240hoke

hey i say some crooked head studs on ebay the other day

Hey guys thanks for the replies, i jsut wrote up a reply a little while ago but for some reason it didnt post it. Anyway looks like the l28 and the 7m/1jz have got it right now. I need to get to doing some research. I think the 1jz motorsets are going for 1900 or less. So that a good option the 2k-2.4k for the rb25 was really gonna break me. I would absolutly love to go 2jz but they are just as much if not more then the rb26 sooo definitly outta my price range. I am looking to start with 450 RWHP, And i know this is possibe on a l28. I have the setup to do it i just need forged pistons and larger injectors. I like the l28 but i wouldnt say its too reliable at that power output, and it definitly isnt as reliable as the other motors listed. Also the l28 is so popular I would kinda like to do something not many have done. Anyway.. keep shooting out opinions and any info especially on the supra motors, im like to know as much as i can before i make my choice. Sparks -- i havent had any trouble with sds and i like the system, but im ready to move on to something with more features, especially datalogging. When i got SDS i didnt have a laptop and now that im heading off to college this fall ill be getting a laptop which i can use to programming nad datalogging. Microtech looks like a cheap new system with lots of nice features so im leaning that way regaurdless of what engine i use. p.s. i sold my streetbike to do a more ambitious engine build so long love the Z !

Hey everybody, The time has come when I need ot start deciding what motor is going in my car and start putting everything together. Supension work is done for hte most part as is my chassis work, I should be finishing body work within a month. Anyway, my goal for the car is 450hp, and I want to do this with a straight six. Here are my options that I like: Built L28 - (same motor I had in my 260 but with forged internals and a gt35/40 turbo) + microtech engine managment + larger injectors + tons of boost RB25det - microtech engine managment + larger turbo + injectors 7mgte - Dont know much about this motor but I have seen a couple swaps on this board and loved them, kudos to clifton. 1jzgtte - Dont know much about this motor either but looks like another nice option. Lemme know what you guys think, all motors would basically cost the same so its all about: reliablity, and overall power potential Heres my website: http://www.geocities.com/projectzt

Hey guys, I've been rebuilding my 1971 240z, and im getting to the point where I need to start looking at either building my l28 or moving on to something better.... like a rb! i could build my l28 for 450 hp right now with just injectors and pistons but I'd like to move to something a bit more advanced. I already have the suspension/brakes/chassis/fuel undercontrol. Currently Im running GC coilovers, illumina struts, adjustable LCA's and t/c rods, suspension techniqes sways, subframe connectors, 8pt rollcage, corvette c4 disc brakes, jazz fuel cell, Walboro pump, yada yada yada. Sooooo before anybody tells me i need to upgrade my car before i drop in a rb there ya go. From what I can tell the parts needed for the rb25 swap are: - motors mounts (availible from austrailia ~ 115US) - rear sump oil pan, and rear oil pickup tube( both availible from nissan) - driveshaft and tranny mount must be fabbed. - Possiblilty of needing to use a greddy style intake manifold I already have SDS EM4-6f I was running on my l28. So heres my delimma: I am trying to do this swap on a semi budget, i already have everythign else taken care of on the car and I do all my own work, soo im trying to get this done in the 3K range. Most places around me dont sell just engines, you must buy the whole clip. Im in NC do you guys know of a place I could find one of these motors? Also what kind of power figures can I expect with this motor, for just tuning and turning the boost to ~1.1 bar? Okay While Im at it another question -- Whats the redline of these motors, I know stock its 7K, but msot people are turning them to 8K am I correct or does this require some headwork? If I can find a motor for a good price. i hope to us this thread to document my progress wit hthe motor since here isnt much availible.... CHeers, http://www.geocities.com/projectzt

Im curious to know more about this, any real world situations that have come up. The reason being is that i recently powdercoated my billit hubs and corvette calipers myself using the eastwood system. After reding this thread I'm alittle worried and curious abuot what I should do. -Austin

I would like to see the use of bigger tubing, and that weld in the middle I wouldnt trust. I think another important thing is to have a seal between the radiator and the hood, to force all the air through the radiator. This would mean you need a bar up top with some type of seal on it. I thought about doign the same thing you are doing but decided against it, i think the s30 is simpler though. My idea would be to reinforce the top area nd put it there. But ive never messsed wit ha 280zx. Good luck, hope to see how it turns out -Austin

question, are most people running bumpstops on sectioned struts with stiff springs and struts? I left mine off but its easy to pop some in if need be. Oh and to add to this, my 260 was lowered a little over 2 inches and i was running tokico blues with ~200lb/in lowering springs. My front bumstops were absolutly shreaded, actually the ends were broken off and forced inside the base. Rear was fine, though. -Austin

There is no tolerance period, the clevis was hammered on to the hockey puck, there wasnt enought clearence for the powdercoat in the area, it came off. I do see you point and it is a valid one, but with the right pieces there is no play. Put it this way the stock rubber bushing at the LCA and the t/c rod would have much more deflection the way you are talking about then this setup. I guess we wont know for sure till i get out on the track....

