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mr jdm

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Everything posted by mr jdm

  1. what I was trying to say is even if that was 100% accurate, it doesn't help you. You need to know specific wire colors or pins. Send me your sr20 harness, for 250 shipped I will make it so you have to wire up about 3-4 wires. I will add relays and fuses No, you cant just plug everything onto your battery, your really going to have to start reading and studying, or pay somebody to do your wiring, you sound extremely clueless. Certain wires can not be always hot Your starter for example, has to be on a momentary switch The alternator needs a switched 12 volt or the regulator will always be on
  2. And why is the only wire going to the engine a ground? Your going to have a difficult time
  3. I dont understand why there is a wire from your starter to alternator There is no relay from your switch to ECU And of all that, your wiring diagram is so general that it wouldn't help you at all if somebody said "yea thats accurate"
  4. I/c Piping Buy some straight and U bends, measure,cut, weld Radiator hoses??? Many options, stainless steel bradied, or 1.5" steel piping welded with couplers, or rubber from the parts store I never had the intentions of having heat in my car, almost 90% of my coolant ports are capped off.
  5. I still have to get back to you on how much he did it for, hes the kind of friend we only talk once in a while. Anyways, the car is a blast to drive, but I'm on a new mission. I'm adding some more fuel , running e85, 30psi of boost, stock bottom end, and hoping to break the stock bottom end record. Which right now is about 600whp. I would like to squeeze out 650 whp on 30 psi, e85, and a 8-8200 rpm redline. Hopefully it works out, if not, I have a spare fully built motor with a VE head getting ready to go in. Dyno Results shortly
  6. I have a 77 fairladyz, the mirrors are mounted on the fenders from the factory. I recently some what finished my build, but I have lost all the hardware for the mirrors. All I have is the glass and housing, any ideas where to get the mounts/hardware from? Any suggestions?
  7. 200 is getting hot The fans on a stock sr20 turn on at about 212 Just a few ideas if your trying to take care of the pump more than the radiator. You can always run an electic water pump inline with the mechanical water pump. Leave the electric off on the street, on the track flip the switch. If you go full electric, crazy would be to put a pump on each radiator hose
  8. Look into some radiators on summit and jegs I used a griffin as wide and as tall as I could between the z rails. I did square tube my radatior support though. Here is another option maybe you would like to "test" out http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEZ-WPK510/?rtype=10
  9. If your car overheated or 5 or 6 laps in, your cooling issue is either something stupid, or your head gasket is going out. The distance between the radiator and an sr20 in s30 chasis is incredibly helpful for lower temps
  10. He has it setup the way you mentioned. But, BLOW through maf setups are popular and do work. http://www.sr20forum.com/turbo/81442-blow-through-maf-setup.html On my 200sx se-r turbo, I had the MAF on the coldside. The MAF can't see pressure any way you put it. The only benefits of this are being able to drive home all motor if you split an intercooler pipe, and smaller boost leaks wouldnt break the car up as bad.
  11. My harness and the harness I would have made for you would have been different.

    My harness is for my car is made entirely from scratch. It is the bare minimum.

    If you would have sent me an sr20det harness, I simply would have modified it. It wouldn't look like mine.

    I would be able to replicate mine though.

  12. mr jdm.

    I bought my sr20det cheaper from a guy off the zilvia forums because I thought i would go with wiring specialist lol so I have no harness. I watched your youtube vid, your set up looks clean now i wish i would have bought the harness to go your route lol

