mr jdm

Yea whats going on, I spent some time looking for you on her but had no luck. Il be at the dragon 3 times this summer twice with bike and maybe once with the car. Here are the engine mods only Haltech E8 72 lb injectors JWT Rail AFR Walbro 255 Arp Studs Cometic HG BC 272 12.5mm lift cams BC Valves, springs, and retainers Peak Boost Equal Length Tial 38mm Sc61 76 trim .82 a/r 3" Side Exit exhaust Profec E01 JGy 9lb Flywheel UR Pullies Modfied Ebay Intake Manifold 100mm Throttle Body Summit Fuel Cell -8 SS Braided Lines entire system Griffin Radiator FMIC Il add spitfire coils if I think Il need them on the dyno.

If hes going 10.70, that weight shift is pretty insignificant.

So, finally started her today. The haltech e8 is the first standalone I have ever used. I wired up the entire car from scratch and let me tell you. I never would have expected everything to be so EASY when you understand wiring and can spend a good two hours studying the haltech manual. She started first try,

I had a 280z stock clutch master and it worked the clutch completely normally

You can find a 3.30 iirc that fits the r200.

Im not to sure if your dead set on going with an internal pump. But for much less you can grab this. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-293215-S/ and have external walbro or a1000 and still come out on top of the price of that cell.

How much PSI depends on what turbo you are running. My last car, I was running 22psi daily on 93 with a gt35r and never had a problem. You need to make sure the car holds a good a/f ratio through boost. Ive used many boost controllers and the Profec E01 has been the most user friendly and very easy to setup. You can pick one up for 250 used spending a little bit of time looking for one.

I own a 280z 2/2 rhd.

I need a mustache bar asap for my 280z for a r200 diff. The shop cut out the inner shell to install the bushings even though I told them not to. Please pm me or post here. I need this asap.

Heres some progress, my goal is to finish the car within 28 days

My car isnt finished yet, thought I would add an updated engine bay shot.

maybe its just me, what prevents the cell from moving side to side?

Those are the xxr/sportmax 16x8 with 245s all round.

Heres mine, painted sti aspen white

Thanks a lot

I got the car back today from paint. It was painted Subaru Aspen White, 51e All if left to do is re-assemble it with the exception of redoing my fuel cell mount and adding my 4 point roll bar.

Here some better pics, I'm trying to finish up the asap. Last big job is to weld in the roll bar.

In my pic they are 513's Il post pics as soon as the car is back.

Thats white primer, I will have my car back in 5 days, it is going to be Aspen White, 51e. Thats Subaru Sti white.

Just like title says, need an extra s30 cross member because I want to try something out. Let me know if you have one. Thanks.

JUst like title says, I need the aluminum spacer that goes between a booster and master. I need this asap, if you have it please just call me 847-873-9649. Your help would be appreciated.

hey, I ended up buying a tilton clutch master for about 100 from summit. It lines up with all the holes on the firewall. The actual body of the tilton is 2" shorter than the stock one. Problem solved.

I tried finding them right now, but harbor freight sells these cool zip ties. They have a base that has strong double sided tape on it. You stick it to a surface, then run the wires through the zip tie and close it. Il take a pic of them tonight and try to find them on their website.

nevermind.

I dont know how you are wiring up your car. But I am temporarily going to run the stock ecu/maf/injectors to make sure everything is ok. You dont have to mess with any of the sr20 harness one small section off it. The sections is explained here. http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-Engine-Harness-Wiring-Diagram-Guide-SR-SR20_t_26.html Its at the bottom of the website. Just cross reference everything that needs 12 volts with the body harness of your car. Remember that on FRsport, Red / Black stripe Red / Black stripe ECU relay This wire refers to the GROUND of the ECU relay.