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gira

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Everything posted by gira

  1. Here is the real answer. I've been racing Z's for 20 years, all different build types. Get a helmet with a fresh air vent. It's a foolproof method. I always have used the fuel rail cooler fan from the fuel injected ZX because it blows just right and doesn't use gobs of power. There are many brands of this. I prefer the helmet with the top air inlet as it doesn't bind and distract you when you turn your head back and forth. You can chase fume leaks until you're red faced, literally. This is the only thing I have depended on. We run 110 octane leaded fuel. Believe me, you know for a day or two that you were on the fumes. Greg Ira
  2. gira

    OBX LSD R200

    FYI, I bought the OBX from Ebay. It's a different part number than the earlier ones in the threads. Brand new out of the box the washers were screwed. One was already broken and wedged into the retainer housing. Just so people will know that as of this point, the OBX people have not forked up the few dollars for decent washer. Wonder wtf is the reason for that. I mean, you'd think they could by in bulk and get a killer deal. Greg
  3. To me, race engines are not disposable, because I spend a lot of money and time making them perfect, or having them made perfect. Therefore, early warning devices are mandatory ESPECIALLY if you're going to have drivers in the car that aren't particularly familiar with it! Twice in the last 3 years, the early warning devices have saved me big time and the last time was at the 2016 SCCA National Championships at Mid Ohio. To make a long story short, I lost my dry sump oil pump belt. In car data shows the engine ran 14 seconds after the OP dropped to Zero. I literally thought I caught it immediately. I run Redline synthetic oil and cutting the oil filter showed no particles, Phew! We went on to podium. This save was because of a simple oil pressure light mounted in a visible location and shielded from the overhead sun. I also have a water pressure warning lamp. I believe this to be even better than a water temp warning. If there's a pinhole in the system, the lamp will light and you can chase the issue before it burns up. Regards, Greg Ira
  4. Folks, I almost forgot. I bought a rear spoiler from Retro-Spec. I also ordered this with weight in mind. It's carbon and I notified them I would be painting it. The quality of the job was darn good and it weighed under 3 lbs. It is the taller BRE type spoiler. Greg
  5. FWIW, I have a ZTrix hood on my 2X Nat Champ EP car. It weights 10 lbs and was weighed with an accurate scale. I asked John Washington to lay this up with weight in mind. The hood is sufficiently stiff and doesn't have any CF in it. It's pretty surprising really. I bought some more of these recently with John and they weighed 13.5 lbs. I assume this hood would work properly with the front torsion mechanism on the stock Z, but we don't use that or the rear latch. Hope this helps. Greg Ira
  6. Sounds like a rod to me too. Let us know what you find.
  7. Nah, it's for a streetcar that needs to have a reliable idle. G
  8. Guys, Is there a way to tell if the carbs are worn out without some elaborate set up to tell if the shafts are leaking? I assume someone that knows what they're doing can sort of look at them, wiggle them some, and tell if they're going to work properly. I am mainly asking about shaft play. What is acceptable? Thank you, Greg
  9. gira

    OBX LSD R200

    Thanks guys. Yeah, here's the real problem. I can't verify it'll fit. I mean it mentions everything except the 280ZX. It's hard to tell if I am looking at the correct part. I actually have the part number from the threads too, and the part number associated with the ones for sale on ebay do not match. Greg
  10. gira

