gira

Will the stock tachometer work with that Dizzy and ignition? Greg

Here is the real answer. I've been racing Z's for 20 years, all different build types. Get a helmet with a fresh air vent. It's a foolproof method. I always have used the fuel rail cooler fan from the fuel injected ZX because it blows just right and doesn't use gobs of power. There are many brands of this. I prefer the helmet with the top air inlet as it doesn't bind and distract you when you turn your head back and forth. You can chase fume leaks until you're red faced, literally. This is the only thing I have depended on. We run 110 octane leaded fuel. Believe me, you know for a day or two that you were on the fumes. Greg Ira

FYI, I bought the OBX from Ebay. It's a different part number than the earlier ones in the threads. Brand new out of the box the washers were screwed. One was already broken and wedged into the retainer housing. Just so people will know that as of this point, the OBX people have not forked up the few dollars for decent washer. Wonder wtf is the reason for that. I mean, you'd think they could by in bulk and get a killer deal. Greg

To me, race engines are not disposable, because I spend a lot of money and time making them perfect, or having them made perfect. Therefore, early warning devices are mandatory ESPECIALLY if you're going to have drivers in the car that aren't particularly familiar with it! Twice in the last 3 years, the early warning devices have saved me big time and the last time was at the 2016 SCCA National Championships at Mid Ohio. To make a long story short, I lost my dry sump oil pump belt. In car data shows the engine ran 14 seconds after the OP dropped to Zero. I literally thought I caught it immediately. I run Redline synthetic oil and cutting the oil filter showed no particles, Phew! We went on to podium. This save was because of a simple oil pressure light mounted in a visible location and shielded from the overhead sun. I also have a water pressure warning lamp. I believe this to be even better than a water temp warning. If there's a pinhole in the system, the lamp will light and you can chase the issue before it burns up. Regards, Greg Ira

Folks, I almost forgot. I bought a rear spoiler from Retro-Spec. I also ordered this with weight in mind. It's carbon and I notified them I would be painting it. The quality of the job was darn good and it weighed under 3 lbs. It is the taller BRE type spoiler. Greg

FWIW, I have a ZTrix hood on my 2X Nat Champ EP car. It weights 10 lbs and was weighed with an accurate scale. I asked John Washington to lay this up with weight in mind. The hood is sufficiently stiff and doesn't have any CF in it. It's pretty surprising really. I bought some more of these recently with John and they weighed 13.5 lbs. I assume this hood would work properly with the front torsion mechanism on the stock Z, but we don't use that or the rear latch. Hope this helps. Greg Ira

Sounds like a rod to me too. Let us know what you find.

Nah, it's for a streetcar that needs to have a reliable idle. G

Guys, Is there a way to tell if the carbs are worn out without some elaborate set up to tell if the shafts are leaking? I assume someone that knows what they're doing can sort of look at them, wiggle them some, and tell if they're going to work properly. I am mainly asking about shaft play. What is acceptable? Thank you, Greg

Thanks guys. Yeah, here's the real problem. I can't verify it'll fit. I mean it mentions everything except the 280ZX. It's hard to tell if I am looking at the correct part. I actually have the part number from the threads too, and the part number associated with the ones for sale on ebay do not match. Greg

Folks, I need an LSD unit and I have read a bunch of stuff about these diffs. I read enough to finally make me comfortable enough to try one on one of my race cars. NOW, I can't freakin find one! Any idea of where to find one. I've tried Ebay and other typical web searches. Thanks very much, Greg Ira

Hi everyone, I have an R200 that I am trying to build up and it's missing the companion flange at the front of the diff. If anyone has an old diff they won't be using and can remove one, that would be great. Contact me. Greg Ira

plygasser47, Let me put in my two cents worth. They're not "EP" tires, as these size tires can be run in many classes. So there is not such thing as an EP tire. My favorite of all time the Goodyear 1782. Its a bias slick. If you want to lay down some fast times, use these. Goodyear is struggling with trying to get back into SCCA and doesn't really have their new compounding finished yet. The Hoosier R7 is a great tire, and my next favorite. It's a grooved DOT spec tire and you probably should run a slick since you're allowed. Hoosier makes a slick radial too called the S80. This tire never worked that great on the Z. Don't ask me to explain, I just couldn't get anywhere near the grip with that tire as I could with the cantilever. The sidewall is so soft that you'll have to change your spring rates big time. The lotus, and the miatias have reacted well to this tire but I proved to myself that Hoosier went backwards for me when they went from the Hoosier r80 to the s80. The setups between the cantilever and the radial are totally different, so I recommend choosing what's best for you and sticking with it. Fast laps- GY1782 430 compound longevity -Hoosier S80 longevity--hoosier r7 Greg Ira

I know what you are looking for. I have two of them and they do work for road racing. Unfortunately mine are not for sale and I hear recently they're going for around 6k now, so you better be ready to pay big money. Greg

NewZed, Super pictures. So, the pickup tube that goes to the engine enters the baffle pretty high up, like 3"+ if I had to guess. Do we know if it turns down inside there? It seems we would have better luck using the return line, as it enters the bottom of the baffle and would have a better chance at emptying the tank. Am I looking at this wrong? Greg