Well according to basic laws of geometry....if you have a triangle and all sides are a fixed length, the only way for the assymbly to move back(have the angles change) would be to have a side change length, so to tweak the mount the LCA would have to bend. just my 2 cents somebody correct me if im wrong

I got the "u-mount" from chassis shop.com and all the other pieces i aquired locally at several race shops in the area, but should be availible on the internet. I found the internet actually seems more expensive in this area, plus you have shipping ot deal with I bent my t/c rod in my wreck over 90 degrees in my 260, the wheel came up and hit the inner fender! I dont really inderstand what youre saying about the umount snapping, This is the same design as the arizona z car setup and they have been racing on those for years..... i think if theres a force thats gonna bend your t/c rods 90 degrees youve got alot more to worry about... Id be willing to be that my t/c design is much stronger then the stock rod. But we will see, perhaps some of the engineering guys and suspension people could chime in the hole is a little larger then 5/8, this shouldnt come into play though i ahve it centered wit ha large washer and the only force there, is pushing back on the mount. -Austin

OKay t/c rods done. i just finished powdercoating them and bolting them up today. Hope yall enjoy parts i used: - (2) 5/8" clevis (LH) - ~$6ea - (2) 5/8" Heim Joint (RH) - ~$8ea - (2) LH jam nuts - ~ $1 ea - (2) RH jam nuts - ~ $1ea - (2) 9" steel tubing sections with the ends swaged and oppisite 5/8" thread - ~ $13ea - (2) t/c rod mounts from chassis shop - ~ $11ea - 1" aluminum rods to cutt bushings from - 3/8" cold rolled steel plate - hardened grade 8 fastners - black gloss podwercoat -austin

Hey guys, I searched around locally here and found all the parts i need to complete my t/c rods. I found some 5/8" clevis's locally, they have a 3/8" pin hole put this will be drilled out to 1/2". Then ill be using a 5/8 heim on the other side. While i was in the same shop I notcied that had premade rod sectioned for suspension pieces. They come with a grip knurled into them and the ends are swaged down and tapped to 5/8" threads. LH on one end and RH on the other. They also has these in aluminum. The rods are sold in many different lengths starting at 6" and going till 15 i believe in one inch increments. Anyway i measured it up and found out a 9" bar would work perfectly. I choose steel as I am VERY weary of aluminum in the suspesion as it tends to fatique. heres what im talking about: i will be finshing it up tomarrow, turning some bushings for the u-mount, and then powdercoating the rods. Ill post some pictures up tomarrow. -austin

Good info. On the frame "u mount" The type I am using can be sorced from chassisshop.com This is the thing they are designed for. As you can see its the same type mount as used on the arizona zcar supension. At any rate I believe its plenty strong enough. I think I will be using a clevis on the other end. Ill let you'll know how it turns out. -Austin

ooo pretty, care to share details? btw -- thanks for hte help guys hopefully i will get this put together soon

Okay so any ideas where i can find the screw in clevis's, I didnt see any on the mention site maybe its just me. -Austin

THe excess movement was a problem I thought about too. I looked for the clevis end but didnt find any satifactory ones, I was looking on chassis shop.com, any other suggestions? I just didnt like the clevis idea because it looks weak especially if put in a bind, but im not an engineer im just trying to think through it And yes I am using a mig in the photos but just for tacking, I am having a friend TIG them just as I did the LCA's thanks for the comments guys -Austin

Hey, I jsut got done mocking up my t/c rods. I am using 1/2" qa1 heim joints opposite thread and chromoly tubing (.065 wall thickness i think) Anywa I have it mocked up and wanted to share it with you guys before I weld it up in case there is some problem ya'll forsee. Please lemme know what you think Oh I also plan on boxing in the tabs for more strenght -Austin

Im running a custom brake setup, and with the ends left on there they will just barely scrape the rotor at certain points in the suspension travel, so i had to cut them off. I didnt see that this area added any (or at least very little) strength to the arm. Im not sure why others have cut them off, but this would be my guess too.

Hey guys, thanks for the comments. Thats a good idea on using a piece of tubing that you can tap threads right into that would have saved me a good bit of time and money. Ill keep that in mind if i have to make another set. I need to look up what type of tubing I used. And yes they aren't on car adjustable. However its as simple as can be to take to bolt out that holds it on so It shouldnt be too hard to make adjustments. Anyway I getting excited about the car, im definitly ready to start reassembling, but ive got a little wayz to go yet, okay a long way lol. -Austin

Hey guys, Heres a picture of my adjustable control arm. I made them yesterday. Actually turned out alot easier then I expected and am happy with the turn-out. I have about 50 bucks in them. Lemme know what yall think. For lots more pictures and a write-up of the fab go to my website here: http://www.geocities.com/projectzt/LCA