mr jdm

I have one, and I have threads on this forum. It doesnt hit the brake booster, IIRC a stock intake manifold will clear everything, once you buy an aftermarket money, greddy, freddy, or aluminum, it will hit the body of the clutch master cylinder. Not the brake booster. Your solution, is to buy a shorter tilton series master cylinder. It bolts right up to the holes on the Z body.

Rebuilt 15/16 master with 2 4oz tilton reservoirs. Its leaking at the bottom, slowly, but still leaking. Tried 2 different clamps couldnt get it to seal. Recommend an O-Ring?

I have this setup, and without an O-ring or some kind of solution they are slowly leaking. I'm going to try to fit an O ring around it.

Anybody try this? Does it fit without problems? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MK1-S1-STEERING-WHEEL-HUB-FITS-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280ZX-/370344772856?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item563a44c4f8

I have 16x8 0mm and running 245/50. My car is lowered, but not as much as yours, I havent had an issue with rubbing. Picture is before paint and body work

on a manual trans car its not a "launch control" its just to make it easier to do a burn out.

I have the same line lock, cant wait to use, first time having one installed.

I hate making simple threads, but I'm looking for quick answer. I what size are the bolts that clamp down the steering shaft to the rack and the other end by the bushing. There is one bolt at each end. It clamps down around the splines. I took it to the hardware store and couldn't find anything that went in smooth. They are 8 or 10mm, but what is the pitch.

I think its more comfortable to drive a RHD car if you are right handed. I say this because I would rather keep my dominant hand on the steering wheel instead of the shifter.

instead of swapping firewalls, It might be easier to weld in sheet metal in the firewall and re-drill the holes you need.

I have a RHD Harness, Dash, and Wiper assembly. I believe the harness is 100% uncut but would have to double check.

The s14 FSM says to bleed it the way I have been doing it watch this video at the 18:15 mark http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-m5F0zEvyo What he is doing is the complete opposite of what the s14 fsm states. Any advice?

My clevice is fully extended away from the master, can that be the issue?

I have a sr20det in my z. I had to go with a shorter clutch master due to the car being RHD and running the intake manifold I wanted. I am using this clutch master http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TIL-75-625U/ My friend sits in the car pumps the pedal and holds it down. I open bleeder, close it. He releases, and then pumps again and we repeat that. Before mentioning that a 3/4" master is needed, I wouldn't think so. When I bought the car originally the stock Z clutch master was kept to actuate the s13 slave. It worked perfectly. I have a solid stream coming out, however my clutch pedal is still hitting the floor and only moves the fork about 1/4" max to disengage the clutch. Is there anything that I missed?

It needs to be shortened around 2" depending how you mount your motor. Should cost you around 80 bucks at an axle shop

I doubt the full race will clear. Is there something you have against running a peak boost? Its Lifetime warranty, equal length

Go to home depot and buy 90 degree angle aluminum. And cut it.

If this is the manifold you want. I have no first hand experience with clearance with this. My car is RHD and I am runing a peak boost manifold http://www.full-race.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1065 I think your going to run into clearance issues when trying to clear the brake booster or the clutch master Also, if the turbo is mounted out to far from the block, you might run into the strut tower for clearance. Here is my pic for reference.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTP-14-2002/

Yea thanks for the info. Nissan has 2 part numbers for a non turbo.

I dont think that would be true, most if not all the parts store I called dont ask for the model, they ask if its turbo or not. Any other suggestions? What is the diameter of the correct rotor I should be using of 84 300zx

That is if your looking to swap a stock motor in and leave it stock. As soon as you start buying quality parts such as an intake manifold, cams, exhaust manifold if you plan on running a top mount single setup. Those parts are usually twice if not three times more expensive than an SR. Clutches and flywheels are not cheap for the RB either.

I installed the 4x4 setup, used 84 non turbo rotors with a spacer. Here are the pics of what I think is the problem. My rotor seems not large enough in diameter if you look at the caliper from the top view you can actually see about 1/4" of brake pad that will never make contact with the rotor. Is this how everybody has been running their brakes?

I dont think the lag will be to bad, a lot of smaller motors running gt4088's out there.