240hoke

i ran 16psi just fine with my t3 and stock motor. I was running sds with an NPR and 370 cc injectors

if that your car in the picture then its perfectly legal here, looks like about 35%. On the roll cage thing, the sheetmetal can flex and also it disperses the force over a larger area where when you hit a tube all the force is gonna be pin pointed on one part of your skull... not good. Heres what i got pulled over for. Picture of the car is old, ive done some suspension work since then. This will be sure to hide your cage. -Austin

Thanks for the tips guys. Ive bookmarked everything I decided to just go with mild steel while i get everything worked out and on down the road to go with aluminum. Time is of importance right now, i can mig in my garage so i can work faster. I bought all the bends for my i/c pipes and DP from Jegs's, they have free 1-2 day shipping so i couldnt pass it up. Silicon connectors from ATPturbo with t-bolts. I think the total for everything including shipping was around 220 bucks. So im happy. Im going to Powdercoat the pipes wrinkle black or paint them body color. -Austin

Tinting issue is different for each state. Here in NC windows in CARS can be tinted up to 35% all the way around, thats the max for any window on the car. ON trucks and SUV's the rear windows can be whatever you want and the front two can be 35%. How this makes sense I have no idea, more people could be hiding in the back of an SUV with guns then in a car. Oh well, cops... But i have expirence, i tinted my BMW 5% all the way around. And yeah the radar thing wont help. I got "pulled over" while filling up my car with gas. I was soooo pissed off. I didnt have any trouble with it in charlotte/davidson/huntersville but the first day i moved to mooresville this tint nazi gave me a ticket. The reason I say tint nazi is because it is this lady's sole mission, she has given everyone i know with tint a ticket and is known at the tint places. But alas cant blame them and nobody really needs tint..... I rock hte 100% now. But that kinda off topic, cage it! I went with a half cage for the street, i think its a smart thing to keep bars away from your head when your not wearing a helmet.

Okay here is what im dealing with, the stuff is jsut kinda mocked up i just have top mounts on it and old hood hinges. The bottom with be brought in against he x-member about 1/4" more inches so it pulls it off the hood springs. And before i get flamed for having a huge intercooler, yes I know its big and will give me an extra .5 psi pressuredrop. BUt i like it like that PLus gotta have some room to grow you know to 1200hp I have plenty of room up top to redirect the air to the radiator, Im just worried that the air going over the top is going to disturb the air going through the i.c perhaps i could make a baffle all thh way to the radiator, but then it would only be cooling the top half if it and would cut into fan room. -Austin

I dunno if this is similare to what your expiriencing, but I ported out my wastegate hole to use it with 1.25" puck. I ported out the wg hole from 7/8" to 1 1 1/8". Once this was done I could only boost to about 8psi, it would just blow the wastegate right open. I had to add a spring like you mentioned to the wg actuator. That being said I hat internal wastegates and i want to go external. Maybe one of those things will fall from the sky. Oh I also use mine with a greddy profec B specII -Austin

ebay never ceases to amaze me. I completely forgot to look there. There is tons of stuff! Thanks for the tip. Atp turbo has some good stuff to especially as far as little tid bits for turbos like flanges and the like.

Thanks scottie thats what ive done for my last two installs. I remeber your car exactly, it was my dream and i modeled my 260's powerplant after what you had done. Looks like I may end up doing the pipes like that again. It will defintly save me some money i can get it done quick too, maybe even paint it to color of the car! that might look trick. mmm Semms like ther would be more of a market for aluminum bends - after all aluminum is lighter and cheaper then steel. -Austin

have either of you looked at burns prices. I mean they have some awesome stuff but hell they are a Huge rip off... maybe if money wasnt an object. 83 dollars for a 2.75 u-bend better get ready to bend over on that one. I am thinking about doing the pie sliced stainless pipes liek alot of the jap cars have. It will be cheap and I can do it myself since i have acess to a tig welder now. Still need two 90 deg 2.75" aluminum tubes. I couldnt find it on jcwhitney, only stainless and aluminized steel. I dunno maybe im an idiot.

