pat1

I'm still alive. I don't get on this forum a lot anymore. I'm still making these but a lot slower these days. Due to the Crazy rush times I have had to step down a bit. If you're not in a crazy rush contact me @ p.bowser@comcast.net.

I fixed my PM's. Please Pm me thanks

Ngk bpr6es is all you need. Less than 3 bucks a plugs. You're just throwing your money away with the iridium. With the money you save you can get a better tuning device.

If you need a rear sump pan let me know. I have a few price levels I offer. Pm me.

I can build you a oil pan if you like. My prices start at $270.00. Pm me for details.

It really depends on how you do it. You can do this swap for under 2k and as high as you want it.

How much as you looking to spend?

A front facing Manifold isn't needed. You have to slot the crossmember. Your mounts are not sitting correctly.

I would like to see some pics. Something isn't right it should clear.

What both these modules do is trick the ecu. Ok let's say the boost cut is set @ 14 psi so anything you hit 14psi the ecu cuts the fuel and the power is cut. What these modules do is lie to the ecu. It tells the ecu that it's only 13 psi and then you can boost to the moon. But there is a problem. Now all the ecu sees is 13 psi and never adds any fuel or pulls timing to account to the extra boost. Guess what happens? That one time you pull next to your buddy's honda to run him and hit MAD boost and BOOM! Done.

Both are the samething just different names. A good way to blow up a motor.

What year 300zx?

It will run with the 280z stock pump but I wouldn't suggest it. It's not going to supply enough fuel. Get a Walbro inline pump. You can get one for 130.00

I have always used a dropping resistor and never had a problem with the stock tach and aftermarket tach. It's very possible that you damaged the ecu trying to attach a tach. I believe the stock tach uses a positive signal and a RB ecu sends a negative signal or vise versa I can't remember.

PM sent. Thanks

PM replied.

We all know that cx racing stuff is pure junk with NO customer service. Take a couple minutes a Google "cxracing problems" or " cx racing junk" Most of the stuff now a days is manufactured in China due to labor cost but let's be real. BUY AMERICAN or at least from a trusted source. Do it once and do it right. Spend a few bucks more the first time.

That's rod knock. Pull the oil pan off and inspect the rod bearings.

Yes sir I am. Pm me for details Thank you Wedge and Steve72 for the kind words.

I will ask one question. What's cx racing reputation on everything they make? Cheap Chinese crap. How's their customer service? From what I have read it's pretty bad.This oil pan hold the oil of your $$$$$ motor. Cheaper isn't better. Do it once and do it right!

I think you need to do a crate motor because building engines isn't your thing. Please don't take it wrong but this is getting pretty expensive for you. Get a LS crate motor and slap a super charger on it and call it a day. When I say crate motor I mean do not take it apart.Take it out of the box and install and ENJOY. That's it!!

This is very common with the rb motors. You can buy a collared bolt that prevents this from happening. I had it on my rb. 196nm is 144 ft lbs,that's too tight. It's 43-56 nm if I'm reading the manual correctly. It's a bit blurry on the inter web. 196nn is tighter than a banjo string. I've always done it by feel. I bet that belt was singing.

Well they missed something or your doing something wrong. This keeps happening each time. I've been turning wrenches for a living for over twenty years and I have seen a lot of messed up crap but never 3 times in a row and to the same person. Something is being done incorrectly or is being over looked.

Did u have the block inspected ?

I agree with you 100% Avernier.