  13. I stumbled across this post from search results. Use a dremel and sandpaper to fix the center cap not fitting What a classic response from somebody who clearly doesnt have first hand experience at what the issue is. A classic post.
  14. Pull your fuel pump fuse, start the car. Let it die. Take each coil out while somebody is cranking and see if you have spark. I would think you have a MAF issue before an ignition issue if your misfiring.
  15. I need the interior rear view mirror and everything that is needed to mount it up. I gutted my car and have misplaced that and would it back in.
  16. Since you told me you track your car on the road course and how much you have invested in it, which I understand You have gone with top notch parts in every aspect of your build. My opinion is if your going to stay with the road course, I would go with a dry sump system with an oil cooler. (not sure if you have a cooler already) Here is a setup one of my friends made on his sr20 a few years back, if your interested I can get some details on it. If that is overkill, I know that the sr20VE oil pumps are very good pumps. I know the front cover will not fit the RWD block, but you might be able to install the actual VE PUMP into the RWD timing chain cover. Another option is shimming the pump, I personally would be against it but I have no experience with that and not enough research from reliable people. You might have to look into that yourself.
  17. Right now as it is, the car is 98% done. Its up and running, just finished up my keyless entry/alarm install since I shaved the keyholes on the door. For my car to be done I just have this left to do -Get a working boost controller, up the boost do 3 baselines on the dyno and hope to clear 490whp -Tint the windows -Pick up either 26" or 24.5" slicks -Get my fender mirrors polished and mounted -Install JEGS cage -Aftermarket steering wheel -4 Point harnesses That would make my car done, and if I'm not happy with about 490whp, plan is to go 1600cc injectors, run e85 and 30psi of boost. Its unlikely that I will switch to e85. Plans down the far road include an RB build with a gt4780. But thanks for the check up, hows your car doing?
  18. My post may been confusing.

    If you send me a UNCUT sr20det harness. I will wire in 3 relays and fuse block and label everything for you. There will only be about 3-4 wires you will have to wire up.

  19. I built my entire harness from scratch. Both the body harness and engine harness.

    I know the sr20det harness in and out, its a very simple harness.z

    Here is a some what old video of my car idling.

    250 I can have it ready for any chasis you want to put it in, I will label the wires you have to wire up.

  20. Incase it might interest you, I have a motor I have to sell. All the internals and head can be swapped into a rwd block. Sr20det u12 86mm bore Je 8.5:1 forged pistons Eagle forged rods Cometic headgasket Arp Main studs Arp Head studs Sr20ve head Sr20ve oil pump New Oem water pump Gspec crank and water pump pullies Custom steel cam gears I'm looking for 1800 plus shipping. Let me know if its something you might want to do to your z, VVL would be sick, I would do it myself but I think a I am shortly going after a 1000 hp RB build
  21. Actually i have been thinking about your proposition, i thought that guys was going to be plug and play but it's not. Im not too good with wiring so would you mind telling me more information about the harness.

    Is this what you are running?

    Any pics of your build and/or harness

    Thanks

  22. I am going to the track on the 18th, just wanted an opinion if a 10 second was possible. Thanks for the response guys.
  23. If you send me a sr20 harness for 250 dollars I will wire it up with relays and a fuse block. You would only have to hook up 4 wires. Switched 12 volt, constant 12 volt, ground, and fuel pump output to the pump.
  24. Was wondering what you guys might think my car is capable of doing in the 1/4. My goal with the car was to get it in the 10 second range on pump gas. It has been nearly 4 years since I have been on the track, but lets be honest, launching a car with a 2-step is pretty much effortless on a rwd car. Heres what counts Car made 430whp on 18 psi, as about 23 psi and raising the rev limit 800 rpm, I think I will be at just about 490-500whp at peak. The turbo setup is a sc6176, I love how I read so much about the lag, but to be real, on the street there is no lag, unless your going 40 in 5th trying to punch it. OBX LSD 24.5x8x15 slicks Coilovers Car is fully gutted, no heat, no ac, bare minimum body and engine harness, fuel cell, fibgerglass hood, I think the car weighs about 2300 lbs, and I weigh 180. Think a 10.8 - 10.9 is possible?
  25. I'm gonna weigh my car on Tuesday. I really think I will be in the 2300 lb range. There's no ac, no heat, fully gutted interior, engine and chasis wiring tossed in garbage, car has bare minimum in engine harness and body, fuel cell, aluminum dash, fiberglass hood, no steel bumpers, and asr20 with side exit exhaust.
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