I was riding down the interstate in Kentucky driving my brothers 2000 BMW 323ci. Middle of the day. I was hepling him move across the country so we were jsut crusing at about 75. I got in the fast lane to pass a tractor trailor truck. Right as I got to the front of the trailor a deer ran out in front of the truck, the truck tossed it out in front of me I slammed on the brakes but had no where to go being beside the truck ran over the thing cmpletely, took the fron bumper off pushed hte radiator into hte engine broke all the pully's off. Not fun. Had to get hte car towed 500 miles to Kansas and it took them almost amonth to fix it..... -Austin

Im tring to find a place to get mandrel bent aluminum tubing in 2.75 and 2.5" wondering what places yall recommend. Finding this stuff seems to be a quite a challenge, everybody is making i/c pipes out of steel. -Austin

also wanted to add, have you driven the car at all or rolled it around or pushed on it? What im getting at is somtimes the whole suspension needs to drop back down after its been jacked up. But i would assume this has already been done, just stabbing around here.

I think there is more required here then just "settling" hate to bust your bubble but if those springs settle 2" i would throw them in the dumpster. Looks like you maybe have the wrong springs, at first glance I would have said exactly what mike said might have the fronts and rear mixed up, but since youve already checked that.... have you checked the part number on them? -Austin car looks good btw

okay so it sounds like i need to seal off the top. i have the run the i.c where it is due to space restrictions and how i need to run the pipes (which is already a challenge). So heres my plan -- the bottom against the intercooler and spoiler will be sealed with a piece of sheetmetal preventing any air from escaping undernieth along with a from spliter (yes my car will be low enough) and then on top of the intercooler ill seall it up to the hood with some sheetmetal and rubber, then perhaps something to block off the space on the sides between the two units and run a set of fans inside ther for when it gets hot. This in efect will force all the air then comes through my intercooler through the radiator too. Anyway ill tkae some pictures tonight of how the i/c is mounted for some more input.

intercooler is 24x12x4" and the hood is unvented. This car is going to see the track ALOT hopefully. I think my idea right now is to try and seal off hte front end and direct all the air through the intercooler and radiator treating them as one unit, maybe a pusher fan in between the two? Open to suggestions, anybody have any exprieince with this? -Austin

Hey guys, Ive mounted up my intercooler and i mounted it so hat it is flush with the airdam to prevent air from going under the car. This leaves some room up top for the air to bypass the intercooler and travel into the engine compartment. What Im curious about is whether it would be better to seal the top and force all the air to travel through the intercooler or to leave it so the radiator gets more airflow. Right now I'm thinking it would be best sealed off because the air coming up top might mess with the air coming through the i/c. Anyway here is an incredible crude picture but you get the idea perhaps ill take a real picture today lol

Beautiful work, I love the color. Nice tag too btw.

I use straight GM Synocromesh in my nissan 5spd. Awesome stuff.

Ive heard of throwing them in the oven as well, alot of honda guys do that to seperate the headlight housings so they can "black out" the inside. Just gotta be carefull not to let it get too hot. My friend ruined one of his headlights setting the oven too high go figure lol.

Hey guys, My tail lights like just about every body elses were really dark. Anyway I desided to clean them up and im really happy with the results. First of all just polishing the outside doesnt do it, soot fills up the inside of the tail lights and makes them look really dark. 1.) Carefully go around the lense with a screwdriver prying it up out of the plastic housing. Go very very slowly here, dont want to crack anything. A helper is a good idea. Once they are free clean up the gluee from teh lenses. 2.) Once the lenses are off you can really see the soot built up on the inside! I used 409 to clean the soot out. 3.) Polish up the lenses with a plastic restorer, I used 3M marine clear plastic restorer, You can get it at west marine or any boat store. 4.) Wash the lenses again to get all the polish off and let them dry 5.) Use a adhesive to glue the lenses back together. I chose to use a genral contractor adhesive (subfloor adhesive) jsut because I had it around and it bond pretty much anything. 6.) Arent they pretty?? This was the best housing, from teh passenger side, you can see the soot buildup here, not nearly as bad as teh drivers side. Here are the lenses all cleaned up and ready to be glued back into place. Here is a before and after picture. and another Hope this helps some people