pat1

Your air fuel ratios are way out. 10.5 is rich as hell. That's just will make your eye water standing behind it. Lol 14.7-15.1 cruising fuel Econ. Accel 11.5-12.3 that's in the boost. I'm running standalone no wires are crossed lol. I'm on the gas a lot and that why it's getting bad mileage. But I don't care I didn't build it to get good fuel mileage. I build it to beat the hell out if it. I've been tuning it a little lately. I'll see what I can get out of a tank and report back. 446hp @16 psi on a stock bottom end 1jz is running pretty good. I promise that there are no crossed wires.... Lol

I have a rear one make me a offer

There you go.. Your going to be a lot happier with the Lincoln 180. That's a great machine. If you had both machines side by side and you used both you will see the difference right away. From the arc to the wire feed to the gas control.The torch on the eastwood sucked bad.

I read a lot of positive reviews also that's why I bought it. I'm glad they had that 30 day money back policy. I weld A LOT and I need a quality tool to do the job. After using the welder I got I wouldn't used it on any and I mean any suspension parts. The welds did not penetrate and were very inconsistent. I just didn't trust it so back into the box it went. You might have better luck than I did and I hope you do. Nothing sucks worse than having to stop in the middle of a job to go buy a new welder. The funny thing my wife was laughing at me when I got it. She saw the MADE IN CHINA on the box and said Goodluck!

Maybe I got a bad one. Do a little research on the inter web and you will find a lot of complaints about these Chinese welders. After I had my problems I found the same welder for 249 bucks. It was exactly the same specs . I got my money back and got a Lincoln. My last Lincoln lasted 20 years.

Don't waste your time on that welder. Total piece of JUNK!!! I had one for 2 hours and every part of it was crap. The regulator didn't work out of the box. The welder worked fine for about 3.5 minutes. The welds were inconsistent. The penetration was sub par at best. You had to purge the gas every time. It had a internal gas leak. Do yourself a favor and return it and get a American made welder (Red or blue) and start enjoying metal work.

Give Turbo Dave a call 770-537-6261 he's located in Powder springs.

I installed my nistune board myself. It was pretty easy. PM Xylemer he's a member on hybridz. I bought mine from him and he gave me the option of having him install the board. He's located in TN.

Go with NIStune. I had it and it was great. Easy to work with and tune.

I have a set of 250lb 2.5 x10 inch long bnib

Interesting. I could of save you a lot of time. Let me know if you need any aluminum welded. I've seen that car and engine before........

What rear sump pan did you use? I make rear sump pans to fit a S130. A s30 rear sump pan will NOT fit a S130.

You can do all that with a RB. Parts are not expensive, you just have to know were to find them. A lot if the parts fit other nissan engines here in the states. You can find anything on the internet. In fact the part prices are getting cheaper. Servicing a RB isn't any harder than working in a L motor. It's all nuts and bolts. It sounds like your talking yourself out of it. If you know what your doing the rb isn't any harder to work on and is reliable as any motor available. I had 3 sets if triples on my stroker now that was a bitch to tune. Jets were hard to find and had to be ordered. Jets,tubes mains,pilots,chokes all times 6 =$$$$

That rb25 will walk all over that 3.0 liter any day if the week. I had a rb20 that out ran my 3.0 liter stroker. That rb25 is a very easy swap. My 3.0 liter was fun but my first ride in my rb20 swap I was happy I did my rb swap.

^^^^^^^^^^ agreed 100%. Follow the K.I.S.S. Rule.

Watch out when you rotate the pan like that the angle of the pan is in the wrong side. When the engine is in the car the left side of the engine sits 1.0-1.5 inches lower than the right. When you swap the pan like that the angle is on the opposite side. When the angle is on the opposite side there isn't enough oil around the pickup at all times.

A 6262 is a badass turbo the supra guys love them. What size exhaust housing? The A/R make a huge difference in spool.

I have a non vvti. I don't drive it hard all the time but it really doesn't matter if I do. I have HKS 272/264 cams 550 injectors and stinger standalone and a PT61 turbo. 446hp@16 psi When it was some what stock I never got over 18mpg. That's with the PT61 turbo and stock 440 injectors and the stock ecu and a apex I neo

It's very easy you can have a rb running in a few minutes with a few powers and grounds. Now that just to get it running you will have a few more wire to run for heated o2,iac,switched powers,starter remote and a few more. I can't remember how many but I believe it was under 15 wires for everything. Grab a wiring diagram and a ecu pin out and go to town.

What do you mean by swap harness? I did the swap and I used the rb wiring and made my own harness. Is that what you are asking? I used a painless 7 circuit harness. Very easy if you know what your doing.

My 1jz gets 16 mpg if I'm lucky. Toyota JZ motors suck down fuel.

Thanks guys. This means a lot to me. You guys are AWESOME! I'll keep building these to support you guys. If anybody needs anything just let me know.

If you need a pan let me know. My offer still stands from our PM's from earlier this year. My pans hold more oil and work with all mounts. I offer a few price ranges and can build you any custom pan anyone needs for the rb engine from mild to wild. Anything anyone needs. Custom HAND made and made in the USA. Not in china

I'm running a 1bar spring and a tial 38mm waste gate.

A good quality 38mm will do. I have a tial waste gate on my 1JZ with a pt-61 turbo boosting 20lbs with no problems. I have no boost spikes. I had two turbonetics 38mm that would over boost and boost spike all the time. I swapped it out for a tial and never had a problem.