mr jdm

I dont understand what you are struggling with? If you have a 1997 KA motor that is complete, you have the complete harness, and the ecu. Plug everything up in, the connector by the ecu that you can not plug into anything on a Z chassisyou will have to cross reference and wire up. This isnt hard, if you want to send me your harness I can do this for 300$

As far as tuning systems goes, anything can be learned and tuned, but why be the car someone learns on? The AEM will give more accurate tuning RPM band wise, some more features, and be a self contained unit. Not sure where you got your statement from but Aem is 16x16 maps IIRC Haltech has had 32x32 maps since the e8. I have it on my Z. If a tuner can tune AEM, then can tune a haltech. Also, AEM has had NOTHING but problems reading the Nissan Factory CAS. You even have to install their own disc in. Haltech reads the factory disc. Haltech is a better system. I would even take an out dated E8 over a series 2 AEM

Its 2013, if your putting an SR20 in your car then it better have a VE head on it

This is a really old thread that I forgot to update, but I wanted everybody to know to anybody who thought it was going to be a bad brake system, or a soft pedal You were completely wrong. Another perfect example why you shouldn't believe what everybody says until you try it yourself. My pedal is as firm as it can be and I have no issues with the entire system being stainless steel braided

I want to buy both a front and a rear, please update this with pictures as soon as you can

This happened to my motor once as well, I rode #3 got chewed bad. Also, some of the newer VE fwd oil pick ups, they have no brace at all. Perhaps a better solution might be instead of adding a brace, welding completely around the head/tube joint, and the tube/flange joint

This is the exact setup on my car. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-NISSAN-SILVIA-S14-S15-SR20DET-SR20-/230851320397?hash=item35bfcf9a4d&item=230851320397&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr *** ***** But the s13 version, no the s14 My manifold is a direct bolt on for sr20. The IACV is welded SHUT ( I cracked my throttle open and my car idled a SOLID 900 rpm, that is no exaggeration, a perfect, no fluctuation, 900 RPM) 2 Of the ports are welded shut, so you have 2 1/8 NPT and 1 1/4 NPT There is a bracket for a LOKAR throttle cable I believe this is the throttle body you would need to buy if you bought my manifold http://www.ebay.com/itm/100MM-Silver-Universal-Aluminum-Intake-Manifold-Throttle-Body-R32-R33-R34-Turbo-/330802300895?hash=item4d055a87df&item=330802300895&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr 165 shipped for the manifold, spent a 100 on a 100mm throttle body, and you have yourself a good setup for the price.

Bump, car ran great and was fun to drive. Just recently installed my VE head. Just need to build and intake manifold and button up a few things and then head back to the dyno. Also, anybody with an sr20det Z, my original intake manifold is for sale. It is pictured on the first page. Intake manifold only for sale, if you want you can pick up the 100mm throttle body I use with it on ebay. I am looking for 165 shipped for the manifold. It is cast aluminum with protruding velocity stacks. Can't wait to see the numbers with the VE head installed

BUMP

Its waste of effort. I have an sr20 in mine with 245's on front. You definetly dont need power steering at all.

On paper people will tell you dont tap that low because on the sr20 the oil pan is always full, so the oil return wont draing back In reality, people have done this with many other motors and have never had an issue Something you need to decide.

Looking to purchase some arizona Z parts, checking if anybody wants to sell there stuff before I decide to buy it brand new. I am looking for Arizona Z Car Wilwood Front and Rear Brake kits Arizona Z car Front control arms with tension rods Arizona Z car Rear Control Arms Let me know what you got and how much you are thinking. Thanks

Blow through mafs are common setups, just there isn't too much room on the cold side I/C piping to fit a maf If your creative you can incorporate something similar to this http://www.kstech.biz/catalog/2008_MAF_Flange%20010.jpg But at the same time, some of the best builds are results from keeping things simple. And having a draw through maf setup with an OPEN bov doesn't always run like ****. It depends on the BOV and how responsive it is and whether its open or closed at idle.

I think horsepower numbers added to this would be some what helpful

Thanks for the post, I learned something new. Im going to throw one in this weekend and see if it makes a difference.

Hmm, I dont know how similiar the sr20 alternator is to the RB, but my sr20 alternator has no diode in it and my car runs great and holds 14 volts while running. It was wired up directly from scratch just like I posted.

If its a 2 plug connector Then white/red stripe goes to switched 12 volt Other Color goes to constant 12 volt Run a wire from the alternator post to the battery Thats it

Shoot me a text I might've cruising tonight 847 873 9649

That is too funny, I live in Buffalo Grove and store my car in Mt. Prospect, I wouldn't mind dropping by some time tomorrow if your free between 7-9pm. Pm me your number if your comfortable I put my car together a while ago already, the thread is either m12x1.25 or m14x1.5 I dont remember which but that fitting is exactly what I used for oil pressure, none the less it would work for coolant. You can also avoid that fitting, its been a while since I've played with an RB but on the water neck there should be 2 senders, one for the gauge cluster, one to the ecu. You can simply take the one out that would goto the gauge and re-tap it for 1/8 npt and screw the sender in there instead of buying fittings.

This is how my car idles with no iacv. That is 1100 rpm, before aI adjusted the throttle screw and set the base timing. You are in Illnois, so am I, what part are you in? I am very good at wiring if you need help.

Ive answered that for you multiple times, if you dont understand this then goodluck. Your reverse lights have 2 wires, one for power one for ground. GROUND ONE, on the other one, run it to the any of the 2 wires on the reverse light switch, then the other wire on the reversel ight switch goes to a switched 12 volt Your speedo wires like this 2 wires on the speedmeter, ground one of them, the other one runs to the input of your speedometer. The other possible sensor to wire up is the neutral sensor, I didnt care about it. That is your trans harness....

Decided to test my line lock out, it just makes doing burnouts a real breeze. I dont think I will ever own a rwd car without one. I have the hurst electric one. I did this burnout in 1st gear with a major boost leak. VVL Head and e85 coming soon

Take the IACV under the manifold, make a plate out of aluminum and weld it shut. You can set your idle rpm with the throttle screw. I have done this with 2 different RB's and my sr20, using the same exact manifold. With a 272 duration, 12.5mm Cam, my idle is a solid 900 rpm.

Your harness from them will be simple, the only wires to wire up on it should be switched 12 volt, constant 12 volt, and a ground., maybe a fuel pump 12 volt suppply too.

I those guys are good guys, but myself I have never seen their product. I would imagine it comes with a 4 fuse block and 3 relays, one for fuel, ignition, and ecu. And it should come with wires labeled, there would only be about 2-4 wires to wire up with a harness from them. Also, not saying you dont, but if you did have their harness, it wouldnt even make sense to post up that diagram, seeing as there harness would be complete and have instructions. Lastly, you do NOT need the trans harness. If you want a working speedometer, you will need to buy an electric speedometer and wire it up directly to the sensor in your trans. If you want your reverse lights to work, its like I told you before, the reverse light sensor on the trans closes/opens the ground path on the light circuit. I am seriously debating making a post a how to wire up an sr20 in any chassis thread