound deadening POR-15 everywhere, then install some good sound deadening/insulation then recarpeting for my Daily driver

eh people turbo the 325is...gotta look around. A bit less commmon than KA-T, but it happens. I figured though 14.8 in the 1/4 was pretty decent enough. That bmw handled pretty well too...I dunno Germans sure do know how to design cars. It was such a smooth ride, but just firm enough. I'm sure more power could have been made with tuning an SAFC or something and maybe a cat delete.

+1 for MKII! Those are fun cars. Fairly quick, the exhaust note is pretty nice once you open it up a bit. They are pretty reliable. I don't think 240sx look bed w/o a body kit...my old S13 was stock body with front lip and lowered and I thought it looked nice. And my friends S14 looks nice too with a lip and lowered. But yeah... for 4k or under you can find a clean modded S13, a near stock S14, for like 2k you can find a pretty clean MKII and have money left over to do whatever with...so my vote goes to the MKII. GREAT first car for anyone. EDIT: +1 for bmws not being expensive. I sold my modded 89 325is for $2500. I kinda miss that car :'( all it needed was to be lowered and it woulda been sick. Ran a 14.8 at the track with just a chip, full exhaust and CAI. Pic after some ******* at the college stole my front lip ;[ EDIT: Damnnn that second MKII is my new temp wallpaper

Pm me your number and I can call you up with the best body guy there is. Granted his shop is in West Sacramento. But he's been painting and doing body work for 45 years. As soon as I sell my Rx7 I'm paying him to do all the bodywork and paint on my z. Another thing is he's very motivated and still loves his job. He refuses to jimmy rig anything or to half ass things. On top of that he focuses on one car at a time so it goes in and out of the shop really fast. He's very reasonable with prices too. I'm willing to bet he can do all that for you for the $4000 you thought you'd pay. hehe I watched him fabricate the whole side paneling of a 240sx out of a honda hood and I couldn't even tell which side was damaged.

@ your link Sorry - no matches. Please try some different terms. lol sorry I had to

Oh, my mistake lol I'm talking about my S30 hahaha wow I'm soooo out of it. Someone slap mee haha

I'm looking and looking, but hardly anyone has fonr the VQ30DETT swap...in fact the few that I found that were actually complete are the US Z31 engine VQ30ET (I think that's the code) But I do know they are a bitch to work on. My friend owns a Z32 TT and I never like helping him work on it. For my case, I have a local RB20DET complete with trans, ecu, etc...and the guy said he has a fmic and some misc parts too to go with it. All for $1000..then I figure the $300 Rick Wong motor mounts. The driveshaft is a maybe...we'll see. I'm going to daily drive mine Basic Power FC, up the boost, injectors, maybe get a small holset turbo I found for $200. It would seem the RB has more people that are selling parts to make the swap easier, such as the mounts from Rick Wong, whereas the z32 engine I would have to fab my own mounts (I can't weld)...this makes the RB seem much easier to me. That and more people have done the swap and there's even writeups.

$200....whoa...that's a steal expecially since it runs

I suppose then that it's all what someone wants. For me I'm going to be tuning for roughly 200-300rwhp, which isn't too hard for an RB20, and will cost less in the end. The RB25 is still $1000 more. EDIT: also what other cylinders? They are both 6:confused:

Just a note, the RB20 is about $1000 USD cheaper than an RB25. The 20 goes for roughly $1000-1400, whereas you won't find an RB25 for under $2000. ^This is prices for the engine, transmission, ecu, harness, etc..

Awww it's too bad hardly anyone in Germany uses craigslist.... I just searched and noone in Germany is selling one ;[

Does he produce a transmission crossmember? Or what has everyone else done for that?

Yayyy just ordered some last night with the discount. Grabbed a gallon, I hope it's enough for the whole interior, suspension pieces and inside of my fenders.

ehh...yeah. I'm not the smartest and spray painted my car without a mask....black snot and black spit...needless to say I'm alive and learned my lesson.

Ah thanks yeah the engine is there, but it's been sitting since 86, has no battery and I'm pretty sure the master cylinder has all kinds of crap in it. Definately going to grab the 280zx one and flush the brakes out and such....and I am aiming for a fuel cell since I want to go RB. That or I need to completely restore the current gas tank...pulled off the gas cap and damnnn it doesn't smell good.

I was wondering why this looked better than the paint job I did on my old S13, then I realized you didn't use a rattle can like I did hahaha, good job.

Just a note, I'm pretty sure with most paints it's highly reccomended that you use self etching primer on bare metal before applying an other primer or paint. My Rx7 was taken down to the metal and one of the guys at the body shop primered it and when the guy in charge of body work realized it he nearly fired the guy, redid the car and used etching primer..I guess it etches itself into the metal so it won't let go easily.

I've always wanted a presmog car...a 240z was preffered, but I couldn't find one 3 years ago when i went to buy my first car, so here I am now. I overpaid for this little car a week ago ($1700 ) but there's not rust that can't be removed with sanding on the car and no dents or body work so I'm happy. The only car's I've done any serious work on before this were all rotary, so I hope I can learn a lot about these odd piston engines

I wonder how hard it is to swap in that dash...

Looks good, I plan on doing this swap eventually. What mounting kit did you use for the engine and what tranny you go with?