mr jdm

I dont know if what you guys are installing is the OEM stuff. I have an actual RHD car, and my car came with fender mirrors, but they are power fender mirrors. Did Nissan really offer a power and non power version back in the day?

I was busy parting out a miata today, all I did was do a compression test and when I got zero on two cylinders I knew it was the chain and just popped the valve cover. I will take the head off probably on wednesday some time and see what I got going on. I am really hoping there isn't major damage. The chain slipped off at only 2,500 rpm.

Pyro, this will be my last point. An Sr20det, without boost, makes about 140hp at the crank. We will use that as your base example. 140 Crank hp with 14.7 psi on a gt25r = your calculator answer, now if you tell me 140 crank hp with 14.7 on a gt42r = that same calculator answer, well, Im going to laugh.

It's a wack calculator. PSI itself has not much to do with power levels. All things a side, 14.7 psi on a gt25r compared to 14.7 psi on a gt35r, not the same power. Psi doesn't matter, flow does. The entire car has been rewired, engine harness and body harness. In the back is a fuel cell, -8 feed and return lines, and an external walbro, which a second one will be added in time along with larger injectors. I think it might be possible to clear 500whp, if I just add 4-5psi and raise the redline to 7,800 rpm with 72lb ijectors running 50 psi base if you are ok accepting a 90-92% duty cycle. Anyways, right now I dont even have a running car. I will look into tomorrow and update the thread.

Those calculators are completely worthless, one major factor they dont input is RPM. Since we are talking about only peak output, where its going to redline is going to make a major change. The car made 400whp at 6,600 rpm on 18 psi. We upped the redline to 7k with no other changes and gained 30whp.

I am sure my sr20det without a turbo wouldn't dyno more than 155-160whp. Hitting 193whp on a non bosted sr20, only happens if you are using vvl head.

The car sounds nothing like this in person. Thats what you get when you use a cell phone to film dyno runs, can't even hear it when the turbo kicks in.

I dont know how you got this, but I would be more than happy to be in the 480whp range, let alone if it clears 500whp which was my original goal. but right now, my car has 0 HP, from 430whp in one day to 0 an hour later.

The car peaked at 430whp at 18psi at a 7k rpm redline. My boost controller was not working, no matter what we did it did not respond. Knowing I would have to come back, I left it at that. The plan was to leave and come back later, run 22-24 psi and set the redline at 7800 rpm. On the second session I was sure I would clear 470-480 whp and be extremely happy. After the dyno, I went home and rescheduled my second session for 4 weeks later, so I would have some time to work out a few minor kinks and find a decent boost controller. Driving home, I kept it under 3,500 RPM light load, it would only be MY luck that something bad happens. On the drive home my motor INSTANTLY shut down, almost as if the CAS, Ignitor, or Timing Chain snapped. I mean instantly. The car will still crank, not even a SIGN of it trying to fire back up. I was extremely tired, I did check though my injectors and coils have 12 volts. Tomorrow I will I will start the diasnostic. First seeing if the CAS is ok by visually seeing the injectors spray and spark firing with a coil removed. If the CAS is ok, that only leaves the Ignitor if there is no spark. Il do a compression test also, I think the motor threw a rocker arm, but I am just shocked. 30 + HARD pulls on the dyno, not a single problem. Driving home under 3,500 rpm and the problem arises. I am beyond frustrated and exhausted.

Tomorrow if the day. tonight I'm going to go over a few things on the car. I will not be installing a second walbro before tomorrow. I am going to keep an eyeo n the fuel pressure gauge and hope it holds. I coudn't get a billet Y block to run the lines in time. Also, I talked to a few high horsepower evo's and they were doing alright with 500awp with a single walbro in tank. Hopevertyhing works out, if she blows she will be in the garage until next year.

A+ for effort for sure. But that is a lot of fab work considering a bigger radiator and slim fans would have been a much more simple effort and would do the job

I picked the spot on the intercooler because I wanted to keep my intercooler pipes clean looking. What exactly do you mean by the gate? The throttle plate or the wastegate, whatever you heard, from whoever sounded like they were talking to much and lack actual experience. It wouldn't matter where you kill the pressure in the system, it only gets killed for a split second. God dammit man, whyd you have to go and tell me that. I guess Ill be throwing that second walbro inline before the 5th...

I dont have the manual open right now If you want to wire up the reverse lights, most likely ground runs through the reverse light sensor, ground in, then ground out goes to the groundon the reverse lights. Then you have to just have to run power to the reverse lights, they will light up when you complete the circuit. I'm slightly confused how you could wire up the engine harness but have a problem with the reverse lights? Since I do not have the manual open, either power or ground runs through the reverse sensor. its more than likely ground.

The journey is almost over for me, minus a few very very minor details. I am scheduled to go to the dyno on the 5th next month, where I hope to make my 500whp goal on pump gas. I would really like to hit 500 on 22 psi, but I might consider running as much as 24 on pump. I will post up a video and dyno results shortly. I really hope the motor holds it together. The car is fully gutted with aluminum dash and a fuel cell in the back. There is no a/c, heat, or power steering. Even been thinking about going with an electric water pump lately. The ultimate goal for the car wasn't so much the 500whp dyno, but running a 10.9 or faster on the strip. Of course on slicks and with a 2 step. Sr20det Stock bottom end Arp Head Studs Cometic Head Gasket BC Valves, Springs, retainers Tomei 272 12.5mm lift cams Peakboost Exhaust Manifold SC6176 .82 turbine housing 3" Short exhaust Ebay Intake manifold (I might build my own, I should have but I'll see how it holds up) 100mm throttle body w/ 3" intercooler piping around 72lb injectors Aeromotive FPR (Pressure will probably be set closer to 4 bar than 3 bar) Single external walbro, if theres an issue I have one more external I might setup And we will be tuning on a Haltech e8, which has been nothing but easy to use.

Here my overall thoughts on the hood. It fits great, the gaps are are perfect. However, this hood is VERY thin. You need to make it stronger. I would have gladly paid an extra 150-200 to make sure it comes stronger if I knew this is what I would get. But I have no problem doing it myself. If anybody is thinking about buying from prod bodies, keep this in mind.

I'm trying to find out if my pins are in a good location I don't want to start another thread for it up get pics underside later its just flat with a an x brace underneath

I'm trying to find out if my pins are in a good location I don't want to start another thread for it up get pics underside later its just flat with a an x brace underneath

My hood has way to much movement while driving. Maybe its my hood pin placement. What do you think where I put the pins are they too close to the corners? Enjoy the art work

Bump

I was thinking about that, Im all for function over form, but I dont know how I'm going to feel with 6 pins on my hood.

I have never purchased fiberglass or cf parts before. Here is my take on it so far. The hod itself looks good and nearly fits perfect. The corners are in good shape. It ships with padding in wood frame cardbood box. There is an x brace underneath the hood that goes from all 4 corners through the center of the hood. I do however, have the hood pinned down in all 4 corners, using some brackets by the headlight buckets. While driving around 70-80 mph. My hood is "lifting" or "flexing" in the center. It isn't coming up where the pins are, but the distance between the pins lifts up. Anything I can do about this?

I read somewhere that Big Phil got his center caps on. I would really like to get some advice or ideas on this. Any suggestions? Anybody, all the insane fabrication on this forum, I need some help!