    OBX LSD R200

    Folks, I need an LSD unit and I have read a bunch of stuff about these diffs. I read enough to finally make me comfortable enough to try one on one of my race cars. NOW, I can't freakin find one! Any idea of where to find one. I've tried Ebay and other typical web searches. Thanks very much, Greg Ira
  11. Hi everyone, I have an R200 that I am trying to build up and it's missing the companion flange at the front of the diff. If anyone has an old diff they won't be using and can remove one, that would be great. Contact me. Greg Ira
  12. plygasser47, Let me put in my two cents worth. They're not "EP" tires, as these size tires can be run in many classes. So there is not such thing as an EP tire. My favorite of all time the Goodyear 1782. Its a bias slick. If you want to lay down some fast times, use these. Goodyear is struggling with trying to get back into SCCA and doesn't really have their new compounding finished yet. The Hoosier R7 is a great tire, and my next favorite. It's a grooved DOT spec tire and you probably should run a slick since you're allowed. Hoosier makes a slick radial too called the S80. This tire never worked that great on the Z. Don't ask me to explain, I just couldn't get anywhere near the grip with that tire as I could with the cantilever. The sidewall is so soft that you'll have to change your spring rates big time. The lotus, and the miatias have reacted well to this tire but I proved to myself that Hoosier went backwards for me when they went from the Hoosier r80 to the s80. The setups between the cantilever and the radial are totally different, so I recommend choosing what's best for you and sticking with it. Fast laps- GY1782 430 compound longevity -Hoosier S80 longevity--hoosier r7 Greg Ira
  13. I know what you are looking for. I have two of them and they do work for road racing. Unfortunately mine are not for sale and I hear recently they're going for around 6k now, so you better be ready to pay big money. Greg
  14. NewZed, Super pictures. So, the pickup tube that goes to the engine enters the baffle pretty high up, like 3"+ if I had to guess. Do we know if it turns down inside there? It seems we would have better luck using the return line, as it enters the bottom of the baffle and would have a better chance at emptying the tank. Am I looking at this wrong? Greg
  15. Gentlemen, Thanks for all the great suggestions. This tank was in pretty good shape but I am leaning toward the issue of leaks in the pickup tube. If I added a new fuel pickup line, I'd like to utilize the baffle somehow. Thanks again. Greg
  16. Hello, We have a new/old Chump Car that we've got almost ready. In testing last week at Homestead Motor Speedway, we found the engine would stall because of fuel pressure or lack thereof, in left hand turns. My track fix was to pour more fuel in it. It would run normally with 16 gallons in it, but after 5-10 laps the problem would reoccur. The track runs counter clockwise so this is quite a problem. Essentially, we are able to use about 3 gallons of fuel if we're filled up. We have an SU Carb set up with a 1978 fuel tank, running the return system for the fuel to return to the tank. We were able to get fuel pressure and run the new engine in the garage with only 3 gallons in the tank, so I feel we at least have the pick up plumbed properly. I have run many street cars on the race track and never had this problem. Any ideas for me to check? Thanks, greg ira
  17. I need a 280Z front grill to go on my chump car. Please message me if you have one you'd sell. Thanks, Greg
  18. Josh, The gasket at the oil pump is not an issue. When you drop the pump, it really doesn't drain the system, just a little residual oil comes out. It would be a good technique for an engine on an engine stand too! Regarding accusumps, I have used them in the past but found them to be a pain, take up room, etc. For cars that have a decent oil pan, I don't really need an accusump down here in Florida for cold conditions. Plus, all my race cars are dry sump! Well, for the most part. I had a 240z IT car once with a stock pan, and the accusump was practically mandatory, for braking and cornering forces and oil pressure. See you and thanks for your comment. Greg
  19. YES! I bought some .484" bar stock from McMaster Carr, my all time favorite place to buy off the wall stuff, or anything really. The got it to me in two days with regular shipping. I made a tool similar to what Gareth used, except mine is longer and easy to get a drill on. I left the oil galley plug out so I could see the first drop. But, I couldn't see the galley hole and do the turning of the pump at the same time. SO, BFM in my driveway. It worked. I took the pump out and inspected it. All seemed fine so I primed it. Lesson learned. Thanks for the suggestions folks. Greg
  20. All good information guys. Plenty of oil in the sump. I did not prime the pump and am making a tool to be able to turn with a drill. I will take the pump out and have a good look at it. I have plenty of quality assembly lubricant on the important parts! In the past 10 engines I've built in a similar fashion, all uber clean parts etc, I have been able to get quick OP at the galley by using the starter and spinning the engine with no spark plugs. That has worked well in the past. Thanks again folks. Greg
  21. I have an L28 that I just built up. Got it put back into a 76 280 Z with fuel injection. I am getting no oil pressure out of this thing. The block was hot tanked, etc. It was clean and came from a running car and admittedly I did not chase the galleys out. It looked new almost. I have a Z Source master rebuild kit with whatever oil pump they come with. Any leads on what I might look for first? I mean, I am not getting a drop out of the oil galley sender hole. Thanks Guys, Greg
  22. If all else fails and it still bugs you that they rub when jacked up off the ground, add droop limiting straps to the LCA. It'll let you do pit stops quicker too!
  23. Two quick things. Pardon me if they've been mentioned. Make sure during cam and/or rocker break in to use additional zinc. I have a racing cam that looks like that. For almost ten years, it has been my best cam. It hasn't gotten worse so I just just say there's less parasitic drag since there's less surface area. Hah! Greg
  24. If you feel the effect at an autocross at those speeds, I'd imagine it would have to be way up in the air, huh? I'm looking for a rear deck spoiler to run on my vintage car that the sanctioning body is going to group me with all these factory built Porsche RSR's. The vintage guys don't like Daatsun winning too much. I have seen a sort of overgrown BRE type spoiler that looks like it might work. At one point in SCCA E Production, the allowed us to use the BRE spoiler for one single race before that can of worms went viral. The RX7 guys had all kinds of spoilers their cars "came" with, so SCCA canned that rule.
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