mr jdm

Nobody has anything, so many people run xxr's on here

Try replacing the chain, maybe it was stretched too much, also, try reving it up with the clutch pedal down.

After listening better, I dont think its related to the timing chain. Try this, while your friend hold the throttle slightly open to amplify the noise, start pulling one coil pack off at a time. And see if the noise follows a cylinder.

Remove this from your motor http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/304421-sr20det-lose-upper-chain-guide-no.html AND replace your timing chain tensioner

Has anybody come up with a solution to get the center caps to fit on the front to clear the wheel bearing bolt The wheels are xxr 512s My original plan was to just get rid of the factory grease cap, since the wheel sits so close I think it would seal it enough for the grease to stay in there. I was also planning on greasing it often. However, even with the factory grease cap, it will not clear it. All I can think of is cutting some threads off or using a wheel spacer. However, I dont think I would be comfortable using a wheel spacer because my 245's are already cutting it close for rubbing. Any ideas?

It will be here on Monday, can't wait, and hope I wont be posting how shitty it is. HA!

I dont want to discuss your pricing any further in this thread. Il post pics when the fiberglass hood gets here.

If you took a video and had a sound clip it would be easier to help you out

I wish I could have gotten the Protoype Composites hood, they recently moved and when they did they didn't keep their datsun mold.Your prices are fine, but 98 dollars for a box does seem a little bit silly to me.

Even comparing your FG hood to their FG hood, you are 455 before shipping and they are at 230. Comparing quality would probably be a different ball park though.

I have changed my plugs and gapped them to .030 since my flooding incident. The oil has been changed twice as well. All the settings in the Haltech are correct. Completely stock ignition system and wired correctly.

I am having a hard timing telling if the car is misfiring, I think it is, however, all 4 injectors spray, and 4 all coils spark. My autometer boost gauge, greddy e01, and haltech map, all have the same read out. My vacuum is about 10-11, I have 272 cams, NO IACV and the idle at the moment is usually around 1400, but a a very steady 1400. Reasons I think it's misfiring 1) Light sound of a wrx (known for misfire on sr20s) 2) My autometer tachometer is cutting in and out, and it is wired using a MSD tach adapter, which senses PULSE on the 12 volt wire that supplies power to the coils

So, Just ordered a fiberglass hood from prodbodies, Il see how it goes when it gets here. I really wanted to get a carbon fiber hood from prototype composites in WI, but he told me today he tossed his datsun mold. My next choice was Beta Motorsports but at 1,000 shipped. No chance. Now, my car is not a budget build by any means, however, theres 2 places I cant justify spending big cash on. That's wheels and a CF hood. When the hood gets here, I plan on wrapping it in 3m Di-Noc. Il post pics when it arrives

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=237216 http://www.sr20forum.com/turbo/133993-fuel-pressure-key.html Forget what I described, I just want to put out there that it is completely normal for an aeromotive FPR to drop to 0 if the pump is done priming, or not running. That doesn't mean it isnt working properly.

Everything got fixed as of today. My motor was flooded from the 1/2 mile drive before setting fuel pressure. Let me clear things up for people that find this as a search result. Everything on my car is perfectly functioning. If you have an Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator, when you put your ignition to the ON position and your pump is priming, it will register fuel, when it STOPS pumping, it will drop to 0. It will NOT hold it. If you want to set your fuel pressure, make sure the "prime" is bypassed and the fuel pump stays running as it would while the car is running. Set the pressure, then start your car.

After doing a little bit of research, it turns out that aeromotive fpr DO NOT hold fuel pressure after the pump is done priming. When my car was running great, I took it around the block twice, the first time around it drove great, the second time it got VERY slugish, I barely got back to my shop. At this point I realized I forgot to adjust the fuel pressure, and I am predicting it was running anywhere from 60-80psi. Today, I hard wired the pump is stayed running the entire time, I made adjustments on the FPR and the gauge read accordingly. I also pulled 4 spark plugs out, they are ALL full of carbon build up and you can smell gas on them. I'm pretty sure the only thing that happened was my motor flooded on my little 1/2 mile drive do not setting the pressure.

I was working on the car today. Here is where I am at. When you install a haltech,it controls how long the fuel pump primes for. I have it set at 5 seconds, after 5 seconds it stops priming and when the car starts it turns on again. That is just a side note. Today I bypassed the fuel filter, in hopes that it was clogged to the point where it was the problem. That is not the case RTz, I tried doing what you suggested, pinching the line. THe pressure stayed down, however, I have only -8 stainless steel braided lines, so telling if I pinched the line completely down is kind of hard. It just so happens I have an extra walbro laying around, I will try to install it tomorrow and see if that fixes the problem. If it doesn't I will be opening up the Aeromotive FPR

yea but before when it dropped to 10-15 psi, you heard loud "squeak", the lines getting pressure. Now when it drops to 0 psi, there is no "squeak" Theres no way its the FPR, I bought it brand new, it has had 5 starts on it and 1/2 mile of driving on it.

Heres the fuel setup Fuel cell -> external walbro pump -> filter-> fuel rail IN -> fuel rail OUT -> into Aeromotive FPR -> return line to cell The car has been wired from scratch completely, its running a haltech e8. Here is a video of it idling perfect *********************************************** Now, before you would get in the car, flip the ignition switch, flip the fuel pump switch, you would HEAR either the lines get pressurized or the AFPR do work. The gauge would read around 50, then SLOWLY drop to about 10-15 *********************************************** Problem: I get into the car, I am flipping both switches, the pump is pumping, my fuel pressure gauge registers 50-60 psi for a SPLIT second the goes straight to 0 very fast. I was trying to start the car today and the car would not start, there is no pressure in the rail. Any ideas for a solution or where to look?

I dropped mine off at a wonderful shop, where they are crazy. It was 20 bucks for them to get it in and out.

Just like title says, need a carbon fiber hood for my car. Must be in excellent condition, will pay good money for one.

My friend had this problem for a long time when we swapped his rb25 into his 240sx years back. A lot of people didnt have the setup at the time, after 3-4 months, he swapped out the plugs and changed the gap and it ran perfect.

If your asking these questions, I dont think you are capable of completing the project. Find somebody to help you, the forum will not answer every little question.

I cant believe I cant get it to fit, but how da hell did you get an O Ring to fit, ive stretched and heated and cant an o-ring to fit in between.